Castelgandolfo - decisions?
Nov 10th, 2004, 02:23 PM
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Castelgandolfo - decisions?
We are planning a couple of weeks in Italy for next October - and have found an
apartment that may work for us in this area. Only 15 miles from Rome and less than half the cost & in a gorgeous area.
But I can't find out anything except that the Pope has a summer residence here - and I've done a LOT of searches. I have found absolutely nothing about the town itself - or restaurants, churches, markets..
We plan to visit Rome several times and also the little towns around like Frascati so we will get a weekly pass for the Lazio region.
We are hoping to find a festival or three during the fall too! I would think that the mushrooms and grapes would be prime.
Any information will be appreciated.
apartment that may work for us in this area. Only 15 miles from Rome and less than half the cost & in a gorgeous area.
But I can't find out anything except that the Pope has a summer residence here - and I've done a LOT of searches. I have found absolutely nothing about the town itself - or restaurants, churches, markets..
We plan to visit Rome several times and also the little towns around like Frascati so we will get a weekly pass for the Lazio region.
We are hoping to find a festival or three during the fall too! I would think that the mushrooms and grapes would be prime.
Any information will be appreciated.
Nov 10th, 2004, 03:37 PM
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The information about Castel Gandolfo on the Internet is indeed limited and, moreover, what there is seems to be in Italian only.
For what it's worth, one Web site listed 16 ristoranti, trattorie and pizzerie, so I don't think you'll find it hard to find a restaurant or two that you will like.
And although the population of Castel Gandolfo seems to be only around 8,000 (I meant to make a note of it but forgot), I am sure that most of the people there eat at home, so there are sure to be markets and/or grocery stores.
And I can't imagine an Italian town (particularly one where the Pope resides part-time) without a church or two.
My suggestion would be: Go for it!
For what it's worth, one Web site listed 16 ristoranti, trattorie and pizzerie, so I don't think you'll find it hard to find a restaurant or two that you will like.
And although the population of Castel Gandolfo seems to be only around 8,000 (I meant to make a note of it but forgot), I am sure that most of the people there eat at home, so there are sure to be markets and/or grocery stores.
And I can't imagine an Italian town (particularly one where the Pope resides part-time) without a church or two.
My suggestion would be: Go for it!
Nov 10th, 2004, 04:02 PM
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I lived in Genzano for 32 years of my life, and Genzano is about 3 miles from Castel Gandolfo.
The town is very small. Apart from the Pope's residence its main attraction is the lake which is down below (CG is perched on top of the hills around the lake). There is a main square with a tiny tiny church, some bars and shops on the square and some little shops along the main street (you will see, it is VERY narrow, even if it is the main street). You can reach Rome either by bus (COTRAL blue buses) or by local train whose station is a little below the town. Train is faster and more direct. The lake in summer is the main gathering point of locals that spend the week end at the lake. YOu can reach the lake on foot, it is a steep hike on the way back but doable, there are several restaurants around the lake, from the regular restaurant to the small "fraschetta" a few tables along the road near a booth selling ham, cheese, wine, porchetta (roasted pig) and bread). You can rent bikes to go around the lake, or you can walk.
Apart from that there is not much to see in Castel Gandolfo, it is really a small village. In the centre also there are some restaurants, but you can also take a bus and visit Frascati, Genzano, Ariccia, Albano, Nemi, Marino. These are the nearest towns.
If you need more information about CG don't hesitate to say what you need and I will be glad to help you.
The town is very small. Apart from the Pope's residence its main attraction is the lake which is down below (CG is perched on top of the hills around the lake). There is a main square with a tiny tiny church, some bars and shops on the square and some little shops along the main street (you will see, it is VERY narrow, even if it is the main street). You can reach Rome either by bus (COTRAL blue buses) or by local train whose station is a little below the town. Train is faster and more direct. The lake in summer is the main gathering point of locals that spend the week end at the lake. YOu can reach the lake on foot, it is a steep hike on the way back but doable, there are several restaurants around the lake, from the regular restaurant to the small "fraschetta" a few tables along the road near a booth selling ham, cheese, wine, porchetta (roasted pig) and bread). You can rent bikes to go around the lake, or you can walk.
Apart from that there is not much to see in Castel Gandolfo, it is really a small village. In the centre also there are some restaurants, but you can also take a bus and visit Frascati, Genzano, Ariccia, Albano, Nemi, Marino. These are the nearest towns.
If you need more information about CG don't hesitate to say what you need and I will be glad to help you.
Nov 11th, 2004, 03:50 AM
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Eloise,
Thanks for the reassurance and your right about the Italian web sites. Of course it's always good to know about the abundance of trattorie!
I did read somewhere (I can read some Italian - it's my speaking that's comical) that Bernini designed the church and I think the fountain in the main square.
Batuffolina,
Thank you for such a good description of the surroundings. I have an idea now. I do have some quick questions now (and many more to follow - be warned!)
About the train station - is it located half-way up the hill to where the main village is located? Is there a map on line of the town so I can spot our apartment?
Since we are coming in October - after the Pope returns to Rome - are the gardens still open at the Palace?
Since you lived in Genzano, is there anything in particular that you would recommend seeing?
Carol
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Thanks for the reassurance and your right about the Italian web sites. Of course it's always good to know about the abundance of trattorie!
I did read somewhere (I can read some Italian - it's my speaking that's comical) that Bernini designed the church and I think the fountain in the main square.
Batuffolina,
Thank you for such a good description of the surroundings. I have an idea now. I do have some quick questions now (and many more to follow - be warned!)
About the train station - is it located half-way up the hill to where the main village is located? Is there a map on line of the town so I can spot our apartment?
Since we are coming in October - after the Pope returns to Rome - are the gardens still open at the Palace?
Since you lived in Genzano, is there anything in particular that you would recommend seeing?
Carol
[email protected]
Nov 11th, 2004, 07:36 AM
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I did a research and all I could find is this map of CG, it is pretty simplified, I know, but I hope it gives you an idea of where the station is. If I find some better map I will send you the link.
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichel...tel%20Gandolfo
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichel...tel%20Gandolfo
Nov 11th, 2004, 07:41 AM
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Nov 11th, 2004, 09:49 PM
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Some suggestions about the area around CG, known as Castelli Romani. I must say that the month of october can be a good month to visit central Italy, Rome and the Castelli Romani. Why? because after the harvest of the grape in September, there is the so called SAGRA DEL VINO (Wine festival)in Marino as well as in other towns.
Here are some hints of what you can see in the area around CG:
ALBANO LAZIALE (the nearest village to CG) is not really that great IMO, the streets are always congested with cars, but there are lots of shops on the main street, so check it out if you want to do some shopping.
ARICCIA= remarkable is Palazzo Chigi which holds exhibitions and concerts throughout the year. Also, it has a beautiful park that could be visited. In this old palace they shot the interiors of the GATTOPARDO (the movie with Burt Lancaster and Claudia Cardinale) back in the 60ies. In front of this palazzo there is a beautiful church built according to a desing by Bernini.
GENZANO= (my town). Lively, lots of good shops, there is a wine retailer called Silvestri which is also a wine producer, situated on the main street, and pretty good restaurants in the centre of the town (one of my favourites is La Briciola in a little lane, and Monte Due Torri, a country house a bit outside the town, but very good traditional food). Remarkable is also a VERY good gelato made by STEFANUCCI: rice, yogurt, nutella, mars, soy, nuts, M&Ms, Bacio Perugina, tartufo, other than the traditional flavours. The central square has a fountain with the symbol of the Colonna family, one of the noble families that used to live there. From this central square there are 5 streets that radiate from the centre. One leads to the Duomo, the other one leads to PALAZZO SFORZA-CESARINI, an old mansion now restaured once belonging to the Sforza family, another noble family. From its gardens you can have a good view of Lake Nemi, which together with Lake Castel Gandolfo, represents the 2 volcanic lakes of this areas.
NEMI= tiny tiny village a few miles from Genzano, there is a bus that goes to Nemi during the day. The village is perched on the upper brim of Lake Nemi, its main street leads to a panoramic terrace from where you can have a good view of the Lake. Good restaurants in and around Nemi too, my favourite is actually outside Nemi, in another agri tourism known as IACCHELLI. Great food there, always full of people, but you need to have a car to go there.
Skip Velletri because IMO it has nothing worth to visit.
FRASCATI: lively town, connected directly to CG via Cotral bus. Worth of notice is Villa Aldobrandini an imposing mansion belonging to another noble family of the past. Good wine and good restaurants in Frascati.
MARINO= a little too congested for my tastes, always a mess to go around the town, but in october there is THE wine festival!!!! so check it out.
I hope to have given you some more info that can help you have an idea of what you can see and do in the Castelli Romani area!
Here are some hints of what you can see in the area around CG:
ALBANO LAZIALE (the nearest village to CG) is not really that great IMO, the streets are always congested with cars, but there are lots of shops on the main street, so check it out if you want to do some shopping.
ARICCIA= remarkable is Palazzo Chigi which holds exhibitions and concerts throughout the year. Also, it has a beautiful park that could be visited. In this old palace they shot the interiors of the GATTOPARDO (the movie with Burt Lancaster and Claudia Cardinale) back in the 60ies. In front of this palazzo there is a beautiful church built according to a desing by Bernini.
GENZANO= (my town). Lively, lots of good shops, there is a wine retailer called Silvestri which is also a wine producer, situated on the main street, and pretty good restaurants in the centre of the town (one of my favourites is La Briciola in a little lane, and Monte Due Torri, a country house a bit outside the town, but very good traditional food). Remarkable is also a VERY good gelato made by STEFANUCCI: rice, yogurt, nutella, mars, soy, nuts, M&Ms, Bacio Perugina, tartufo, other than the traditional flavours. The central square has a fountain with the symbol of the Colonna family, one of the noble families that used to live there. From this central square there are 5 streets that radiate from the centre. One leads to the Duomo, the other one leads to PALAZZO SFORZA-CESARINI, an old mansion now restaured once belonging to the Sforza family, another noble family. From its gardens you can have a good view of Lake Nemi, which together with Lake Castel Gandolfo, represents the 2 volcanic lakes of this areas.
NEMI= tiny tiny village a few miles from Genzano, there is a bus that goes to Nemi during the day. The village is perched on the upper brim of Lake Nemi, its main street leads to a panoramic terrace from where you can have a good view of the Lake. Good restaurants in and around Nemi too, my favourite is actually outside Nemi, in another agri tourism known as IACCHELLI. Great food there, always full of people, but you need to have a car to go there.
Skip Velletri because IMO it has nothing worth to visit.
FRASCATI: lively town, connected directly to CG via Cotral bus. Worth of notice is Villa Aldobrandini an imposing mansion belonging to another noble family of the past. Good wine and good restaurants in Frascati.
MARINO= a little too congested for my tastes, always a mess to go around the town, but in october there is THE wine festival!!!! so check it out.
I hope to have given you some more info that can help you have an idea of what you can see and do in the Castelli Romani area!
Nov 12th, 2004, 12:18 PM
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Dear Batuffolina,
Again I must offer my heart-felt gratitude for all the information you have provided me with about this area of Italy.
The only problem now is that I am ready to go right NOW! And our trip is not until October.
I will print out and carry with us all your suggestions. It is good to know where NOT to go as well as where TO go, so thank you for that information also.
Now I am waiting for some pictures of the apartment so that we will have an idea of the dwelling.
If you see me in one of these little towns in October, you will know me as I will have a big glass of wine in my hand and a big smile on my face!
Carol
Again I must offer my heart-felt gratitude for all the information you have provided me with about this area of Italy.
The only problem now is that I am ready to go right NOW! And our trip is not until October.
I will print out and carry with us all your suggestions. It is good to know where NOT to go as well as where TO go, so thank you for that information also.
Now I am waiting for some pictures of the apartment so that we will have an idea of the dwelling.
If you see me in one of these little towns in October, you will know me as I will have a big glass of wine in my hand and a big smile on my face!
Carol
Nov 12th, 2004, 04:22 PM
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Hi Carol
You're welcome! I don't know if you are planning to rent a car when you are there, but if I can give you an advice I would say DO NOT rent it! Why? In all these towns parking places are a real problem. In CG for example the streets are so narrow that you can hardly DRIVE. Albano as I said is always congested with cars, it is terrible in the afternoon between 4 and 8 pm when lots of locals meet or go shopping. Ok there are good shops in Albano (there is La Madia which sells houseware, there are a couple of herbalists one of which is called Ars Erbaria, which is near the main square, which sells great natural products if you like this sort of stuff, then there are dozens of fashion shops, plenty of choice for that). Also Genzano has good shops. If you like shoes you might want to try either Doc Company (which is near Stefanucci gelato place) or Cappellone (almost in front of Silvestri wine shop). There is also an herbalist on the main street, you can smell it from the distance. Then there is INTIMISSIMI selling beautiful underwear, and a good perfume shop. If you like typical jewels go to Via Italo Belardi (from the central square), the shop is on the left side of this street, beautiful and not too expensive jewels with amber, turquoise, onix, mother of pearl stones. Check out: on this same street there are a couple of good typical restaurants where to taste typical food.
If you want to taste good pizza on the go try DA SERGIO (always near Silvestri wine shop), several kinds of pizzas.
Also try FANTAGHIRO', CERVELLI and BATTISTINI for beautiful jewels.
Should you need other info on shops, don't hesitate, I am here to help ya!
You're welcome! I don't know if you are planning to rent a car when you are there, but if I can give you an advice I would say DO NOT rent it! Why? In all these towns parking places are a real problem. In CG for example the streets are so narrow that you can hardly DRIVE. Albano as I said is always congested with cars, it is terrible in the afternoon between 4 and 8 pm when lots of locals meet or go shopping. Ok there are good shops in Albano (there is La Madia which sells houseware, there are a couple of herbalists one of which is called Ars Erbaria, which is near the main square, which sells great natural products if you like this sort of stuff, then there are dozens of fashion shops, plenty of choice for that). Also Genzano has good shops. If you like shoes you might want to try either Doc Company (which is near Stefanucci gelato place) or Cappellone (almost in front of Silvestri wine shop). There is also an herbalist on the main street, you can smell it from the distance. Then there is INTIMISSIMI selling beautiful underwear, and a good perfume shop. If you like typical jewels go to Via Italo Belardi (from the central square), the shop is on the left side of this street, beautiful and not too expensive jewels with amber, turquoise, onix, mother of pearl stones. Check out: on this same street there are a couple of good typical restaurants where to taste typical food.
If you want to taste good pizza on the go try DA SERGIO (always near Silvestri wine shop), several kinds of pizzas.
Also try FANTAGHIRO', CERVELLI and BATTISTINI for beautiful jewels.
Should you need other info on shops, don't hesitate, I am here to help ya!
Nov 21st, 2004, 12:31 PM
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Please don't think that I am unappreciative of your very helpful notes on this area. My husband had surgery on Tuesday and I have been being Florence Nightingale (a nurse!) to him and making him lost of nourishing food and all that stuff. He is feeling better today and I am catching up.
The only question I can think of is:
Since we will be staying in Castel Gandolfo, do you have a recommendation for a place that we could have a meal? That we could walk to, hopefully? We will not have a car. I will be cooking in - but eating out probably once a day. We will be other places most of the time, but we will need to have a local when we are in town. And a nice place to have a glass of wine and sit and watch.
Any ideas?
Carol
The only question I can think of is:
Since we will be staying in Castel Gandolfo, do you have a recommendation for a place that we could have a meal? That we could walk to, hopefully? We will not have a car. I will be cooking in - but eating out probably once a day. We will be other places most of the time, but we will need to have a local when we are in town. And a nice place to have a glass of wine and sit and watch.
Any ideas?
Carol
Nov 21st, 2004, 02:00 PM
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Hi Carol,
Here are some restaurants that are situated in the very centre of Castel Gandolfo.
ANTICO RISTORANTE PAGANELLI (Via Gramsci). This restaurant is on the street that goes down the lake, but it is within walking distance from the town centre. Beautiful view on the lake, panoramic views.
RISTORANTE BUCCI (Via Zecchini 31) also this one has a beautiful view on the lake, and it is in the town centre too).
IL GROTTINO (Via dell'oratorio 2).
TAVERNA DEI CACCIATORI (Via Zecchini 1)
Here are some restaurants that are situated in the very centre of Castel Gandolfo.
ANTICO RISTORANTE PAGANELLI (Via Gramsci). This restaurant is on the street that goes down the lake, but it is within walking distance from the town centre. Beautiful view on the lake, panoramic views.
RISTORANTE BUCCI (Via Zecchini 31) also this one has a beautiful view on the lake, and it is in the town centre too).
IL GROTTINO (Via dell'oratorio 2).
TAVERNA DEI CACCIATORI (Via Zecchini 1)
Nov 28th, 2004, 06:28 AM
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Thanks for the restaurant suggestions.
And now for the groceries.Since we will have an apartment we will cook in some of the time. Is there a weekly market for produce or where will be the best places to shop? I'm hoping for a bakery, butcher shop, fresh produce etc and a place to buy wine.
I did look up the times for the Frascatti festival and much to my regret it is on the 2nd of June and we cannot arrive that early. I was looking forward to drinking white wine from the fountains. Of course I will be happy to drink the local wine even from a glass!
Thank you again.
And now for the groceries.Since we will have an apartment we will cook in some of the time. Is there a weekly market for produce or where will be the best places to shop? I'm hoping for a bakery, butcher shop, fresh produce etc and a place to buy wine.
I did look up the times for the Frascatti festival and much to my regret it is on the 2nd of June and we cannot arrive that early. I was looking forward to drinking white wine from the fountains. Of course I will be happy to drink the local wine even from a glass!
Thank you again.
Dec 1st, 2004, 08:25 PM
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Hi Carol,
Earlier I was trying to post a reply to your last messages but I couldn't do it. So I opened another thread whose title is FOR BRAHMAMA-CASTEL GANDOLFO INFO and where I gave you some info. TO retreive it more easily click on my name and you should find it. Here below I pasted the link to this new thread that I started, in the hope you might see it, hope it works...
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...LINA&fid=2
Earlier I was trying to post a reply to your last messages but I couldn't do it. So I opened another thread whose title is FOR BRAHMAMA-CASTEL GANDOLFO INFO and where I gave you some info. TO retreive it more easily click on my name and you should find it. Here below I pasted the link to this new thread that I started, in the hope you might see it, hope it works...
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...LINA&fid=2
Feb 13th, 2005, 10:41 AM
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Butuffolina and Eloise,
I wanted to get up to date on the Castel Gandolfo. We are now planning to visit both in May and in October.
I have had 2 great suggestions for retaurants besides the ones already listed from Butaffolina.. One from Grinsia is for Frascati and the other from my friend in Rome and it is for Castel Gondolfo. It is Pagnonelli - in a cave and they serve their own wine.
Do you think that is the same one that is already on the list (spelled a little differently!)
I can't find the other one, but I'll look it up and post it here.
I'm so excited to be going here at two times of the year - hopefully we can hit the harvest and the festival for the wine.
Carol
I wanted to get up to date on the Castel Gandolfo. We are now planning to visit both in May and in October.
I have had 2 great suggestions for retaurants besides the ones already listed from Butaffolina.. One from Grinsia is for Frascati and the other from my friend in Rome and it is for Castel Gondolfo. It is Pagnonelli - in a cave and they serve their own wine.
Do you think that is the same one that is already on the list (spelled a little differently!)
I can't find the other one, but I'll look it up and post it here.
I'm so excited to be going here at two times of the year - hopefully we can hit the harvest and the festival for the wine.
Carol
Feb 20th, 2005, 12:37 PM
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It's PAGANELLI, not Pagonelli. Have a look at this photo http://www.pagnanelli.it/cibo_cultura.htm
Feb 21st, 2005, 12:35 PM
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Hi!
I was wondering if you were still on here. We are going for sure in May, but don't have final plans for Oct. yet.
Yes, you are right. It's the same place. My friend must have spelled it wrong. It's really expensive - do you think it's worth it? It's his Bday and he's coming in from Rome so I want to take him somewhere where the food is excelent. We'll spend the day having lunch and then wander around Frascati. I think there's a market there on Sunday, am I right?
If you are in Frascati, why don't you join us for a glass of wine or two?
Brahmama
I was wondering if you were still on here. We are going for sure in May, but don't have final plans for Oct. yet.
Yes, you are right. It's the same place. My friend must have spelled it wrong. It's really expensive - do you think it's worth it? It's his Bday and he's coming in from Rome so I want to take him somewhere where the food is excelent. We'll spend the day having lunch and then wander around Frascati. I think there's a market there on Sunday, am I right?
If you are in Frascati, why don't you join us for a glass of wine or two?
Brahmama
Feb 26th, 2005, 04:38 PM
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The food at Paganelli is good, some of my friends say so too. Uhm... I am not sure there is a market in Frascati on Sunday....
Thank you for your invitation, but I a couple of years ago I moved from that area, followed my heart, got married...
I miss those places though. The only thing I don't miss is the traffic and constant congestion in Frascati, Albano and Genzano!
Thank you for your invitation, but I a couple of years ago I moved from that area, followed my heart, got married...
I miss those places though. The only thing I don't miss is the traffic and constant congestion in Frascati, Albano and Genzano!
Feb 27th, 2005, 05:34 AM
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Congratulations on your marriage! I wish you much happiness and as many children as you desire. Where are you living now?
I will listen to you and not rent a car - but just use the trains and buses - I dislike congestion too!
I will listen to you and not rent a car - but just use the trains and buses - I dislike congestion too!
