We haven't been to the Outer Banks since they got liquor by the drink. I remember a gorgeous sandswept place that had some nice little "ma and pa" seafood restaurants, family-owned hotels and minor development. Imagine that's all gone, paved over by chains and McMansions. So, where to stay that is well-managed, charming, oceanfront and a good location?

You are right about the McMansions...The Sanderling Inn in the Duck area might be what you are looking for. Nothing much else north of Kitty Hawk. We have a cottage in Corolla, so I'm not familiar with places south of Kitty Hawk--hopefully someone else can help you there.

Waves and Avon are good for the "road less traveled" type of place. Neither area is a developed as the Northern Outer Banks.

We stay in Southern Shores, but at least we're always there in October, so the crowds are WAY down. I leave on Friday - yippee!

Oh god. You are going to be bitterly disappointed. In my opinion they've pretty much wrecked the place.

Try the southern beaches - I agree with Waves, Avon etc,.

Some people say Top Sail beach is like the old OBX. I don't know.

It is NOT "all paved over" and there are plenty of "beach box" houses around.

You might try going down as far as Hatteras (Village) or even over to Ocracoke.

I love Ocracoke for its back alleys, where you get a sense of how things used to be. I thought it was interesting how a lot of the houses have their own, private, family graveyard across the alley from their house.

A funny story from one time when we were visiting Ocracoke was when we were standing in a gift shop and a sonic boom went off overhead (lots of military bases close by). It scared the absolute bejesus out of us, plus several things fell off the shelves, although none of them broke ("this time," as the store owner said).

We love Ocracoke--but if you rent a car for your trip, you might want four wheel drive so you can get out to the really cool beaches.