trip report-weekend at the Cape

Oct 12th, 2006, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 136
trip report-weekend at the Cape

Author: cherikm ([email protected])
Date: 10/12/2006, 01:24 pm
I really appreciated all the help I received from members of this board in planning our trip, and so, for those interested, here is my trip report.
Took the T from Logan to Braintree which worked very well. My daughter picked us up there and we were able to miss the Boston traffic and arrived at our B&B Friday afternoon. The Whalewalk Inn was great. Lovely people, lovely accommodations, we had a suite with a bedroom, bathroom, kitchen (completely equipped) living room with fireplace and a loft with two twin beds. As there is nothing to do at night off season this was perfect for us. The inn had a large supply of videos we used in the VCR. They also had menus from all the restaurants, maps, directions everywhere etc. Great breakfasts, and in the evening they put out a few nibbles and you could bring your beverage of choice and socialize. Loved the location. Had dinner the first night at Abba, which I have to say, despite the rave reviews, was very disappointing. I am definitely a foodie, and living in Chicago, have access to a lot of great restaurants. The service at Abba was horrible. Rude, inattentive, totally unacceptable. The food was only fair. The menu totally misleading on many items.
Saturday we stopped at the Natl Seashore visitors center, which is a great place to pick up maps, get suggestions on hiking trails, interesting exhibits, clean bathrooms. On to Provincetown, walked around awhile, shops all start looking the same, only bathrooms available to the public are in the library (but not on Sunday). Lunch at the Lobster Pot, enjoyed the lobster roll. Walked up to the monument/museum (Pilgrim or Plymouth, can't remember now) which was very interesting and a beautiful view up all those stairs. Drove back to our inn for massages and some hot tub time. Dinner at Atlantic Grill, very good, best clams, also loved their baked chocolate pudding for dessert.. Stopped at Chocolate Sparrow but found better chocolate the next day in Chatham at their chocolate store. Sunday we hiked the Fort Hill trail, then drove to Marconi Beach and walked for miles looking at the dunes and the water, magnificent. Down to Orleans for ice cream at Emack and Bollios, good ice cream, but again, no public restrooms, can't believe they get away with not providing this service to their customers. Drove to Chatham and watched them unload fish from the boats, then walked down Main street in all the little shops, charming. Dinner in Wellfleet after a walk on their beach at the Naked Oyster, very good, loved the lobster dish. Monday morning walked to Rockland harbor and then back to Boston. Had a great time, but can't imagine what the Cape must be like in the summer. Our host said Easham (where we stayed) has a full time population of 3,000 and a summer population of 50,000. No, that's not a misprint. There were plenty of people around, but no traffic problems, parking problems etc.
I'd be glad to try and help with more info for anyone with questions. This board is great!

cherikm is offline  
Oct 12th, 2006, 09:51 AM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 949

Thanks for posting this report. So glad you had a good time and enjoyed The Whalewalk Inn. You really made the most of your stay on the Cape and saw many of our family favorites.

Sorry you were disappointed with Abba. We finally went there this summer and I felt the same way. Seemed a bit pretentious (especially for Cape Cod) and somewhat cramped. I enjoyed my food but will admit that I am not a real foodie. Wouldn't go back quickly.

For clarity, it is the Pilgrim Monument in Ptown. And Rock Harbor is probably where you went on Monday--my husband's favorite harbor (since he LOVES fishing).

The Cape does get crowded during the summer (worst is in August, IMHO) but is fine as long as you have patience. Making a left turn is always a killer!
ccrosner is offline  
Oct 12th, 2006, 10:08 AM
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Cheri, thanks for posting back. It sounds like you made the most of your time. You certainly hit the weather jackpot! As far as the Eastham population in the summer it's closer to 20,000 although it can feel like 50! I would hate to have the summer visitors scared away!
gomiki is offline  
Oct 12th, 2006, 10:10 AM
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 895
Thanks for the trip report,cherikem. Sorry you didn't enjoy Abba. Though have not been there since spring, the food, service and ambiance were great at that time.

Oh- it's the Wicked Oyster in Wellfleet. And it is good, isn't it! Too bad you aren't here for this weekend, as Wellfleet has its Oyster Fest, which is much fun.
capecodshanty is offline  
Oct 13th, 2006, 06:15 AM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 426
I completely agree about Abba....way overrated and very expensive IMO. Now about the Provicetown restrooms..there are very clean, well kept public restrooms adjacent to the MacMillan warf parking area, just around the corner, on the water, from the Chamber of Commerce. The reason there are not more places offering this facility to the public is that most of the outer cape does not have public water or sewer systems. That means that each building has its own well, must pump its own water and dispose of the waste. In Provincetown and downtown Wellfleet that is a real proble when the summer population swells. The public restrooms in Provincetown use salt water in their toilets and many places in Eastham and Wellfleet in the heavily visited places, serve bottled water since their well-water is questionable. With no sewer systems all of the affluent goes into private septic tanks which need to be pumped expense that not many private owners want to bear for strangers. It is clear that you are a "city" person who takes much of this type of infrastructure for granted. You just pay your water and sewer bill and forget about it. Don't be too hard on the Cape Codders....they do quite well IMO housing and entertaining all the folks in the summer.
Oh one more thing, I went on line and got the stats for Eastham and it seems tht your inn keeper really messed up the winter population stats. Here they are-direct from the Town of Eastham web site
Total Area: 27.26 sq. miles Land Area: 13.99 sq. miles
Population: 5,646 Density: 403 per sq. mile

Sounds like you had a nice time at the Whalewalk but I am surprised that you didn't find much to do at night. There is great theater in Wellfleet at the WHAT and Academy of Performing Arts in Orleans, both just a stone's throw from Eastham. And of course, Provincetown has lots of shows, art exhibits etc. for night-time strollers. How did you like the Fort Hill trail and overlook? Did you have a chance to take part in any of the ranger lead activities? And those beaches really are great aren't they!!!
yellowbyrd is offline  
Oct 13th, 2006, 04:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 136
The Fort Hill trail was just beautiful, and loved Marconi Beach. Could have kept walking forever on it. As far as the bathroom situation, I can understand why places might not allow you to use their washrooms if you haven't bought anything, but I had just shelled out close to twenty dollars for mochachinos for the three of us and felt we should have been allowed to use their facilities.
cherikm is offline  
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