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Trip report on Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef...Just got back.

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Trip report on Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef...Just got back.

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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 06:16 PM
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Trip report on Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef...Just got back.

Part 1

Our plane left Burbank airport in Los Angles at 8:00 AM and by 9:45 we were driving out of the parking lot with our rental car and on our way to Hoover Dam.
For those who have never been to this area, here?s a heads up. Bring a very good moisturizer for face and body and Vaseline with some q-tips for the inside of your nose. This area is SO dry?only 10% humidity. Also stop at a market and pick up a six-pack of water to leave in your trunk.
Our first stop was Hoover Dam. We took the guided tour ($10) which takes you down in an elevator to the bottom of the dam and tells how the dam was built. We found it very interesting and would recommended it. We were there for about 2 hours and then left for St. George where we stayed our first night, by way of the Valley of Fire. Very pretty area and more interested than highway 15.
We didn?t have a reservation and ended up at the Budget inn ($59.) and were on the rode to Zion by 9:00 the next morning.
There was no one on the road with us to Zion and when we reached the park we headed to the visitors center. The ranger suggested that we hike the River walk and Weeping Rock Trail before meeting back at visitors center to take the rangers tram tour. We hiked the River walk and part of the narrows (took off our shoes and just waded up the river for a little ways to get a taste of what it was like) and thought Weeping Rock was very cool. They say that the water running off this mountain has been leeching through the limestone for 4000 years.
The ranger shuttle tour was very interesting with lots of information about the area. The ranger showed us an Anastazi granary that was up on the side of the cliff which you never would have seen had he not pointed it out.
We checked into our cabin at the lodge at about 5:00. The cabins are cute and the location is great inside the park but they are looking a little tired. They could use some new bedspreads and some attention to detail, but again, the location is great. I loved sitting out on the grassy area in front of the lodge under the huge cotton wood tree.
We had dinner at the Bit and Spur which serves Mexican and American food. Food was OK.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 06:18 PM
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Part 2

We got up at 7:00 AM to see how far we would could hike up Angels Landing , which wasn?t very far for my husband. He doesn?t like heights and turned back before Walters Wiggles. We had hooked up with another couple, Joyce and Jerry on the way up the trail so I continued on with them to Scout?s landing. At that point we stood around watching the people make there way up the steepest part of the trail. It looks VERY intimidating from that viewpoint.
I heard once that you never regret the things that you do, only the things that you don?t do, SO, up I went along with Jerry who decided to try it with me and see how far we got. Joyce stayed behind with our packs. Once we started we kept on going and made it to the top and I must say that it really is more intimidating to look at then actually hike. One of the rangers told me that no one has been injured on that particular trail because everyone concentrates on every placed foot and handhold. I just kept looking at my feet and reaching for the chain. There is a guys name itched into the stone at the top. Not sure if this was a casualty of Angels or just a way to remember him.
The view from the top is spectacular?1500 ft. above the canyon floor. Be sure and do this hike in the early morning if you are there in the warmer weather as it is totally exposed to the afternoon sun.
It took us 4 ? hours for the hike, up and back, and when I got back to the cabin, my husband was raring to go. I was exhausted, but regrouped and we did another short hike to the top of Canyon Overlook which was gorgeous and then to the lower and middle Emerald Pools which was one of my favorite places. The lower Emerald Pool is so dramatic with the stained striped rocks. Be sure and go around to the high side of the
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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 06:19 PM
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Part 3
We had a great pepperoni and jalapeno pizza for dinner at Zion Pizza and Noodle. YUM! They have good food there.
We left for Bryce the next morning and arrived around 12:30 with lots of stops in between Zion and Bryce to admire the scenery. When we got there we immediately took the horseback ride down to the bottom of the canyon. You sign up for this at the lodge and the price was $30. for 2 hours. Unless you ride a lot, 2 hours is more than enough. It?s a great ride and the wrangler who went with us was funny and informative. He also took the time to stop and take photos of us on our horses and point out photo opportunities for us to use our own cameras. They also have another cowboy on the trail that takes an 8 x 10 of everyone and their horse and you can buy them at the end of the ride for $5. with the negative. I would recommend this ride especially if you aren?t a strong hiker and aren?t able to get down into the canyon to experience the hoodoos up close.
We ate at a place called The Bryce Canyon Pines that is out by the airport. Really good food and the best blueberry banana pie that you?ll ever eat. It was recommended by one of the cowboys that lives in Tropic who said it?s where the locals eat. Good place! We stayed at the cabins again and these are really great looking from the outside. Lots of character but again the inside is a little tired. We noticed that our room had a set mouse-trap and the little guy raided our packs in the middle of the night for granola bars and peanuts.
We got up the next morning at 7:15 to see the sunrise and then had the breakfast buffet at the lodge ($7.95.) The food at both of the lodges was just OK but as you Fodorites warned me when I was planning this trip, you don?t go to this area for the food.
We saw a great ranger program that night called ?Exit Light, Enter Night?. A meteorology slide show and presentation, which was fabulous. We discovered that Bryce has one of the blackest skies in the lower 48 states because there is no ?light pollution?. After the slide show we all met out at Bryce Canyon point to view the skies through high-powered telescopes and the Ranger pointed out the constellations. I know nothing about meteorology and found this evening to be a highlight of our trip. The Milky Way was so visible it looked like you could reach out and touch it and we saw several comets zipping across the sky. It was really amazing.



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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 06:20 PM
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Part 4
The next day we drove out to Rainbow Point and then stopped at all the vistas on the way back. My favorite was upper Inspiration Point. Absolutely don?t miss this incredible view. It?s over 180% of jaw dropping scenery.
We had dinner at Ruby?s buffet that night and found the food to be really good. If you eat before 5 PM it?s $9.99.
Left Bryce the next morning headed for Capitol Reef. What an amazing drive this was!!!!
We were a little late for the Aspens in full fall color but still caught a glimpse of what it must have been like 3 weeks ago. New England couldn?t rival this.
We stopped at the Anastazi Indian museum for a brief visit and now we want to visit Mesa Verde.
It took us about 4 hours to drive to Capital Reef and when we got there we checked into the ?Lodge at Red River Ranch? which is about 10 minutes west of Torrey. This place is so beautiful. It sits on 2000 acres at the base of huge red cliffs and has a river running through the back of the property. The lodge itself is log construction with a magnificent great room with soaring ceilings decorated like an old hunting lodge with overstuffed leather couches & chairs, antiques, Navajo rugs and of course a moose head or two. They serve wonderful food and offer fly-fishing and skeet shooting. The vibe here is so mellow and comfy. All the rooms have a wood-burning fireplaces and the attention to detail here is incredible. Spotlessly maintained also.
After we checked in we headed for the visitors center and picked up some maps and found out what we wanted to do. There?s a scenic drive that you can take in Capital reef that is really fun. There are roads into the canyons that you can drive back into for miles and really see the canyon walls up close. Again, a wonderful opportunity for people who don?t have the ability to get far on foot. After we did that we went back to the lodge for a hot bath and a little reading before our dinner of fresh trout. The Cranberry bread pudding with butter sauce for dessert was SO good.

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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 06:21 PM
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Part 5

The next day we hiked with the Ranger to Hickman Bridge, a huge natural bridge and learned the story that the layers of rock in the area told.
One thing that I wanted to say about Bryce is that the nearest place to get food is 10 miles out of the park. Be sure and pack a lunch otherwise you?ll have to break up your day to leave the park and come back.
We also visited the petroglyphs that day. It amazes me that these drawings are still intact after all these years.
We had burgers at the Rimrock restaurant for dinner and listened to some live music. Two young ladies from the area playing guitar and fiddle.
The next day we left for Zion and our stayed our last night at the Desert Pearl. Really nice place. We loved our room by the river but if you stay there keep in mind that the soundproofing isn?t that great. We had a lot of noise from the people above us. Nice hotel though with really comfortable beds.
Left for Las Vegas for our 4:05 flight home.

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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 07:00 PM
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Thanks for the great trip report, jaspertl. Brings back many special memories. Bryce and Zion (and the Desert Pearl Inn!) are such treasures.

"I heard once that you never regret the things that you do, only the things that you don't do" -- i totally agree! You sound like me - it IS more intimidating to look at the canyon then actually hike it! But aren't you thrilled you did it?

And now i'm salivating for some for the great pasta at The Noodle!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 07:19 PM
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Thanks for a great trip report! You are certainly right about needing water and vaseline! I can't belive how chapped my lips were after just the first couple of days. We got back on the 12th and my lips are just about back to normal now! We live in South Florida where the humidity is always about 80% to 100%. I guess your body just tends to adjust to where you live! Glad you had a great trip.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 07:52 PM
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Ellen...Yes, I really do feel a sense of accomplishment...the same that I felt when I ran my first, and only, marathon.

At some points the trail (that's a stretch) was only 18 inches wide with 1200 ft. drop offs on both sides.

At least that's what they tell me, I never looked down! lol
I would have never done it without the chains to hold on to though.

The tour buses looked like little paper clips from up there...they kept getting smaller and smaller and smaller.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2003, 08:31 PM
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Great Report!

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Old Oct 23rd, 2003, 05:04 AM
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ttt
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