merrin

I've been considering a move to NYC for a long time and I'm determined to do so within a year. After my visit to London I know I'm definately a big-city person not a suburban type at all (like where I live now).

Anyway, I've been checking out areas in and around Manhattan but cant seem to get any solid info on the net. Everything I read sounds like what you'd find in an encyclopedia. I want the real goods. For those of you who live there or have lived there, please tell me about the different neighborhoods. Those of particular interest are UES, Chelsea, Park Slope, Carroll Gardens, The Village. Other ares would be fine too.
Merrin

wanda

Upper East Side - nice and conventional. Monied neighborhood. Ppl are nice but generally a bit uptight. Not a place for young, single people to party in the area. But, nice area. Decent shopping. EXPENSIVE
Chelsea - more of a cool area. Good shopping. More of a young, cool, club (dont let that deter you) area. Dont move here if the sight of openly gay men bother you.
Park Slope - Bklyn has better apartments for the same rent. I like Bk a lot. It has its own "culture" with its own cool bars and restaurants. Theres no NEED to live in Manhattan anymore. (But, I live in MAnhattan and love it)
The Village - expensive. Ultra hip - ultra cool. Dont feel the need to live here - but, you must visit often. NYU area, artsy area.
Have no clue about Carroll Gardens. Dont even know where that is.

nytraveler

You don;t mention anything about budget - which could well be a conrolling factor - dependng on where you're coming from - and if you plan on renting or buying (hopefully with a lot of equity to put into an apartment).

One area you didn;t mention is the upper west side. Very convenient, VERY diverse - in every sense - not so busy - or so uptight as the east side - more of a casual and traditionally "artsy" area (many more people in publishing, education, music, writing/media etc) vs the upper east side (which has a lot more folks in banking, the market/other finance - and much of which is old money).

If you go to the NYTimes real estate section there are several things that can help.

The first is a series of profiles of dozens of neighborhoods in and around the city - including info on recent rentals and sales.

The other is a multi-factorial search base - for rentals or sales - of all areas of the city and suburbs - including detailed listings and usualy floorplans - which can give you a good idea of a largre part of the real estate market. (When you are ready to rent/buy there are other less expensive options - such as Craigs list - and there are other living options - like half of a two family house in the middle/out suburbs - but it doesn;t sound like that's what you're looking for.)

Have you located a job yet? Where you will be working can be a strong determinant of where you should live - because it can add considerably - 30 minutes or more - to your commute.

Ryan

I used to be involved in recruiting at a former employer and the question of "where should I live" often came up. This is a generalization but my view is it depends on the type of person you are.

If you are the corporate type, the Upper East Side might be more appealing.

If you're more the artsy type, a bohemian, if you will, then downtown is probably more your style.

If you're somewhere in between, the Upper West Side.

This is a generalization and I'm sure you find people of all sorts in each part of town.

The most important issue is budget. But, in terms of the places you like to go and things you like to do, some areas are geared more for the types that generally live there.

lisettemac

It's interesting that Wanda described the UES as "expensive." An article in the NYTimes Real Estate section last Sunday (I think) described the UES as the best value for apartments -- rentals and purchases -- today. The price of real estate hasn't increased in the way that other neighborhoods have. East of Lexington Ave there are just scads and scads of rental apartments of all sizes, shapes and budgets. Other things I like about the UES: proximity to Central Park, lots of good restaurants, convenient to shopping, near museums.

I've also lived on the UWS. It is a lovely neighborhood, with lots of families, dogs, kids. It has more subway service than the East Side (although I don't know that I'd describe it as more reliable), also has some great restaurants (but not as many as the East Side), fewer doorman buildings -- but more brownstone buildings and some cultural institutions.

mclaurie

Agree with lisettemac on UES. Lots of smaller apts that ARE affordable. And there are plenty of party places for the younger set. In fact many of the buildings are more like dorms.

Chelsea has a heavy gay influence but diversified. The village has everything and anything, east village and west village being pretty different.

The real issue Merrin, is affordability. And you really need a job before getting the apt. unless you're independently wealthy. Landlords want to see a certain income.

NY Magazine has some info at

nymetro.com/realestate

but I agree, try to do a search on the NY Times website. You have to register there for free to access their archives.

mclaurie

Actually, my best piece of advice is to do a short term rental (3-6 months) to start if you can and explore the various areas on your own. Reading about an area is not the same as experiencing it yourself and what I like may not be what you like.

If you're young, Astoria Queens is also becoming a popular affordable option (just over the 59th st bridge) as is Hoboken, NJ. West New York, NJ and Weehawken also offer more affordable options just a bus ride or ferry away from Manhattan.

merrin

Thanks for your responses. Just to provide more info that some of you were wondering about, like budget. I guess the days of finding rent under $1000 are long gone. I was thinking maybe $1200 but those seem to be in BedStuy, where ever that is. I should probably up that to $1800.

Finding a job wont be a problem.

And regarding neighborhoods, I think the UWS would suit me more than the UES only because of the casual, artsy atmosphere that someone mentioned. Brooklyn sounds good too.

I'm going to check out the NY Times and NY Magazine as suggested. Please feel free to keep posting comments.

Merrin

nytraveler

$1200 is not really an option for an apartment on the upper west side. You might get a small studio for around $1800 or so - a one-bedroom is more like $2500. $1200 is not really an option for Manhattan - except perhaps Inwood.

And in order to get an apartment you will have to have first months rent, security deposit, agent's fee - and be able to show an income commensurate with the rent - or have a guarantor.

For that amount you're looking mostly at places outside of Manhattan - perhaps Astoria is an option. (You do NOT want to live in Bed Stuy.)

Your other option is a share in Manhattan.

However, I urge you not to be too decided on rent until you have a good feel for the job market (salaries in NYC are higher) and consider other savings (in Manhattan you won;t want a car - so will save on insuranve and car payments - money that can go to rent.)

Yawn_boring

The UWS is okay but I greatly preferred living in Brookyln, where we had an apartment in Cobble Hill. The UWS, and many Manhattan neighborhoods, aren't really neighborhoods at all. There's little sense of community. In Brookyln, on the other hand, you get to know your neighbors.

nytraveler

Yawn_boring -

Sorry to disagree - but it sorts of depends on where on the UWS you live. If it's west 72nd - then it is sort of like living in a subway station. But most of the area is very neighborhoody - with frequent block parties (real block parties - not the only commercial "columbus Ave festival things) in the summer and tons of community activities.

As for knowing your neighbors - when there are 5,000 people on your block naturally you're not going to know all of them - but this is an area people tend to live in for a long time (unlike the very transient dormatoriums on the far east side) and many people do know a lot of their neighbors.

I rarely go out for errands without meeting someone I know. And since many of the side streets are at least partly occupied by brownstones, some still family owned - you even get a sense of who's moving out - or in.

suzanne

Wanda, I don't believe that you claim to "love Brooklyn" and you haven't even heard of Carroll Gardens. Get yourself on theat F train girl, and check it out! Smith Street, while not a "pretty" street, is full of eclectic shops and bars/restaursnts with big backyards - wonderful in summertime! Court Street is prettier with less of the "hipster" factor. Side streets are full of pretty brownstones and rowhouses.

Merrin-
UES: I used to live there. It may be the most inexpensive area of Manhattan south of Harlem. It's great for a transition from the suburbs. Lots of high rises, shopping, restaurants, and it's near the park (Central, that is). The further east you go (typically) the cheaper it gets. Very very safe. The only problems are (a) one very crowded subway line, which you can get used to (b) it's not "cool" like downtown.

Chelsea: I work there. Very hip, very gay, very expensive. High rises & low rises. Gorgeous side streets. No big green spaces.

Park Slope: Wonderful, safe. I have many friends who live there. NO high rise buildings...lots of pretty browstones, shops, restaurants, and it's on Prospect Park - great for biking, jogging. Has become a pretty rich area, though is made somewhat affordable by its distance from midtown.

Village: Umm...which one? West Village=celebrities, gorgeous, untouchable real estate. East Village = hip, young, relatively cheap, tons o' bars & cheap restaurants. not that pretty, but definitely cool.

Bed Stuy: Don't even think about living in this area unless you are a true pioneer. Beautiful browstones abound, and though it is getting safer it is still not really safe. Some artists are starting to set up shop there because it's cheap....but it will still be awhile before things "come around". There is very little in the way of services there.

merrin

Thanks everyone, it seems like there's more responses to Brooklyn than other neighborhoods.

Anyway, could I get some opinions on this property that I printed from the classifieds, ie price and location: (sorry but the description is pretty lengthy)

$1550 / 1br - 1BR - Large, Bright, NO FEE, Fab Roof-deck, Elevator, Pets OK

This is a big, bright one-bedroom apartment with a large living room, really big bathroom and kitchen with a walk-in pantry. It faces South and East and is on the 3rd floor of an Elevator building.

The apartment is immaculate and in excellent condition having been newly renovated. It has high ceilings (almost 11 feet), exposed brick, hardwood floors, track lighting, an intercom, beautiful fixtures and lots of extra storage spaces, and kitchen cabinets and counter space.

Also, there is NO fee. Heat and water are included in the rent. To move in requires one month's security deposit, one month's rent and a $20 credit check/application fee. Students are OK. Guarantor's are OK. Dogs, cats, birds, bunnies etc. are totally welcome!!

As a bonus, there is a VERY large (14,000-sq. ft.) drop-dead amazing wood-covered community roof deck with over 60 flower boxes and many sculptures from a former art gallery. Chairs and tables with umbrellas are provided so that the space can be enjoyed in all kinds of weather. It's a really relaxed and artistic space. The deck also has views from the George Washington Bridge to the Empire State Building.

This prewar building has a marble lobby and an elevator. The super lives onsite so it is always clean. There is a wide range of people living in the building. Many students, grads, young professionals, designers, artists, actors, dancers, families, people from overseas and out-of-state, and dogs and cats; just a real nice NY mix. And the rooftop garden makes the building really special. You actually get a chance to know your neighbors in this casual setting.

This is also a very safe and convenient area. The apartment is close to the 1/9 (a 5-minute walk on well-lit Broadway) and ABCD trains and is three subway stops from Columbia downtown and one stop to Columbia uptown. Supermarkets, banks, drugstores, a 24-hour gym, dry cleaners, an indoor parking lot, and restaurants (Spanish, Caribbean, Chinese, Soul food, and pizza) are all within a few blocks.

It's a relaxed West Harlem neighborhood oriented to Riverside Park, which has a bike/walking/running path and the Hudson River which are both one block away. Also, Riverbank State Park with its basketball and tennis courts, track, skating rinks, indoor swimming pool and gym is very close.

$1550 / 1br - 1BR - Large, Bright, NO FEE, Fab Roof-deck, Elevator, Pets OK

This is a big, bright one-bedroom apartment with a large living room, really big bathroom and kitchen with a walk-in pantry. It faces South and East and is on the 3rd floor of an Elevator building.

The apartment is immaculate and in excellent condition having been newly renovated. It has high ceilings (almost 11 feet), exposed brick, hardwood floors, track lighting, an intercom, beautiful fixtures and lots of extra storage spaces, and kitchen cabinets and counter space.

Also, there is NO fee. Heat and water are included in the rent. To move in requires one month's security deposit, one month's rent and a $20 credit check/application fee. Students are OK. Guarantor's are OK. Dogs, cats, birds, bunnies etc. are totally welcome!!

As a bonus, there is a VERY large (14,000-sq. ft.) drop-dead amazing wood-covered community roof deck with over 60 flower boxes and many sculptures from a former art gallery. Chairs and tables with umbrellas are provided so that the space can be enjoyed in all kinds of weather. It's a really relaxed and artistic space. The deck also has views from the George Washington Bridge to the Empire State Building.

This prewar building has a marble lobby and an elevator. The super lives onsite so it is always clean. There is a wide range of people living in the building. Many students, grads, young professionals, designers, artists, actors, dancers, families, people from overseas and out-of-state, and dogs and cats; just a real nice NY mix. And the rooftop garden makes the building really special. You actually get a chance to know your neighbors in this casual setting.

This is also a very safe and convenient area. The apartment is close to the 1/9 (a 5-minute walk on well-lit Broadway) and ABCD trains and is three subway stops from Columbia downtown and one stop to Columbia uptown. Supermarkets, banks, drugstores, a 24-hour gym, dry cleaners, an indoor parking lot, and restaurants (Spanish, Caribbean, Chinese, Soul food, and pizza) are all within a few blocks.

It's a relaxed West Harlem neighborhood oriented to Riverside Park, which has a bike/walking/running path and the Hudson River which are both one block away. Also, Riverbank State Park with its basketball and tennis courts, track, skating rinks, indoor swimming pool and gym is very close.

Merrin

nytraveler

Can you give the exact address of the building (the subway info about Columbia doesn;t make sense - so this may be a decent neighborhood - or a marginal one). Also- where did this info come from?

(There's noting wrong with a marginal neighborhood - as long as you know about it - that's one of the traditional ways of getting into the market if you're buying - buy marginal - and in 5/6 years the value has gone up a lot. But it doesn;t work as well for rentals - since you don;t get any equity - and the rent continures to rise every couple of years.)

GoTravel

That apartment sounds like Urban Legend to me. I hate to be pessimistic but most people I know that live in Manhattan have searched years for that apartment.

Good luck tho, I'm jealous!

Want to add that the UWS has a wonderful neighborhood feel!

lisettemac

Merrin -- I think you want to figure out *exactly* where this apt is located. The West Harlem neighborhood around Columbia is very nice. Stray much from around Columbia and it gets not-so-nice quickly.

P.S. "No fee" apts are usually too good to be true. Especially for someone relocating from elsewhere, I've found that it can be very tough to get an apt without paying a fee.

mclaurie

In case you don't know, merrin, Columbia is on the extreme upper westside or an area known as Washington Heights. If you look at the subway map

http://www.mta.nyc.ny.us/nyct/maps/submap.htm

it might help give you perspective.

The hunt for an affordable apt. in NYC is legendary. You should also understand you can't do it from a distance and "come on" ads are notorious.

QC

Glad to see the usual gang of rocket scientists here can't read a subway map.

Your mystery apartment is on or near 157th Street (one stop on the 1 Train to Columbia's Medical Center at 168th Street, four stops on the 1 Train from the main campus at 116th Street).

The 150's is on the border between Washington Heights and what is now called Hudson Heights (upper Harlem). The eastern part is largely filled with Hosuing Projects (Polo Grounds Houses), the western portion oriented around Broadway is largely inhabited by immigrants from the Dominican Republic, students at Columbia and City College, and people who like a good deal. The famous Rucker Park basketball courts are in this neighborhood.

You will need to determine your own comfort level about this neighborhood. It abuts Riverside State Park, which is constructed atop a large sewage treatment plant, which sometimes smells. There are few glamourous stores or restaurants. It is a transitional area.

However, the apartment sounds like the going rate for that area. There are many bargains in Upper Manhattan. It could be really nice. If you are comfortable living in an immigrant neighborhood or a little off the beaten path, it could be a good opportunity. The ad suggests new investors have renovated it, or an old-time resident fixed the place up. Owner-occupied apartments can be a good deal sometimes.

If you go to the NYPD website, you can check the local CompStat crime statistics for the neighborhood. This will give you an idea what to expect. At one time this was a very dangerous area, but it has changed a lot in the recent past. Get the most recent data.

acwsf

In my experience, most apartment buildings/management companies will require that your income must be 40x one month's rent. Otherwise, a guarantor will be needed. I don't know where you are moving from, but in some cases, a guarantor from out of the tri-state area will not be acceptable. This may not be an issue for you, but it's something to keep in mind.

I lived on the LES (Lower East Side) in case you are interested in feedback on that neighborhood.

nytraveler

If QC is right about the location (I have never heard Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center called "Columbia" - that refers to the university at 116th st) this is very much a transitional neighborhood.

Distinctly less dangerous than it used to be - but still quite a ways to go before it could be considered gentrified. (I would not be comfortable taking the subway home after rush hour or being on the street at night alone.)