We hadn't been to NYC in 7 years. So, we took a long weekend to reacquaint ourselves with the city. Our focus was on food with a little shopping thrown in.

We decided to stay in Chelsea this time because we wanted to get away from midtown and the throngs of tourists this trip. I have lotsa Hilton points so we used those to stay at a newer Hilton property on West 26th between 6th and 7th. Our room was nice and quiet. Very new and modern. The hotel bar was stylish. There was a rooftop bar with a good view of the Empire State building. However, it needs to be upgraded a bit. They used a lot of unpainted wood and while the outdoor furniture is nice, the look is more beach shack than city chic. The staff is very friendly and helpful and my husband made fast friends with the bell captain, Alen. The hotel is close to the High Line and Chelsea Market. Also, it's an easy ride up 6th to midtown and we had 2 dining reservations in midtown. We enjoyed the property and would stay there again.

The down side was the weather. Gray, cloudy and chilly for most of our long weekend. But, no matter we had a great time.

I had hoped to hit some food trucks this trip, but it didn't happen. There's always next time and we did not hurt for great food.

The highlight was a lunch at Le Bernardin. It wasn't officially an anniversary trip but our 7th anniversary was the day after we returned. I have always wanted to go there and have a huge crush on Eric Ripert. More about that later....

We enjoyed running in the AM to the High Line and down to the meatpacking district. We like to run to help us find places we want to come back to later. We loved the area and decided to end at Chelsea Market for breakfast...well, at least the first day.

So, our first day we went to Chelsea Market to check it out and get the lay of the land. I picked up some little cheese biscuits and strawberry balsamic jam for our Saturday afternoon cocktail at Lucy's Whey.. I made myself wait on the Fat Witch brownies but did have a little sample and it was GOOOOOOOD! So much great stuff there and I would kill to have that seafood market near my house! Terrific looking gelato, cheese, Italian foods, Jacques Torres chocolate, Amy's bakery...This was just for scouting and to avoid gaining 50 pounds, we just window shopped.

Lunch was at John's Pizza on Bleeker St. Maybe not was good as I remembered but good. Well, good enough that we ate the entire thing! Our room was finally ready and we went to warm up and clean up prior to dinner.

After a shower and some rest, we decided to try out the rooftop bar. The Hilton really promotes it. Unfortunately, the gray day didn't give us a great view and I had the worst wine I think I ever had. So, a bit of a bummer but we were off to Milos for dinner.

Milos is a pretty place and it was busy! You know it's good when they place is full at 6:30pm. We started with octopus (excellent) and split a Mediterranean sea bass for our entree. The fish was grilled with olive oil and lemon, very simple but simply delicious. We also learned Mediterranean sea bass also has about 5 other names. The baklava we had for dessert was the best we have had anywhere. We have had a lot of baklava! We both love Greek food and go out for Greek a good bit. The baklava at Milos is buttery, flaky, crisp and not overly sweet (often a problem with baklava, too sweet, and the bottom is soggy). We thoroughly enjoyed Milos!

Since the St Regis is right down the street, we had to end the night with a cocktail at St Regis King Cole Bar. Didn't we? I know it's a cliche but what the hell. It was a lively Friday night at the King Cole but I got a seat at the bar. We enjoyed it. And, by the way, the Alain Ducasse restaurant in the center of the hotel is beautiful! The hotel is lovely and we are glad to have stopped in.

So, speaking of cliches...the cab drive through Times Square on the way back down to Chelsea. On a Friday night? Well, is spec-tacky-lar a word? No, it is now!! You just have to be there at night to really get it. It's crowded, loud, full of chain restaurants but it was somehow fun passing through the craziness. I do love NYC.

Time to rest up for a Fridayr un on the HIgh Line and around the meatpacking district, A trip to Amy's Bakery, lunch at Le Bernardin, drinks with a cousin who lives in Chelsea (on her rooftop top, of course) and dinner at Thalassa in Tribeca. Will Le Bernardin live up to it's reputation, what pastry will a settle on at Amy's, is Thalassa as good as Milos?
More later...stay tuned!

Wow! Your trip sounds awesome. You go and you think that you have things worked out and then you read a trip report and see more things you need to do! Great report! I can't wait to hear about Le Bernardin.

True, everywhere. I still have so much to do in NYC and Paris...that is good about travel, always an excuse to go back! Right?

Denisea! What took you so long to get back to "my" City?!

Sounds like a great trip, but I'm not surprised. You and Chaz travel much like my husband and me - in terms of activities/priorities, etc. (OK, except we don't run. ;-)).

I remember my one and only lunch at Le Bernardin like it was yesterday (and it was in the mid-90s) so I'm eager to hear about that. I love ER.

Of all the things I miss about NYC after living in a couple different places since I left - it's a restaurant, preferably Greek, that can grill a whole fish so simply like that, yet make it taste like the best thing on earth.

NYC has some fabulous hotel bars, cliche or not.

Looking forward to more! (We're heading up this weekend - trying to go twice a year now that we live closer.)

Spec-tacky-lar Love that! My office is in Times Square and it is exactly that an ANY hour!

(btw Ate in Reed this week. It was wonderful!)

Never meant for that much time to pass between visits.
Hope to write more tonight! The LB lunch will be in the next edition!

Friday morning started with a run up and down the High Line and around the meatpacking district. I am being made fun of mercilessly for pointing out all the landmarks that were shot in any Sex in the City episode or movie, and of course, there are many!

We had to laugh at the Fat Head style decals that people have put in their windows along the High Line that wave to you.
I spot Scoop NYC from the High Line and that is on my list for a visit. Diane von Furstenberg is right across the street. Lots of great designer shops and cute cafes and restaurants. Will we have time to stop in at Pastis? Who knows?

We end up at Chelsea Market and Amy’s Bakery. I love all things baked! It all looked wonderful and I showed amazing restraint. I really wanted multiple items (and I deserved them after the run, right?). But, I need to be on “empty” when we get to Le Bernardin. So, I settled for a pain au chocolat and apple cider. Chaz got a little ham and Swiss Panini on a savory roll of some kind and grapefruit juice (fresh). I do love a fresh pain au chocolat and Amy’s does very well with them! All delicious.

We head back to the Hilton to clean up and get dressed for the big lunch. We had time to shop a bit before lunch so we went back to the meatpacking district. I actually got something on SALE! That never happens, but I happily bought a discounted leopard print DVF scarf. There wasn’t time to try anything on but the dresses at Ports 1961 are very cool and very well made. I probably should have gone back later. I did pick up a Fat Witch brownie for later, caramel for me, plain for Chaz. Lots to see and think about. All Saints wasn’t quite open when we got there, and we did not have time to stop in before we left. But, I wanted to go back for a cool T shirt or two.

It was finally time to grab a taxi and head to throne of American dining. We didn’t want to be early, of course. Only a rookie would show up early! But, we were feeling like little kids on Christmas Eve.

Well, right from the start, Le Bernardin does everything right. Coat check gives you a little metal claim tag. I mean, paper just would not do. The restaurant is modern but still warm. It is not fussy and I love the huge wall that is the ocean. The restaurant is about seafood, so it makes sense. The noise level is low. They think of everything but they don’t hover or make you uncomfortable. I sneezed twice and there was a waiter with a tray…with a box of Kleenex on it. My only surprise was that it took a few minutes to get a black napkin rather than a white one (a must when you are wearing a black skirt)!

Before I get to the food, can I just say that even the ladies room is beautiful and top notch? Well, it is.
We started with some bubbly, of course. They had a kind I did not know, but fell in love with. Alfred Gratien Rose. C’est delicieux.

Next, the amuse… little toasts with a salmon and chive spread. I hate salmon but this was good.
The bread basket. I really wanted to ask for one of everything. But I did and I settled on the brioche and Chaz the sourdough. The brioche was only slightly sweet and not too soft. I got the sourdough on round two and it was terrific. The butter was sooo good (when is it not?) and topped with a little fleur de sal. It was at the perfect temperature and they changed out three times during the meal. I am not sure what prompts the change, we were never in danger of running out.

We chose Billecart Salmon Rose (our absolute favorite) for the meal. Always delicious. They restaurant had two sommeliers available but we had to have the Billecart.

Then the first course…I had flash marinated scallops with sweet and sour grapes and Yuzu olive oil vinaigrette. Chaz had the octopus a la Plancha with black garlic, olive puree. They were both phenomenal. Too different to compare, mine was cold, Chaz’ was hot. But they were both wonderful.
For the main entrée, I had the Dover Sole (which is an up charge but it is a huge portion) with truffled mache salad and red-wine cassis sauce Chaz had the crispy Black Bass with Black Garlic - Persian Lime Sauce. Again, both perfectly cooked and delicious. Mine came with little fingerling potatoes and Chaz’ came with pickled cucumbers.

Next up dessert. It is interesting that the desserts are classified by the main flavor, so I got Banana, Chaz got Chocolate Peanut.

They are beautiful and not too large. The banana was Banana bread, Viennese Cinnamon ice cream, chocolate mousse and caramel sauce. The Chocolate Peanut was Madagascan Chocolate Ganache, Peanut Mousse, Salted Caramel Ice Cream.

This is where I checked out the ladies and room. Lovely. While I was away, Chaz asked our waiter if Chef Ripert was there (I knew he was not as I follow him on Twitter). Anyway, he returned to tell him that Chef Ripert was not it….I seriously would have died if he had been. But, sweet of Chaz to ask! He gets the same credit he would have gotten if Chef Ripert had been there!

So, as all good restaurants seem to do, it’s not over when dessert ends. Coffee (which I rarely get but you know it will be good at a restaurant like this). They also brought out some tiny little lemon cake squares. I love getting a second little dessert.

So that wraps up this little episode. We were sad to see our lunch come to an end. It was a great experience and may have moved into the number spot for all time meals! The reputation Le Bernardin has is well deserved. Next, Friday part deux…shopping, St. Patrick’s, rooftop drinks and Thalassa.

Btw, it's not you - your other report definitely was not there before! Weird.

Regarding Friday part deux - I'm impressed there was a part deux. I think I would have needed a long nap after lunch. ;-) Sounded wonderful.

Glad that the schizophrenia episode is over, Denise. And that was some fantastic meal. Have never eaten there! Was once asked to go as a guest of someone, sort of last minute, and I thought really hard about breaking a date I had already with old friends, but just couldn't do it. That was a long time ago, and I'm still thinking about it!!!

Thanks for the vicarious meal!

Wonderful report and will make sure we go there this summer. Delicious, as we are seafood lovers! How far in advance does Le Bernadin take reservations?

YankyGal, thanks I am really losing my grip on reality and that was driving me crazy!

taconic...glad you can live vicariously through me...one of the great things about the Fodors, we all live through our Fodor friends!

Happy Trvlr - I think one month in advance and get on it that day (Open Table). I waited until the night of one month ahead of time and all I could get was dinner at 10:30pm! Although lunch is less expensive, so it worked out!

Eager to hear about your Thalassa experience. We've been there three times in the last year, once for a major celebration, another time with a Greek friend (one who lives in Greece.) All three meals were stellar and our Greek friend was thrilled with the meal. Hope you had as positive an experience.

So Part Deux...

Post Le Bernardin buzz led to some shopping. We stopped in to St Patrick's to light a candle for a friend. We do so in every city we go to so our friend is always with us.

It had been so chilly and I have been needing to finally get a decent so trench, so hit Burberry on Madison Ave. I felt incredibly guilty for cheating on my Burberry guy in Atlanta. But I needed a coat for the crappy weather.

I should say that the sun literally came out while we were in Le Bernardin and the afternoon was lovely. But still cool and Saturday's forecast said I needed to get that trench. I also threw in a bright blue scarf.

We stopped in at Ferragamo to look for Chaz' fantasy shoes...elusive and they never have his size. NYC was no different...maybe they are meant to be bought in Rome when we go this Fall.

At around 4pm we decided to head back. Friday can be tough at grabbing a cab, so better to get ahead of the rush.

A little cat nap, clean up and we got a call from Chaz' cousin who lives in Chelsea. If we hurry, we can squeeze in a tour of her apartment and have some wine on her rooftop with her fabulous view of the Empire State building. Off we go, she only lives a few blocks away from our hotel.

Carla has a great view, really. It was so nice and for once we had nice weather. We caught up and got our first glimpse of the supermoon. (We drank Chianti).

We got a little carried away and realized we were late for dinner....cab on 9th ave to get over to Tribecca and Thalassa. A friend recommended it to us. Well, in all fairness it was after Le Bernardin...

It is a beautiful candlelit restaurant. And who doesn't look good in candlelight (or at least better)? I dunno...we could never quite put our finger on it but it just didn't wow us.
It was good, but not great. Milos is better as far as Greek seafood. I always felt like the waiter was upselling us. Chaz had sea bass, I had langoustines. His was good, mine were sweet but a tad mushy. The appetizer lamb meatballs and mini-lamb chops were good. The baklava was all right. Just not great. It was pleasant but I probably would not go back and it really is a pretty place. A little bit of a miss, but no matter.

It was a great day and we went to bed with dreams of our Le Bernardin day. If you can, go there just once in your life.

Sorry Thalassa didn't measure up. One night a food critic sat next to us and shared her multiple courses. She loved it all as did we and we were quoted in her article. Everything tasted as good as if we were in Greece.
We'll try Milos and Molyvos this summer and see how how we like them, Le Bernadin too.

Wasn't that super moon fabulous? I stood outside in chilly weather for a long time, just transfixed! We were lucky to see it twice. Iguess that's what they mean by "moonstruck."

You were lucky if you were on a rooftop!

A good friend recommended Thalassa while we were dining at Kyma in Atlanta. I was disappointed....very hard to decide why though. Maybe it has slipped a bit or we had an off night.

I forgot to mention that Le Bernardin also graciously gave us a Zagat NYC restaurant guide. Nice touch!

Saturday morning started with a High Line and Meatpacking district run. We had planned to head back to Chelsea market for breakfast. But, plans change don't they and many times that's a very good thing.

We decided to take a look at The Standard Grill. It is a charming looking spot right there as you leave the High Line. It was gray out but they have lots of outdoor seating and we decided to have breakfast there. What a great idea. I have to say that the bacon there is the best I have ever had. I have had a lotta bacon in my time and this was thick and perfectly salted. The best thing is that it was absolutely perfectly evenly cooked - every single piece. I also had fresh squeezed OJ and pancakes with strawberry compote. So delicious. Chaz had an omelette with bacon and cheese and potatoes. Also very good but the bacon was the star. If you love the breakfast pig....then you gotta go!

We headed down 6th Ave with the plan to check out the new World Trade Center building and the area around it. We snooped around SoHo on the way. We had hoped to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge afterward. However, it stayed gray all day and you could never really see the top of any buildings and it just wasn't going to work. Change in plans.....

Cab it to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Or so we thought, We ended up at MOMA....oh well, we hadn't been there before. I certainly enjoyed the Monet's, as always. The real modern stuff always makes us scratch our heads. How does one decide what great art is? We get the Andy Warhol pop art stuff. But we just laugh when the art is a black canvas with a red triangle on it. Some the installatiion art was though provoking. We enjoyed it even if we didn't always "get" it.

Too late for a big lunch but we needed something to hold us over until dinner. We stopped in at Bistro Milano. They entire staff sucked...except the only one working, Ben-Hur. He was very fun and energetic. And he seemed not to notice that no one else was doing anything. We got prosciutto with melon and a Margharita pizza to share. A glass of Rose for me and a beer for Chaz. The food was good...pizza could have been crispier, but it was good.

Chaz needed a nap after all the walking. Nap, shower, cocktail time!

The hotel bar is very nice and we decided cocktails were in order before dinner. It was perfect to catch the Derby, as well. The wine there was much better than on the rooftop. Then over to Le Zie. It's a little trattoria near the hotel that our cousin frequents.

It is small but nice. We chose the soft shell crab over polenta for our appetizer. Chaz LOVES gnocchi and chose that. I decided on the veal cannelloni special. Both were very good. Nothing fancy but very sold and generous servings. Chaz also got some meatballs....also good. Didn't come close to finishing!

It was Saturday night and we couldn't turn in too early. So we walked back down to the Meatpacking district for night caps. I don't remember the name of the place. Every place was busy down there. We had some wine and then a nice walk back to the Hilton. The last night! Tomorrow brunch at Mailino....

Thanks, Denise! I enjoyed reading and am so glad that you enjoyed those meals at Le Bernadin and Estiatorio Milos. A friend (a restaurant owner from the Bay Area) includes a pre-theater dinner at Milos each time she visits NYC. You chose very well with those two, both very different but certainly both justifiably lauded for having some of the best quality seafood/fish in the city.


I'll be eager to read of your other eating NYC experiences.

Thanks ekscrunchy....would go back to both in a heartbeat!

The last day....

I purposely booked our flight to leave late in the day, so we could do a little in the city before heading home.

As usual, a run on the High Line and in the Meatpacking district. But this time, no plans to go to Chelssea Market. We had brunch reservations at Mailino at the Grammercy Park Hotel.

We were ready to go (and hungry) early so we walked over early. We had just seen an episode of one the real estate shows talking about how the properties in the area come with a key to the lovely private park. Totally cool. I also love the Flatiron Building...it's a favorite landmark so it was good to get a look at it on the way over.

They were happy to seat us early at Mailino. The pastries in the cases looked so good and I love the warm, homey, Italian kitchen-like decor of the restaurant. Chaz got some coffee to start and I got the fresh OJ and a hot chocolate with cream (Italian style, no Swiss Miss and canned whipped cream here). So very good. Well, I really wanted to have the pasta but was dying to get the ricotta pancakes.

I decided to get an Olive Oil muffin (budino) to start, as "breakfast" and then go with Cacio e Pepe (a little head start on September's trip to Rome)!

Chaz did get the ricotta pancakes with strawberries, roasted potatoes and the black pepper bacon.

That muffin was so light and perfectly lemony. Perfect.

Ooo, the pasta was creamy and peppery. Delicious, but those pancakes were the star! They were slightly crisp on the outside and light as a feather. Couldn't have been any better and they are our vote for best pancake anywhere! The bacon was thick and wonderful, a close second to The Standard. You don't get much of it, so not as good a value but it is tasty. I really would love to have dinner at Mailino sometime. I can only imagine how good it is. The brunch menu has all kinds of egg dishes Italian style (Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana and others). They also had a carbonara pasta with Guanciale all kinds of pastries and more. I highly recommend it.

We spent the rest of the late morning and early afternoon finishing up some shopping. All Saints for T shirts and few others in the Meatpacking district that we hadn't gotten to. Great weather. The High Line was lovely and I wish we had this nice weather on our Saturday. That seems to happen a lot , great weather when you are headed out.

The hotel got us a town car to the airport and we were off. Easy check in and security at LGA (love the TSA Pre screened program)! Some flight delays as thunderstorm season has begun but we got home safe and sound. I hope we don't wait another seven years to go back. We both love NYC!

Hi all- The photos from our trip are posted at the link below. They are mostly of the food, of course!

https://picasaweb.google.com/1052181...CM_19vnU_82-Vg