My wife and I are doing a cruise from Whittier down to Vancouver on September 1st, 2004 and are flying into Fairbanks on August 27th (late at night). Currently we are trying to put together an itinerary and would appreciate any comments/ideas. Our current pre cruise itinerary is as follows:

Aug 27: Fly in late to Faribanks (Any ideas on reasonable accommodation close to Train Depot? - was thinking Minniestreet B&B)

Aug 28: Catch 8.15 am train from Fairbanks arriving @ Denali around noon. Check into Princess Denali Lodge for two nights. (any ideas on what to do for the afternoon?)

Aug 29: Do a shuttle tour deep into Denali and perhaps some back country hiking (any recommended hikes?)

Aug 30: Catch train from Denali to Anchorage arriving late Monday night in Anchorage. (any recommendations on Anchorage accomodation close to train station?)

Aug 31: Catch early morning train to Seward and do a half day fjord tour. Stay in Seward overnight (any recommendations on accommodation in Seward?)

Sept 1: Travel from Seward to Whittier for 9pm departure on cruise (does anyone know the names of any shuttle companies traveling from Seward to Whittier that will allow us the morning in Seward before travelling to Whittier in the afternoon? (Otherwise we will have to do a return trip to Anchorage on Aug 30)

We looked at hiring a car one way from Fairbanks to Anchorage as this would provide us with more flexibility, however found the drop fees to be excessive so I think the train is probably the best option (agree / disagree?)

I disagree on you car rental choice. You are seeing nothing of Fairbanks- so why fly into there- you may have cheaper and better flight options in Anchorage. The rail portion Fairbanks-Denali Park is the least scenic of the entire portion, my opinion only. You are also spending a great deal of your time in transit- rather than seeing destinations- determine if this is your priorty. You may want to look at Thrify car rental- yes they do have a drop off charge of about $200 but you would see and do far more in your journey. At this point you are only seeing Denali Park, on the Fairbanks-Anchorage portion. As for hikes- go to the www.nps.gov Denali Park listing- trails are mentioned- there are also ranger led activities that may be of interest. Your time there is excellent for Wonder Lake- again if that destination is of interest?? Most people just go out and return on the same shuttles. There is a shuttle service Seward-Whittier- listed on www.cruisecritic.com Alaska board. Only one in the morning I recall? I DO not recommend a day trip via rail from Anchorage- it is just too much in my opinion. If you go with Kenai fjords boat trip leaving at 11:30am they will store your bags. There are plenty of B&B's available. In Fairbanks- Minnie St is excellent- I have stayed there twice, close to the station - but I don't think they pick up?? I don't recommend the Denali Princess- only so so property.

Thanks for the comprehensive response.

The reason we're flying into Fairbanks is because we're using air miles and couldn't get into Anchorage early enough to make our short stay in Alaska worth while (also saves us doubling back between Anchorage & Denali).

We tried Thrifty's web site but they didn't have a site in Fairbanks listed. After looking at all the other car rental options we were looking at a total cost of about $600 (including the drop fee) whereas we were able to get two nights accomodation in Denali plus the rail transfers for $800 (for two people), which we thought was reasonable given (i) the rail cost alone and (ii) when compared to the rental car option (which excluded any accommodation costs).

Take your point on Princess Lodge. We're not really Lodge/Resort type people (B&B is more our style), however given we will only be sleeping there and will be looking to spend full days in the park (including going to Wonder Lake as you suggest), we're prepared to compromise on our normal preferences.

Thanks for the tip on the trip from Anchorage down to Seaward. Will definitely look to do the 11.30 am fjords trip, stay there the night, and then catch the shuttle to Whittier the next day. Do you have a favourite B&B in Seaward?

There are many good B&B's in Seward. Request their visitor guide www.sewardak.org

Just my 2 cents- sometimes focusing on money isn't the answer especially on a short trip in Alaska. I have ridden the entire Alaska rr a few times and it is best done with a lot of time, ideally the ability to see Fairbanks, Anchorage, Denali Park, Talkeetna and Seward. I don't find the Anchorage- Fairbanks run especially scenic and more repeative after 12 hours of travel time. I've seen a lot of sleeping passengers. Think through your priorities for touring Alaska. I go for 2 weeks, twice, per year. Repeat trips are necessary.

The writers of the Lonely Planet Alaska guidebook recommend avoiding staying in the congested area around the entrance to Denali NP known to locals as "Glitter Gultch." One area they do recommend, which is served by the park shuttle bus, is McKinley Village (six miles south). Here's a quote:

"The shuttle bus stops at McKinley Village Lodge (800-276-7234), an upscale lodge (with restaurant and bar) run by Aramark. Next door to the lodge is the Doyon-operated Denali River Cabins (683-8000; www.denalirivercabins.com) offering modern cabins with private bathroom (but no phone or TV), as well as a restaurant and bar."

Here's one more Lonely Planet recommendation:
"If you must stay in Glitter Gultch, your best bet is the Crow's Nest (888-917-8130; www.denalicrowsnest.com). Its modern log cabins, though a little tightly spaced, have common front porches with great views, and all are blissfully devoid of in-room phones and TVs. In addition, the Overlook Bar & Grill here is the best place to hang out with a beer in the entire Denali Park area."

Thanks for your help. You have got me rethinking my options. I'm still struggling to find the name of a shuttle company that will transfer us from Seaward to Whittier on our last day, so maybe it might be best to go with Avis all the way from Fairbanks to Whittier and give us the flexibility particularly to avoid staying in places like Glitter Gulch!

By the way, I know we're likely to see bears in Denali, but I'd also like to see them fishing salmon out of rivers. I hear that Katmai is the best place to see this (albeit expensive to get to), however someone else also mentioned that you can get a similar view in Wrangell-St Elias National Park - do you know if this is true?

www.polarexpressak.com has bus service Whittier/Seward. For any salmon fishing bears- you need the costly flights- look into Rust's out of Anchorage. Wrangell-St Elias National Park is HUGE and very undeveloped. This isn't known for wildlife viewing.

"someone else also mentioned that you can get a similar view [of bears fishing salmon out of rivers] in Wrangell-St Elias National Park - do you know if this is true?"
No, it is not true.
There are plenty of bears in Wrangell-St Elias National Park but to see them is not easy, as someone else mentioned, this park is huge and it is not known for wildlife viewing because it is so huge. For more fascinating information on watching bears and great pictures go to www.emeraldairservice.com You can hire a pilot to take you into wilderness of Wrangell-St Elias National Park. He/she will drop you of for a day and you could look for bears, you will be on your own. But would you realy want to do this or rather go with an organized very small group? When you go to Katmai National Park you will see many bears fishing for salmon. Yes, it is expensive but so worthy.

Lodging in Seward: Here are some quotes from the Lonely Planet guidebook.

"There are around 100 B&Bs in Seward; you can book through Alaska's Point of View (800-844-2424) even at the last minute."

"Creekside Cabins (224-3834) is beautiful and green, with a great sauna next to a deliciously icy-cold salmon stream."

Ballaine House (224-2362) is a good deal on a traditional B&B."

"The Farm B&B (224-5691) has rooms in the sprawling farmhouse (the top room is gorgeous) and a few nifty cottages scattered around the wooded property."

Hotels: "The Taroka Inn (224-8687)served as officers' quarters durng WWII. The efficient exterior hides huge, beautiful rooms, most with kitchenettes. Great value."

"Seward Lodge (224-7116)is fabulous and suites have kitchenettes and Jacuzzis. Package deals with Kenai Fjord Tours make this a better deal; there's also a free shuttle to the downtown area."

Thanks to everyone for their assistance in putting our itinerary together. As a result we have made some significant changes including flying into Anchorage as opposed to Fairbanks

We now arrive in Anchorage on the Friday night, hiring a car and will take a leisurely drive up to Denali on the Saturday, taking in the sights as we go. Have cancelled the Princess Lodge as suggested and will look to stay at the Denali River Cabins as suggested. Sunday we will spend a full day in the park and then on Monday drive back down to Anchorage (at a fast pace) and then onto Seaward (at a more leisurely pace). I know this will be a long drive but it beats catching the train and arriving late into Anchorage, also it frees all day Tuesday up for us. Tuesday we will look to do the full day tour of the Kenai Fjords and then Wednesday we'll try and find something to do in the morning before driving back to Anchorage to drop off the rental car and get our cruise transfer to Whittier.

How does this revised itinerary sound? Am I trying to cram too much in? Also has anyone used the "Alaska Toursaver" book and is it worthwhile purchasing given there will be two of us travelling?

I have used the toursaver for several years. It is of benefit- IF you have the plans already for the activities. I recommend TOuch of Wilderness B&B over Denali River cabins. Just an excellent B&B. I don't recommend driving Denali Park - to Seward in one day- you are looking at 9 hours. Better would be to leave Denali Park after your shuttle (only bus I recommend), and drive perhaps 3 hours to Trapper Creek/Talkeetna etc and overnight there. Then continue to Seward the next day as planned. There is no guarantees that there won't be road construction/ slow moving RV's etc. You can not count on consistant 55mph+ driving. You are doing back and forth to Anchorage a few too many times but under the circumstances probably your best option. Otherwise look at an Avis one way rental Anchorage- Whittier. Has a $100++ drop off fee- but would make far better use of your short time. If you don't go with the one way rental- determine your transfer timeframe- and how late it runs.

We used Budget Queens's excellent advice last autumn, and a kind Fodorite's left over coupons, on our second trip from Australia to Anchorage.
We loved the area around the Portage Valley, and the walk (and clamber) to Byron Glacier. (also Exit Glacier from Seward)
We were able to use the Tour Coupons for boat trips (2 for 1) from Seward, Whittier and Valdez, as well as rafting on the Katmai and lots of little things.
I think a loop from Anchorage to Valdez, driving one way and ferry the other, staying at least one night in Valdez, is well worth it.

They don't have the time for Anchorage/Valdez loop. I'll be doing the big loop again this year- Anchorage, Seward, Homer, Fairbanks, Valdez- back to Anchorage. But taking over 2 weeks. One thing Alaska needs is time- way too many underestimate.