December 28-31, 2016

After multiple Christmas celebrations with family and friends at home, we were eager for a dose of holiday festivities in the Big Apple. A Companion Ticket on Delta just could not be resisted.


Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Off to Cincinnati Airport (CVG) by 6:30 AM. Airport routine is same ole, same ole. Parking is easy, shuttle to terminal, time for a little McD’s breakfast before boarding.

Flight on-time. Snoozed a bit in flight…nothing exciting happened on board…cramped and tight on a small 2 x 2 seating arrangement.

LaGuardia is about an hour and fifty-minute flight time. It is no secret that LGA is a mess…lots of construction. Upon arrival, no gate is available due to many arrivals, so we must de-plane away from the terminal, using steps down from the aircraft to the tarmac, and then board buses to transport us to the terminal.

Bags are hastily retrieved, and getting a taxi is easy, with no lines. In contrast to other drivers we’ve experienced in NYC, our driver is strange and pays some bill he owes via phone as he drives us to Hotel Mela on 44th St., asking Tom for directions to the hotel from his phone. That’s a first for us in NYC! At that, he left us off 2 blocks from our hotel. Good thing that we had only carryon luggage!

When visiting NYC, we prefer to stay on W 44th St., between 5th and 6th. However, the prices at our favorite hotels were so steep this holiday season that we moved down W 44th across 6th to the Hotel Mela.

We checked in and stored our bags. As it is about noon, our room isn’t ready, so we told the desk clerk we’d return late in the evening, and off we went for lunch.

From previous trips, we recalled the Perfect Pint on 45th St. as having a pleasant atmosphere, good food, and, of course, good beer. We split a large burger and fries, and with cold Yuenglings ( $38). A tasty introductory meal! And, as we would later realize, it was good that we scrapped our original plan to eat at the MoMA.

After that satisfying lunch, we walked the blocks from 44th to 53rd to the MoMA, as it is challenging to hail a cab. Along 6thAve., we could enjoy the festively decorated stores, just a hint of what we would experience over the next few days.

As we turned onto 53rd, we could see throngs of visitors surrounding the area of the MoMA. Had we anticipated the humongous crowds at the museum, we would have purchased tickets in advance. However, our only choice was to wait in the rather lengthy line. Our fall trip to France, where we visited Arles and St. Remy, and learned so much about Van Gogh, was our motivation, as the MoMA has some paintings of interest.

Though Van Gogh had spent so much time in Arles and St. Remy, they had none of his paintings. We are not normally fans of modern art; however, we wanted to see Van Gogh’s works, especially “Starry, Starry Night”, as well as some other Post-Impressionists’ paintings. So, in addition to the ticket price, we paid the price of the long wait. But it was well worth it as we could take in not only paintings by Van Gogh, but other favorite artists, as well as a Klimpt and Chagall, which we liked.

Our bodies indicated that it was time for a break; however, the line for the café was as long as the main entrance line. So we took advantage of a more attractive option: the Baccarat Hotel on 53rd.

Upon entering the beautiful hotel, we met two young women at the elevator who had the same goal in mind: the hotel bar. We engaged in some friendly conversation as we awaited the elevator. When the 2nd floor hostess informed us that the bar was not yet open, and that there were no tables for two open in the salon, the women, whom we had quickly befriended, asked about a table for four. The hostess indicated in the affirmative, and we immediately formed a foursome and were seated in quite a large corner, with a couch, which the two women took, and two large, comfortable chairs which we enjoyed, each area separated by a large coffee table. So we had our own private spaces.

The Baccarat Hotel Salon is gorgeous; lovely appointments. Extremely high ceilings with ornate floor to ceiling draperies, elegant furnishings complemented with tasteful holiday decorations, with a uniformed and efficient wait staff. At another time, we would have opted for wine, but having had a drink at lunch, and anticipating wine with dinner, we enjoyed their flavorful cappuccinos with a serving of delicious macarons and truffles.

We relaxed in the Baccarat Salon for quite a while; a needed break in a lovely atmosphere. Re-energized, we walked to St. Thomas Episcopal Church at the corner of 53rd St. and 5th Ave. A very impressive interior, especially the 80-ft. high gothic backdrop behind the main altar which was imbedded with sixty sculpted statues. The projection of soft light onto the outstanding work of art highlighted the sanctuary. The myriad red poinsettias all over the church complemented the white sandstone interior. St. Thomas Church deserves a repeat visit on a sunny day to appreciate all the stain glass windows, including a rose window.

As we were leaving the church, darkness had just fallen, perfect for enjoying the lighted decorations. As we walked down 5th Ave. we admired the elaborate lighted facades on departments stores, like Ferragamo’s, as well as large banks and offices. Before heading over to one of our favorites, Saks, we made a stop in St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Knowing that we would return on another day, we enjoyed a brief overview, noting the red poinsettias throughout. We then crossed the street to take in the attraction of Saks 5th Ave. which, for us, stole the show of all the buildings.

The face of Saks featured a ten-story tall programmed light show synchronized to the “Carol of the Bells”. The timing of the lights and colors was phenomenal and made you want to watch it again. . . and again. We would save our enjoyment of the Saks window displays and its interior for another day.

This was Wednesday evening, and we suspected that, as the week-end approached, the crowds around Rockefeller Center would greatly increase. So we made our way down a promenade which we call the “Avenue of the Angels” approach to the heart of the Plaza. With the evergreens, and the holiday angel sculptures all with white lights, it is an impressive approach to the 94 ft. tall Rockefeller tree crowned by a Swarovski crystal star, filled with 1000’s of crystals and millions of facets, and said to weigh 550 lbs. The tree, fronted by the sculpture of Prometheus and the sunken plaza ice skating rink, has 1000’s of multi-colored LED lights. A phenomenal sight! We had ample time to take in the attractions, including the toy soldiers lining walkways on either side. The crowds weren’t too bad, and the temperature was pleasant for a winter evening.

As it was nearing time for our dinner, we walked through the Swarovski Square, filled with white-lighted trees, to Del Frisco’s Grill, Fortunately, we had made a reservation before our evening Broadway show. A couple who entered before us, with no reservations, were told that the earliest seating would be 9:00! Del Frisco’s is an attractive restaurant with a lively atmosphere, tasty food, and friendly service.

Although our original intention was to take a cab to the theatre, we ended up walking quite a few blocks to the Studio 54 Theatre to enjoy the Broadway Play “Holiday Inn”. It’s a story in song and dance built around Irving Berlin’s music through the years. It was lighthearted, and filled with excellent staging, singing, and dancing as one would expect in NYC. An enjoyable finale to our first day!

Having walked more than we anticipated today, our feet were begging us to hail a cab back to the hotel. Fare was $20 + tip. One-way streets and excessive traffic with lots of walkers made for an expensive ride, but it was worth it. Since the traffic was slow, we could enjoy the lights and activity in the Theatre District, including Times Square.

Arriving at the hotel by about 11PM, we found a nice room awaiting us: large, well-appointed, and, as we would discover, very quiet. Getting settled and ready for the following day, it was about 12:40 AM till we were totally turned in.

It had been a long, but fulfilling first day in the Big Apple. It hardly seemed possible that we had just arrived at noon.


Thursday, December 29, 2016

Up at 7; the shower is a good one, and we appreciate our nice-sized 10th floor room, with quality bed linens, and a quiet location.

The Un Deux Trois Restaurant is directly across the street from our hotel. Very convenient for breakfast. It was not very crowded when we arrived, but got much busier after 9. The crepes with scrambled eggs, bacon, and light cheese were about the best we’ve ever had. . .fresh and warm. With juice and coffee, our breakfast was $43.; reasonable for NYC. The Red Flame, a diner we’ve liked in the past, is a couple of blocks down the street, but the Un Deux Trois is so convenient, and gives us a little taste of France.

Rain was predicted for today, 100%! And, as we were finishing breakfast, the weather delivered as promised. We would need our umbrella as we walked up 6th Ave. from 44th to Radio City Music Hall on 50th. We were eager to attend the aptly named “Christmas Spectacular” featuring the Rockettes.

The line and crowd control was quite good, given the thousands of people attending…3 lines formed along the side of the building; purses and bags were checked, as well as open coats; phone, wallet, Garmin GPS, camera, etc. needed to be removed for checking. Just inside was a dog sniffing for powder. Wow, security! Tickets were carefully checked and 3D glasses were given for use in a segment of the show.

Radio City encourages attendees to arrive early. Of course, once inside you're not only taken in by the beautiful lobby with its large crystal chandelier, but by the counters around the perimeter filled with mementos, t-shirts, etc. This isn’t our first Christmas Spectacular, and each time we purchase a souvenir; this year it’s a special ornament.

Entering the theatre of Radio City is impactful. The amazing size, the interior dome-shape, the color scheme, the Arc Deco architecture, the lighting; it’s always a treat. Our seats are JJ from the front and almost dead center on the orchestra level.

What a great show! The Rockettes, the women’s precision dance troupe, are featured in almost half of the scenes. Color…live orchestra…dancing…singing galore…a 3-dimension early scene traveling with Santa across the country, returning to Radio City in NYC. The show is mostly secular Santa (Believe!) An impressive finale is a Nativity scene with the procession of the Magi and their retinue, including camels, parading across the stage. The performance is perfectly timed: 1 ½ hour long without an intermission. If anyone hasn’t experienced the holiday spirit before attending this performance, we think they’re bound to feel it afterwards!

Following the show, we quickly caught a cab being vacated by people arriving for the next performance. We’re traveling uptown through Central Park to 84th and Madison Ave. ($12 charge +tip) Destination: Grazie Restaurant for lunch before heading to the Met. Central Park looks quite different in the rain! But it was still interesting, and the shops on Madison Ave. were aglow with twinkling lights.

Grazie’s is a small place, feeling European. Again, having a reservation, when quite a crowd was gathered in the entryway, worked beautifully. When giving our name, the friendly hostess immediately responded, “I have a table waiting for you!” How nice!

What a delightful meal and experience! Everything on the menu looked so appetizing, and we splurged by each ordering a pasta dish, knowing that we don’t ordinarily eat that much at lunch. Tom had Orecchiette Lombardia with sausage and spinach, and Margie had Trenette laced with peas and carrots, with a most delicious sauce, and topped with short ribs. Anyway, about $25 per entry for the greatest tasting pasta dishes. Of course, wine had to accompany our meal!

We enjoyed a short conversation with two German guys sitting next to us who were in town to experience a New York Christmas.. One was an MD moving to Hershey, Pa.

Café Grazie is a definite repeat. What nice people work there! Classy little place, restrooms upstairs and down!

We walked a block down 84th from Grazie and arrived at the Met. Did we mention all the @##$ rain since we left the hotel this AM? As we approached the vicinity of the Met, and witnessed the throngs of people, we immediately realized that our lack of forethought in purchasing tickets online was going to cost us a long wait in the rain. The main front entrance was roped off, and the line snaked around leading visitors up the right side of the main stairs. Good thing we had water resistant coats with our umbrella for our ½ hour wait in the rain.

We planned to visit the Met for two reasons: to take in the Christmas tree and to enjoy their collection of Impressionists’ works, including more of Van Gogh. But, gads! The museum was overrun with people. Lots of kids as families are on vacation this week; school is not in session. Baby strollers galore. What a mass of humanity!

The Met is one of the world’s premier museums! Apparently, though the entrance is free, they ask for a donation of at least $1 (which is like nothing for this beautiful museum) to get a ticket that permits entry the main museum.

After purchasing our tickets, we headed to the back area to see the rather sizable Christmas tree decorated with angels in silk robes suspended on the branches. At the base is a Neopolitan Baroque Creche set against a backdrop of the ruins of a Roman temple and several quaint houses. It is surrounded by large numbers of 18th century figures of shepherds with their flocks, a procession of the three Magi with an assortment of animals of various kinds, including a camel and an elephant. Classical musical is playing, and the area feels rather peaceful compared to other parts of the museum.

A nice lady at a little info stand directed us to the 2nd floor to see the impressionists’ paintings. The Van Gogh that really stood out to us was his “Wheatfield with Cypresses”. Apparently, it was painted just after “Starry, Starry Night” and Van Gogh considered it to be his best summer painting. We were fortunate to get up close to see the detail.

We visited several galleries, as the collection of Impressionists at the Met is outstanding.
But, after a while, we were experiencing that “rundown feeling” as we had exceeded our two hours of standing in a museum which is our rule of “enough”.

We got a taxi at 4:30 or so (it is dark in NYC about that time !!!) and enjoyed the drive down 5th Ave from 84thSt. to about 54nd St. ($12 fare +tip). By now, the rain had stopped and we could feast our eyes on all the decorations of the upscale apartments on the Upper East Side, as well as the festively decorated store fronts and windows.

After vacating the taxi, we walked a few more blocks, and were soon in pursuit of a place to have a drink. Again, Saks was calling. We took their express elevator to the 8th floor café, perfect for a beer and a wine. A nice place to hang and relax before our 6:45 reservation at Brasserie Ruhlmann.

We allowed enough time to again take in the light and sound show at Saks, and pass through Rockefeller Plaza. In view of the increasing crowds, and the wet conditions from the rainy day, we were happy that we had enjoyed the area last evening.

At Brasserie Ruhlmann we were given a great table, looking onto the beautiful Christmas tree across the way in the Rockefeller Plaza. . .the best seat in the house.

We were still feeling the effects of our huge, but wonderful, lunch at the Grazie Café. So here we were in a French Restaurant, which does have a few non-French items on the menu, limiting ourselves to an appetizer of sushi and a bowl of lobster chowder.

We had a fun dialogue with the French manager who grew up in Normandy (city of Bayeux ) where he described that as a kid he would ride to the coast and swim in the ocean against the wishes of his mother, because occasionally a mine would blow up. He said his people were very grateful to the Americans for liberating the French, and discussed how he and his younger brother traveled to the formerly Soviet-dominated countries in 1991, just after the Soviet Union failed, in order to see how the countries and people were at the time.

In response to our question, the manager explained how this French restaurant got its German name. It seems that a Ruhlmann in Alsace was a famous furniture maker whose work was much admired by the original owner of the restaurant. He thought that the style of Ruhlmann’s furniture would blend in with the Art Deco style architecture of Rockefeller Center.

We completed our meal with vanilla ice cream and cappuccinos. We left with “A bientot”, “See you soon”, telling the manager that we enjoy his restaurant every time we visit NYC. We will return, and order more interesting menu selections.

At this point, having had another activity-filled day, we checked more lights along 5th Ave. and leisurely walked the several blocks back to our hotel. The festive decorations all around are terrific. Just can’t beat NYC for Christmas everything: decorations, food, things to do like Broadway plays and concerts, museums, and any variety of experiences.

Back to our hotel at 9:15, early for us. It had been a long but fulfilling day. Time to catch up on notes from the day’s activities, lest we forget, and get organized for tomorrow. Closing in on 11 PM, it takes some time to charge telephone and camera batteries, organize charge slips,etc. and ready things for tomorrow. Finally, good night!


Friday, December 30, 2016

Margie had had a very sleepless night. Possibly the Christmas celebrations at home and so far in NYC were catching up. She felt yucky with stomach issues. But not wanting to give up any enjoyment in NYC, we went through the morning routine and walked across 44th St. to Un Deux Trois Restaurant. Tom ordered an egg sausage sandwich, while Margie stuck to two eggs and toast. Our French waiter was very attentive. ($29).

We walked toward 6th and then 5th Aves to pick up some over-the-counter meds for Margie. Somewhere on the way, we paused to buy a NYC calendar for our home sweet home. ($15)

Our original plan for the day had been to head south to the Chelsea area, maybe visit the Whitney Museum, walk the Highline, and/or visit Macy’s on 34th. But, in view of the overcast skies, and Margie’s stomach upset and “dragginess” from lack of sleep, we decided to stay close by.

Just walking the surrounding streets of 5th Ave., with all the store decorations, provided entertainment. Christmas is a unique and wonderful time to be in New York. So we walked up to the Saks by a different route, this time to focus on the individual window displays.

The theme of this year, “Land of 1000 Delights”, includes magical landscapes of colorful candy and festive fashion. A few windows along 5th Ave. feature characters from the “The Nutcracker Sweet”.
It took a while to enjoy all the individual windows,especially given the crowds, but it was orderly and most people were courteous, moving along at a reasonable pace.

We visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral next door, intending to spend more time today than on our former brief stop. We walked all around the perimeter, enjoying the side altars, including the area behind the altar, stopping at the Nativity scene. A Mass was in progress; no visitors were permitted in the middle section. Since St. Patrick’s has gone through a refurbishment within the past few years, its beauty has been greatly enhanced.

Crossing 5th Ave. as we left St. Patrick’s, we had another chance to admire the powerful Atlas statue at the entrance to a 36 story International Building.

Rockefeller Center was conceived as a “city within a city”, and each time we walk through we notice different art in the architecture and interior of the buildings. Along the north walkway, flanked by Toy Soldiers and flags of many nations, we took the 49st elevator down to the lower level of the Rockefeller Center. A first for us, indicating Margie’s lack of energy.

We were not surprised to find the lower level extremely crowded, with no empty chairs in the food court. We felt lucky to land a table at Cucina & Co Café. We ordered a light lunch: small side salads with a bowl of clam chowder for Tom and a side helping of mashed potatoes for Margie.

Margie was feeling de-energized and in need of a rest, so we headed back to the hotel. While Margie caught a welcome nap (highly unusual for her!) Tom walked a short distance down to Broadway to the core of Times Square where he shot some photos and observed the setting up of the Square for New Year’s Eve tomorrow night. He then stopped back at the hotel and got the necessary boarding passes for tomorrow’s flight home. All this while Margie rested. Next step by Tom was to visit the nearby Times Deli , which he had psyched out, to bring some chicken soup and Diet Coke for a light dinner in our room before we headed to the theatre. All greatly appreciated by Margie!!!

About 7:10, we were freshened up and off to the St. James Theatre on 44th for our final Broadway play, “Something Rotten”, a spoof on Shakespeare and the Renaissance. It was “a musical” as a song refrain throughout reminded us, with many humorous references to literature and theatre, spoofs of other musicals, and filled with puns. It was a feel-good show, and we would have been enjoyed it more had we both felt better.

On the walk back to the Hotel, we paused to take in the dynamic lights and excitement on Broadway. It was almost 11 PM, and the area, brimming with energy, would make one think it was the middle of the day. New York deserves its name “City That Never Sleeps”. Much of this activity would, no doubt, continue through the night.

From Broadway, we had only a short walk back to the hotel on what had become a cold evening. But, thankfully, no rain. We made a stop at the Times Deli for a Diet Coke and Orange-Tango for our exciting nightcaps in our room. We were back in our hotel room to pack and turn in by midnight.

Saturday, New Year’s Eve, December 31, 2016

A later start today. 9:15 to Un Deux Trois for petit dejeuner; this time croque madame for Tom and a repeat of eggs and toast for Margie. This is our last ½ day in NYC. After 3 ½ days of festivities, we planned to be home for the midnight celebrations of the New Year.

We decided to go with our planned visit to Bryant Park, hoping to also take in the Public Library and/or Grand Central Terminal.

We got the OK from our hotel to check out at 1 PM instead of the normal 12 noon. After some final packing, we were off to Bryant Park. The walk is only about three blocks from our hotel.

Bryant Park had been turned into a Winter Village, with a huge lighted Christmas tree, a centrally-located ice skating rink, and surrounded by booths, covered and heated booths, with all kinds of wares, from jewelry to pottery to clocks and watches to wallets and scarves. Nice things! And many food stalls with delicious offerings.

We had a delightful experience walking around, visiting the many small booths, shopping for “drop earrings” for Margie($45), and found a motorcycle desk ornament with a clock in one wheel for our brother’s upcoming birthday ($40) plus a few other items. It was fun talking to the clerks, like the Taiwanese girl in the earring shop who is working on a master’s degree in business and is so knowledgeable about her home Island, as well as other world events.

We found a warm cafeteria, a large tent set up with a self-ordering counter, ample tables and some comfortable chairs, and waiters who delivered orders to the tables. Great for us to have cappuccinos and croissants and rest a bit while enjoying the view of the Christmas tree just outside the window. (Margie is only at about a 60% level, but is toughing it out). We spent so much time in Bryant Park that we had to give up on our other destinations. But, there’s always a next time for NYC!

Back to the hotel to check out by 1 PM. As we walked, we witnessed large numbers of police, seemingly meeting to get their assignments. It had been reported that 7000 police would be on duty in preparation for the big New Years’ Eve event.

Since leaving our hotel for Bryant Park, 44thSt. below 6th had been blocked off with metal crowd control across the whole street. Police were making sure that no one entered unless they had a key from the hotel to prove registration. Wow! We have pics of the number of police and “sanitation trucks” filled with sand as protection. There were large chunks of cement (3-4 foot blocks) in many areas ready to be moved into place so that no car or truck would be able to park and set-off a car bomb. Lots and lots of protection. But we found all the police and other NYC staff to be attentive, yet friendly.

Again, when taking leave, we’re happy that we have only carry-on luggage as we have to pull it up to 6th Ave. Just as we were about to cross, a cabbie saw us and stopped to pick us up. We were leaving extra early because we received cautions about the possible difficulty of getting a cab, and heavy traffic. But he traffic was actually light as went north on 6th, east onto 54th St, and over to the Triborough Bridge (now the Robert Kennedy Bridge).

Like most NYC cab drivers we’ve encountered, our driver is friendly and talkative. We arrived at LaGuardia around 2 PM, extra early for a 4:30 flight. ($40. +$7 tip). Tom thinks taxi drivers generally seem to like the +10% cash as a decent tip.

Airport traffic is so light that we are through security in a matter of minutes. The small food court is just outside the security area, with few choices. We went for the chicken noodle soup and Diet Coke. What else? We “killed” time by typing notes and reading the Wall St Journal that we had acquired at the hotel.

We boarded at 3:50 and departed at 4:30, expecting to be home in time to catch the Ohio State-Clemson game as well as the midnight ball drop from Times Square. A smooth flight, an unremarkable drive home.

It’s been another good visit to one of the best cities in the world! We normally leave with the feeling of so many things left to do, and It’s the same with this visit. Unusual that we didn’t get to Lincoln Center, or go for a walk in Central Park. The rain changed our plans for that. However, we left New York, as we’ve done in the past, with the intention of returning before too long, perhaps at another season of the year. But we feel that it hard to beat the electric atmosphere of New York for the Christmas Holidays!

We’re thankful to Fodorites for their ideas which we’ve accumulated over the past few years. More recently, we liked Denisea’s tip about the Baccarat Hotel, wonderful if you’re around the MoMA. New ideas always make for a more interesting trip, and we’re appreciative to everyone for the details they share. Happy 2017 to all!

Great report! I really enjoyed reading it. I was there during the hottest days in July last summer. Bryant Park was nice then-had wonderful gazpacho at Bryant Park Grill. I'd love to see the Christmas market. It's been years since I was there at Christmas time. Your report makes me want to go back in December. The Baccarat bar was on my list, as well as the Highline but I didn't make it to either last time. I'll put Grazie Cafe on my list for next time, too, now. Thanks!

SeaF, thanks for your nice response. NYC is fun anytime of year, and the seasons allow for different types of activities. December is great. . .we're thinking about making our next holiday trip for early December. We always seem to leave with things still on our list for a future visit.

Fun report! You hit some really neat places and packed in a lot. And Del Friscos is one of my favorites -- always a winner! Glad you had fun in NYC

Now you've put me in a New York state of mind. Thanks for the great report!

We were in aNY in early December - NY really does the Christmas season right. We loved the Adams light show (and remember we'll the vendor with the little clock things at the Bryant Park market). Great trip and great report.

Saks light show, that is!

Thanks to Bostonblondie226 and sf7307 for your interest in our TR. We may do NYC in early December next year, and will, no doubt, enjoy Del Frisco's.

Maitaitom, that New York state of mind comes easily, right? A great city any time of year.

Two embarrassing corrections: Each of us had an "entrée" at Grazie's, and a few windows at Saks featured the
"Nutcracker Suite."

Great Post. I liked it. Actually me and my family members are also planning for a vacation. I think New York will be the best choice. After reading your post it's quite exciting and sounds good.