gtrgrl

We'll be in Yellowstone and Grand Tetons this July (via SLC) for our first visit and would like to experience the Beartooth and Chief Joseph Scenic highways, maybe spending a night in Cody. As we'll be leaving from Yellowstone and returning to Yellowstone we need some advice as to what route would be our most scenic and best use of time. I've read posts which refer to "driving to the crest" on the Beartooth, then continuing on to Cody, but I need more info on where this crest is! Is it necessary to go all the way to Red Lodge? Should we go Ne entrance to Cody then return to the E entrance or reverse? Thanks to everyone who can help!

gwburk

We drove this exact route last year. We stayed in Cody at the Big Bear Motel. We took 120 north to 296 (Chief Joseph Hwy.) Left early in the morning and the drive was stunning (especially at the sunlight basin area). This road winds it way up to the beartooth hwy. Turn right and the scenery starts changing as you climb on hwy. 212. We were there in July and there was still snow along with the wildflowers. You really need to make the drive to Red Lodge to be able to view the "bear's tooth". The scenery is awesome in that area. From Red Lodge go east on hwy. 308 and then south on hwy. 72 back to Cody. This road is a flat desert-like drive. 6 to 8 hours for this route depending on how many stops you make. Hope this helps.

gtrgrl

So it's best to leave out the NE entrance and return via the E entrance? Is the 6-8 hours round-trip? If we choose not to go all the way to Red Lodge, how far do we need to go to get to the crest I've seen mentioned? Any other helpful input would be appreciated!

gtrgrl

Our plan was to leave from Canyon, stop in Tower for a look around, then proceed out the NE entrance to a look-out spot that has yet to be determined (trying not to go all the way to Red Lodge, for time's sake), then down the Chief Joseph to Cody for one night. BUT, just saw that the road from Tower to Canyon will be closed in mid-July! What should we do and how much longer will it take? We're first-timers, so our concept of just how spread out all this is is entirely based on your information. And we thank you for it!

Connie

You can still get out the NE entrence from the north part of the loop.

I'd drive til you get to the lookout/visitor center and then back track to the Chief Joseph Hwy down to Cody and back into the east entrance.

If you just go to the top (which I consider where the Top of the World store and the Beartooth Campground and Island Lake Campground are) you've missed A LOT.

You won't be sorry for back tracking. The view looks different from different directions and it's certainly worth another look. Chief Joseph is worth it also.

IMO, from the lookout to Red Lodge is no big deal.

gtrgrl

Connie: Any idea how long traveling from Canyon to the North part of the Loop to get out the NE entrance should take? Also, the lookout/visitor center you mention...can you estimate how many miles past the NE entrance we drive? This is exactly the type of info we're looking for. Thanks a bunch!

Syv

To go a little off topic, when in CODY - be sure to spend some time at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center.

drsawyers

FYI: Dunraven Pass (just north of Canyon Junction) will still be closed for construction this year, according to the most recent information I have.

I don't know exactly how much driving time this will add to the NE entrance, since I usually don't pay much attention to time when I'm in Y'Stone. Maybe an hour?

bob_brown

I did this trek one year, and would do it again.
We drove out the northeast gate of Yellowstone and drove up to the top of the Beartooth Pass and went down to a viewing area on the Red Lodge side. Then we turned around and retraced our route to the Chief Joseph Highway.

We followed that all the way to Cody, and re-entered Yellowstone via the East Gate.

I thought that was a spectacular way to end our last full day.

The Bearthooth had just opened and snow drifts were piled deeply along the road.
That added to the spectacular view.

I recommend the trip highly as a fitting climax to a good visit.

Any time on a clear day is a good time, however. The views are fine all the way.

gtrgrl

bob brown: Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience. How long did the trip take you? How far did you go on the Beartooth before turning around? We're still planning on doing this, but with the road closed between Canyon and Tower, it certainly puts a kink in things. I'm just trying to find out how big a kink and whether or not I need to re-arrange our itinerary while in YP to accomodate the extra time.

RuthMc

grtgrl, sounds like you're staying in Canyon. If so, you'll need to drive across the middle of YNP through Norris up past Mammoth and head east to get out of the northeast entrance. We came in through the NE entrance last year and had to do that route in reverse to get to Lake Yellowstone, which is south of Canyon. My best guess (and it's only a guess) is that it will take you a minimum of 1-1 1/2 hour to get from Canyon to the NE entrance-- lot will depend on whether you hit a wildlife jam. Buffalo walking in the middle of the road sure will slow the traffic.

Bobthenavigator says that he went as far as the viewing area on the Redlodge side. If that's the one I think it is, I think it's about 45 minutes from Red Lodge (we left from there very early in the morning), so you will have driven much of the Beartooth.

We left Red Lodge at 7 am, stopped several times on the Beartooth, in Cooke City for coffee, had lunch and a short walk in YNP, stopped many times to look for/at wildlife from the road, stopped at Mammoth Hot Springs for about an hour all together and got to the Lake Hotel around 3. Maybe that helps you figure the time.

gtrgrl

RuthMc: That's exactly the type of helpful info I'm looking for.
Thank you. Yes, we are probably going to stay in Canyon...maybe Lake...I've got reservations for both and am currently trying to decide which is the better choice for our family of 4 (2 boys 13 & 16). My preference is Lake, but I think, based on what many posters have suggested here, the boys might prefer Canyon. Guess I'll have to let DH decide! As you were there not so long ago, any recommendations? And how are cabins Vs. the Lodges at Canyon or Hotel at Lake? We were set to stay in cabins, but have since read that the cabins in both areas aren't really cabins at all and there is still availability in the Lake Hotel (lots of $$) and in the Canyon @ Dunraven/Cascade Lodges. Again, thanks for your help!

RuthMc

We stayed in the main building in the Lake Hotel and found it very nice--not posh, but nice. The cabins looked small to me but they're probably as big as our room was. I didn't see the inside, so can't give you any info on them. Canyon would probably cut about 1/2 hour off your trip out the NE entrance and it looked a bit more informal than Lake. There were kids at Lake, but was a more adult group, I think. Have a great lounge/sitting area with piano music on the weekends in the early evening.

bob_brown

First, we did not time the trip. We kept stopping and looking, particularly in Lamar Valley. We had plenty of daylight, so that was not a factor.

As I recall, after leaving the park, we drove through the national forest areas and turned uphill to the crest of the Beartooth Pass. Once at the summit, we continued down the mountain toward Red Lodge until we reached the first major view point or pull out area.

I don't recall exactly how far down it was, but we had descended to the point that we were losing the best viewing elevations.

On the return trip, we stopped at an old fire tower that is now mostly for visitors. The tower is well maintained, and, if staffed by a host, it is open to view. When we were there, the host and hosted were at home, and people were permitted to climb the steps and take a look from the area that was formerly manned by a fire lookout person.

After leaving the tower, we turned left onto the Chief Joseph Highway and drove to Cody.

Coming back into Yellowstone we were hit with a rain storm that was non trivial. Shortly after we started down the hill to the lake, our route was suddenly impeded by two huge bison boys, who acted like they owned the road.

The were plodding along at their own pace, and we had no choice but to follow because they were not of a mind to share the road! Finally they turned off, and we went on. The view of the lake from that position was pretty.

Given our dawdling pace, I think we used up 8 or 9 hours by the time we got to our room at Old Faithful Snow Lodge Cabins. But we were sightseeing as we went.

As I said earlier, it was a beautiful day, even with the rain!

bob_brown

We left from a motel in West Yellowstone around 9 am and drove via the Norris Geyser Basin to Mammoth and out the Northeast Entrance.

Once we got to the Beartooth turn, we went to the top of the pass and continued until we were losing viewing elevation. We turned around and retraced out steps.

I do not recall the exact spot where we turned around, but if memory serves me correctly, it was at a viewing area.

On the downhill side, we stopped at a fire tower that is now a visitor center and museum. At the time, there was a host and hostess in residence, and we were able to climb up the tower and take in the view.

Then we drove back to the Chief Joseph Highway and returned to Yellowstone via Cody and the East Entrance.

As I recall we got hit with a rain storm. As we descended toward the lake our path was suddenly blocked by the Bison Boys, two big ones. They soon moved on, but their presence was an added bonus.

I think we got to out cabin at the Old Faithful area about dark. All told it was a fairly long day, but given what we saw and what we did, it was short!!
I would not trade it for money, I know that.

bob_brown

Sorry for the duplicate, but the machine hung and I had to cancel out with cntrl alt delete and did not realize that my first posting had gone through. It popped up after I put in the second one!

gtrgrl

bob brown: Thank you for your wonderful recounting. I enjoyed it both times! We're certainly looking forward to creating our own Yellowstone memories. Please feel free to share any other recollections with us.

johnthedorf

It is so nice to read all your impressions. Having camped, hiked and skied in the back country of the Beartooth's and Absorka ranges I can understand how you would be marveled. The real beauty is in the pristine wilderness where trails run out and the land belongs to the fauna and flora. Walk softly.