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Alaska-McNeil River Bear Viewing Permit

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Alaska-McNeil River Bear Viewing Permit

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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 07:13 AM
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Alaska-McNeil River Bear Viewing Permit

A friend and I were drawn to receive a guided viewing permit for the Bears in McNeil River State Game Sanctuary in July. She didn't tell me we have to take our own tents/sleeping bags/food. Is there lodging close by for a reasonable price?
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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No. You'll have to charter a flight from Homer or Soldotna and fly in with all your food and camping gear.

Congratulations on getting drawn. I know people who have applied for 10 straight years and never got picked.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 07:20 AM
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You've confirmed what she keeps telling me - a once in a life time thing. Have you been to McNeil? Any advice?
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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Have you been to McNeil? Any advice?

I've photographed the bears at Katmai several times and applied several years for a McNeil permit but never got drawn. Pretty awesome when a 600 - 800 lb bear walks up to within a few yards.

I highly recommend a book written by Tom Walker and Larry Aumiller. Larry was in charge of McNeil for many years and Tom is a well-known Alaska photographer who lived in Homer many years (he now lives just outside Denali). The book has two names for some reason, either "The Way of the Grizzly" or "River of Bears", depending on the publisher.

The book describes the background of how the preseve was set up, with a lot of info on the camping area, viewing platform etc. Gives you a good idea of what to expect.

Aumiller quit a couple of years ago, disgusted when the Alaska Fish & Game (not sure of the exact name) wanted to open hunting for bears near the borders of the McNeil Preserve. He felt it was unethical to get bears used to people like at McNeil and then let hunters shoot them a short distance away. The number of bears at the falls is apparently far less now than it was a few years ago.

Have fun! Many people envy your luck.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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I just purchased the book you recommended on Amazon.com and will read as soon as I receive. I'm now researching how to get from Anchorage to McNeil. Doesn't look simple but has to be doable (didn't research ahead of time because I was told it was unlikely we would get a permit). Very sad about Alaska and their wildlife; all over the US for that matter. I hate to hear of the hunting allowed. Just doesn't make sense. Thanks for all the good info!!
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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I'm now researching how to get from Anchorage to McNeil

Almost everyone flies from Homer to McNeil, a small number fly from Soldotna. Anchorage is a bit far for the smaller float planes.

The info sent to the lottery winners should have a list of charter pilots you can contact. Ones I've used include Emerald Air and Smokey Bay Air in Homer.

Two other books you might enjoy are "The Grizzly Maze" by Nick Jans and "The Bears of Katmai" by Matthias Breiter. You can probably find one or both at a library.

"Grizzly Maze" is especially riveting ... it's the story of Tim Treadwell, who camped with these bears each summer for about 10 years, becoming so comfortable with them that he would pet some of them. He appeared on the David Letterman show, etc ... then he got too close to the wrong bear and he and his girlfriend were killed and eaten, the first (and only) two bear-caused fatalities in Katmai in 80 years. Very interesting reading.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 04:05 PM
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Congrats! Good for you, you won the lottery!

Re: Treadwell, the people I know who encountered him considered him a nutcase who took way too many chances with the bears.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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atravelynn - Thanks! I now need to organize everything to get myself and friend there. I've never been to Alaska so I'm asking for lots of advice. We're both passionate about wildlife/conservation so this will be a true adventure.

Bill_H - I'll check the Houston Library for the books. Love to read! The only flight out of Houston (nonstop) to Anchorage lands at 7p. I found a flight out of Anchorage (same day) that would get into Homer at 10p. Then the next morning fly out of Homer for McNeil (putting us in the day before our permit). Would Homer be a good place to buy food for the trip? I emailed North Wind Aviation (one on the list that would let you purchase a seat rather than charter) for some info. It looks like it'll take two days to get there. Does that sound doable? I saw the documentary on T.Treadwell - couldn't believe what he did.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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Would Homer be a good place to buy food for the trip?

Yes, there's a large supermarket (maybe a Safeway, can't remember the brand, but a large modern full-service market) on the main highway into town. Also a place to buy any camping or clothing gear like waders etc that you didn't bring, the Gear Shed ( http://www.kachemakgearshed.com/ )

Long day if you fly from Houston - ANC - Homer but will surely save you time!

Ask about the weight limit on the 'seat charter', if you have heavy camping and photo gear and are not svelte you may be overweight and have to buy an extra 'seat' ... just check in advance on the weight requirements, it can be a real problem if you arrive at the airstrip and find you can't take everything.

I saw the documentary on T.Treadwell

The movie by Werner Herzog was terrific, I'm pretty sure that's the one you saw, right?
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Old Mar 27th, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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Good to know about the market and Gear Shed. I don't have much in the way of camping stuff. In Africa I stayed in tented camps. Hope to borrow some things. I try to travel light but that will be difficult with having a tent, camera equip., waders (can I take my knee rubber boots instead?), etc. We're not big, burly guys (two females - my friend is tiny and I'm tall/average) so I'm hoping we can combine for a total weight. I just got a note from North Wind Aviation (on the list) and they charge $1,350 for two (500 lb max). Is that price reasonable? I'll check the two companies you sent to see what they would charge. What do you think of taking MREs for food? Or just take a lot of protein bars?

That is the documentary I saw. Herzog gave an interview beforehand. In a way I admired Treadwell for doing something he was passionate about but it was just a matter of time before he was killed. At least he died doing something he loved. And it brought attention to the plight of the Bears.
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Old Mar 28th, 2009 | 08:43 AM
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can I take my knee rubber boots instead?

I just checked in the Walker/Aumiller book you ordered and it says you need hip boots to cross the first creek on the hike from camp to the bear viewing area, sorry.

they charge $1,350 for two (500 lb max). Is that price reasonable?

Dunno what the going rate is to McNeil ... the place we went last Sept was $550 each from Homer to Katmai but perhaps not quite as far.

Here is a list of other air taxi services to McNeil put out by the Fish & Game folks:

http://wildlife.alaska.gov/index.cfm..._river.airtaxi

We have used Katmai Air several times since they are the concessionaire for Brooks Camp but it looks like they are charging from King Salmon and it's probably simpler to go from Homer instead. But maybe worth a call to see what their rates are.

What do you think of taking MREs for food? Or just take a lot of protein bars?

They have a shed set up for cooking and you REALLY appreciate a hot drink and hot meal after hiking around for several hours, especially if it's cool and rainy ... I'd try to take a stove for tea or other hot drinks and at least take freeze-dried meals I could cook.

I would also recommend taking a waterproof tent that won't blow down in high winds ... all our trips have been in early Sept and usually we had a LOT of rain, so a waterproof tent is important. Maybe less rain in July though.

Also breathable rain gear like Gore-Tex or similar. First trip I had non-breathable rain gear and it was miserable, so I sprung for the Gore-Tex. Some trips you are wearing this all day every day.

And of course warm clothes and sleeping bags ... once you add on the camera gear you can see why the 250 lb limit per person is hard to hit
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Old Mar 29th, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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I do see how tough it will be to stay under the weight limit. I've been reading various notes on the Net about McNeil and one person said to take our own drinking water. Now that is really heavy so I'm wondering if that has changed. This will certainly be an experience. I truly appreciate all your info!!
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