3 wk Itinerary - Natl. Parks/Four Corners
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 49
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3 wk Itinerary - Natl. Parks/Four Corners
We are planning our first trip to the Southwest, and are somewhat overwhelmed. I've done a lot of research online, but would like to post our rough itinerary and get some feedback before going much further. I want to get a general sense of whether our route makes sense, if I'm trying to pack too much in or leaving something wonderful out (I reluctantly left out Arches and Canyonlands), etc. Here goes:
Day 1 - fly into Phoenix, drive to Sedona
Day 2 - Sedona
Day 3 - Sedona and Jerome
Day 4 - Drive to Petrified Forest
Day 5 - Petrified Forest, and on to Chinle
Day 6 - Canyon de Chelly
Day 7 - Canyon de Chelly, and drive to Mon. Valley
Day 8 - Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Pk.
Day 9 - Mon. Valley
Day 10 - Drive to Capitol Reef Natl. Park
Day 11 - Capitol Reef
Day 12 - Capitol Reef, Drive to Bryce
Day 13 - Bryce
Day 14 - Bryce
Day 15 - Drive to Lake Powell
Day 16 - Lake Powell
Day 17 - Lake Powell
Day 18 - Drive to Gd. Canyon North Rim
Day 19 - Gd. Canyon
Day 20 - Gd. Canyon
Day 21 - Drive to Hoover Dam and then Las Vegas
Day 22 - Las Vegas
Day 23 - Depart
Just FYI, we are fit and active, but due to an injury aren't able to do really strenuous hiking for long periods, or some outdoor sports. So we want to see and enjoy as much as we can of the parks, but we want to choose parks where we can balance hikes with relaxing and with seeing other sights as well. I also don't want to pack too much in - this already seems like a lot of moving around, but I want to see as much as we can while we're in this area. Any advice re: our plan so far is greatly appreciated - thanks!
Day 1 - fly into Phoenix, drive to Sedona
Day 2 - Sedona
Day 3 - Sedona and Jerome
Day 4 - Drive to Petrified Forest
Day 5 - Petrified Forest, and on to Chinle
Day 6 - Canyon de Chelly
Day 7 - Canyon de Chelly, and drive to Mon. Valley
Day 8 - Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Pk.
Day 9 - Mon. Valley
Day 10 - Drive to Capitol Reef Natl. Park
Day 11 - Capitol Reef
Day 12 - Capitol Reef, Drive to Bryce
Day 13 - Bryce
Day 14 - Bryce
Day 15 - Drive to Lake Powell
Day 16 - Lake Powell
Day 17 - Lake Powell
Day 18 - Drive to Gd. Canyon North Rim
Day 19 - Gd. Canyon
Day 20 - Gd. Canyon
Day 21 - Drive to Hoover Dam and then Las Vegas
Day 22 - Las Vegas
Day 23 - Depart
Just FYI, we are fit and active, but due to an injury aren't able to do really strenuous hiking for long periods, or some outdoor sports. So we want to see and enjoy as much as we can of the parks, but we want to choose parks where we can balance hikes with relaxing and with seeing other sights as well. I also don't want to pack too much in - this already seems like a lot of moving around, but I want to see as much as we can while we're in this area. Any advice re: our plan so far is greatly appreciated - thanks!
#2
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,351
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There will be plenty of others who know far more about the area than I do, but in my experience the Petrified forest is only worth a couple of hours of your time. Seen one tree turned to stone you've seen them all. We went there when we drove rte 66 a few years ago. We followed a short trail (and nearly froze to death - it was March!)and then carried on. I'm glad we went, I enjoyed it, but it won't take up much of your time.
We will be doing a trip of a similar length in May. So far we have a hotel for arrival in Phoenix, and a night at the south rim. But we may be unique in not visiting the Utah parks, while we are there.
We are hoping to really explore New Mexico this trip.
We will be doing a trip of a similar length in May. So far we have a hotel for arrival in Phoenix, and a night at the south rim. But we may be unique in not visiting the Utah parks, while we are there.
We are hoping to really explore New Mexico this trip.
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,204
Likes: 8
Without looking closely at your detail, I'll give you an idea of what I try to do.
I keep one-night lodging to a minimum. I try to not have one-night lodging more than 1 night in a row and definitely not more than 2 nights in a row.
Remember, you are checking out first thing in the morning and not checking in until after 4PM. Since this is a sight-seeing trip and checking in takes time away from the trip, you may not check in until after dark much of the time.
I see a lot of moving around in your itinerary.
For your details that I am familiar with:
While the town of Sedona is not worth the stop (IMO), the setting and surroundings are worth at least 2 days. I went on several easy hikes. Actually I went on many easy hikes but these are the top hikes that I would definitely recommend.
Boynton Canyon Vista (not the complete Boynton Canyon hike) was the best for the time and effort required, Broken Arrow which was most likely the most scenic and Bell Rock Pathway which was very scenic. Fay Canyon was also very nice.
Allow a clear evening for sunset in the Crescent Moon Picnic Area to watch the sun setting on cathedral Rock and its reflection in Oak Creek.
There is one spot where you can really see all this and it's not marked so you have to do some work. Nothing strenuous just trying to line up the Creek with Cathedral Rock and the setting sun behind you.
For Bryce Canyon I would allow one complete day. That's 2 nights.
I'd recommend sunrise (yes, up early) at Bryce Point. After a snack breakfast hike down into the hoodoos consisting of Navajo Loop down and Queen's Garden back up.
Then take a drive on the Scenic Road to Natural Bridge which is really the only viewpoint that's very different once you've seen Bryce Point, Sunset Point (the start of Navajo Loop) and Sunrise Point (the end of Queen's Garden).
I would end the day at Sunset Point as the sun goes down.
Once you are at Lake Powell, I would try to schedule in a few sights just outside of Page on the south side of the lake.
"The Best Dam View" of Glen Canyon Dam that created Lake Powell, Horseshoe Bend that's a hot 3/4 mile flat hike to a 180 degree turn of the Colorado River about 1,000 feet directly below you and the famous Antelope Canyon. Once there, these sights require about 3 1/2 hours and will be the most bang for your time on the entire trip.
That's not to say you won't see other spectacular sights. But for the amount of time spent, effort expended and cost (a total of $26 per person for Antelope Canyon and the others are free) the 3 sights around (not in) Page cannot be beat.
I have not seen the other sights on your list although I have another Utah trip planned for this May that will include Moab (Arches & Canyonlands), Capitol Reef, Escalante area and probably end in Bryce Canyon for several hours as it's on our way back to SLC.
You can see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com
I keep one-night lodging to a minimum. I try to not have one-night lodging more than 1 night in a row and definitely not more than 2 nights in a row.
Remember, you are checking out first thing in the morning and not checking in until after 4PM. Since this is a sight-seeing trip and checking in takes time away from the trip, you may not check in until after dark much of the time.
I see a lot of moving around in your itinerary.
For your details that I am familiar with:
While the town of Sedona is not worth the stop (IMO), the setting and surroundings are worth at least 2 days. I went on several easy hikes. Actually I went on many easy hikes but these are the top hikes that I would definitely recommend.
Boynton Canyon Vista (not the complete Boynton Canyon hike) was the best for the time and effort required, Broken Arrow which was most likely the most scenic and Bell Rock Pathway which was very scenic. Fay Canyon was also very nice.
Allow a clear evening for sunset in the Crescent Moon Picnic Area to watch the sun setting on cathedral Rock and its reflection in Oak Creek.
There is one spot where you can really see all this and it's not marked so you have to do some work. Nothing strenuous just trying to line up the Creek with Cathedral Rock and the setting sun behind you.
For Bryce Canyon I would allow one complete day. That's 2 nights.
I'd recommend sunrise (yes, up early) at Bryce Point. After a snack breakfast hike down into the hoodoos consisting of Navajo Loop down and Queen's Garden back up.
Then take a drive on the Scenic Road to Natural Bridge which is really the only viewpoint that's very different once you've seen Bryce Point, Sunset Point (the start of Navajo Loop) and Sunrise Point (the end of Queen's Garden).
I would end the day at Sunset Point as the sun goes down.
Once you are at Lake Powell, I would try to schedule in a few sights just outside of Page on the south side of the lake.
"The Best Dam View" of Glen Canyon Dam that created Lake Powell, Horseshoe Bend that's a hot 3/4 mile flat hike to a 180 degree turn of the Colorado River about 1,000 feet directly below you and the famous Antelope Canyon. Once there, these sights require about 3 1/2 hours and will be the most bang for your time on the entire trip.
That's not to say you won't see other spectacular sights. But for the amount of time spent, effort expended and cost (a total of $26 per person for Antelope Canyon and the others are free) the 3 sights around (not in) Page cannot be beat.
I have not seen the other sights on your list although I have another Utah trip planned for this May that will include Moab (Arches & Canyonlands), Capitol Reef, Escalante area and probably end in Bryce Canyon for several hours as it's on our way back to SLC.
You can see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com
#4
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 861
Likes: 0
Hi copilot,
I have some suggestions for reworking your itinerary but would like to know what time of year you are planning to go and if you'll have children along. We have no kids so our trips are geared toward photography, moderate hiking, relaxing - we tend to avoid family activities/tourist attractions and gravitate toward less traveled routes.
Since we're pretty familiar with the southwest, there are places on your itinerary that we've been to and would skip, and places you've excluded that are some of our favorities. You ultimately have to decide which sites you'd rather see based on your interests. But I'd change your itinerary a bit as follows:
Day 1 & 2 - Phoenix to Sedona
Day 3 & 4 - South Rim GC
Day 5 & 6 - Page/Lake Powell/Mon Val
Day 7 & 8 - Mesa Verde NP
Day 9 Add extra night to any above
Day 10-13 Moab/Arches/Canyonlands
Day 14 & 15 Torrey/Capitol Reef
Day 16 Boulder, Utah
Day 17 &18 Bryce
Day 19 - 21 Zion
Day 22 LV
Day 23 Home
None of your drives are more than 3.5 hours - most are 2-2.5 hrs and there's no backtracking. We don't enjoy Las Vegas at all and spend no time there. Lake Powell and Monument Valley are more "drive-by's" for us - usually too crowded.
Petrified Forest definitely not worth a special trip out of the way. Your time would be better spent seeing the South Rim since you are so close, instead of going all the way south from Bryce later to the North Rim. Although I love the North Rim, the SR is dramatically different and you can see so much more of the Grand Canyon from it's panoramic view points.
Instead of heading south from Mon Valley, you might consider going to Mesa Verde instead of Canyon de Chelley. The cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde are fascinating. The park is a special place and an easy 3 hr drive to Moab. I'd spend 3 nights in Moab - lots to see and do. Jeep trips, float trips, petroglyphs, Arches, Canyonlands, Dead Horse... Don't miss Moab.
We love Capitol Reef and the town of Torrey. Such a little western gem! And we rarely miss an opportunity to stay in Boulder - it's a beautiful town and we enjoy Boulder Mtn Lodge and Hell's Backbone Grill. Worth a night, for sure (especially if you have no kids along). A few nights at Bryce and Zion are a must. This itinerary gets you time in Moab and Zion which are highlights of the trip that might have been missed.
Would love to hear your thoughts on this itinerary (and when and who will be going).
I have some suggestions for reworking your itinerary but would like to know what time of year you are planning to go and if you'll have children along. We have no kids so our trips are geared toward photography, moderate hiking, relaxing - we tend to avoid family activities/tourist attractions and gravitate toward less traveled routes.
Since we're pretty familiar with the southwest, there are places on your itinerary that we've been to and would skip, and places you've excluded that are some of our favorities. You ultimately have to decide which sites you'd rather see based on your interests. But I'd change your itinerary a bit as follows:
Day 1 & 2 - Phoenix to Sedona
Day 3 & 4 - South Rim GC
Day 5 & 6 - Page/Lake Powell/Mon Val
Day 7 & 8 - Mesa Verde NP
Day 9 Add extra night to any above
Day 10-13 Moab/Arches/Canyonlands
Day 14 & 15 Torrey/Capitol Reef
Day 16 Boulder, Utah
Day 17 &18 Bryce
Day 19 - 21 Zion
Day 22 LV
Day 23 Home
None of your drives are more than 3.5 hours - most are 2-2.5 hrs and there's no backtracking. We don't enjoy Las Vegas at all and spend no time there. Lake Powell and Monument Valley are more "drive-by's" for us - usually too crowded.
Petrified Forest definitely not worth a special trip out of the way. Your time would be better spent seeing the South Rim since you are so close, instead of going all the way south from Bryce later to the North Rim. Although I love the North Rim, the SR is dramatically different and you can see so much more of the Grand Canyon from it's panoramic view points.
Instead of heading south from Mon Valley, you might consider going to Mesa Verde instead of Canyon de Chelley. The cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde are fascinating. The park is a special place and an easy 3 hr drive to Moab. I'd spend 3 nights in Moab - lots to see and do. Jeep trips, float trips, petroglyphs, Arches, Canyonlands, Dead Horse... Don't miss Moab.
We love Capitol Reef and the town of Torrey. Such a little western gem! And we rarely miss an opportunity to stay in Boulder - it's a beautiful town and we enjoy Boulder Mtn Lodge and Hell's Backbone Grill. Worth a night, for sure (especially if you have no kids along). A few nights at Bryce and Zion are a must. This itinerary gets you time in Moab and Zion which are highlights of the trip that might have been missed.
Would love to hear your thoughts on this itinerary (and when and who will be going).
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
copilot,
I had the same thoughts as sharondi. I've been to all your destinations except Canyon de Chelly, but I have been to Mesa Verde.
I would recommend going with sharondi's itinerary. I would skip Petrified Forest, breeze through Sedona and Monument Valley. Make time for the very best - Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Boulder, Bryce and Zion. Do GC. I'm another who cannot stand LV and only stop there for gas.
What do you plan to do at Lake Powell? It's awesome, but the best is renting a boat and water toys and exploring!
I had the same thoughts as sharondi. I've been to all your destinations except Canyon de Chelly, but I have been to Mesa Verde.
I would recommend going with sharondi's itinerary. I would skip Petrified Forest, breeze through Sedona and Monument Valley. Make time for the very best - Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Boulder, Bryce and Zion. Do GC. I'm another who cannot stand LV and only stop there for gas.
What do you plan to do at Lake Powell? It's awesome, but the best is renting a boat and water toys and exploring!
#7
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Couple of suggestions. Since you plan on going to so many national parks get an America the Beautiful pass for $80 at your first stop or through USGS.gov or local AAA office. Most parks now charge $25 each. Good for entrance fees only at all national parks, monuments, BLM, forest service and Bureau of Reclaimation sites. Good for entire car load for calendar year. If you plan on stopping at trailheads in Oak Creek Canyon (surrounds Sedona) also good here. There are some wonder rock art sites near Sedona including Palatki & Honanki Ruins and V-Bar-V Heritage sites where pass is also good.
Allow wait time to get the shuttle in Grand Canyon and Bryce. You can still drive your car but parking is difficult to impossible to find at times.
If you want to get off the "tourist" roads in Canyon de Chelly and Monument Valley you need to get a local guide to take you in their 4x4. Both of these parks are especially photogenic at sunrise and set.
If you plan on going to either upper or lower Antelope Canyon outside of Page 11-2pm is the best time for photos. You will need either a tripod or high iso setting to get photos. Do not use a flash as this will wipe out the lighting coming in from the top. Do not show any of the sky in the photos.
It can get quite windy at Horseshoe Bend. If you have children be advised there are no barriers and the drop to river is considerable.
Hope you are planning on taking UT-12 to Capitol Reef. It is a spectacular road. Stop in Escalante at the Interagency visitor center on the edge of town. They have great information on the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument you will be drying through. Might want to take a half day trip to Calf Creek to the water fall and petroglyphs.
This is all high desert country. Drink plenty of water even if you don't feel thirsty.
Allow wait time to get the shuttle in Grand Canyon and Bryce. You can still drive your car but parking is difficult to impossible to find at times.
If you want to get off the "tourist" roads in Canyon de Chelly and Monument Valley you need to get a local guide to take you in their 4x4. Both of these parks are especially photogenic at sunrise and set.
If you plan on going to either upper or lower Antelope Canyon outside of Page 11-2pm is the best time for photos. You will need either a tripod or high iso setting to get photos. Do not use a flash as this will wipe out the lighting coming in from the top. Do not show any of the sky in the photos.
It can get quite windy at Horseshoe Bend. If you have children be advised there are no barriers and the drop to river is considerable.
Hope you are planning on taking UT-12 to Capitol Reef. It is a spectacular road. Stop in Escalante at the Interagency visitor center on the edge of town. They have great information on the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument you will be drying through. Might want to take a half day trip to Calf Creek to the water fall and petroglyphs.
This is all high desert country. Drink plenty of water even if you don't feel thirsty.
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#8
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,443
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I wouldn't skip Petrified Forest, but I would plan on spending no more than a couple of hours there. It would be a shame to miss Mesa Verde on this trip. We visited Arches last year and really loved it. It is a very manageable somewhat smaller park. You really can't go wrong, there is a lot to see in southern Utah. Check out Valley of the Gods for unusual lodging near Monument Valley. We haven't been there, but are trying it in May.
#9
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 49
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You guys are wonderful - I can't believe I got so many responses so soon. In answer to some of your questions, and to provide some background...we're traveling alone (no kids), and the trip will be in June. We have been stationed overseas for several years, and just found out we'll have this opportunity for a 3-week trip. It's a great opportunity, and we've never been out west, so want to take advantage of it, but I generally plan my trips out months and months ahead; this one came up very suddenly. To be honest, I'm panicked; I keep reading that hotels have to be booked so far out, and June isn't the best month to be there b/c of the heat and the crowds of tourists, and at the moment I have very little time to plan the trip, so I cobbed together the itinerary quickly so I could try and find lodging. That's never been my method in the past, but the time crunch has got me worried. I will take all your suggestions and rework things a bit. I'm torn between wanting to see it all, and not wanting to be on the road every day; we want to (and need to) relax a little bit. Also, hubby can't do really strenuous hikes, so I thought by spending a few days in each place, that would allow some down time. But I think we would regret missing some of the places you mentioned, like Moab, Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde. My husband had asked specifically to see the Petrified Forest, and to water-ski (at Lake Powell maybe?) so that was the rationale there. And budget-wise, we are on a budget for this trip...would prefer to stay in simple no-frills hotels (under $100/nt. when possible) so that we can spend $ on guides, excursions, etc. when we want to. Thanks so much for your patience; let me take another look and I will re-post.
#10
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
right outside the Painted Desert NP and heading towards, Holbrook, AZ is a really great free museum...you will see a bunch of huge fake dinosaurs, enter there....the museum is free and covers an extensive collection of fossils, native American artifacts, sell you all sorts of gems and petrified rocks as well as historical information of that region...like I said the museum is free but the short tour thru the park is well worth the small admission fee...while your in the region, stop at the Meteorite Crater, it too is worth the small admission fee....have a safe and fun trip..
#11
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
If the weather permits, clear sky, you MUST go outside Bryce Canyon at night and view the night sky. It is an unforgettable experience. My wife dragged me out of bed after hiking all day in Zion to the most magnificent sky I have ever seen, I will never forget it.
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
If you get up early, you can drive from Sedona to Canyon de Chelly and do some hiking in the Petrified forest without having to spend the night in the area. Do a few of the hikes because the area is beautiful!
Do one of the guided tours while in Canyon de Chelly!
If you don't plan on hiking down into the canyon, then you will really only need two nights at the N. Rim. If it were the S. rim, then I could see longer.
Now that I've saved you a couple of nights, put Zion National Park in the itinerary after the N. Rim of the Grand Canyon. Great easy hikes and a short 3 hour drive to Las Vegas. Trust me..you will be glad you added it!
Utahtea
Do one of the guided tours while in Canyon de Chelly!
If you don't plan on hiking down into the canyon, then you will really only need two nights at the N. Rim. If it were the S. rim, then I could see longer.
Now that I've saved you a couple of nights, put Zion National Park in the itinerary after the N. Rim of the Grand Canyon. Great easy hikes and a short 3 hour drive to Las Vegas. Trust me..you will be glad you added it!
Utahtea
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 670
Likes: 0
I think there are too many days planned in Monument Valley, Lake Powell & Canyon De Chelley.
1 day in each canyon is enough because you will be on a Navajo guided tour. There is nothing else to see nearby CDC. After MV, you could go up to Mexican Hat, Goosenecks State Park, Moki Dugway & Valley of the Gods.
2 days in the Lake Powell area: boat ride on the lake, Dam tour, hiking in the area includes "Best Dam View" & Horseshoe Bend. Don't miss a guided tour of the Upper Antelope Slots Canyon (also Navajo).
Sorry if my post was repetitive, I didn't read all the others.
1 day in each canyon is enough because you will be on a Navajo guided tour. There is nothing else to see nearby CDC. After MV, you could go up to Mexican Hat, Goosenecks State Park, Moki Dugway & Valley of the Gods.
2 days in the Lake Powell area: boat ride on the lake, Dam tour, hiking in the area includes "Best Dam View" & Horseshoe Bend. Don't miss a guided tour of the Upper Antelope Slots Canyon (also Navajo).
Sorry if my post was repetitive, I didn't read all the others.
#14
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I agree about the Petrified Forest. It is pretty, but I wouldn't go out of my way to see it. Page is nice if you are a real water rec person. Mesa Verde is wonderful. Spend two nights if you can because it can be difficult to book tours of the ruins, and you should do that. My adult daughter could accomplish these tours with an ankle injured and in a boot. DO see the Canyon De Chelley! Take a tour. It is worth every cent. We stayed at the Holiday Inn there and loved it.
#15
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
I agree that you have a little too much time planned for Monument Valley. This was tops on my list of "things to see in the Southwest", but you really only need about a half day there, on the way to or from somewhere else.
There is a self-guided tour along a dirt road that will take you to all the formations in about 2 hours. Unless you're really into photography, you won't need much more time there.
Having said that, it's DEFINITELY worth seeing, in my opinion. Also, the drive from there to Capitol Reef involves a breathtaking drive on the switchbacks of the Mokee Dugway. You'll want to make sure to do this part of the drive during daylight hours.
There is a self-guided tour along a dirt road that will take you to all the formations in about 2 hours. Unless you're really into photography, you won't need much more time there.
Having said that, it's DEFINITELY worth seeing, in my opinion. Also, the drive from there to Capitol Reef involves a breathtaking drive on the switchbacks of the Mokee Dugway. You'll want to make sure to do this part of the drive during daylight hours.
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