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Thames Valley - need last stop before Heathrow

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Old Nov 28th, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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Thames Valley - need last stop before Heathrow

Hi - have finished planning a ten-day driving trip around the south of England in May (starting in Canterbury, driving counter-clockwise south of London, to Salisbury, Bath, etc...) we're spending the previous night in Chipping Campden but would like to spend our last night in a town a little closer to Heathrow airport . Have considered Oxford, St. Albans, and even Windsor (too touristy?) but am open to suggestions as to any "can't miss destinations."

Thanks!
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Old Nov 28th, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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If you haven't been to Oxford, it's definitely a "don't miss" but it's also definitely not some place to drive IN so that might not work. I assume you have a car to be turned in at LHR. There are ways to stay right outside Oxford and catch a bus into town to walk around. Or maybe drive straight to someplace in town and park. There are others on the Forum with much more germaine info about driving in/through/into Oxford if that's the place you pick. (We stayed on the east side of Oxford, as we were coming FROM LHR with our rental car, parked in the B&B lot and caught a bus across the street. That's why I don't have any recommendations for specific lodging coming from the west as you will.)

All this to say--I'd try to see Oxford.
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Old Nov 28th, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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St Albans is fine, but it's a horrid detour way, way, way away from the Chipping Campden-Heathrow road, involving two separate 25 mile (= easily up to an hour, and possibly more) drives along Europe's busiest, and most perpetually "improved" road, even before you get into other side drives.

Nothing on earth is a "must see", whatever that absurd phrase is meant to mean. But there's nothing between Chipping Campden and Heathrow that rivals Oxford or Windsor as a place to see (I drive more or less the route several times a week). Both are "touristy" if you mean lots of tourists, like you, visit them: neither are pointless shlock (like, say, the Champs Elysées or Barcelona's Ramblas)

There's a great deal to see in Oxford, so I'd give it rather more than just arriving at 6 pm and leaving early the following morning. One solution to the parking (or more importantly, navigation) problem in central Oxford is to dump the car in Oxford, overnight there, then get the bus. Every 20-30 mins: between 0700-0830, allow 2 hrs from the centre (it's wise to allow rather more by car) or 90 mins from the Thornhill P+R, to T1/3. 30 mins less after about 0900: 15 min less still to T5, 15 min more to T4
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Old Nov 30th, 2011 | 05:07 AM
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Windsor IMO is a gem in spite of the torrent of tourists who come just for Windsor Castle - most neglect this thriving regional town that also has the Eton component just across at this point a very tranquil Thames. A thriving pedestrian shopping area and after the Castle thumping crowd is gone a typical regional town. I would strongly consider Windsor, especially because of its close proximity to Heathrow.
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Old Nov 30th, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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I like the smaller towns along the Thames between Oxford and Windsor. Henley and Marlow come to mind and the relationship these smaller places still have with the river and local walks along the river (Thames Path) and in the countryside. I love Oxford too but prefer the atmosphere of the smaller riverside towns with a stay in an historic small hotel or B&B.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 03:21 AM
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I'd second what joannay wrote. The section of the Thames around Henley and Marlow is very attractive and convenient for LHR.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 03:30 AM
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The French Horn in Sonning-on-Thames is a very good restaurant in a lovely setting. It also has rooms, which I haven't seen. Not too far outside reading. I also like Windsor.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 04:17 AM
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Cookham would be another nice Thames-side smaller town along with Marlow - and if you arrive early enough one of the classic Thames-side walks on footpaths goes the few miles between Cookham and Marlow.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 06:07 AM
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By absolutely no stretch of the imagination can any of these prettyish London suburbs be described as "can't miss".

All pleasant enough for a day out if you live in London and can't be bothered driving into the countryside. But compared to the UNESCO World Heritage sites the countryside west of London is stuffed with, of near-zero interest. The oldest thing in any of them, for example, is the waiting staff at the French Horn, and the only thing of note that ever happens in any of them is the Henley Regatta - the one sporting event on the planet more boring than motor races (even American "football"'s more fun). Well, there was the interminable argument about turning the dead Henley cinema into a Waitrose, and Dusty Springfield's grave's there. But after that...

You'd do better off staying the extra night at Chipping Campden. But skipping Oxford, Windsor or Eton for a night in Cookham?

As good a definition of "deranged" as you'll encounter outside the Iranian parliament.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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A moment please to ponder, who sounds deranged, flanneruk above in typical mode or the experience of the thoughtful 4 above him/her?

Sometimes the clearest point of view is not the jaded resident one but that from other travelers who have been to a place and know how it is to be there as a visitor. Were I inclined to use phrases like "can't miss" or "must see" I would, indeed, include the Thames-side towns mentioned and will be going straight back there for more walking along the river soon.

I'm now hoping to be too small a fish to land on the flanner's hit list although, pondering again, that might be everyone else with a point of view on UK travel.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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that flimflam hit list is pretty long and it includes character assassination as well so be careful or trod on and stand up to bullies!
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the heads up, PalenQ, although after a few months around here it was pretty clear already. I say we stand up and I think you may think so too. Maybe it's a group activity.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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DGSP - well, there you have it, a typically unanimous recommendation from fodorites!

in the blue corner, flanner who think's you'd be mad to miss out on the wonders of Oxford and windsor, and in the red, advocates for lesser delights such as Marlow and Henley.

do you want to see a fabulous building [or in Oxford's case buildings] or have a gentle wind-down by the river? Do you want to battle through hundreds of other tourists, or endure a load of braying locals?

the decision is yours.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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I'd say that's a very reasonable assessment. I'd maybe use a word like "subtler" or "quieter" rather than "lesser" but I'm not complaining.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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I'd maybe use a word like "subtler" or "quieter" rather than "lesser" but I'm not complaining.>>

"lesser" in the sense that they are not "great" sights like Windsor Castle or the Oxford Colleges. but still interesting and worthwhile - and sometimes more desirable.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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I've been in every one of the Thames-side towns/villages. And stayed in several -- including tying up for the night while boating down the river a few times.

Not a one is a 'destination'- all are pleasant in their own ways. Your, choice. Do you want WOW sites (like Oxford or the castle) or more low key/kick back diversions?

But Chipping Campden has more going for it than most any of the riverside places.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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Cookham's got the Stanley Spencer gallery/museum - not for everyone, I admit, but of interest in its way:
http://www.stanleyspencer.org.uk/

And Henley's got the River and Rowing Museum: http://www.rrm.co.uk/exhibitions.aspx
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Old Dec 2nd, 2011 | 08:01 AM
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But Chipping Campden has more going for it than most any of the riverside places>

Like what? cozier tea shops, spiffy tourist shops, more upscale locals?

more going for it is quite a subjective term - perhaps just a Thames-side town has romance to Americans if not to jaded locals.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2011 | 08:37 AM
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PalenQ, again, thanks. What I like about the smaller towns along the Thames is that they aren't tourist enclaves. Or maybe that's the definition of "more going for it" - more tourists and the resulting change in the nature of a town. I prefer a place that feels like the residents outnumber the tourists and that's what I found during my walks along the Thames Path.

I visited the Stanley Spencer Gallery mentioned above, was taken by a local friend. It was abundantly clear that the place is supported by the people who live in the small community and the feel of the gallery benefits hugely from that fact. It's not geared just to the tourist trade but lovingly supported by the town, who in the case of older residents knew the artist. That would be my definition in part of "more going for it."
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