Thanks Revulgo, we visited Reina Sofia on last trip and also The Thyssen, so skipped those to see some different things like Museo Lazaro Galdiano, Museo del Romanticismo and Palacio de Liria. Hope we can make it back.

Thank you Revulgo,

on my first visit to Madrid, Guernica was not yet in a museum. It was displayed in a place (( don’t remember)
that didn't seem safe for such a priceless painting.
Looking forward to revisiting now renovated Sorolla.
Unfortunately, I will not be in Madrid to see Flamenco Real but I will check Sara Baras.
I often find interesting performances at Teatros del Canal, one of my favourite venues in Madrid.

In addition,

The History of Madrid Museum is little known to visitors. Its highlight is the incredible scale model of Madrid built by a military crew in 1830. It has an extraordinary level of detail; it's said that if you see a house with four windows, it's because there really was a house with four windows on that spot. It's like flying over Madrid in 1830.

For those who don't live in Madrid, it's difficult to recognize some places in the city center because the Gran Vía didn't yet exist, and the Puerta del Sol had a different shape and was smaller. The Plaza de Oriente appears as an empty space because the previous buildings had been demolished, and the plaza itself hadn't yet been built.

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-...eo-de-historia

If I may, I would add Museo Naval to the list. It is extraordinary.
In October , I saw an exhibit of Robert Capa’s photographs including the famous/ infamous one taken during the Civil War.

Centro Danza Matadero - CDM is a public space dedicated exclusively to dance, in all its disciplines: flamenco, Spanish, urban, classical and contemporary. Its artistic director María Pagés is one of the most internationally renowned Spanish dancers and choreographers.
https://www.centrodanzamatadero.es/en

thank you so much for the link. Apologies to Tom for intruding on his wonderful report.
I saw Maria Pagés some 10 ago in “Yo, Carmen” at TDC. Unforgettable!

Tom, I really enjoyed reading about your last day in Madrid! The Museo Romanticismo is beautiful. The galleries are just as impressive as the paintings. I love all the different colored walls. And the House of Alba is gorgeous, too. That crypt is outstanding. I've never seen a crypt like that. What's so nice about re-visiting cities is that you are able to visit lesser-known museums, churches, etc. that you most likely did not see on the first trip. Most people concentrate on the highlights during their first visits.

Looking forward to Burgos, a place I know nothing about.

Picking up a car at the Madrid Airport, we had a momentary rental car scare (not our last one) on the way to Burgos. In Burgos, we got a late start (see story), but were able to go see a retirement home for magnificent altarpieces, have time to meander through the town’s lovely paseos along the riverside, check out its magnificent cathedral and partake in yet another citywide party. (Story in link below)
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...-burgos-bound/














Day Seven: An Important Photo, Damn Is This Car Electric?, No Parking, Retirement Home for Altarpieces, Promenading Along The Paseo, A “Gothic Treasure,” Stairway To Heaven, El Cid’s Final Resting Place, It’s A Marathon Not A Sprint, Flood Zone, Party Time In Burgos, Taking It On The Lamb and “It Looks Like Spun Sugar!”

Promptly at 6:30 a.m. we bid “adios” to Room Mate Alba as the taxi whisked us off to the Madrid airport where we’d pick up our rental car. Although it was supposed to be open at 7 a.m., the Hertz office in the terminal was locked up tight. Fortunately a very helpful security guard directed us to the office located in the parking area.

As we waited in line, Tracy snapped a photo that would be invaluable when we returned the car. After picking up the keys, she also took some important photos that would save us from incurring more charges when we dropped the car, which happened to be a black, mid-size Mercedes (foreshadowing alert).

It’s an easy 2 1/2 hour drive north to Burgos, although when it comes to rental cars on vacation, the word “easy” is never in the vernacular. Sure enough, about halfway into our drive, Tracy was glancing at the display screen which was larger than my 1980s TV set, and suddenly she exclaimed, “Oh my God! a light just came on saying we need to charge the car soon. Is this car electric?”

My heart, which sadly is always in AFib these days, skipped 78 beats.

Her question raised two major red flags. Since we have never owned an electric car (although we do have an elderly Prius hybrid), we had no idea how to charge a fully electric vehicle, much less know how to find the place to charge between Madrid and Burgos. As soon as possible, we pulled into a service station, where to our great relief, we saw that the car had a gas tank. Knowing now that we had a plug-in hybrid, that would be the end of our rental car problems for the rest of the trip (or at least an hour).

The tower of the Burgos Cathedral could be viewed from the highway, and soon we were at a scenic tree-lined roundabout and heading into town for our stay at AC Burgos Hotel. There was a loading zone where we could park to drop our bags and check in.

The hotel has underground parking, but I had read the parking garage was quite a challenge. We asked the desk person, and she suggested we take a look before attempting to park. I wish we had taken photos, but once inside the garage we realized that unless we had a clown car, there would be no way for us to drive to the lower parking levels without scraping the car, because instead of a circular ramp, it had nearly 90 degree angles at every turn. At this moment Tracy reminded me that Maribel’s husband Philip had warned us that they had taken scraped the paint off their car while parking here.

Back to the front desk for Plan B, where we learned we could park on the street if we could find a spot, and also that there was a public parking lot nearby if all the street parking was taken (it was), so we drove to the lot about 1/4 mile away and went inside. We quickly decided our car was way too big for this lot as the spaces were so narrow that had we found an empty one, Tracy and I would have been wedged into the car for all of eternity had someone parked next to us. (Plus the garage had the same ramps as our hotel). We carefully navigated through the lot and out the exit.

We had arrived in Burgos a little after ten, and by now it was almost 11. We went in search of street parking. And we went looking … and looking … and looking. There was not an open parking space within a one mile radius of searching, and I say that with confidence because for the better (or worse) part of the next hour we did nonstop searching.

Finally, we saw a car pull out of a space adjacent to the Paseo de la Audiencia not far from our hotel. We paid the meter and learned at the hotel we would not have to pay anymore for the weekend, because parking after 2 p.m. through the weekend was free.

It was another glorious blue sky day, so although two hours later than I’d hoped, it was time to go explore Burgos.

We passed by the Church-Convent of the Salesas, also known as the Monastery of the Visitation.

Our plan was to first visit Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari de Burgos, which was supposed to close at 1 p.m. We climbed the flight of steps from Plaza de Santa María. It was a few minutes after noon when we strolled in, and the look we received upon entering clearly said we should not be there. That’s because a wedding was about to take place, and the church had closed early. At least we got a view of the cathedral from the steps.

Since Burgos is located along the The Camino Francés (French Way), which is probably the most popular trek along the Camino de Santiago, we knew there would be no shortage of religious sights here and in our next stop, León. We trekked up to
Iglesia de San Esteban/Museo del Retablo, or as Tracy dubbed it “The Neon Museum for Altarpieces,” referring to our visit to the Neon Museum in Las Vegas which is the final resting place of neon signs (and a must-see if you are in Vegas).

The 13th/14th century Iglesia de San Esteban no longer serves as a functioning church. It is literally a retirement home for old altarpieces, taking in and restoring many from the thousands of churches surrounding the Diocese of Burgos. Apparently, Burgos “possesses more religious monuments than any other Spanish diocese …” (Truth be told, by the end of this trip, it had started to feel like we had seen them all!)

It is unique, because it focuses mainly on altarpieces from the 15th-18th centuries, making it the only museum of this type in the entire country.

Although, you could find a wooden tomb like this one from the Monastery of Vilena or an old painting along the route.

The restoration of these pieces, some seven centuries, old is remarkable. The top floor of includes biographical information on the stone artisan, Andres Martinez Abelenda, who repairs and restores the marble and stoneworks.

One of its most notable pieces is the 16th century Retablo San Mamés. From its website, “It is the main altarpiece of the parish church of Padrones de Bureba, from where it had to be dismantled due to the severe deterioration of its structure, which could barely remain standing, and transferred to the diocesan storage facility awaiting treatment before its reassembly.”

You get a great view from above …

.. and below.

There are dozens more, but I’m sure you get the picture. One of the saints on one of the last pieces showed us (and that guy) off.

We walked outside, and then along the tree-shaded Paseo de la Audiencia …

… toward the medieval stone Puente de Santa Maria, which has undergone many iterations throughout history thanks to the numerous floods of the Arlanzón River (more on that later) that have plagued Burgos. It is known as “The Gateway To Burgos.”

At one time Burgos was a walled city, but today there are few remnants. However, when you enter this area from the bridge you see the massive Arco de Santa Maria. Constructed during the mid-1500s, the arch got a facelift thanks to Carlos V. The faces on the façade include Carlos V, El Cid and some of the civic leaders who helped get the arch constructed.

Heading further, we were now on the tree shaded Paseo del Espolón lined with shops and cafes. We stopped into one that seemed to be popular with locals for a late lunch.

After lunch, Tracy and I headed toward the Catedral de Burgos, which has been deemed a Unesco Heritage Site. Called “a masterpiece of Gothic architecture,” it is the third largest cathedral in Spain after the ones in Sevilla and Toledo.

We gained admittance through the Puerta del Perdón doorway, complete with Castilian king statues …

… and a statue of Bishop Mauricio, an advisor to King Ferdinand III of Castile, and the person who started the construction of the cathedral way back in the 1200s.

Once inside, we admired the rose window.

The side naves contain no less than 19 chapels, including the Capilla de la Visitación, home to the burial place of Alonso de Cartagena, a “Roman Catholic bishop, diplomat, historian and writer of Renaissance Spain.”

Capilla de San Enrique is, like most of the chapels, quite ornate. This chapel also contains a 1670s organ that I somehow overlooked.

As we strolled through this vast cathedral, things began looking up.

Passing by the tomb of Archbishop Manuel de Castro Alonso and the Rococo altarpiece of the Chapel of San Juan de Sahagún, which honors the man who was a Spanish Augustinian friar and preacher.

The Capilla Santa Anna was constructed between 1477 and 1488 and features the Tree of Jesse. It contains the tomb of the bishop who commissioned it.

The 1524 tomb of effigy of Gonzalo Díez de Lerma, who was a canon of the Burgos Cathedral, could be found in the Capilla de la Presentación.

The Escolera Dorada (Golden Stairway) was inspired by Renaissance models of Bramante and Michelangelo, with the top resembling a grand pulpit. Fun fact: This staircase served as a model for the grand staircase of the Paris Opera House.

The ornate choir is where they sing to high heavens.

The elaborate altarpiece of the Chapel of Nativity combines with a cool ceiling.

Inside the Capilla de los Condestables, there were tomb effigies of chapel founders Pedro Fernández de Velasco, 2nd Count of Haro and Constable of Castile, and his wife, Mencía de Figueroa.

The star-shaped vault is what they get to gaze upon every day.

Speaking of star-vault, the star vault ceiling in the Chapter House wasn’t too shabby, either.

We were nearing the end of our cathedral journey …

… when we came upon the Main Sacristy.

The Cloister was showing off some recently restored tapestries.

Right before leaving we caught a glimpse of a statue of Santiago Matamoros (Saint James the Moor-slayer), who was showing no mercy on his enemies. Here’s an interesting story from Camino Times Two that adds some insight on the statue. https://caminotimestwo.com/2017/09/1...st-millennium/

Finally, although we didn’t get a photo of El Cid’s final resting place (lots of people waiting … not worth the wait), we did get a photo of his historic iron-bound, wooden chest that dates back more than 1,000 years. It was used to store valuable documents and records within the cathedral.

Tracy went back to the hotel for a little shut-eye, while I meandered around the Paseo del Espolón.

Then I walked over to Plaza Mayor which was pretty quiet for a Saturday afternoon, I thought. Old Carlos III didn’t have much company, so I thought I’d go join Tracy for a power nap before heading out for the evening.

A little before five, the streets were almost empty …

… however less than two hours later, when we returned, they were empty no more, as crowds surged from the area around the cathedral.

On the Paseo del Espolón, people were gathered under the plane trees near El Monumento de los Cuatro Reyes (Monument of the Four Kings), which has statues of Charles III, Wamba (King of the Visogoths), Alfonso VI, and Ferdinand I.

Over to Plaza Mayor, there were tons of people in a festive mood.

Had they just been waiting for us to take a nap?

No, it was part of the Burgos Ultra Stage Race: The Way of Legends, which is actually a six day event.

We threaded through an alleyway full of people congregating for tapas and drinks.

Hey, that’s Pancho’s. We’re eating there tomorrow.

Back out on Plaza Mayor, crowds of people including children and dogs were enjoying the pleasant evening (rain was expected tomorrow).

I posed near columns showing the flooding in this area in 1874 and 1930.

No floods tonight. The bandstand was ready and people were sitting at outdoor cafes soaking in the atmosphere.

Paseo del Espolón runs directly into Teatro Principal de Burgos, which holds a variety of cultural events, plays and concerts throughout the year.

Tonight Riviera inside the theater also hosted a variety of delectable looking tapas …

… and vino. Salud!

Some of the runners were heading for home.

It was coming up on 8:30, and we had dinner reservations. We walked past the statue of El Cid, built in the 1950s. El Cid was an 11th-century Castilian knight and national hero of Spain, plus he looked nothing like Charlton Heston.

As people milled about outside we walked into the historic Restaurante Casa Ojeda, which has been a Burgos staple since 1912. The downstairs bar which serves tapas was packed but …

the large upstairs dining room was, of course, nearly empty as the early Americans showed up for dinner. That changed quickly.

We started with what now is one of my all-time favorite soups, Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup).

Tracy had a steak with sherry sauce.

I opted for the Burgalese specialty, roast suckling lamb. I know this is a delicacy with its tender meat and crispy skin, and it tasted fine, however I prefer a grilled lamb chop. Also, as we discovered throughout this trip, there is a distinct lack of vegetable choices on menus. And for me to say that is quite something. After returning home we learned that vegetables are more prominent in home cooking, while eating out is reserved mainly for meat-focused menus.

I loved their “famous” dessert, the “Renowned Puff Pastry Cake” sprinkled with crispy candy pearls. So much so that Tracy took a series of photos of me cleaning the plate.

As we departed close to 11 pm, the downstairs section was full of energy and the party was still going on. Ah, to be young again.

We returned to our hotel under a gorgeous black velvet sky, which made the cathedral pop so much that Tracy thought it “looked like it was made from spun sugar.”

Tomorrow would start with another Spanish-only tour at the magnificent Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas, where one didn’t need to know the language to be dazzled. Strolling through Burgos after our tour we decided this looked like a town we could live in. Then we’d head a long way out of town to see the mausoleum of King John II and Queen Isabel of Portugal (Cartuja de Miraflores),complete with some of the most gorgeous frescoes and murals we’ve ever seen. On a rainy night, our dinner started off a little uneven, but eventually turned into a really fun dining experience.

Day Eight - Red Skies In The Morning…, Why Didn’t I Take That Extra Semester Of Spanish?, My Kind Of Town, A Feast For The Senses, The Helpful Attendant, Stiffed, Chocolate & Olive Oil, Burgos In The Rain, None Shall Pass and A Change Of Attitude

I can totally relate to rental car induced stress. I've had all kinds of lights going off over the years : service due reminders, tyre pressure system resets, even an unfastened rear seat belt causing an incomprehensible warning light on the dash.... somehow all these surprises surface only after you've left the rental pickup depot and hit the road!

What a wonderful day you had in Burgos! The city looks beautiful! The hotel's parking garage sounds very stressful. I love the "retirement home for altarpieces" photos. They are so opulent. The Cathedral of Burgos is gorgeous, and the shrimp tapas look so delicious.

OK, I want to hear the rest of the story on the car. I've got an electric rental story for you.

My cousin, who also lives in Wichita Falls and so, flies out of DFW, recently went on a five week trip to the Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. He didn't want to pay to park his car at DFW for five weeks, so he figured two one way rentals would be cheaper. He picked up his car just before lunch, and was meeting me for lunch before heading to the airport and told me he wasn't sure how to start his car, and wanted me to take a look. It was only when I looked inside that we determined that the luxury BMW he'd been given (as a free upgrade ) was actually a fully electric vehicle. There's probably an 80 mile stretch on the drive to DFW with no charging facilities, so he was nervous about it, but made it to DFW. So, next time you get a "free" upgrade at an out of the way rental office, you might want to think twice about taking it. I can only imagine the clerks at the rental car office in Wichita Falls had a good laugh about how they got someone to ferry that all electric BMW back to DFW, because no one would rent that car locally (there being almost no place in town to charge it).

I stayed at AC in Burgos for 2 nights last spring…luckily , I took a train from Madrid.
I found the town very charming .

When in Burgos, I usually take the opportunity to eat a tapa that you don't usually find in Madrid: "morro rebozado" (thin slice of battered cow snout). Head to Los Herreros on Calle San Lorenzo, the classic "tapas street" in town.

Two great spots to visit on a rainy day in Burgos. Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas and Cartuja de Miraflores. (With photos in link ... without below photos)

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ies-of-burgos/











Chapter Eight: Marvelous Monasteries Of Burgos

Day Eight - Red Skies In The Morning…, Why Didn’t I Take That Extra Semester Of Spanish?, My Kind Of Town, A Feast For The Senses, The Helpful Attendant, Stiffed, Chocolate & Olive Oil, Burgos In The Rain, None Shall Pass and A Change Of Attitude

There’s nothing quite like a beautiful sunrise, especially when it doesn’t happen until 8:30 am.

After a great night’s sleep we awoke to this view out our hotel window. Of course there’s the old adage, “Red sky in the morning, sailor's warning.” Sure enough, just as we were prepared to walk 30 minutes to our first destination, the skies opened up. Luckily, there was a taxi nearby and we were whisked to Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1187 by the power couple of Alfonso VIII of Castile and Eleanor of Plantagenet (daughter of Henry II of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine). We had scheduled a 10:40 tour that once again was only in Spanish.

Thanks to a terrific tour guide, she brought this place to life even for the only two non-speaking Spanish people on the tour. It also helped that there were placards in English describing some of the more important aspects of the monastery. Just like the previous day, don’t miss the altarpieces.

In the church, the Main Altar dates from the 17th century, with the baroque organ looming above the stalls.

Nearby was a very cool fresco painted in 1594 entitled Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, which took place in 1212. Below the fresco are portraits of Alfonso and Eleanor. When Alfonso died in 1214, his wife of 42 years, consumed in grief, passed away just a few weeks later.

We hit the Aisle of Saint Catherine. At the end of the 12th-century the monastery was dedicated as a Royal Burial Chamber. This area contains 16 royal tombs.

In the choir is the double sarcophagus of Alfonso and Eleanor decorated with heraldic motifs. (We were fortunate in that the guard here was once again lenient in letting us linger to take photos once the room was empty).

One more altarpiece …

…and we headed toward the Chapter House, with its paintings of many of the monarchs.

The columns and stained glass stood out.

Virgen de la Merced con la familia de los Reyes Católicos by Diego de la Cruz is one of the Chapter House treasures.

Las Claustrillas (Small Cloister) is one of the oldest pieces in the monastery.

As the tour was nearing the end we stepped inside the Chapel Of The Assumption, dating to the late 12th-century. This is where Alfonso and Eleanor were originally laid to rest in 1214 until 1279 when they got their tomb upgrade.

The Saint James Chapel has a cool Mudéjar high ceiling panel …

… along with the saint himself brandishing his sword.

We checked out what we think was the Kitchen Garden (maybe we can sponsor it and call it MaiTai Tracy’s Kitchen Garden).

This very interesting (even for non-Spanish speakers) tour lasted about 70 minutes. Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas is an important stop along the Camino de Santiago (and especially its most traveled route, the 780 km Camino Francés). We know people who have walked a portion of the Camino, and they say it is really a fabulous experience.

We planned to grab a cab to our next destination, but there were none in sight. Since the rain had stopped (briefly, as it turned out), we walked the mile back to our hotel (not quite Camino distance), admiring the tree-lined neighborhood of large gated homes. “Let’s move here,” I told Tracy. She replied I’d have to tell our dog and cat. Oh well, one can dream.

By the time we reached Paseo de la Audiencia, umbrellas were everywhere, except for the two Californians who had left their umbrellas in the room.

Back at the hotel, we called for a taxi to take us the 3+ miles to Cartuja de Miraflores, which is the final resting place of King Juan II of Castile and León (who founded the monastery in the early 1440s as a hunting lodge and had it redesigned ten years later after a fire) and his wife, Isabella of Portugal. However, it was their daughter, Queen Isabella I of Castile (she of Christopher Columbus fame), who really was the impetus of most of what you will see here. It has become one of the most important monastic buildings in the country.

Besides holding royal tombs and many important pieces of artwork, the monastery continues to be home to cloistered Carthusian monks. Chanting could be heard in the courtyard before entering, but Tracy was listening for John Fogerty asking, “Who’ll Stop The Rain?”

We entered through a doorway with a Pietá over it. There are informative QR codes available to listen on your phone.

The Carthusian (Cartuja) Order of monks is also called the Order of Saint Bruno named after its founder in the 11th century. I’ve seen that “look” somewhere before. He seems to be saying, “Silence is golden.”

It’s located near The Virgin Enthroned with Child, created by the great master of 15th-century Castilian sculptor, Gil de Siloé.

Walking into the church makes for quite an entrance, including the soaring ribbed vaults of the nave.

The main altarpiece from the late 1490s was carved in wood by Gil de Siloé and polychrome and gilded by Diego de la Cruz, who was supposedly funded with gold from the Americas. One of the altar’s highlights is an angelic wheel surrounding the crucifixion.

King Juan II of Castile died in 1454 at the age of 49, while Isabella of Portugal didn’t pass away until 52 years later. Their daughter, Queen Isabella I of Castile, commissioned Gil de Siloé to create a tomb for her parents and her brother, Alfonso, who died at age 14. The double Sepulchre of the King and Queen is in the form of an eight-pointed star. The King and Queen were then brought to the Charterhouse of Miraflores as their final resting place.

There are lots of small statues on the tomb, but it’s one that isn’t here anymore with the most interesting story. (more on that later)

As would be expected from a great sculptor, the tomb is quite elaborate and was carved from a block of alabaster from Guadalajara.

As is the one for Isabella’s brother, Infante Alfonso of Castile.

The ribbed ceiling overhead adds to the dramatic effect.

In the Sacristy was a “masterpiece of 17th-century cabinet making,” and yet another portrait of Isabella La Católica, although this one is a copy as the original was “taken” and is on display at the El Pardo Royal Palace in Madrid. We almost had her bingo card filled by now.

Isabella tidbit from my buddy Wikipedia: “Isabella was granted the title of “Catholic Monarch” by Pope Alexander VI… her sainthood cause was opened in 1958 and in 1974 she was granted the title of Servant of God in the Catholic Church…..However, her sainthood cause was stopped in 1991 by Pope John Paul II, one year before the commemoration of the fifth centenary of the discovery of the New World, due to her expulsion of the Jews.” Isabella is buried in Granada next to Ferdinand.

A couple of the more prominent paintings here are Annunciation (1490s) and Emperor Heraclius Before The Gate Of Jerusalem (1530).

The Capilla de Miraflores (Miraflores Chapel) is something to behold. Constructed in 1539, the ethereal 17-century mural paintings are absolutely mesmerizing.

The chapel is dedicated to Our Lady of Miraflores …

… and in its vault is the Assumption and Coronation of the Virgin.

It all makes for an exquisite jewel-toned chapel.

Afterward, we took a look at a small statue with a big story. Gil de Siloé sculpted Apostle St. James in 1490 to adorn the tomb of King Juan II and Queen Isabella of Portugal. This, however, is not the original. According to a placard, in 1914, “a wealthy aristocrat offered to finance a series of restoration work,” and he took this (and other pieces) to Madrid. Like Charlie on the MTA, they “never returned.”

The wealthy aristocrat was actually broke and auctioned them off (including St. James) in New York. Bought by an American collector, the statue of St. James eventually ended up in New York at The Met Cloisters museum where it remains today. In 2011, Cartuja Miraflores received this reproduction. It seems to me, The Cloisters should be getting the reproduction.

A couple of big ticket paintings were seen as we neared the end. Raising of the Cross by Valencian painter Joaquín Sorolla (unfortunately his museum in Madrid was closed for renovation) is one of his masterpieces. So is the below Flemish Triptych by an anonymous artist who is believed to be from the school of Rogier van der Weyden.

We viewed some ornate choir books.

The Chapel of San Bruno was our final stop inside with a life-like wooden carving of the Carthusian Order’s founder.

Outside we took a quick peek at a “secret garden,” and it was time to head back to Burgos.

Once again, there were no taxis nearby, so while Tracy went inside to have the helpful desk person call for a ride, I took a couple of photos of the surrounding area, which looked relatively lush for a place where rain had been scarce … until today.

We dropped in to a gourmet store near our hotel looking for some of those addictive candy pearls I had devoured the previous evening. No luck, but Tracy did score some olive oil and chocolate.

On a drizzly afternoon, the Plaza Mayor was virtually empty.

Everyone seemed to be having tapas at the restaurant we would dine at later this evening.

We continued down the alley stopping for a late afternoon pizza lunch to tide us over to dinner. The thin crust pizzas were good, but being stiffed on our change left a bad taste in my mouth. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize it until it was too late to rectify the situation.

Tempted by some candied apples in the window, a short siesta won.

On a rainy night in Burgos (would have been a hit for Ray Charles), we wandered out for dinner. The cement glistened on the Plaza Mayor.

A lonely tourist made his way toward Casa Pancho.

Not surprisingly, the tapas part of the restaurant was still packed.

Wading through the crowd, Tracy and I headed upstairs toward the actual restaurant, but the bartender nearly leapt across the bar to to block our passage. I fully expected him to go into Black Knight from Monty Python and The Holy Grail, “None shall pass.” Fortunately I didn’t have to cut his legs and arms off to gain access. “We have reservations,” seemed to do the trick.

I don’t know if our waiter was having a bad day, because he was very tense and in a hurry when we first arrived. However, as the evening progressed he became quite jovial and put on quite the show when pairing wine with our meal. I’m surprised he didn’t tear a rotator cuff doing his gyrations of pulling out the cork. We had such a good time that although we were the second table seated, we ended up being the last to leave.

Dinner was very good. Tracy starting out with fried calamari …

… while I was now semi-addicted to Sopa Castellana (garlic soup).

My steak with frites was good (although again … no veggies, well I guess technically potatoes are vegetables), while Tracy finally got some roughage with her goat cheese salad.

Tracy and I shared a coffee mousse for dessert. Perfect.

Casa Pancho was still kicking downstairs, but we knew we had to get some rest for our early morning drive to León.

The streets were quiet …

… and a lone bicyclist entered the empty Plaza Mayor.

We bid a fond farewell to the Arco Santa Maria and el Paseo Espolón.

Back at the hotel, the view out the window bookended our day.

Tomorrow, we would be up very early to drive to León, where we would spend the next two days. However, that early drive would end up being later than we thought when we had a comedy of errors concerning (what else?) our rental car. León is also situated along the Camino, so once again we started with León’s cathedral, which might have contributed to a slight feeling of church overload on this trip. However, when we came upon yet another beautiful, old square with a church, we had to check it out.

The day continued with a nondescript lunch followed by a nondescript museum. After checking into our hotel and while Tracy napped, my next museum choice turned out to be worse than nondescript, which is hard to do. Like a magnet, one more church lured me inside.

Nighttime turned out to be much more entertaining in León due to some tasty tapas and wine in Barrio Húmedo, which restored us to España-mode, followed by dinner in an elegant dining room to finish the day on a high note.

Chapter Nine: “Just One Of Those Days”

I am still enjoying your very interesting trip to Spain. Burgos looks like a city we would enjoy. The sunrise photos are stunning, and the monastery is gorgeous. Looking forward to learning about Leon.

Enjoying your TR and pictures very much! I’ve visited these locations and loved them, Spain is my favorite country (so far 😉 ).

Thanks!

On the day we drove from Burgos to León, for the umpteenth time in our many travels, a rental car dilemma caused us consternation. When we arrived in the city located on the Camino Francés section of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, we visited its stained-glass wonder/UNESCO World Heritage cathedral. We also enjoyed the sights in a few plazas around town before rain was expected. Although there were a couple of museums that did not quite live up to our expectations, once we hit evening tapas time at the Plaza San Martín in León’s very cool Barrio Húmedo, all was good. After tapas, we somehow found room for a really good dinner at a beautiful restaurant.

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ys-on-to-leon/Chapter Nine: Just One Of Those Days

Day Nine - A Key Development Delays Our Drive To León, Tight Fit; Gothic Cathedral Contest, “House Of Light,” Losing My Religion (For A Moment), Important Stop On The Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Route, Passing Up A Famous Museum (For The Moment), Unfortunately Not Passing Up a Non-Famous Museum, Should Have Stuck To First Instinct, Closed Palacio, and Enjoying “The Wet Neighborhood”


Up before dawn so we could get an early start to León, Tracy and I checked out of the hotel and bid adios to the very helpful Valentina at the front desk. We walked in darkness along Paseo de la Audiencia to our black Mercedes rental car. Tracy was already unhappy with me (that whole before the crack of dawn thing). As we neared the car, I hit the key fob to pop open the car. Nothing.

Tracy snatched the fob from me assuming that in my pre-dawn morning stupor I was doing something wrong (usually not a bad assumption). Silence. Being the brilliant wife she is, she assumed the fob battery must have died, but no problem. She pulled the key out of the side of the fob and tried to open the door. No luck. Tracy and I had once again found ourselves in the “Rental Car Twilight Zone,” a place we had sadly visited on numerous prior trips.

We called the broker we had rented through, Auto Europe. They informed me we would have to call roadside assistance for Hertz (the actual rental car agency). Hertz’s number would be on the key fob (it was not) or on the paperwork (it was not). Finally, they said the number would be inside the car. Yes, the same car we could not open.
Through the darkness we trudged back to the AC Burgos Hotel, and asked Valentina if she could contact Hertz at the Madrid Airport where we had rented the car. There was no answer.
Valentina then contacted Hertz roadside assistance, who could not provide roadside assistance for some unexplained reason.

While Valentina was on the phone,Tracy googled a nearby Mercedes dealership in Burgos. Valentina called the service department, and they explained that you needed to pull the door handle up simultaneously as you turned the key. Relieved, we once again bid adios to Valentina, this time taking our luggage she had been guarding.

It was now daylight as we walked back to our car. When we reached the car, Tracy came to a shocking realization. We had been trying to enter the WRONG CAR! We hurried past, thankful that the car alarm had not gone off and that roadside assistance had not been helpful. We quickly found our car as it chirped at us when I pressed the key fob. Popping open the trunk, we stowed our luggage and made a quick getaway, glad that no one would know of our stupidity … well, until now.

It was a little less than two hour drive to León.

Along the way we saw signs for the Camino de Santiago, where hiking pilgrims don’t worry about silly things like key fobs.

GPS directed us to a parking lot situated underneath the hotel. The parking spots should have a sign that they are for Ozempic users only, because as you can see, it was quite a tight fit to get out. Tracy even used her scarf as a buffer, so our car door wouldn’t damage the car next to us. Frightened they might need the Jaws of Life to extricate me, I wangled free, and upstairs we went to the lobby of the NH Collection León Plaza Mayor to deposit our luggage.

Walking past the Old Town Hall on Plaza Mayor …

… it was less than five minutes to walk to, where else? another cathedral, namely the Santa María de Regla de León Cathedral, a major stop along the Camino de Santiago route dedicated to Saint Mary. The church was constructed in the 13th and early 14th centuries in the French Gothic style. We read that there were over 200 similar style cathedrals erected across Europe during this same time period in a race to see who could build the largest and most beautiful cathedral. (I am beginning to feel that Tracy and I have seen a large portion of these cathedrals in our travels.)

Called by many the “House of Light” due to more than 19,000 square feet of stained glass windows illuminating the interior of the cathedral, it was “the first monument declared a Monument of Cultural Interest by the Royal Order of Spain in August 1844.”

Much of the stained glass is from the 13th and 14th centuries.

The 16th century alabaster Trascoro is something to behold, and was conceived as a triumphal arch.

We stopped by one of the many tombs in the cathedral. The tomb of Bishop Rodrigo Alvarez el Zamorano, who died in 1232, is topped by a Calvary scene in addition to grieving figures and charity scenes.

So many gorgeous windows!

We visited the Chapel of Santo Cristo …

… and the Chapel of Saint Anthony of Padua with its polychrome wood carving of the Portuguese saint. Saint Clement and Saint Anthony are portrayed in the stained glass windows.

This stone carving was originally in the main doorway of the cathedral, but was moved to the Chapel of the White Virgin (which alludes to the limestone’s white color).

There are two 14th century tombs flanking the statue.

Speaking of tombs, the Sepulcro de Ordoño II (Tomb of Ordoño II) stands out from all the others.

The sculpted depiction of Ordoño lying in state is surrounded by religious carvings including a central scene of the Crucifixion.

Some of the windows stretch 40 feet high.

The Nativity Chapel dates from the late 15th century.

In the Main Chapel is a 15th century altarpiece painted by Nicolás Francés.

The choir, one of the oldest in Spain, is “a masterpiece of 15th-century art, featuring intricately carved wooden stalls.” The top row is carved with characters from the New Testament.

Detailed carvings include saints, apostles and a myriad of other characters.

This painting might be of St. Christopher, but don’t hold me to that. I read he is also the Patron Saint of motorists, and I wondered if had still been sleeping while we attempted to get in the wrong car earlier.

The tomb of León’s Bishop, Martín Fernández, has the grieving mourners shown above. He died in 1289.

We spent a little more than hour here, and it is a spectacular cathedral.

However, we might have been suffering a slight case of “Cathedral Overload.”

By the time we hit the Cloister and its many statues, we decided to bypass the Cathedral Museum.

The weather was cooperating so far, although rain was predicted for later in the evening. We admired Antiguo Edificio de Correos, León’s old post office and telegraph building located in nearby Plaza de Regla, which dates back to the early 20th century.

Photo op.

There was some cool street art as we meandered through town, including one of my favorite all-time athletes. We floated like a butterfly past.

We reached Plaza San Martín, which is situated in Barrio Húmedo, an area we would get to know more of the next couple of evenings.

I guess “Cathedral Overload” did not include small churches, because we headed for the picturesque Plaza del Grano, an area that served as a grain market during medieval times. It is located on what we were told was a very important stage of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. On the square stands the 12th-century Church of Santa Maria Del Camino (aka Iglesia De Nuestra Señora Del Mercado).

It is one of the oldest churches in León, and its centerpiece is a 15th century Pietà.

It’s a charming little church.

Next stop was the Plaza San Marcelo, and from there we could see Museo Casa Botines Gaudí. Gaudi erected the seven-story building at the end of the 19th century, and until 2017 it was a bank.

At that time, the Fundación Obra Social de Castilla y León converted it into a museum. I had read mixed reviews, so at this moment we passed.

I did sit down with the architect for a quick one-sided chat as he sketched Casa Botines.

On Plaza de San Marcelo, we took a look at the municipal building, also known as the Ayuntamiento de León or Palacio de Jabalquinto, constructed around 1585. It serves as the city council building for León.

There are a few statues of interest located in and around the square, including one honoring 10th-century King of León Alfonso V, a lion emerging from a sewer, and Urraca of León, a 12th-century queen who ruled the Kingdom of León, Galicia, and Castile.

We made our second uninspiring luncheon decision of the trip, and the name of the place has been lost to history.

Palacio del Conde Luna, which houses a museum dedicated to the history of the province of León, looked promising, but really wasn’t very interesting to us. The interior is rather sparsely decorated, and I read afterward it would be better to visit with a private tour. It was free, however.

Back at the hotel, Tracy took a siesta while I decided to explore the town a little more.

I found my way back to Gaudi’s 'modernista' Casa Botines, and despite the differing reviews, I decided to give it a try. This would be another place where a tour might be better, because the museum, in my opinion, has a rather confusing layout, and is probably better suited for Gaudi aficionados. I thought the exterior was much more interesting than the interior.

At the nearby Plaza de Santo Domingo, a flowing fountain …

… and, wouldn’t you know it, another church.

Parroquia de San Marcelo is one of the oldest in the city dating back to 850, having been rebuilt on several occasions. It’s dedicated to Saint Marcellus, patron saint of the city and also a Roman centurion. He is depicted in an 18th-century altarpiece.

I spent about 15 minutes checking it out before realizing it was late in the afternoon… tapas time! Walking back to the hotel, I passed the Palacio de los Guzmanes, a place that had interested me in my trip planning. However, it was not open either day we were in León.

Next to our hotel on Plaza Mayor was a bar, which tempted me to order a glass of Guinness and enjoy the afternoon.

Gathering the now rested Tracy, we wandered through the nearly empty Plaza Mayor …

… a short distance to Plaza de San Martín, right in the heart of Barrio Húmedo ("Wet Neighborhood”). I had read, “The Wet Quarter nickname originates from the high density of bars and restaurants in the area and the tradition of ‘going out for tapas,’ where a small snack is typically served free with every drink. At night, the plaza is a popular hub for social life, lined with outdoor terraces lit by vintage-style lanterns that reflected off the wet cobblestone pavement on this evening. Our first stop was Los Cazurros. Delicious.

We then walked about 100 feet to Entrepeñas for more tapas and wine. At both establishments, the people assembled were jovial and seemed to be mostly filled with friends and neighbors, as there were no English speakers (except us). It was such a cool vibe to be hanging in this area for about an hour.

What does one do after a few tapas and wine? Eat dinner, of course. We checked out more street art along the way.

We had chosen Casa Mando, known for its Leonese cuisine.

Tracy thought the dining area consisting of four private rooms “elegant,” and the service was impeccable.

We have cut back on eating out at home because prices in the Los Angeles area are simply out of control. Our meal on this evening was fantastic, and although prices were not inexpensive, they were reasonable. Our ham croquettes to start were very good.

For my main dish I ordered the Solomillo stroganoff. When it arrived, I was a little worried, because on top of the meat were pickles. Pickles are not one of my favorite foods, but when in León… Served on a bed of rice this dish was great, including the pickles. Tracy enjoyed her beef cheek cannelloni.

Despite an evening of tapas, wine and dinner, we had enough room left to order the table-side flambéed Baked Alaska for dessert. Instead of being chocolate, strawberry and vanilla, this one had a citron interior. I could have eaten another one, even though I had consumed more food on this evening than I do in an entire weekend at home.

At the table next to us were three local college students who struck up a conversation with two elderly tourists, well one elderly person and his wife. When they found out we were from the U.S., one of them excitedly said he’d be coming to New York City in 2026 for the World Cup. They were very nice and offered to take a photo of the two of us.

It was drizzling heavily on the walk home, giving the “Wet District” an entirely new meaning.

Plaza Mayor was devoid of people as we hurried back to the hotel with the rain now coming down heavily.

Tracy took a “Mirror Selfie” of our drenched selves as we got into the hotel elevator.

Back in our very comfy hotel room, we took one last photo of the Plaza Mayor.

Tomorrow would be our last day in León, and we started at the Royal Collegiate Church of Saint Isidore, where we met our only grumpy person of the trip “guarding” the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art.” Next we’d see Convento de San Marcos (Parador de León), which not only is a historical convent, but also a very upscale hotel. Our bad lunch the day before was all but forgotten as we had a really good meal at Cafe Bar Rua, Rua 11, in our favorite part of town, Barrio Húmedo.

Later in the afternoon, little did we know that when we stopped into the pharmacy, we had stepped into a local landmark. Finally, after another tapas stop, we’d dine at a restaurant with very good food near the cathedral, even though the server was, shall we say, distracted by a device that distracts us all these days.

Chapter Ten: Last Day In León

I had a feeling that you were trying to unlock the wrong car. I can see how that could easily happen when you have a rental car. Especially since that has happened to me with our own car! Several times I've tried to unlock someone else's car that looks like mine, and then I feel so stupid.

Enjoying your report and photos of Leon. We've never been there. I especially love the little church you visited.