Arrived home Friday am from Puerto Vallarta on a red eye flight . The whole trip was very last minute ( booked 3 days before departure ) , chose destination at last minute , rushed , exciting , secret from the kids , kind of trip !! We "chose" basically by the cheapest fare , it was between Costa Rica , Panama , Cuba , and of course PV ( Yelapa ).
Being the "queen" of research that I am , I allready knew a lot about the small village of Yelapa , thus the decision was easy , this was our kind of place . In the process of getting there , we would also get to explore Puerto Vallarta on our first and last days . Thankfully the hotel still had room . And also sweet Posada Roger was available in PV .
We landed in PV in the wee hours of the am after a 6 hour flight . The air was slightly cool , but lots warmer than Montreal so no complaints !! As we left the airport ( modern , smooth process ) the kids started excitedly telling us " Look ... McDonalds , KFC , Burger King , WALMART !!! " OH NO !! Where was I ? I had made a BIG mistake , this was not what I wanted to see ..... But , whew . We gradually seemed to leave these reminders of home behind . Things started looking less familar , less like home , more exotic . Posada Roger was our first stay , located in the Romantic Zone , within an easy walk of all the sights . It is older , quaint , a jumble of rooms , stairs , levels , inner courtyards , etc. etc. ..... But very pretty , charming , strewn with vines , flowers , a roof top tiny pool , small but extremely clean rooms , and a super location on Basillo Badillo that can't be beat ! And at $50 us per night ( tx. included ) who could complain !!! And when you wake up in the morning with the great view of green , jungly mountains behind you it's suddenly an even better place !
After a short walk around the romantic zone I am able to determine that I do indeed want to return early our last day for a day of exploring . PV looked charming indeed . We found aur local bus stop where we would catch the bus to Boca de Tomatlan . We lugged our luggage a couple of blocks , waited all of 5 minutes before our green bus arrived . ( .50 cents per person ) The drive to Boca was about 20 minutes , beautiful scenery , steep green mountainsides meeting the ocean . Every once in a while you would get a peek of a small cove beach . We arrive in Boca , the last stop , a very small community nestled in a small cove at the base of the mountains , a tiny river winds it's way to the sea in the middle of the very pretty beach . Here we await our " Panga " , a small water taxi which will take us to Yelapa , our destination which is accessible only by boat ..... The fare is $6.00 us per person one way , it will take approx. 25 minutes . By now I am definitely feeling better , my dissappointment at the " Walmart" horror left behind , it seems a world away from this lovely little cove and pangas that await us . After a short wait , a Corona , some photo ops , we ascertain life vests and hop in our panga . No dock , it's on the beach , a throw in your own luggage , get your feet wet , don't forget the kids kind of water taxi !!!! Yeah !!! It's off to Yelapa !!
Leaving the cove of Boca de Tomatlan I take numerous pictures , I am soon to discover that this camera will be fixed to my hand the entire trip , beautiful , beautiful , beautiful . The layers of steep green mountains , rugged coastline , broken up by idyllic stretches of Robinson Crusoe palm strewn beaches further comforts me that Yelapa is sure to be a wonderful choice . And imagine , Walmart is a mere 1/2 hour away !! The scenery is truly remarkable , sparsley populated at this point as the road that took us to Boca veers off inland and only water taxis service these communities . This taxi actually made stops at a few of the beaches , dropping off passengers ( Boca is not direct to Yelapa , but the taxi from PV is direct and $2.50 more PP ) We were glad of our choice as we were able to see other places , Mahauitas for example . It looks very much like it's pictures , very pretty beach , the only problem was that for the price ( around $365 ) you pay for these casitas and palapas , even with the 3 gourmet meals per day ..... The daytrippers on noisy banana boats , jet skis , volleyball on the beach , would have had steam coming out my ears !!! Perhaps someone can let us know that the daytrippers are only there for a very short while ??? Other than that observation , a very beautiful place .
A few pretty coves later , long stretches of rugged coastline where mountain reaches sea , we round a big rock face and suddenly enter a large cove , sided by extremely steep , jungle strewn mountains . Yelapa .

Ahhhh .... Yelapa . The beach itself is quite large , an arching swath of beige/white sand . Fringed by towering palms , flanked by the steep , green mountains which meet in the middle of the beach , a valley of sorts , with a lazy lagoon and river . Every once in awhile the locals dig a trench and let the river run to the sea . I guess it can be quite a sight to see the tourists try to navigate through this !! Thankfully this did not occur while we were there as the river is also affectionately known as " Shit" creek !!! lol . Can I say that ? And perhaps it's just a tale anyway !
At one end of the beach , is " town " ..... Perched precariously on the hillside , a jumble of terra cotta , and palm thatch roofs , with wisps of smoke snaking up through the greenery . The Walmart of yesterday a hundred years away . In the middle of the beach are restaurants , beach chairs , para sailing , a few vendors , that cater primarly to daytrippers from PV . This I was aware of , and with the price we pay for our hotel , etc. Is not even an issue . Plus the beach is much , much larger than Majahuitas so one is able to find a secluded spot . At the other extreme end of the beach is Hotel Lagunita , our hotel .

Hotel Lagunita has been around for a good number of years started back in the original " hippy " days when Yelapa was discovered by adventurous tourists , draftdodgers , hippys , artists , actors , etc. , etc. The area only recieved electricity 3 years ago, and this , along with the remoteness have made it possible to keep the feeling of stepping back in time .
Hotel Lagunita had at one time been almost abandoned , brought back to life by three friends , one of whom ( Lucas ) still runs the hotel . After jumping off our water taxi into the water , waiting to grab my kids , having Francois ( husband ) toss me the luggage as the panga goes in and out with each wave ..... We truly realize what a wonderful adventure we have embarked upon . Reminder . Pack LIGHT . No pretty sandals . You will get your feet wet . We are met by about 5 little local boys , each wanting to carry a piece of luggage up the beach to our hotel . We let each of them take a piece and even give up our back packs so each child has something to carry . I feel guilty that the big bag is too heavy so convince one boy to let me at leat help him . They are happy with their tip .
The hotel is actually a number of palm thatches palapas and casitas nestled at one end of the beach . Some are on the beach , others on the hill and out on the "point " ..... The grounds are very lush , natural , abuntant flowers , vines , cobblestone paths , little wooden bridges , ahhhhh Lagunita .

faithie, just reading your report has given ME that ahhhh feeling. your adventure sounds perfect so far and you write wonderfully. please continue!

Looking forward to more faithie. Your report is bringing back a flood of wonderful memories of our trip to Yelapa in April 2005. We too stayed at the incomparable Lagunita for a week. I am hooked; and frequently visit a Yelapa forum for a long-distance fix.

I once read that seeing Yelapa and Hotel Lagunita nestled between the mountains gives one the feeling they are looking at Tahiti ..... this is true . The location is extremely " exotic " , the views from the hotel are inspiring . The hotels palapa office is literally on the beach , the sand leading up to the steps ..... The beach in front has palapas for shade , with colorful hammocks for frequent siestas , and blue cloth beach chairs for taking in the views . Very simple , rustic good taste ... Scattered amongst these are small dining tables , no shoes necessary , as you eat you can trace "paradise" in the sand with your toes . ( cloth napkins for those discerning travellers ) Robinson Crusoe with linen !!!
Our first night is spent in a small , thatch roofed palapa next to the pool , extra cots brought in for the children , and the extra mousquito net quickly hung . The huge shutters open up to give you a panoramic vista , again .... What views !! Whitewashed walls , white spreads on the beds , white nets , dark wood furniture contrasting with the white , funky tiled baths , thick terra cotta floors , a fan in the corner , spartan , but perfect . Exactly what you would expect . The pool is amazing . Decieving in pictures , it's much larger and deeper than it appears . Interspersed with boulders , built into the hillside , taking in views of beach , Yelapa , and mountains beyond . THIS is a great pool .

Honestly, Puerto Vallarta wasn't anywhere on my radar screen but I see incredible flight deals there sometimes. Sounds like it might be a great last minute, secret from the HUSBAND kind of trip, too. Thanks so much for posting!

I'll report back with my take on Majahuitas as we are going in under three weeks! \/

From what I've read, the daytrippers don't stay long, are not allowed to come near the hotel, and come off more as amusing entertainment than anything else. A good time to go take a siesta or have a massage. We'll see :-?

Yelapa sounds great.

-Bill

I think you are probably correct Bill , that's what I have read in the past .... Perhaps we arrived at that " peak " time of day ..? The beach is truly beautiful , the boat ride very scenic and an adventure in itself . And I hear nothing but rave reviews about the quisine .

Our second , larger room at Lagunita was no.27 , a little further on the point , with an even better view of mountains , Yelapa , and beach . The short walk to pool , restaurant was enjoyable .... And what's the rush , we're on "Yelapa time" by now !! lol . This room has a door into no.28 , but we were lucky and had the place to ourselves . I will list casitas by location , preference etc. , later . Similar decor to other room , just larger , newer , and better view , with our own balcony and a much bigger bathroom . This is a place that promotes a slow pace , relaxation , and enjoying lifes simple pleasures .... Shall we go to the pool , lets watch the iguanas , look at the green parakeets , maybe have that glass of red on the balcony , perhaps pat one of the many local dogs who seemed owned by all . They are everywhere , well fed , happy , and well mannered . To be a dog in Yelapa is a good thing . Lagunita is a little gem . Simple , rustic , elegance . No air co. No marble baths , no room service . On the other hand , it is not " roughing it " in any sense . The rooms are open at the top where roof meets top of wall , so critters could potentially get in . We saw none , and there is a suprising lack of skeeters . ( MUCH more here at home ) We usually do not spend much time in our rooms , but this hotel makes you want to stay in your room and on the grounds , it's that kind of place . A photo op. at every glance . ( I took 500 pics )
The food at the restaurant is extremely well priced ( $6-$9.00 main course ) and did I say YUMMY !! Great menu , and simply great food . Toes in the sand , and biggest decision is whether to sit looking at ocean , or mountains . Wait !! You can do both ! lol . Staff is friendly , quick service , they accept visa , or you can simply charge to your room .

We were a bit farther S over Christmas: Costalegre - Tenacatita, Melaque and Barra de Navidad.
www.cosalegre.ca
M

Fathie...I am glad to see a review of Hotel Lagunita.....my family is going to Yelapa next January to celebrate my sister's brother-in-law's birthday who has lived there many years. He is a Vietnam vet (Larry -- ponytail, straw hat) who used to run a bar on the beach. Looking forward to the various casita descriptions. Did you ever see the Yelapa movie "Which Way Por Favor?" I've wanted to go ever since I saw it! Glad you enjoyed your trip.....Lori

I have to rent that movie ! As for Larry .... Hmmmm.... Larry's are everywhere there !!!lol . You will love it , descriptions to come . Off to hockey at the moment .

Just lovin' this great report!! Thanks, Faithie.

Especially glad to hear you enjoyed my home-away-from-home Posada de Roger in old town before you went on to Yelapa.

Sorry that the Walmart, McD's, etc. was such a huge surprise and potential dissapointment. But PV is a large modern city (pop. 250,000) so I'm a little confused why you'd think this signaled some huge mistake on where to go on vacation. Although not what you "wanted to see" for the good or the bad (and the local folks seem to appreciate them) those are all part of the local culture now.

250,000 does not seem a "large" city to me . I had not done research with questions like .... " Does PV have a Walmart ?? " It never occurred to me to do so . It would not have changed my mind in the end as I really knew Yelapa was not like that . So seeing them upon arrival was a "suprise" , I simply had not expected it , plain and simple . The thought that passed through my mind , " Uh Oh , was this the right choice !? " , was a gut reaction at that moment as I was genuinely suprised . I had anticipated something more like San Jose Costa Rica , while a larger city than PV , you do not see Walmart , Office Depot , McPigs , burger King , and KFC upon arrival ..... Of course the local population appreciates these places . As I do here . The old area was charming and very pretty , and the trip was a great success . It was my first trip to Mexico , so I guess I am entitled to my suprises , No ? Some people love reminders and comforts of home while away , thats fine . I prefer the opposite , and that fine as well .

Oh ! And your welcome ... glad your enjoying it ! More on PV later , as I toured the last day .

Hi Faithie! Enjoying your report.

Actually yesterday I was headed out to B&N in search of a guidebook on the Caribbean. Thought I would take a moment and read a bit on the forum, when I spotted your report. Well needless to say I purchased a Caribbean guidebook as well as a Mexico one, and could not resist yet another book on CR.

I too have seen some good air deals to Puerto Vallarta, however after a quick search, I always end up only seeing large hotel resort type properties and therefore dismiss the idea of PV. Now you have me thinking.

Again thanks, sounds like you had a lovely time.

PS - you may have noticed a recent post from me on the Carib board. Since you travel CR, you know what I am looking for, if you have any ideas, I certainly would appreciate them!

The beach itself is perhaps not what many would consider the ideal beach ...... The sand is coarse in areas , the drop off is fairly quick , but this was the type of place where suddenly this didn't matter , it is picturesque .
We loved the beach for what it was , taking in the views and the local characters ,and enjoying swimming each day. But do keep in mind that if you seek powdery white sand , turquoise waters , and miles of beach to walk on .... this is NOT the place .
Each day we would face the tough decision about what to do first .... Pool , beach , hike , or one of the daily trips to " town " . We would walk the length of the beach from Hotel Lagunita to Yelapa . Choosing whether to take the steep " private" stairs squashed between two buildings built into the hillside , OR using the public stairs to town where you need to navigate a precarious stone bridge with the infamous "SH.." creek on one side , just waiting to gobble up my little Willem !!! Then , you go up equally steep stairs and are in town .
Sweet Yelapa . Turn right at the top of either set of stairs ( catch your breath ) , beneath your feet is perhaps cobblestone , then dirt , a stretch of pavement of sorts , and if it's been busy , lottsa donkey dung ..... You will reach a particular stretch quite heavy with donkey dung which we affectionately referred to as " The Highway " . But in fact if you passed 1/2 hr. later , it was all cleaned up . Streetcleaners ? The " streets " twist and turn , go up and down , a virtual maze , not quite certain which way is what . Eventually it makes sense , and town was a favourite daily adventure . The people are extremely friendly , accepting our intrusion into their town . It's filled with colorful characters from elsewhere , some there for 30 years , ready to tell you tales of early Yelapa days . Transportation is by donkey , boxes of corona , palm fronds , children , gringos , luggage , the donkey is a hard working fellow . Or as my 7 year old loved the sudden liberty of saying ,... " ass " !!! lol . There are a few small restaurants to choose from , Mimi's ( slow but well worth the wait ) . Pollo Bollo , excellent chicken . The " Yacht Club " , amazing food and only open Saturday and not really a yacht club . Also different little shops to explore , grab a beer , some fresh fruit etc. Local children run about town , one particular little girl full of beans waving a dead bird at us and sticking out her tounge !! The next day she was tossing flower petals at us , and I thought "how nice" , just as she tossed a stick at Bellas head !! lol . She was actually too cute for words and I loved her spunk . As my husband and I would enjoy the last of our meal , often the kids would join in the games of the local children , playing tag in the maze of little streets . Local dogs tagging with you for the day are also something to accept , laying at your feet as you eat there could be 3-4 dogs patiently waiting . And they just might follow you back to the hotel and be there when you wake in the morning ....
Town was a wonderful expeirence that I hope my children will always remember . It does seem a place somewhat lost in time . The " bakery " is simply someones kitchen where each day you can choose between banana bread , cimnnamon rolls , or cookies . You will pass someones wash draped across the bushes , old soccer balls as flower pots , endless amounts of clucking chickens , lotsa asses (lol) , wisps of smoke and delicious scents , wafts of steam from not so great scents , many , many , friendly greetings of " Hola " , and the overall feeling that you are indeed someplace very special .

Actually the main river is not 'Shit Creek', that name is reserved for a very small stream that crosses the trail from the beach to the village, but there wouldn't be any water (or s**t) in it now, in the dry season.

Faithie/Willem

Looked forward to your trip report since you posted on the Caribbean forum and you have not disappointed. Never heard of Yelapa before then.

Love the spontaneity of your trip...book on Tuesday, fly on Thursday!

Keep them coming.