We are not serious, intense birders but did enjoy our experience at two locations.

Costa Rica October 9-17, 2010
We decided to explore possibilities of a trip to Costa Rica based on a AAA magazine article. Via travel forums on Fodors and Trip Advisor we selected Costa Rica Gateway. We worked with Sonia Nunez and were able to make payments by checks from our local bank. For the 7 day Snowcaps and Quetzals package we added an extra day at the end of the trip given the 8 am departure flight. AAA handled our flight arrangements (Newark to San Jose and return) and sold us trip insurance. The flight was roughly 5 hours each way with a 2 hr time zone difference. Beth stayed in our room at the triple occupancy rate.
Packing was an endeavor as October is the rainy season but also we expected high humidity and yet chilly conditions being in the higher elevations. We pursued the “layered” approach with t-shirts, light jackets, rain jackets and even rubber boots (unnecessary). The gals had point-n-shoot digital cameras while I a Canon T1i with a 70-300 mm zoom lens. We took spare batteries, chargers and converter (was not necessary). Each of us had a pair of binoculars. Took a copy of “The Birds of Costa Rica” by Richard Garrigues and Robert Dean and “A Photographic Guide to Birds of Costa Rica” by Susan Fogden. The former covered many, many more birds but photos in the latter were more helpful especially for the hummingbirds. Also, took flashlight, note books, reading material and the normal meds and toiletries. Prior to the trip we looked over “A Bird-Finding Guide to Costa Roca” for insights as to birds we might see on specific trails.
The departure flight was rather uneventful arriving in San Jose International Airport in some 5 hours. From the time we landed ‘til we were in the van was at most ½ hour, a very speedy process. Immigration, customs and baggage pick-up were very smooth and efficient. While the gals picked up the bags I got local money (colones) at the airport currency exchange. Having traveled internationally before I should have known better as we got higher rates elsewhere. At the airport we got 459 colones per US $1 while at hotel it was almost 500 to 1.
Given that it was a Saturday evening, traffic was rather light and driver,Juan Carlos, took maybe 30 minutes to get to the Hotel Bougainvillea. Hotel Bougainvillea is a modern facility with various amenities (including free Internet) and a spacious garden of several acres handsomely landscaped with a wide variety of trees, shrubs and flowers. More importantly, the garden is inhabited by a host of birds including hummingbirds, woodpeckers, robins, the handsome blue-crowned motmot and others (only time we saw the Inca dove). Best seen in the early morning when hotel staff place filled hummingbird feeders , fruits and other goodies at select locations. One can approach feeding birds for excellent picture taking. It was all we could do to tear ourselves away to have a buffet breakfast.
Eric, our driver, spoke excellent English and had a great sense of humor. Leaving San Jose on our 2.2 5 hour drive we traveled the Pan American Highway, initially a 4 lane highway. Eric was a great driver but a couple of dogs perhaps wishing to commit suicide gave him a moment or two! At Cartago we turned towards Turrialba, Erik’s home town where he also drives taxi. I was really impressed with the green hills, numerous agricultural areas and winding roads. As we gained elevation one could see major areas covered with elevated netting to protect ferns and vegetables from the sun as well as coffee trees growing under taller shade trees with acres and acres of sugar cane. Drivers seemed more at liberty to pass where maybe common sense would dictate otherwise. Everywhere we noted numerous plants including poinsettias, calla lilies, and geraniums growing wild. We soon passed the small villages of Canada and Switzerland before turning onto an inconspicuous lane to Rancho Naturalista. The one vehicle wide lane was steep, windy and bumpy. Much of the base was cobble and gravel but remnants of two strips of concrete provided smoother travel. Passing thru an old pasture we soon entered the rain forest before pulling into the parking area at Rancho Naturalista.
We were the only guests and Lisa, the owner, moved us into rooms 1 and 2 in the main building. Beth would have her own room and bath! As we climbed the stairs onto the balcony adjacent to both rooms I was overwhelmed with the crowd of hummingbirds (white-necked Jacobins, green-breasted mangos, rufous-tailed hummingbirds, and violet-crowned woodnymphs) working the 4 or 5 feeders around the edge of the balcony with more in the adjacent bushes! Plus, there were strange birds in the shrubbery and edge of the rain forest just a basketball throw from the balcony. We stowed our clothes, met our guide Cali, and moved onto the balcony to be entertained. Then, lunch of tossed salad, skewered beef, fried veggies, seasoned roasted potatoes, fresh fruit, juice, and a slice of cake. And, it was okay to drink tap water. The food throughout the stay was excellent and we anticipated each meal as the aromas from the kitchen downstairs drifted up to our room or balcony. (We understood when more guests are present often buffet style meals are served).
After lunch the three of us set out on our own hike on the trail past the laundry room into the forest and to the pasture. Given the rather dark nature of the forest due to overcast conditions, it was difficult to take photos let alone see many birds. Beth found a small lizard. No snakes. (Cali alerted us several venomous types were in the area and to watch our footsteps). The forest was much like we had seen up to and along the rim of the Ngorongora Crater in northern Tanzania with dense foliage, hanging moss, but with more flowers. We headed back to the balcony to be entertained by the hummingbirds and others coming to the feeders, bird bath or the edge of the woods. The lodge provides a 20-60X spotting scope on the balcony and such made for great viewing. Lisa said October is a low month for attendance but things will really begin to pick up in November.
Maximum capacity is 30 guests but expanding. Rancho Naturalista has its own farm which produces much of the fruit, veggies, eggs, meat, etc for the lodge. Soda, bee, bottled water and wine were always available in a small ‘fridge on the first floor on the honor system and tea/coffee simply by asking the cook. Soft drinks were $2 per 600 ml bottle, beer at $2.50 (couple of brands) and wine $5.00 by the glass or better by the bottle. A small library had reference books.
Around 4 pm more birds came to drink or bathe and picture taking became a challenge due to failing light. Supper was simply great! An ample serving of chicken with rice, green beans, yogurt and juice, hot tea and coffee. We retired to our room to read, make notes and play cards. The area was very quiet.
At 5 am or so, a staffer placed a pot of hot coffee on the balcony table and filled the humming bird feeders. In addition, cooked rice was placed on feeding areas near the bushes while bananas were hung in adjacent bushes. A couple of dozen humming birds plus grey-headed chachalaca, snowcap, trogons, collored aracari, woodpeckers, tanagers, Montezuma oropendala, orioles and more moved in for breakfast. Even we novices could identify several species but the hummingbirds were a bit more challenging as the illustrations in our bird book missed the real colors of several species. Fortunately, lodge id posters helped. And, it was kinda nice to see migrants, as the Baltimore Oriole, which frequent Pa for part of the summer. Cali came about 6 for a session on the balcony. It was difficult to tear ourselves away for breakfast when the bell “rang”. Cook prepared omelets filled with various veggies, bacon, rice w/beans (a daily item), toast, juice and fruit.
Cali had his own spotting scope and a tape player for calling birds. Once he heard or saw a particular species, often at a distance, he would dial up the song of that particular species. On numerous occasions said bird would come closer for our viewing. At 26 yrs old, he impressed me as one of the most knowledgeable naturalists (at least for birds) I have ever met.
The morning bird walk was very interesting and enjoyable. The same stretch we walked the previous afternoon was alive with birds. And so were the mosquitoes! But, we had repellant. We saw tanagers, wrens, woodcreepers, vireos, flycatchers, woodpeckers, and more. Moving out into the soggy pasture with occasional trees we added more to our list before venturing down a lane to a private residence where we checked out an orchid collection.
Lunch was beef/veggie soup, bruchetta, tossed salad and cake.
For the early afternoon we hung around the balcony. About 3:30, as Cali suggested, we three headed out on a short trail to the small stream around the hillside from the lodge. Seems various birds including hummingbirds come there to drink/bath in late afternoon. The trail is railed and makes for a nice spot to watch the stream. Indeed, we saw a few birds including white-necked Jacobin and violet-crowned woodnymph make use of the water. Lighting made for poor picture taking and even seeing the birds. Seeing a splash in the pool was usually the cue as to bird activity. Sharp-eyed Darla spotted a crab on top of a rock before it ventured back into the water. About 4:10 rain began and we got back to the porch just as it really began to pour.
During the morning walk Cali showed us how to take photographs thru the spotting scope with the smaller digital cameras. It was obvious he had much experience at it. My attempts with the lodge scope were miserable. He made me feel better saying that scope was rather old and less stable.
Cook really outdid himself for the 6 pm supper. We had spaghetti with Alfredo sauce with ham/chicken, tossed salad, garlic bread. Steady rain fell.
Prior to our trip I read traveler reviews on the Internet forums as to our lodging. One reviewer mentioned rooms were prone to having bugs and the like. True. There was space around doors and windows for critters to enter. But, we rather enjoy the entire aspect of all the critters of the area. So, we were not surprised to see a resident gecko in the room. Nor the rather large roach in the bathroom. The only issue with the gecko was he would not pose for a picture!
Next morning after a scrambled egg, sausage, rice/bean, fried plantations breakfast with watermelon, toast and juice we were off to Irazu Volcano. We decided on that area not only to see the volcano but also birds of the area plus Cali felt he knew a spot where the resplendent quetzal might be found. Costa Rico Gateway provided the transportation and Erik was our driver.
The drive to the volcano was simply breath taking. From Cartago we climbed and climbed using a winding two lane road thru farm country and forested areas. Fields of rich volcanic soil were being tilled, planted and worked for crops of onions, potatoes and other vegetables. Most work was done by hand but occasionally we saw a tractor (mostly for plowing). Little villages here and there provided the work force necessary for the activity. At one point Cali had us leave the vehicle and check for possible birds in a very steep gorge crossed by a metal bridge. In the area we saw a red-tailed hawk and eastern meadowlark, species quite familiar to us and local birds including the common rufous-collared sparrow. Then, we walked the road checking for birds. At various points he would use his tape player.I was impressed with the tall oak trees and the amount of mast (acorns) on the ground. Then, a flash of green caught his attention as a resplendid quetzal crossed the road and lit in a nearby tree. Eventually, we accounted for 2 males and 3 females –quite a sighting! At a nearby tourist restaurant with museum and, trails he and I enjoyed a cup of coffee and the rest rooms were appreciated by all. Loading up we headed to the park entrance. Admission was $10 per non-resident and maybe three each for Cali and Erik. Parking near the souvenir shop we spied a volcano junco and a large-footed finch. Mist was pouring over the area from the valley so we moved along to see the volcano floor while we could. It was quite windy and before you knew it, Beth’s Pittsburgh Steeler hat flew over the side of the rim never to be seen again. Then, to a picnic table for the box lunch provided by Rancho Naturalista staff.
On the way back we stopped at the Jardin Botanico Lankester gardens not only as a possible birding site but also to see the numerous orchids there. The admission was something like $7.50 for each of us but free to our guide. Numerous orchids were on display and some were for sale. Other interesting plants and thoughtful landscaped areas were available for our enjoyment. Oriental gardens including ponds and buildings are being added and create a relaxing atmosphere. The birding was a bit of a let down but it was mid-day when such activity might be expected to be low. On our return drive we also stopped at a fenced water supply reservoir and saw blue-winged teal, killdeer, and a spotted sandpiper. Having been on this section of highway some three times now, I was able to anticipate areas for taking pictures of the countryside. Another great meal of filet mignon w/gravy, peppers and onions, creamy smooth mashed potatoes, veggies and cream brulea, and for dessert, a slice of hot/warm pineapple topped with ice cream and caramel sauce. Afterwards we three played cards with the ladies winning most of the games.
For our last day at Rancho we agreed on a short trip with Cali along the stream flowing past the road to Rancho. Lisa gave us an excellent price for transportation to and from the trail. Cali was particularly interested in showing us a brown bittern, a special bird to the area. We followed an old gravel road past residences, thru forested areas, past a small dam providing an intake for hydro-electric operations further down the valley and then into the forest. Highlights included a sunbittern, a red-headed barbet, black and yellow tanager, and a buff-rumped warbler. It was interesting to go maybe a hundred yards without seeing a bird and then suddenly come upon quite a variety in one fruiting fig tree. On the way back we saw numerous, large purplish grass hoppers and other large insects. I pointed out to Cali given the instable nature of the stream bottom (boulders, cobble, etc) attempting to maintain any size of impounded area at the dam was nearly impossible.
After another great lunch we said go bye to Rancho Naturalista as Erik came for the 3 hr ride to Saverge Mountain Lodge. We got Cali’s email address so we can keep in touch particularly so we can view his web page once it is up and running.
In route Erik commented on various aspects of life in Costa Rico. It was interesting to note driving on two lane roads. Where a crew was patching one lane, no one was directing traffic let alone giving advanced warning. With numerous tractor-trailers and other large vehicles on the road we saw some close encounters. Back to Cartago where we again picked up the Pan American highway for a long, long climb out of the valley. Heavy truck traffic, misty conditions and overcast skies made for a challenging drive. No passing lanes, no advance notice of one lane traffic due to a landslide, gave him reason to complain about the highway. We were caught up in the scenery. Roadside stands had pineapples at 3 to the $1! Then, the turnoff to Saverge Valley at an elevation of 9,000’. Lisa had told us the upper valley reminded her of forested scenes in the Lord of the Rings movie. She was right. What a breath taking sight with huge forested areas of very tall and very ancient oak trees, grassy meadows, large boulders and a beautiful high gradient stream. Reminded me so much of what I recall in portions of the Black Forest in Germany or areas of Switzerland. The stream “cried out” trout here! The drive to Saverge Mountain Lodge took maybe twenty minutes once we turned onto the single lane gravel road. At the lodge Christian gave us a quick orientation and soon we were in cabin #139 immediately adjacent to the main building. Then a buffet supper. A variety of foods was available including a salad table, a desert one, cream of asparagus soup and several entries in heated serving pans (trout, chicken, spaghetti with seafood sauce and rice). In general we thought the food was less tasty than what we had at Rancho. We also learned the lodge is at 6,600’ elevation while the ridge with the main highway is at 9,000’.
Unlike Rancho Naturalista, Saverge Mountain Lodge offers a wider list of actitivites including horseback riding, water water rafting, and pond trout fishing.
Our cabin had two very nice full size beds, a small table and three chairs, a fireplace with two arm chairs and an electric space heater. I noted a supply of firewood in a nearby basket. Beth especially appreciated the bathroom. A step-down bath tub (for showers also) flanked on one side with an area of gravel among which were candles for that special bath. Windows to the rear overlooked a flower bed and large trees on the slope. To the front we had a great view of the large, well landscaped flower garden and paths to other rooms. Adjacent to the side of the dining room was a small patio with tables and chairs and several well-used hummingbird feeders. I had a good feeling as to what we might see next morning. After more cards we retired for the night maybe around 9:30 or so. We were to meet our guide at 7 am.
I awoke to the sounds of birds and headed out to the flower beds. Immediately spied a male collared trogon which allowed me to approach within 10’. Breakfast was off the menu. The omelet was okay but the gals mentioned the bacon was rather tasteless.
Guide Marino Chacon Z. came and we drove up the valley a couple of miles to a hillside area where quetzels have been seen. The owner charges $2 per person to venture onto his land. Along a small stream with small ponds for rearing rainbow trout we came upon a wild avocado tree in which a beautiful male quetzal was feeding. Seems the quetzal swallow a few avocado fruits and then spit up the seed. While watching him thru her binocs Darla saw him spit out a seed. A light rain was falling and the bird disappeared so we headed back to the lodge area for a 3 mile or so hike. Marino drove up the mountain to the trail head. He had his 20-60X spotting scope. We went thru stands of mature oak trees and spotted birds here and there usually in bunches. Saw pieces of a snake skin but no snake. After crossing a small stream he pointed out a trail camera used to monitor wildlife use of the trail. He said jaguar, peccary, oscelot and other mammals had been photographed at that spot. Here and there we could see where larger birds or even deer had disturbed the forest floor while feeding. I found tracks of a coati mundi. We added a few dozen new birds to our list including American dipper, soot-capped bush-tanager, emerald toucanet, collared red-start and several tanagers. He was very excited when we heard the silver-throated jays as they are difficult to spot. I continued to be amazed at how lush the forest was. Once back at the vehicle we revisitrd the private land where we saw the quetzal and sure enough it was back. Marino indicated he would join us for supper and review the day’s sightings.
After a buffet lunch we looked around in the flower gardens. The gals decided to take a short nap so I strolled around the area and saw trout swimming in the river. Beth and I enjoyed a ginger ale and an Imperial beer in the lounge. Price was 2,600 colones or about $5.20. Our room was a bit chilly so we turned on the electric space heater but only while we were in the room.
The evening meal was off-the-menu and much better than the buffet. I had creamed potato soup, and chicken sesame cooked in a coconut sauce, potatoes and veggies followed by cake. It was excellent! Marino joined us for supper and told many stories including how his father and uncle explored and eventually settled in the valley in the mid to late 1950’s. It was amazing to hear how they lived in a cave, brought in dairy cows to the road-less valley and made a homestead. He then reviewed his bird book as to species we saw. Then, we retired to the cabin. More cards (mostly I lost).
The next morning Darla and I were out early but there was relatively little activity in the garden. A couple other birders were out also. Breakfast was okay and yes, the bacon was rather bland, We opted to hike downstream to see the falls (cataractae) . First part was on a gravel road parallel to the river. Then, crossed the river and followed a narrow path thru the forest. Beautiful, simply beautiful. Saw birds here and there. Could not help but wish I was fishing the river as the habitat was varied and interesting. Very steep gradient and the water moved along. Kept watching for kingfishers and other fish eaters as it was obvious numbers of trout were present. Came upon an aquaculture center. Workers were erecting chain link fence around the raceways (out-dated concrete ponds). Continued on the trail noting large trees and moss covered rocks and boulders. Indeed, was a scene from the Lord of the Rings movie. At the falls, we crossed over a bridge and then were able to use walkway to get down close to the water. Quite misty there. Supposedly, several locals have drowned there due to chilly temps and not being able to swim. Passed a dozen or so college age birders. Got back to lodge before rains began.
Sat under umbrella at patio and watched the hummingbirds (white-throated mountain-gem, volcano, scintillant, and magnificient). One male green violet-ear took ownership of chair arm next to us and was rather possessive of spot. At times, they would check out Darla’s orangish colored raincoat. Five species were noted. With relatively few guests present, lunch was from the menu. I had what the gals had the previous nite, bbq pork, parsley potatoes, tomato soup and leftover cake. Excellent. Rained on and off the afternoon. During one lull I was in the garden when other guest came over saying a male quetzal had just flown thru the garden into a tree past the cabins. He was excited and for good reason. We both watched the bird and then I got Darla.
More rain and then it really got serious. In the dining room the noise of rain on the roof was so loud normal conversation was not possible. I had the tomato soup and a repeat of the chicken sesame meal from the previous nite. Made a fire in the fireplace more for nostalgic sake than heat. Noted large spider on one piece being burned. It probably was on a log I had just carried in.
Darla and I sneaked out of the room around 5:30 am. checking activity in the garden. The edge of the apple orchard near the laundry building was active with tanagers, sparrows, woodcreepers and others. Then, we ventured up the driveway to the upper parking area and across the footbridge to other cabins. She spotted a male quetzal in a small tree at the bridge! Beautiful bird.
The rest of the morning we stayed near the lodge watching birds including hairy woodpecker on tree adjacent to the lounge area, red-tail hawk at cabin, and hummingbirds at the feeder. We ventured down the short forested trail to the next lodge. Met a very friendly collared redstart, more tanagers, and a pair of acorn woodpeckers preparing a nest cavity. After lunch Erik picked us up for the ride back to San Jose.
Great view from the front side of Hotel Bouganvillea. Beth really like the bathroom with its huge glass bowl as the sink. Ate in the lounge. Paid $48 for three dinners, two strawberry Fanta, one Sprite, one imperial beer, tax and gratuity. Also, paid the mandatory $26 per person departure tax. The $2 fee charged by the bank was well worth not having to stand in another line at the airport besides filling out the form while in another line. Left the hotel at 5 am for the airport. Long check-in line but afterwards time at the gate area was quite pleasant. Nice view of the mountains while listening to local musician play his guitar. Next time we might forgo the boxed breakfast prepared by the hotel for Burger King food at the airport.
Had a great trip and would not hesitate to use Costa Rica Gateway again. Saw or heard something like 180 bird species plus 2 or 3 toads and one lizard and the in room gecko.
Photos to follow in a few days.
Dick

Thanks for the report and all the details about what you did and saw. Bird heaven! Sounds like you had fun and got to relax at the same time.

We are going to CR for 2 weeks in early January (also flying out of Newark), and your report makes me all the more excited to go! Tried to get a reservation for a couple of nights at the Savegre lodge at the end of our trip but it was fully booked, so we switched gears and are staying in Orosi for those nights instead.

We've been debating whether one set of binoculars is enough for the two of us...but now I'm thinking maybe we need to take two. What do you think?

Also, did you get any innoculations before you went?

Much of the time I used the camera with the zoom lens instead of binocs but it was nice to have own pair on occassion.
No special innoculations. We checked around and thought such was unnecessary. Still under the influence of those we had gotten for trips to East Africa over the past ten years.
Have a great trip. January is not that far away.

Sounds wonderful - CR reminds me a lot of Switzerland too. Looking forward to seeing your pics.

Enjoyed your report - thanks for posting. Nice to know those quetzales are stilling hangin round Savegre. Brought back some nice memories of that place - and Marino. We need to go back to CR again and visit Rancho Naturalista.

Great report, hope to see photos soon. It really brought back wonderful memories of my trip last November to Savegre and Rancho N. Love both places, especially all the quetzals right outside our cabin door at Savegre, didn't have to work to see them at all!

The bathing pools at Rancho are pure heaven to a hummingbird enthusiast like me and such a delight to sit on the balcony and watch so many species. And the food is just top notch, never had a bad meal there, everything was delicious.

Thanks for sharing your report.

I'm off tomorrow to Argentina and Chile, have found an excellent place to visit in Puerto Iguazu - Jardin de las Picaflores. The hummingbird photos look awesome there!!

Wow, what an in depth report. Glad to know that Rancho N hasn't changed much in the years since we have been there. The hummingbirds were the most memorable for me there. Particularly watching them bathe in the pools.

Savegre is one of our favorite places to bring guests as it isn't too long a drive from our home. Almost a guarantee to see a quetzal. I agree, the food is so so but the people there are just wonderful and the newish bar area is lovely. For anyone going there in the future, we have enjoyed talking to the researchers at the Quetzal research center and had a bunch of them sleeping all over our floor last year when they came to visit us.