Taking the family to Cozumel for vacation (kids are 16 & 24). We really want some good snorkeling. Are there any places you can just get in the water for some good snorkeling without having to do a boat trip with a guide? Do most of the hotels offer equipment so you can just jump in the water and go? Any suggestions on where to stay? Is Chankanaab National Park a good area or should we go further north around Passion's Island? Any activities suggestions for our kids? Is this a fairly safe area if the kids want to venture out on their own? Any info will be greatly appreciated! <BR>Thanks, Cindy <BR>

Chankanaab is a good spot for snorkeling. The water is quite deep there, but it's very safe and you can always wear a snorkeling vest if you're worried. It can get crowded if there are cruise ships in town (and there usually are). We make sure we arrive early so we can get lounge chairs. The park is also very nice. You can take a cab there from town or your hotel. You can rent equipment there. I don't usually stay in big hotels, so I don't know about renting equipment at the hotels. Another area is Playa Corona. The water there is shallow. There's a small beach club - tables, chairs, restaurants, you can also rent equipment there. They now charge $5 US to use the facilities. We've been to Cozumel a few times and those are the 2 places we usually hit for snorkeling. I know that some people also snorkel off the beach to the Presidente hotel. The island is quite safe and the town is pleasant. There's lots of good restaurants, so I wouldn't recommend an all-inclusive. For activities, you might want to consider taking a ferry over to the mainland for an excursion to Playa del Carmen. From there, you could visit Tulum, as well as Ixcaret (which we really enjoyed, despite it being a theme park). I really like Cozumel - I never get bored there. <BR>

We recently stayed at Costa Club (formerly Fiesta Inn), which is on the southern edge of town and the snorkelling was good off the hotel's man-made beach. Further south near Chankanaab where the beaches are natural, would probably be even better. There is a very good website on Cozumel. It give masses of information on what to do, where to stay, trip reports, hotel and restaurant reviews, etc. <BR>www.travelnotes.cc/cozumel.html

Cindy, My husband and I go to Cozumel every winter for two or three weeks. Here is the Cozumel Information Sheet I've put together over the years for friends and family. Maybe it will help you. Cozumel is VERY safe. Your kids will have a lot of fun. Snorkeling can be done from nearly every beach on the populated side of the island - not the wild side. One problem that I have with snorkeling at Chankanab are the numbers of barracuda that are now attracted there because of the dolphin program. Its a bit unnerving. Isla de Passion is not a destination. Its nearly impossible to get to and surrounded by ugly mangro swamps. If you have more questions after reading this, drop me an email. <BR> <BR>A word about beaches, snorkeling and all inclusive hotels: Many Internet postings report that Cozumel has no nice beaches. This information is somewhat misleading. The western shore is hard black limestone called "ironshore". Some hotel beaches are man made. While some hotels don't have typical beaches, they do have beautiful white sand terraces that are wonderful for sunning. Seawalls surround these and the sand is trucked in. They are usually equipped with umbrellas for shade, sports facilities and snack bars. Entering the water is achieved by way of a sea ladder or steps. The water at entry will be quite clear and loaded with fish and coral. Many hotel do indeed have pretty beaches. These don't typically have the best coral reefs. There are several very pretty public beaches on the western side of the island; San Francisco, Playa Sol, Playa Corona and the amazing new Nache CoCom, where one can spend an afternoon (not good snorkeling). The entire eastern side of the island is made up of gorgeous beaches, but some are dangerous due to undertow and very trashy from cruiseship dumping. So don't get hung up about beaches. <BR> <BR>I also disagree that Cozumel is a "divers only" destination. We spend several weeks there every year and have done so for more than 10 years. I don't dive and do not feel in the least deprived. The snorkeling is easily accessible and a spectacular way to inhabit the water. There are so many activities to do and things to see that even if you don't dive or snorkel you'll enjoy a wonderful vacation. <BR> <BR>Another real benefit of Cozumel is its fantastic choice of restaurants at comparatively modest prices. We don't recommend all-inclusive meal plans. They are more suited to islands where multiple food options do not exist or where it is dangerous to leave the premises, like Jamaica. Indeed, one of the great joys of Cozumel is exploring the fine dining establishments and the wide variety of cuisine available. That said, here we go. <BR> <BR>A few web sites with Cozumel information: <BR>www.islacozumel.net <BR>www.aldora.com <BR>www.divetravel.net <BR>www.cozumel.net <BR>ws.cozumelvillas.com <BR> <BR>This & That: <BR>· Upon arrival at the airport, you will be required to take a mini-bus to your hotel. Taxis are not allowed to pick up passengers at the airport, only drop them off. The bus transportation costs are equal to about $12 per person US and you may have to pay this in pesos. I suggest you exchange a few dollars at your home airport or bank before leaving in order to accommodate the fare. It's not the best exchange rate, but its nice to have a little local currency on hand. <BR> <BR>· You will need the equivalent of $15 US arrival tax and $12 US departure tax in pesos per person. This is collected at the airport, unless it has already been collected in advance by your airline. Ask your travel agent. <BR> <BR>· Hotels will do money exchanges for you, but it's not the best rate on the island. However, it is never worthwhile to stand in line on the day the bank is open to exchange money. The wait is tremendous and the rate is only minutely better. The best places are the little "hole-in-the-wall" exchange houses. There are also cash machines all over Cozumel now. They accept most cash cards and disperse money in pesos - think about this carefully when you tell the machine how much money you want - you want pesos not dollars. 200 pesos only equals about $23 US Do the math first. Current exchange rates can be calculated at http://www.xe.net/currency. <BR> <BR>· There is no need to rent a car for an entire week. Taxicabs are plentiful and cheap. Cabs charge a flat rate, approximately $2 US for two people to go in to town from the North hotel zone. Higher from further destinations. (About $10 US for two from the El Presidente southern zone.) The town is small and once you reach the center everything is within an easy 5-6-block walk. It is very safe to walk around San Miguel. <BR> <BR>· If you do rent, work with one of the car rental companies in town. They are much cheaper than the hotel rental desks. Be careful of the VW Beetles, they're not always in the best mechanical condition (actually most cars aren't, so check them carefully before you leave the rental office). Ask for a newer car. You should be able to get a Jeep or Geo Tracker for about $55 US per day. In 1999, I got a Tracker for $270 per week plus $30 in tax (which must be paid in cash) from Dollar Rental at the airport. If you're willing to listen to one of the many time-share sales pitches, you can get a certificate for a $10 one-day car rental. Be careful however, this can turn into a scam with the rental companies. They'll try very hard to bait & switch by saying that they don't have any of the cars that your certificate is good for or showing you a real junker, then trying to upgrade to a more expensive car. Cozumel is a large cruise ship port. Cars are always cheaper on non-cruise ship days. Sometimes there aren't any cars available on cruise ship days. Reserve ahead from the island, but not from the States (its much more expensive). The best rate in Feb. 2000 was from Smart Car Rental on the main square. New VW beetles were going for $20 per day with a coupon from the Internet site. <BR> <BR>· If you rent a car, be aware that there are only two gas stations on the island and they have very limited hours of operation. Ask where and when you can get gas and don't let your tank get low. There are no gas stations on the far side of the island. <BR> <BR>· Traveling to the "other side" of the island: Do not rent a moped to travel to the far side of the island. It is a very long trip by moped and it's very windy-even on good days. The trip can be uncomfortable and dangerous on a moped. Taxi drivers will take you to the other side and wait with you at any stops for about $35 for the day. Better yet, rent a car for just one day. Go to the east side of the island on a day when it's windy or rainy on the west side. Drive south around the island. At the rode to the lighthouse there is a new park entrance - new in 2000. Back on the main road continue on for lunch at Chen Rio - good food, lovely safe beach (no undertow) or Coconuts a cliffside tropical oasis, spectacular views (this was up for sale recently and may or may not be open). If you have time, stop at San Gervasio - the most important Mayan ruin on Cozumel but quite small compared to the mainland ruins. A small entry fee ($3) with a nice guided tour. Don't buy silver here, no matter what they tell you, silver is cheaper in town. (see notes in shopping section) <BR> <BR>I'm not a diver and my husband is newly certified, so most of this information is geared to snorkeling. There are several good Internet sites containing Cozumel diving information. Suffice to say that the diving is spectacular. Palancar Reef is the second largest reef in the world. (We just returned from the Great Barrier Reef and my husband says Cozumel is equal for diving.) <BR> <BR>· Chancanab National Park is the big tourist attraction for snorkeling. Every cruise ship dumps a million people there to snorkel and for a time the fish and coral were badly abused. In fact, at one time you weren't allowed to snorkel in the actual lagoon even though that's the attraction. The park has been refurbished now and is in much better condition. There are wonderful fish and coral to see as well as botanical gardens and a reproduced Mayan village. (If you go, avoid it mid-week when the most cruise ships are in port - its also good to avoid shopping in town on those days). The park has added a "swim with the dolphins" program. I believe the cost is about $120 per hour. A friend saw spotted rays with 3-4 ft. wing span here. We've seen lots of barracuda here. <BR> <BR>· Two other good choices for snorkeling: <BR> (1.) Take your gear in a cab to a Northern zone hotel, like the Coral Princess or Puerto del Sol condos. Walk in and snorkel from their "beach". This is a very beautiful stretch of live coral reef. The fish are spectacular! The coral wall is breathtaking. No crowds! Let the current take you on a drift snorkel starting at Puerto del Sol condos and getting out at El Cozumeleno hotel. It's a nice easy ride with lots to see. <BR> <BR> (2.) Book one of the full or half day snorkeling tours. (Cost $40 per person) Tours from the central and northern zones travel to Santa Rosa Reef, Tormentos and Yucab Reefs usually providing drinks and lunch. Tours from Diamonds Resort in the southern zone go to three reefs much farther out. One is covered with star fish, one is the Palancar Shallows. These are excellent ways to see some of the reefs that are farther from shore. The large reefs contain more diversity of fish and coral. The brain and fan corals are much larger (but not as colorful) as those closer to shore. The fish are also larger (grouper and triggerfish, sometimes turtles or rays) and dolphins are known to play around the boat wake. It's a fun day. <BR> <BR>· I highly recommend that you consider buying your own snorkel gear. Many reefs are very accessible from shore. You can snorkel every day (we snorkel three times a day). The cost of renting gear is high ($7 - $10 per day for mask & tube only) and the equipment is not really sterilized. The quality of rented gear isn't the greatest either. It's very important to get a proper fit and seal on the snorkel mask otherwise you'll have salt water in your eyes all the time and will hate the whole experience. The current is somewhat strong along the coast, so fins are a good idea. SportMart (or other equal quality sporting goods store) has adequate sets of snorkel equipment (mask, tube, and fins) in the $25-$35 range. I've even seen them at Target at times. Quality equipment is a good investment. Buying equipment on the island is somewhat expensive, but excellent quality. Most is dive quality equipment, masks will start in the $50 range, tubes are $20+. We like Michelle's Dive Shop on 5 Av. S. & Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas. Make sure you look for silicone masks. This is the softest rubber with the best seal. You want it to fit snug but not tight. The mask should never leave deep marks on your face after you wear it. Test the seal by placing the mask on your face (without the strap around your head) inhale through your nose and hold your breath. If the mask stays on your face, its good, there are no leaks so water won't get in. Make sure that the snorkel tube mouthpiece is also made of soft silicone rubber. It will be in your mouth and rubbing on your gums, you want it to be as soft as possible. I don't recommend a tube with an air expel unless you get a good one. On less expensive tubes these tend to leak - its not necessary, so just get a very simple design. We like the fins that fit over your entire foot, instead of the ones with a strap around your heel. The shoe style won't rub on your foot and make blisters. This sounds like a lot, but all are available inexpensively in the US. <BR> <BR> · Another source for snorkeling equipment before your go is West Marine. This is a catalogue from California. I have ordered from them before and find their merchandise to be good quality. I have their 1997 catalogue and they offer several options - PVC masks for as little as $7.99 each, PVC tubes for as little as $7.99, PVC masks & snorkel sets for $14.99 and fins for $19.99. They offer silicone mask & snorkel sets for $29.95, silicone masks for $21.95 and silicone snorkels for $19.95. They are also offering a very nice looking silicone "five piece dive combo" for $51.50. You might want to give them a call at 800-538-0775 for a catalogue. <BR> <BR>· If you're not a great swimmer or are a bit nervous about getting into the water to snorkel, consider using a water skier's belt. It is a simple floatation device that fits around the waist. It adds just enough buoyancy to let you feel really secure, yet doesn't hold your head up at the exaggerated angle of a collar style life vest. I'm not a good swimmer and this works well for me. Most belts are inexpensive and are easy to pack. I just can't say enough about the beauty underwater in Cozumel. Do whatever it takes to make yourself feel secure enough to enjoy the spectacular sights. <BR> <BR>There is now a new sport on the island called "Snuba". It is a combination of scuba and snorkeling. One uses standard snorkel gear but breathes from a tank that floats on the water's surface. The tank has a long hose, thus allowing the snuba participant to descend about 20 ft. underwater. This is done under the supervision of an instructor. Contact Sea Sports for more information once you reach the island. <BR> <BR>· I suggest that you purchase an underwater guidebook for the trip. A good, inexpensive one is "Guide to Corals & Fishes of Florida, the Bahamas and the Caribbean" by Idaz Greenberg. It is a small (65 pg.) paperback book that costs about $8 in the US or $10 in the local dive shops. This book has good color illustrations for most of the fish, coral and sea creatures that you will encounter. Being able to identify the underwater inhabitants really increases the fun. ISBN # 0-913008-08-7 published by Seahawk Press, Miami, Florida. <BR> <BR>If you want to take underwater pictures, those one-use cameras work pretty well with these caveats: only use them on very sunny days, don't try to take pictures of things more than 10 feet down. Light is lost underwater very quickly and the further down the object the darker your picture will be. More than 10 feet and its just not worth the effort. The cameras are much cheaper at K-Mart in the states, than at souvenir shops on the island. I like the Fuji brand best. <BR> <BR> (We have a full condo and stay for 3-4 weeks each year, so some of the following information is related to stocking and using a kitchen.) <BR> <BR>· Sodas and soft drinks are somewhat expensive on the island. We always take powdered lemonade mix - you can also buy this in the local grocery. (Lemonade packages look like LIMEADE - lemons are green in Mexico) If you're a beer drinker or want a case of Coke, you might want to ask the hotel about getting cases delivered from the beverage wholesaler - much cheaper. <BR> <BR>· It's difficult to get really good coffee on the island. If this is important to you, bring your own. Decafe is usually Sanka, except at Pizza Rolandi (now Guido's Pizza). A limited selection of coffee beans are now available at The Coffee Bean shop (Calle 3 Sur between Avenida Melgar and 5 Ave. Sur) and some pre-packaged coffee can be found at San Francisco grocery store. <BR> <BR>· The BEST stores for everything (supermarket, liquor, butcher, bakery, deli, hardware, Wal-Mart all rolled into one) is San Francisco at 30 Ave. Norte and Avenida Benito Juarez or Ched Roi at the south end of main street. They are the cheapest places for liquor in town and have a good selection of wine too. <BR> <BR>· I don't recommend placing long distance calls from the "Calling Stations" in town. It's a real racket. One call cost me $75 when I got back home. The hotels also tack on a big service charge if you call from your room even if it says that you are connected to AT&T. Some hotels now have pay phones in their lobbies that will accept AT&T or any other calling card service thus bypassing the hotel surcharges. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards to use in these pay phones at a rate of $1.00 per minute.....no strings. Just ask at the front desk. Or check with your own long distance company before leaving the states. Some have decent one-rate International plans for calls from Mexico. <BR> <BR>· Tours to the mainland: Tulum, a walled Mayan city facing the ocean + Xel Ha, a natural lagoon for snorkeling - $80 per person. Xcaret, (like Disneyland in Mexico) - drift in underground rivers, swim with dolphins (not included in price and difficult to book), orchid farm, wild birds, butterfly pavilion, food & more $60 per person. Fly to Chichen Itza - 5-hour pkg. includes flight over the jungle, tour & lunch. $100 per person. (It's a very long, very difficult drive to Chichen Itza.) <BR> <BR>· If you like fishing, try a day of deep sea or tag along with some locals for the day. My husband and friends went fishing with locals last year. They just went to the town dock (across the main street from the Kentucky Fried Chicken) and negotiated with the fishermen. Our three guys went out in one of those boats that look like an overgrown rowboat with an outboard motor with three local fishermen. They used hand lines (no rods or reels), old sparkplugs as sinkers, big old handmade hooks and junk fish for bait, but caught more fish than ever before. They loved the local adventure. Very barebones. Bring your own food and drinks, take lots of sunscreen (no canopy) and bring a sturdy pair of old gloves for handling the lines. If you want a little local flavor in your vacation, this is it. <BR> <BR>· In case of a medical emergency, life is much easier if you have Xerox copies of: <BR>* your health care provider's insurance cards <BR> (There is an American doctor on the island and a very good hospital) <BR>* your drivers licenses <BR> (Leave the real one in your hotel safe. If stopped for a driving offense, they'll want your license. Better not to have it available to surrender.) <BR>* your airline tickets (keep copies separate from the actual tickets) <BR>* your traveler's checks receipts (keep copies separate from traveler's checks) <BR>* a contact list of family or friends in the U.S <BR> <BR>· Other items to think about bringing: <BR>Tee shirts to snorkel in (the sun will blister your back very quickly) <BR>Rain jackets, maybe even a small umbrella <BR>Good sunglasses <BR>Carmex or other lip protection <BR>Sun tan lotion (it's expensive on the island). <BR>Skin care lotion is good after a long day in salt water & sun <BR>Lots of shampoo for getting the salt water out <BR>We wash our swimsuits in soap at the end of every day; otherwise they get stiff from saltwater. <BR>Lots of zip lock bags, pinch style clothes pins, rubber bands, twist ties, super glue and string. You can fix darned near anything with these in hand. <BR>If you stay in a condo, bring a sharp paring knife. The ones provided are always dull as a spoon. <BR> <BR>· While you're on the island, carry something in your wallet or purse with your hotel's name on it. <BR> <BR>· You do not need to speak Spanish. However, if you attempt any Spanish at all, you will get the most helpful replies and grateful attitude. We have never found a place where our very limited Spanish and a few hand gestures couldn't get our message across. Learn to say please (por favor) and thank you (gracias). These words will take you far. A fun book on vacation Spanish is "Spanish for Gringos" by Wm. Harvey. It is part of the Barron's Educational Series book. The thin softback edition cost $8.95 in the US ISBN# 0-8120-4434-7 <BR> <BR> Favorite Restaurants: <BR>I mention here a mix of upscale, mid-range, and low-end places that we like. We discover new places every year. The island offers everything from vegetarian to Asian, Kentucky Fried Chicken to waffle houses, even Cajun. If you are adventuresome or speak a little more than "shopping" Spanish I recommend you explore as many local eateries as possible. The food is wonderful and really cheap. For instance, we like to buy grilled chicken from the street vendors on Ave. 30. For $3 US you get a half chicken, a quart of cole slaw made with jicima, and a platter full of spaghetti. It's a great cheap meal. Stars (*) equal especially romantic restaurants on a scale of one (lesser) to three (most). <BR> <BR>· **Poncho's Backyard (Ave. Rafael Melgar between Calles 8 & 10N) Very beautiful and romantic, Excellent, "healthy" Mexican food (cooked with less fat) good Mexican wines. ($15 per person) <BR> <BR>· El Moro (75 Bis Norte No. 124 entre 2 y 4) A must. Funky family owned and operated. Out in the suburbs - take a cab because it's tricky to find. Wonderful grilled seafood. Open kitchen so you can watch the cooks. Christmas decorations up all year long. ($20 for two people) Order the Zacharias Special for two. It's a lot of great seafood. <BR> <BR>· La Mission (Ave. Juarez 23) Lovely old mission restored to a restaurant. Good grilled meat and seafood. Open, tiled kitchen to watch cooks prepare food. Somewhat touristy, they tend to rush people through. They have now opened a second restaurant at Ave. Rosado Salas y 5. It is very touristy. I like the original on Ave Juarez Sur better. <BR> <BR>· ***LaCoCay (the Firefly) Restaurant: (Calle 17 20 y 20 Ave. Bis) Phone 52-987-2.55.33 This is probably the only restaurant on Cozumel where you would need a reservation. It is the most romantic place with 10-12 tables and open air windows looking out on a lighted park and Spanish cathedral (Corpus Christi). Specializing in seafood, beef, and pasta it is owned by a highly regarded restaurateur from Montreal. Fabulous food. Order the chocolate souffle for dessert. It's worth the wait. This is one of the most expensive restaurants on the island. ($25 each with wine desert & tip) <BR> <BR>· *Pizza Rolandi (now Guido's Pizza) (Ave. Rafael Melgar between Calles 6 & 8 N) One of the prettiest indoor courtyards (you have to go all the way to the back). Specials are wood burning oven-baked pizzas (they're great) and pastas. Excellent sangria. They have the best coffee (actual brewed decaf espresso, not Sanka which is what you get most places when you order decaf) and great homemade coconut ice cream topped with cassis or dark chocolate sauce. Go here for dessert, even if you eat elsewhere. (dinner $12 each) <BR> <BR>· Museo de la Isla De Cozumel (the Island Museum) (Av. Rafael Melgar between Calles 4 & 6N) Make sure you have breakfast here. The restaurant is on a balcony on top of the museum. All-you-can-eat breakfast is $4 US. The view of the bay is spectacular. There are always pelicans skim-fishing along this stretch. It's a great breakfast show. Do not go here on cruise ship days the place is packed. <BR> <BR>· El Turix (the Dragonfly) (Next door to LaCoCay @ Calle 17 20 y 20 Ave. Bis) phone 987 2 52 34 Authentic Yuatecan Cuisine. The dearest couple, Rafael and Maruca run this small very casual restaurant. They are very friendly and willing to help with selections. I suggest you order one of everything on the menu. It's just the right amount of food for two people and cost only a few pesos. We loved the quesadillas with pumpkin blossoms inside. The fruit drinks are a bit sweet. They prepare excellent seafood paella on special nights (cost of paella is $30 for two, which is actually enough food for 4-6 people). Call for schedule. <BR> <BR>· Taco Diaz (Ave 30 Norte at Calle 2 Norte) Great little local taco stand. Order the "gringas" and "frijoles" (bean soup - not refried) its great. No English spoken here, but very friendly. The fruitas "hymiaca" drink is made from an island flower and is very good.....no alcohol in it. (Very, very cheap) <BR> <BR>· **La Verandah (Calle 4 Norte between 5a Ave. Norte and 10a Ave. Norte) Caribbean-style island house with a front porch and garden. Dining inside or out (the candlelit garden is gorgeous at night). International menu includes fish & chips, barbecue chicken, roast-beef, fajitas, stir-fried vegetable, rack of lamb and grilled seafood. (Moderate prices) <BR> <BR>· Casa Denis ( 1 Sur 16 on the backside of the main square, across from the open-air flea market) This is a fun place and our personal favorite. Only 10 or 12 tables outside, more inside. Cheap, good Mexican food - tacos, enchiladas, chicken mole. Fun to sit and people watch outside. It looks a little tacky, but don't be shy. It's good and clean. (Lunch or dinner about $6 per person) The salsa is killer hot. <BR> <BR>· Pepe's Grill (Ave. Rafael Melgar - that's main street - at Ave. Rosado Salas ) Another good upscale choice. Eat in the upstairs window tables. This is the place to go when you crave beef or a very good salad bar. (Dinner for two $33 with wine, desert & tip) The bottled water on the tables cost extra. <BR> <BR>· La Choza (Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas @ 10 Ave. Sur): Some of the best seafood anywhere and good traditional dishes too. (Moderate prices) <BR> <BR>· La Cucina Italiana Ristorante (Calle 2 Norte at 10 Ave. Norte) Wonderful homemade pastas and fresh seafood. Beautiful outdoor setting. Very romantic. Upscale service. VERY slow service. <BR> <BR>· Los Gavilanes Grill (upstairs at Benito Juarex Ave. between 10 & 15): Caribbean seafood and Mexican plates. Lobster and king crab (ask what the price is for each specific display out front). This is just as good as La Mission (across the street), cheaper and they don't rush you. <BR> <BR>· Rock & Java (Ave. Rafael E. Melgar {main street} in the southern hotel zone near Plazas Los Glorias): "To-die-for" desserts and coffee. The very best carrot cake I've ever eaten. <BR> <BR>· Coral Princess Hotel Poolside Bar The best burgers and fries on the island. <BR> <BR>· Lobster There are all kinds of places to eat lobster. Some for as little as $10. Try Lobster House across the street from hotels Playa Azul & Cabanas del Caribe in the northern hotel zone they serve lobster exclusively. Or try Joe's Lobster (Ave. 10 at Ave. Rosado Salas) Excellent raggae music and good lobster. <BR> <BR>· Many of the island hotels have wonderful restaurants also. You might want to try the El Presidente or the Sol Cabanas del Caribe. <BR> <BR>· Etc: There is also a Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut, Dairy Queen, Subway, Planet Hollywood, HardRock Cafe, Hooters, Natural (vegetarian), Wok N. Roll (Asian), and the Western Grill (meat). <BR> <BR>· Don't be afraid to eat or drink in Cozumel. The water in all the hotels and restaurants is bottled and purified. We've never had a problem with water, ice or food and we eat in some pretty funky places. <BR> <BR>Keep in mind that things change on the island, so there might be new places and some of these could be gone since we were there last. I try to keep the list pretty up-to-date. <BR> <BR>Let's go shopping. - Vamos de copras! <BR> <BR>· The Farmers Market (Calle Adolofo Rosado Salas between 20 and 25, inside the white building on the left) A true local market. Great produce, herbs, meat, fish, and "to go" food from the shop owners stalls at the back. Wander all through, many tourist items can be bought for a fraction of the cost of downtown. Wonderful photo opportunities here - look for the whole pig's heads. Go before noon. <BR> <BR>· Los Cinco Soles (Av. Rafael Melgar 27 between Calles 8 & 10 N) the best craft shopping. Notice their guaranty, if you find an item cheaper, they'll match the price. Be sure to take in their art and furniture galleries, they are only open a few days a week - usually when the ships are in town. This place also has an extraordinary tequila shop and shot bar. There are 100+ different kinds of tequila from $2 to $700 per bottle. You can purchase tastes at the bar before you buy. I think they have the best prices on silver jewelry here. <BR> <BR>· PECH Artesanias (30 Ave. between Calle 8 & 10 Norte) if you like the Talavera handpainted ceramic dinnerware at Mi Casa and Cinco Soles, try this "outlet" store for better prices. <BR> <BR>· Bakery Zermatt (Calle 4 N at Av. 5N) the best bakery in town. <BR> <BR>· Explora (Ave. Benito Juarez at Calle 2 N) great clothes. <BR> <BR>· Mi Casa (Av. Rafael Melgar between Calles Rosado Salas & S 3) hand-painted pottery, tableware, vases, pewter and silver. Beautiful. <BR> <BR>· Tee shirts are always cheaper in the funky little shops that run along the backside of the square than they are in the tourist shops up front. (Ave.10) <BR> <BR>· Be careful if you buy silver jewelry. I've found the prices to be no better than the US Make sure you know something about the quality if you invest. One of my favorite places is Taxco Silver Factory @ Benito Juarex Ave. between 10 & 15. Good quality, different designs and fare prices. <BR> <BR>Vaya con Dios! Que disfrute! <BR>Tonna <BR> <BR> And now a word of my own about coral reefs. <BR> <BR>"We do not inherit the earth from our parents. <BR>It is lent to us by our children," <BR>so goes an old Chinese proverb. This is especially true of the underwater world and coral reefs. The world's reefs are being destroyed at such a rapid rate that by the time our children inherit this world, there may be nothing under the sea worth viewing. <BR> <BR>What Can One Person Do? <BR> <BR>Keep hands, flippers and equipment off of coral reefs and marine animals when diving, snorkeling, or fishing. Even minimal human contact can break or destroy coral polyps and injure fish and animals. <BR> <BR>Don't stir up sediment - it cuts off sunlight needed for photosynthesis. The coral reef begins with algae that use sunlight to make food. The algae nourish the tiny coral animals known as polyps. Coral polyps secrete a hard, stony shell of calcium carbonate that builds up over time becoming the actual coral reef. <BR> <BR>Keep coral and marine creatures alive and underwater for your next visit - don't bring home collected souvenirs. Buy an underwater photograph instead. The shells you see on the ocean floor have living creatures inside. <BR> <BR>Don't throw trash into the water. Plastic bags wrap around branching corals, causing them to suffocate and die. Bags, six-pack rings and cigarette butts kill great numbers of marine animals through entanglement and ingestion. <BR> <BR>Protect your skin from the sun with a shirt whenever possible. Oily sunscreen can contaminate and suffocate corals. <BR> <BR>Don't urinate in the water near coral reefs. Coral polyps, reef fish and other sea creatures are susceptible to disease-carrying bacteria and viruses from human contamination. <BR> <BR>Don't anchor on the reefs. A thoughtless toss of an anchor can easily destroy years of coral growth. A dragging anchor rope from a boat swinging in the current can chafe through or snap off fragile coral branches in a few minutes. <BR> <BR> Dive with responsible operators that are committed to keeping coral reefs alive. <BR> <BR>Please help preserve the coral for future generations. Thanks <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

The above is a great review of Cozumel. As I said in my previous note, I really enjoy the island. One additional point is that they have a wonderful carnival in the winter (same time as the other carnivals) - we've been to it 2 or 3 times and always enjoy the parades. This past year, we made sure to book our trip so that we were there for carnival.

We stayed at El Presidente, great snorkeling off of their beach, nice pool, great food, great staff, very safe. We took one pair of fins & mask, and rented another, got home and bought second set as it's no big deal to pack the basic type. Have a great time. Don't let the natives at the airport talk you into renting a moped or jeep, a time share tour is hidden in the deal.

Cindy, <BR> <BR>I highly recommend Chankanab Lagoon for <BR>snorkeling. It cost $8US entrance to <BR>the national park. There are dressing <BR>room, restrooms, lockers(free), palapas, <BR>walking botanical trails. Very peace- ful. Snorkeling is great...starts out <BR>at 15ft. There are statues under water <BR>and a floating dive platform of shore to <BR>climb out on to sun and rest for a while. Good coral heads. I love it <BR>there.

We're also thinking of Cozumel for a family vacation. The information given by TC on 5/29 was wonderful. More in- depth information than I can get from a travel book. Great tips,too. I'm printing it out and will take it along if we go.I appreciate the time and effort it took to type this up. THANKS!

tc, you have way too much free time to write such a long reply.. get a job!!!!

Dear "travel expert"; How do you know that writing about my travel experiences isn't my job? For your enlightenment, this is a cut & past copy (quite easy to do) of an info sheet I have put together for friends and family over all the years we've been going to Cozumel. I have shared it with many non-related travelers as well as those close to me. I try to update the information each year when we return from our annual stay. When asked, I will continue to post my first hand knowledge because that IS the purpose of Fodor's travel boards. Might I suggest that YOU are the one with way too much free time. It is a shame that you have no first hand travel knowledge to share - only barbs for those who do. Might you be jealous?

Thank-you TC for all of the wonderful information on Cozumel! We are planning a trip in April. Have you heard anything about the reef club all inclusive resort south of San Miguel?

TC's advice is top notch. I printed her tips and used the info on our trip last February. She knows what she is talking about!

Topping this since I can't send it directly to posters due to new registration format. This is an older version, so a few things have changed - restaurants with new names, like Pizza Rolandi is now Guido's. But most info is still good. Hope it helps.

I just returned froma week in Coz - my first visit there. You've gotten lots of great advice already - TC in particular has many good comments and much useful info. I appreciate her info and also the direct comments we shared by email. AS promised, I will be posting a report on my trip but due to business obligations, won't have tim to post it until later this week. I will comment that if an &quot;El Norte&quot; is in town (a cool Nortern wind) and the water looks choppy, call Chankanaab first to see if snorkeling will be allowed that day. The first two days of our visit we were unable to snorkel due to the waves. Instead, we went to Nachi Com Com, a public beach club just south of Chankanaab. Great space with a beautiful beach, jacuzzi and pool (pool was unheated and a bit too cold for comfortable swimming). No entyry fee - just buy a drink or some food from their fairly reasonably priced menu and you can hang out as long as you. It lacks the great snorkelign of Chankanaab but with free entry it's an ideal place to spend part of a day.

Hi Owen, Welcome home. Can't wait to read your report. We're headed down very soon and I'm eager to hear about your trip and any new finds. TC

Updates from our 2003 Vacation: <BR>-A new VW beetle from Smart Rental went for $28 per day this year. Be sure to ask for a NEW car if you use these guys. The convertibles are always made from older sedans so are the worst cars of the bunch. Whoever you rent from, take a few photos of the car at the time you sign the rental agreement. We have found this prevents any discussions about who put dents in the car at the time its returned.<BR>-Chancanab Park continues to improve and is a good place to spend an afternoon in the water. There are also lots of other great beach/restaurant areas all along the southern coast like Mr. Sanchos, San Francisco, Playa Sol, Nachi Cocom. They have all added lots of improvements.<BR>-Many hotels are now secured with gates and guards making it impossible to wander in and swim and snorkel from their shores like before.<BR>-If you don't swim well, I've always recommended a water ski belt for security. Now I've discovered the warmth and safety of a wet suit. They can be rented from any dive shop and make a great flotation device - much cooler looking than a life preserver.<BR>-Ched Rui is the grocery store of choice now. San Francisco has a much smaller selection. Ched Rui also has a Mall attached to it complete with a state of the art movie theater with movies in English. Great for rainy days.<BR>-Lots of new restaurants: For those who can't stand to be gone for too long, there are now two Burger Kings, several sushi places, and McDonalds on the island.<BR>-Ponchos' Backyard has really slipped in its quality. Although its a beautiful restaurant, we don't think the food is worth the price any longer.<BR>-La Mission has moved and is now located on Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas just off the main street.<BR>-La Cucina Italian has closed. The owners have a new - very upscale - place near the town square called Ambar. Its quite New York in style. We didn't eat there but it looks great.<BR>-a great new place for breakfast or lunch is Coffeelia on Calle 7 near the waterfront. The Dutch style crepes are amazing.<BR>-loved a new very little restaurant called Especias on Calle 5 Sur at Ave. 10. Excellent food; fish with a light cilantro sauce and deliciously prepared filet of beef for $9 US. Outstanding. Call for a reservation as there are only four tables. 044-987-876-15-58.<BR>-Found a new deli with many American offerings. Pacsa Deli at the corner of Calle 2 Sur and 50 Ave. Norte. Many island restaurants purchase here.<BR>-had one meal at a place called Manati. Many on this board have liked it - we didn't. Our four dinners were all different and all bad. From island insiders we heard that the original chef has left and the cooking chores have been taken over by his sister. Not a good thing in our opinion.<BR>-you can finally get good coffee at Chiapas on Calle 2 Norte. See Owens report elsewhere on this board all about great coffee in Cozumel.<BR>Can't think of anything else right off hand. If you have specific questions, send me an email: [email protected]<BR>TC

Topping for Neen.

Some additional observations about Cozumel.<BR>I find the best coffee cafe on the island is Cafe San Agustin at Calle 10 Norte #299. Excellent choice of coffees and teas as well as pastries and breads, with very good service in several rooms or outdoors on a beautiful patio. I hesitate to mention it since it is mostly undiscoved by the masses of tourists on the island!<BR>I find the prices of softs drinks and beer to be much the same as the U.S. If buying beer in bottles, be advised the deposit is almost as much of the beer so either buy in cans or return the bottles! Would also suggest you try the local drinks such as Tamarindo or Jamaica which are often surved by the locals and the price is low!<BR>I have not paid an airport arrival or departure tax in many years so doubt is you will need to be concerned with this. <BR>If you must have it, McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut,etc.are in Cozumel. KFC and the Dairy Queen have been closed for some time. Casa Denis is very nice (in the center)--if you want to people watch, sit in the front--if you want to eat with the locals, sit in the back on the shaded patio and enjoy delicious empanadas, etc.<BR>Enjoy!

We stayed at the intercontential and the cab fare to town was 7$. Cabs were plentful and cheap in January. Must eat at La Mission, kids will like the amimals, and some of the best food we had there. The breakfast at the intercontietial was great! The beach was nice water clear and lots of fish. The restaurant will give you bread to feed them. They were cute fish. The service at the pool and beach was great! Don't let anyone talk to you about hidden timeshares, act like you speak some other foriegn langugae and they leave you alone. Very safe, clean and fun. ENJOY!

TC: We will be going on a cruise with one day in Cozumel with our children (ages 10 &amp; 12). Where would you take the kids for just one day to get the best snorkeling? Is Chankanaab park a good idea? The kids have never been snorkeling or to Cozumel before.