FIRST of all, someone might help me to post this TRIP REPORT on OAXACA in a better way(more places: I'dlike it to appear in "Latin America" "Mexico" and "Oaxaca" if possible.

I've posted last evening on the flights and safety.

now, HOTELS

And by the way, we ate everything, but did not drink the water. We had NO tummy problems.

With a lot of help from Fodorites, we decided on the PARADOR SAN MIGUEL. this proved to be a superior choice: mid range price wise (about $135 double) in a great location (2 blocks from Zocolo) very nice mix of tourists and Mexicans.

There was a restaurant, which wasn't great but which was more than adequate, and very handy at times of fatigue.

Rooms were spotless, though on the whole, SMALL; staff young, very sweet and friendly, helpful, etc.

If anyone wants to choose this hotel, I can give you much detail about which rooms to try for, etc.

In the end I think this was the very best place one could stay.

I researched lots of other hotels while I was there, and checked out a rental called CASA NANCY for a friend. A beautiful house in a good location.

Therefore I have comments on many places:

CAMINO REAL: this is supposedly THE best place in town. I would be furious if I paid $350 a night to stay there.

The place is beautiful, and has many courtyards full of bugambilias, etc. but lousy attitude, poor service at restaurant, not simpatico at all.

However, pretty good location.

CASA OAXACA: I guess it's a great little place - but we could never get a look at it, while everyother hotel warmly welcomed us to come in and look around and see rooms, etc.

(CASA OAXACA RESTAURANT has moved to a different location, but it's attempt to be upscale and sophisticated apparently flops from time to time,or all the time acc. to our companions, who went there for a meal, and found it so awful, that the chef decided not to charge them.)

HOTEL DE LA NORIA: on Hidalgo, near the northeast side of the Zocolo looked like an excellent choice with very pleasant decor. this is another hotel I would choose another time.

PARADOR DEL DOMINICO: this is a surprise, a Best Western, on Pino Suarez, very near Sto. Domingo and the Botanical Gardens, in a great quiet location. The vibes here were great. it has all the bells and whistles, AND a beautiful colonial courtyard, not a hitch in the decor, a cute little restaurant, at under $100 double. I can't speak for service or food.

LAS BUGAMBILIAS: We were treated to a tour by an enthusiastic family member, and I can easily see the great popularity of this v.v.pleasant and clean family run B & B. I would choose it on another visit,just for the food.

MARQUES DEL VALLE: this is a big hotel right on the Zocolo, and I would not choose it for this reason alone, because you really can't get away from the noise, and it is too big. food very so-so.

HOTEL LOS LAURELES: This is a gem, more expensive, right up there with Camino Real, but so much nicer, it's hard to describe.Lovely large rooms. Gorgeous central gardens and superior views of the mountains. good chef (we had lunch there) in an expansive pleasant setting. BIGGEST DRAWBACK (which they don't tell you) is that it is way out of town, up in San Felipe del Agua. Probably a 15 min. cab ride at least. But, if I had a car, I'd stay here.

More later on FOOD - TOURS - PEOPLE

Hi Betsy, I am enjoying your travelogue !! THE information on lodging is most useful. I do not remember the Parador San Miguel. I totally agree with your impresion on Camino Real, I had a look at the rooms and they were dark and small.
We had a look and a drink in Casa Oaxaca and it was very exclusive and very nice. True it is hard to get in we were invited but they do not even have a sign at the door if I recall correctly.
We did stay in Las Buganbilias,stayed in one of the upscale rooms at the second floor, and although I do not care for b&b this was the exception that makes the rule. It was very , very good. At the time it was only 80. La Olla, was wonderful too andit was of course very handy to have it as the b&b restaurant.

In regard to your posting questions:

1) There is only one section, Latin America. Selecting Mexico means only that people who choose to filter the section to show only Mexican information will see it.

2) The preferred method is to post all your information to one thread, so people don't need to look for the different installments.

Really appreciate the detailed hotel information.

Hi Taconic Traveler! Look forward to hearing more about your trip. I have such amazing memories of celebrating Day in the Dead in Oaxaca -- even twenty-five years later (yikes!) I remember it well, so I can imagine Christmas there was very special, too. Sorry your flight down was such a mess.

Fra Diavolo: thanks for the tip. I think you're right. I see that my first two installments are rather "lost." With no replies, they move down on the list quickly.

I'll finish up my trip report here and now --
BUT: the first two bits were posted 1/04/08 at 5:40 and 5:43. (of course, under Taconictraveler.)

Graziella and Skatedancer: thanks for reading.

TOURING

We had a guide one day and she drove us down to Ocotlan, and places in between. It was great to get out in the country. But my favorite place was Cuilipan, where there is an unfinished Dominican church, practically untouched since early or mid- 16th C. - amazingly un-messed-up. - very photographible (sp?)

We had gone to Monte Alban with a local friend, and I consider that a MUST. hard to take it all in

Local friend also took us to Mitla on another day, AND Yagul (WHICH I ENJOYED THE MOST OF ALL) (it's quiet, in a supreme location, and very evocative) He also took us to Teotitlan for lunch at the Tlamanelli sisters - well worth the experience. Interestingly he had never neard of them, but was interested to see what they cooked.

Another highlight was the church at Tlacochuahuya (I'm winging that spelling, don't have my notes right here but I think it's right cuz I practised it all the way home.) This church was painted by the native people, taught, I suppose, by the Spaniards/Dominicans, so it has a very warm over all pattern on the walls of roses in that gorgeous red, and leaves of a stunning blue.

FOOD

We tried a lot of different food, and my hands down all time favorite was LA BIZNAGA. Casual,friendly,healthy food, not classical Oaxacan food, but with enough of that flavor to make it extremely enticing to me. AND their margaritas were divine. Salads of serrano ham, fresh local pears, and grana padano, for example. chicken rollatini, rolled around Oaxaca string cheese, with a sauce of apple and chili.

EL NARANJA was a huge disappointment.
We could not eat the chuletas. Obvously the famous cook is gone.

EL CHE (touted as a high end place) was loved by our friends but not by DH and myself. Too much of an attempt to be French cuisine, which seemed out of place to me.

CASA OAXACA: same friends hated it, we didn't go with them, so can't say.

MARIA BONITA: I loved this place, again, very casual, but it was here that I "got" what mole negra is really all about. BEST mole negra by far for me.

CAMINO REAL I would skip this, both for lodging and for food. We had a soupy salad and a terribly soggy sandwich here.

Hotel Los Laureles: I spoke about this place under lodging, and want to say that we had an excellent lunch here: I had tostaditas and others had soup.

THE PEOPLE

Finally the best part of Oaxaca - which was the Oaxaquenos. These are simply marvelous friendly, sweet people. There was never even a hint of any problem with anyone, nor did we observe one. There is a strong family spirit among the people, and we saw it in the Zocolo all during the great festivities of Rabanes and Christmas and New Year's Eve. We saw it in little villages, and everywhere we went.

If you ever get a chance to be in Oaxaca for the Festival of the Rabanes (Radishes) on Dec. 23, I thought this was the great highlight, with lots of action on the Zocolo and music, and fireworks alll evening long.

Thanks again for the rundown. Sorry to hear that the Camino Real was such a disappointment. We walked through it a few years ago (hadn't been able to reserve a room), and I thought it was one of the more beautiful hotels I'd ever seen.