Hello helpful fodorites,
My husband, 11 year old daughter and I are planning a trip to Oaxaca in February 2004. We only have one week, and want to take several day trips from Oaxaca. My question is this: since I believe we may need a car in Oaxaca for day trips (am I right about this?), does it make sense to rent a car in Mexico City and drive to Oaxaca, or take the bus from Mexico City and rent a car in Oaxaca?

Also, does anyone know of any nice, but not too expensive ($60-$70 US dollars per night) places to stay in Oaxaca? Are there any self-catering accomodations? We love to cook and would like to take advantage of the local market for food?

Any thoughts from experienced travellers?
Thanks,
C

I would advise against renting a car. Especially if you have never traveled in Mexico before, it is far easier to hire a car and driver for the specific trips you want to take. Believe me, you will not want the hassle of parking and finding your own way, nor would there be any reason to make the long (5-6 hours) drive from Mexico City to Oaxaca when the bus service is so good. Could recommend Las Bugambilias, a family-run B&B in the historic district with about 7 rooms. There are self-catering accomodations, but I don't think the location would be as good, especially for such a short visit.

Thanks Marilyn for the good advice. The Las Bugambilias looks beautiful, however, their web site indicates they do not allow children under 12 years of age. Darn.

Any other suggestions or opinions out there for centrally located lodging? We love small family run establishments.

Thanks
C

Check out Las Golandrias and Hotel Azucenas. Unless you are used to driving in Mexico I wold agree that a car is not a good idea. You can bus or fly from Mexico City. If you are somewhat the adventureous type you can easily bus anywhere in the Oaxaca valley. My kids have been riding the buses there since they were 6 and 7. If I were to rent, I would want to bus to Oaxaca then rent there. To drive, you would have to take into account Oaxacan driving styles, narrow, potholed, sometimes heavily congested, speed bump (tope) filled roads, and winding and twisting mountain roads with no guard rails. Also the occasional military checkpoint- although they have been closing some of these lateley. Unless I'm with friends that live there I prefer to bus.

Well, if your daughter is 11 I would think it would be OK, or at least worth an inquiry. This is a very quiet place, but there are small garden courtyards, the roof of La Olla, a family-run restaurant on the front of the property, a living-dining room in the house itself, etc. We had two ground floor rooms, each with bath and opening on to a small back patio, which were about $70 each, but there was a teensy room also giving on to that patio without a full bath that I believe the girl who had it said she was paying $15 for! They serve the breakfast in the family's old dining room--the family does not live on premises, but one brother is the manager, a sister manages the restaurant, etc. You won't find a better location: around the corner from Santo Domingo, easy walk to Zocalo, etc.

C --

my wife and I, along with the 16 year old daughter of a friend, were in Mexico 2 weeks ago (end of August). It sounds like our trip was similar to what you are thinking about. It was a GREAT trip (Oaxaca is enchanting), and I have a few suggestions.

1. do not drive from Mexico City to Oaxaca -- it's not worth the effort. There is at least one luxury bus an hour leaving the Tapo bus station in Mexico City for Oaxaca. The trip costs about $28 one-way, and takes 6 hours. Use the ADO or Cristobal Colon bus companies. This is an easy bus trip, as far as Mexico bus trips are concerned.

2. once in Oaxaca, it's ok to rent a car. You have more freedom that way, as compared to hiring a car and guide, and it may be a little cheaper. It is safe to drive in the Oaxaca area -- roads are good and the Mexicans are not crazy drivers. Don't drive at night, though. There are plenty of American-style car rental companies in Oaxaca -- Alamo, Bedget, Hertz, etc.

We hired a very clean and nice 2 door hatchback from Alamo with a/c and unlimited miles, for $60 per day, insurance included. It worked out just fine.

There are lots of nice day trips you can take from Oaxaca -- Monte Alban ( a ruin), craft villages, market towns, etc.

3. we stayed at a very pretty B & B on a quiet street a few blocks from the bus station -- Casa de Mis Recuerdos. It's about $55 to $60 per night for a double with a shared bath. Very very clean, nicely decorated with Mexican crafts and flowers, English speaking host, tasty breakfast. It is also about a 10 minute walk from the zocalo and the historic city center.

Lots to see in Oaxaca also, of course -- you're right -- spend lots of time in the markets. Great food there, for sure.

Hope this helps.