Took my two kids for ten days. We stayed at Hostal de la Noria and loved it. We had a Jr. suite and got a deal for staying so long. The regular rooms are MUCH smaller than the Jr. Suite. The restaurant was very pleasant and reasonably priced. Good room service and helpful and polite staff. Great location only a few blocks from the zocalo and easy to catch a cab.

We took two cooking classes - Iliana de la Vega (a truly great experience and informative) and Reyna Mendoza. We hired a driver and guide to take us to Teotitlan de Valle, Yagul, and Mitla - a 9 hour day. The last day we hired a driver and guide to take us to Aztompa and Monte Alban - a 3 hr. trip.

The kids had language school at Bacari three hours a day. In only 9 hours they learned more than they did in an entire semester at school.

We explored most of the art galleries and restaurants, usually opting for local color rather than touristy. We got haircuts and shoeshines on the zocalo, ate in diners on the street, and visited the local artisans.

Our favorite experience of all was seeing Monte Alban - what an amazing amazing place. If I'd known how very lovely it is, I would have probably gone a second time. Next favorite was Yagul at dusk.

more later next post...

As far as the food goes, I am a foodie and like most everything, but the moles I had there, especially not the mole tamales in banana leaves- blech! Loved the produce - avocadoes, limes, mangoes - never knew an avocado could be so wonderful.

The beef there way too tough and always overdone. On a scale of 1-10, I found the food to be a 4, (and I ate at the top five places).

The best meal we had was at Casa Oaxaca - mainly we enjoyed the atmosphere. We loved the atmo at Los Danzantes, but never saw one thing on the menu we wanted to order. Camino Real was a pretty place but the food was rather mediocre in my opinion.

El Naranjo was OK. Their specialty is Chile Rellenos - they have about six kinds - and of course, the everpresent mole. I guess mole is an acquired taste. I tried 7 kinds at maybe six different places and never tasted one I would ever order again. I even took classes to learn how to make two kinds of mole. Now that I know what it takes to make it, I can safely say I will NEVER make it. I love to cook and think nothing of cooking two to three hour recipes, but I just don't like mole well enough to go to all that trouble.

By far, my favorite things about Oaxaca are the people, the countryside, the ruins, and the art - paintings and jewelry. I don't like the rugs - they're mostly garish in color, and the animalitos are OK but they are mostly alike.

I found the paintings by local artist to be fascinating. I bought five paintings by local artists. I was touched by the purely creative work I saw in paintings by Santiago Martinez, Rene Almanza, and others.

I really enjoyed the painted metal work - very colorful metal ornaments, wall hangings, and soldiers and such made out of either tin or aluminum- adorable.

As far as the pottery.... A lot of it is alike. The black pottery is just OK. The green pottery and a lot of the other types have lead paint so I don't want it.

I saw nice silver jewelry, interesting things by creative artisans.

It's a city spiritually rich and financially poor.

And I love it.

A couple more things here. I was shocked how incredibly beautiful Santo Domingo is. Far more amazing than anything I saw in Europe. Did you know that the jewelry from Monte Alban - only second in opulence to those found in Tutunkamen's tomb are kept at Santo Domingo?

We searched endlessly for hand made knives. Finally we found Casa Aragon, a shop selling knives made by the legendary Sr. Aragon. I bought a knife and also a letter opener, fantastic souvenirs for a fantastic trip.

If you go to Oaxaca, please go out into the countryside to enjoy the mountains and the charming villagers. Guided tours are very reasonably priced. Stroll the xocalo and buy some pretty stone necklaces to take home for gifts.

Oaxaca needs tourism desperately and they deserve it. We never got ill or felt unsafe. We were told that the restaurants are required to serve purified water and ice and to wash their vegetables.

Get a room with a balcony if you can so you can enjoy the views of the beautiful mountains. Go to Monte Alban the second or third day of your trip. Try to get out southeast at least to Yagul. I hear that Hierve de Agua is fantastic.

A guide from Oaxaca said there is so little crime there that the police have nothing to do. The people were very religious, gracious, and friendly.

Wander into every church you see. Buy from local artisans. Always ask before taking pictures - many think the camera steals their spirit. And please try to speak Spanish. It's fun. Try to stay a few blocks from the zocalo.

For us, Oaxaca was a life changing experience. We came back spiritually enriched, feeling more creative, more appreciative, and wanting to go back soon, like in May!

I'll try to help with questions.

Hi-
We're trying to sort out a week-long trip to Oaxaca and your post was incredibly helpful. We were thinking of using Oaxaca as a base and taking day trips from there....good idea? Or do you think the villages are worth staying at overnight?

We tend to gravitate away from the crowds and tourists and more towards the quaint and quiet. Any other suggestions??
Thanks so much again, really appreciated!
B.

Thanks for the great post. I am going to Becari in August for a week. Planning to take the super intensive course. Any advice about the school? I speak a little spanish now. I will be staying with a Mexican family.

What do you think the weather will be in August? HOt? Rainy? Cool at night? I love the Mexican street markets, assume the best ones in Oax. are on Sunday? thanks
Nonstop

From what I saw of the villages, and Ionly saw three, I would definitely stay in Oaxaca City and travel from there. Many of the vilages run out of water from now-May.

Becari is delightful, an easy walk from the zocalo and close to the Alcala shopping area.

I found the Benito Juarez market to be wonderful every day. the Abastos-fuggettabouttit-literally walked three hours and NEVER found the handicrafts. There are NO signs or maps and NO ONE speaks English. Bathrooms are hard to find. I would not go there without a guide- not at all.

One more thing. bottled water is easy to find almost everywhere. Be careful of drinking anything that might have water on it - like cokes in buckets of ice water. Be careful taking a shower - so water doesn't get in your mouth. Be really careful staying in a local home. They're probably used to the water.

Take two pepto bismol pills before every meal as prophylaxis against tourista. Keep well hydrated and don't get over tired. The altitude can get to you. Oaxaca is very mountainous.

I can't advise you on weather. But for good local art try the Plaza Labastida. On the end by the church is an excellent jewelry artist and some really good artists - look at the matted things in racks, too.

Take two pairs of walking shoes cause you'll be doing a lot of it.

We took a huge duffel bag of snacks for the room and filled it with lots of boxes filled with bubble wrap. We ate the food while we were there (or gave it to the chambermaid) and packed all our treasures in the boxes buffered by our dirty clothes. Everything made it home safe. Be sure to bring some tall boxes so you can pack your Mezcal safely.

And go to the Beneva factory (on the road to Yagul) if you can to see how Mezcal is made- IT's quite amazing. And taste their wares afterward- (but no limes). They have some nice little bags and little bottles. Give your friends limes, salt, and mezcal from Oaxaca.

Good souvenirs are chocolate (in the green box) from Mayordomo, Molilillos for frothing the chocolate, and chihuacle chili peppers from the market. There is also a wonderful vanilla in little plastic jugs for about 10 pesos from Benito Juarez market.

One more thing. The first day you get there or the next go to the market and find the section of flowers. Get some big bunches of Calla Lilies (the long white ones like in Diego Rivera Paintings) and Agapanthus-the big purple balls of flowers. Get a vase from your room and cut the agapanthus really short - like 7" long stems.
Then cut the callas long enough to stand above the agapanthus. That greeted us in our room each day and lasted 10 days - only $3.00! The flowers are amazing there.

On chocolate- Warning. Don't get it fresh ground unless you feel like forming it all into little cakes and letting it dry. Otherwise you're all invited to heft little lumps of concrete until you can figure out how to smash them up (she said hefting little lumps of concrete out of her suitcase). It tastes just as good in formed cakes or wrapped bars.

Hats- Don't bother taking hats. you can buy them at the market for about $2.50. Get the kind with a chinstring (Monet Alban is super windy.) Then just leave them for your chambermaid. You'll get your money's worth.

Go to Monte Alban and don't try doing it without a guide. Don't try walking there - it takes like 30 minutes even to get up that hill by van. There were some exhausted-looking people walking up that hill trying to save a buck (risking cardiac arrest).

Take time to gaze out from the edge of the terrace - sit under a tree on a bench and wonder why every one's in such a rush. It's divine there. Those Zapotecs knew what they were doing. I suggest going to Monte Alban about 2:00. Then go to the museum there. You can start your tour of the ruins about 4:00. That should be about perfect. In the morning it's too sunny.

I just remembered something that might save others a lot of trouble. When we arrived in Houston from Mexico City, there were no ATM machines accessible from within the airport.

When I asked security, they said I must have a boarding pass.

I needed money for a cab and the cabs didn't take credit cards. Fortunately, I could talk the cab driver into stopping at an ATM machine, but after that grueling travel day, the last thing you want to do is stop at an ATM.

Keep enough US dollars to avoid this hassle.

Mariacallas, that was a terrific blog! Thanks. A buddy of mine and I are going to Oaxaca in August. We spent last August in Cuernavaca and then I went back by myself for a week in October. Cuernavaca is great but we've heard so many great things about Oaxaca that we felt we needed to go. We're both trying to learn the language. His wife is fairly fluent and I'm learning for personal reasons. We'll use all your thoughts to get the most out of our 8 days there. We'll be in the language school as well. One comment about ATM's from our experience in Mexico City, the airport, and in Cuernavaca - and this is not to you but to anyone that hasn't been in central Mexico; we found them everywhere and easy to use. And the exchange rate is better 100% of the time vs. exchanging cash in or around the airport. There are about 5 ATM's in the Mexico City airport right after you clear customs outside of baggage claim. Once thru the green light/red light custom inspection system, you have 2 chioces, right or left. Go right and the ATM's are on your right. Get a two thousand peso's and your ATM card will be charged for about $180 U.S. or so. That's plenty for the next 5 days at least. Also, I spent a month in Mexico last year and found that they love U.S. cash everywhere, so no worries there for anyone reading that's never been. Even in the remote villages we visited, they understand the U.S. dollar.

Thanks for all of the interesting insights into your trips to Oaxaca. However, the moles in Oaxaca and El Naranjo in particular are wonderful. I can't wait each trip to visit El Catedral for a traditional mole negro and then a few days later have a wonderful manchamanteles (a spicy fruit based mole)that Iliana at El Naranjo has perfected. Not being a true gourmet, I still enjoy the taquerias, meat stalls and torta stores throughout the city. My a.m. routine is usually a run up the escaleras/stairs at the Guelaguetza stadium and then a visit to the markets for a fresh "licuado/jugo" or a steaming hot cup of chocolate de leche and a tamal oaxaqueno.
The markets are fun to visit with more touristy items (t-shirts, hats, gift type chocolates and mezcal in the Benito Juarez market a few blocks south of the zocalo and then cross the street to the 20 de noviembre for the food stalls. Where fresh fruits, meats , flowers, breads and other food items are sold. Also in this markey unique to the Oaxaca region (but not to be missed) are the tiny meat stalls that will grill your lunch as you sit back and relaz with other local families in a true Oaxaca experience. Make sure that you try the grilled chorizos , which are a specialty of the region. The torillas have different names here and are sold by wandering women, the tlayudas are the larger crisper versions and the blanditas are the more traditional flour tortillas. The Abastos market (Abastos which translate to supplies) is just that, it is where the Oaxacans buy their produce, socks, dog food, machetes and some household items. It is not a tourist market for handicrafts or artwork, but it is still a true slice of Oaxaca. Saturday is the busiest day of the week where it becomes extremely busy. Finally the other markets in surrounding vilages each occur on a specific day of the week. The most interesting is the Sunday market in Tlacolula, which can easily be combined with a trip to el Tule (worlds' widest tree) Mitla and Hierve el agua (1 hr. drive past Mitla). Oaxaca is a great place to stay and do the day trips to surrounding areas. The other cities are pretty quiet and very limited in their lodging options. I can't wait to have my nieve at la Soledad in a few weeks. Hasta la proxima!

SrFlojo -
Reading your post about Iliana's manchamanteles mole brought back mouth watering memories. I just finished making some Oaxacan meatballs (recipe by Iliana) for dinner tonight. I visited Morelia this winter which was wonderful - elegant, reserved, stately, beautiful. Very different from Oaxaca though. There is a quality about Oaxaca that is intangible and magnetic - maybe its raucousness, rawness, unpredictability - I don't know. I also hopped over to Huatulco after Morelia but it's more of a resort destination - a little too controlled and studied but wonderfully remote.