Honduras Trip Report
May 9th, 2007 | 07:38 AM
#1
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 69
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Honduras Trip Report
Thanks to all those who helped with details. It was an interesting trip to say the least. We left on April 29 and returned on May 6.
Our first destination on Roatan, Palmetto Bay Plantation, was beyond gorgeous. It suffered, hoewever, from the major inconvenience of a large religious convention in a small resort with no convention center and one common area (by which I mean the pool deck and restaurant/bar area), which the convenees occupied from approximately 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. with little, if any reprieve. I cannot say enough about the architecture, Gary, the owner's, hospitality, or the island casual gourmet food. The grilled mahi with coconut sauce, and the banana pancakes with fresh fruit and fried plantains, the only two meals we took on the premises, were both outstanding. Long story short, our stay was abbreviated. My husband called Anthony's Key, which was more than happy to absorb us for a seemingly exorbitant nightly rate, that actually turned out to be a comparative bargain. We stayed at Anthony's Key for 4 nights, during which they updraded us to an over-water cabana with an open-air covered deck again the size of our room, complete with hammocks and a sunrise view. The food was mediocre, at best, but the diving was superlative. My husband, despite several dive trips in his log, had never seen a facility so well equipped. Our first day alone we completed three day dives and one night dive, all of which we evaluated as top rate. The avid diver should be aware that Roatan diving features spectacular architecture, and some nice, vivid wildlife, but, as much of the carribean, lacks the abundance of sea life that other waters offer. Meals and diving are included, as our many superflous activities (who had time???).
On the morning of May 4, we left on the ferry for La Ceiba; had we taken a plane, the resort would not have let us dive for 24 hours prior. Keep this in mind if scheduling a trip. The ferry ran smoothly and punctually.
La Ceiba, where we arrived for our stay at Pico Bonito, is enlightening. My heart absolutely broke for the mongrel dogs, the emaciated horeses, and the barefoot children chasing mangy chickens around hovels on the main road. The Lodge at Pico Bonito was, itself, lovely (speaking architecturally), but, despite hikes of substantial length, I did not enjoy the diversity of birds and primates I expected. In fact, because I had such faith that I would spot considerable wildlife hiking into the primary forest, I did not bother with the riparian sanctuary tour, and, therefore, missed out entirely on primate sightings and other none bird or reptile. My understanding is that the heart of the National Park is alive with fauna of all varieties, but they dare not venture to the perimeter, as they might in Costa Rica, because the local economy suffers such total depletion that residents resort to bush meat for subsitance, resulting in the relative exiguity of wildlife, even on established reserves. In addition to two day hikes and one night hike, we also signed on for a rafting trip. If I had done more research, I might have discovered in time that the Rio Cangrejal is less that its ebullient self in May and hardly worth the trip.
In any event, for those with a hiking bug that devote more attention to scenery than its non-human occupants, I highly recommend Pico Bonito and the hike to Unbelievable Falls. Swimming in the natural pool when you arrive is well worth the fairly challenging terrain (which I quite enjoyed), and both the falls and the jungle through which one forges to get there are stunning.
On our last day, we flew back to Roatan and decided to spend our nearly three-hour layover back in the West End, which we'd seen only by night. We walked from one end of the town to the other, landing at Sundowners, the admittedly Americanized (it must be owned by ex-pats) but undeiably perfect tiki bar at the far end of the West End, on the beach. There we enjoyed a couple drinks on the beach, wading in the water, to remind us that, yes, despite running ourselves ragged with sport and empathy for the local poor, the trip had
indeed been both relaxing and rejuvenating.
It might not sound like I enjoyed it that much, but I really very much did. I'm hesitant to recommend the mainland for vacation unless you have more than a week, or to recommend it for the insouciant at all. Of course supporting eco-tourism in the area is sure to go a long way to remediate both the deplorable human conditions and the state of the wildlife, so if you feel compelled...
Roatan, though it doesn't need my recommendation among divers-in-the-know, receives it regardless, for anyone interested in diving (the divable reef really is only minutes off the island by boat)or just a beach vacation for the slightly more adventorous. If this is your bag, go now; with the incipient construction of larger resorts, seriatim, the Roatan of today, with its rustic roads, remnant jungle and comparatively sparse settlement, will not be here in five years.
Our first destination on Roatan, Palmetto Bay Plantation, was beyond gorgeous. It suffered, hoewever, from the major inconvenience of a large religious convention in a small resort with no convention center and one common area (by which I mean the pool deck and restaurant/bar area), which the convenees occupied from approximately 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. with little, if any reprieve. I cannot say enough about the architecture, Gary, the owner's, hospitality, or the island casual gourmet food. The grilled mahi with coconut sauce, and the banana pancakes with fresh fruit and fried plantains, the only two meals we took on the premises, were both outstanding. Long story short, our stay was abbreviated. My husband called Anthony's Key, which was more than happy to absorb us for a seemingly exorbitant nightly rate, that actually turned out to be a comparative bargain. We stayed at Anthony's Key for 4 nights, during which they updraded us to an over-water cabana with an open-air covered deck again the size of our room, complete with hammocks and a sunrise view. The food was mediocre, at best, but the diving was superlative. My husband, despite several dive trips in his log, had never seen a facility so well equipped. Our first day alone we completed three day dives and one night dive, all of which we evaluated as top rate. The avid diver should be aware that Roatan diving features spectacular architecture, and some nice, vivid wildlife, but, as much of the carribean, lacks the abundance of sea life that other waters offer. Meals and diving are included, as our many superflous activities (who had time???).
On the morning of May 4, we left on the ferry for La Ceiba; had we taken a plane, the resort would not have let us dive for 24 hours prior. Keep this in mind if scheduling a trip. The ferry ran smoothly and punctually.
La Ceiba, where we arrived for our stay at Pico Bonito, is enlightening. My heart absolutely broke for the mongrel dogs, the emaciated horeses, and the barefoot children chasing mangy chickens around hovels on the main road. The Lodge at Pico Bonito was, itself, lovely (speaking architecturally), but, despite hikes of substantial length, I did not enjoy the diversity of birds and primates I expected. In fact, because I had such faith that I would spot considerable wildlife hiking into the primary forest, I did not bother with the riparian sanctuary tour, and, therefore, missed out entirely on primate sightings and other none bird or reptile. My understanding is that the heart of the National Park is alive with fauna of all varieties, but they dare not venture to the perimeter, as they might in Costa Rica, because the local economy suffers such total depletion that residents resort to bush meat for subsitance, resulting in the relative exiguity of wildlife, even on established reserves. In addition to two day hikes and one night hike, we also signed on for a rafting trip. If I had done more research, I might have discovered in time that the Rio Cangrejal is less that its ebullient self in May and hardly worth the trip.
In any event, for those with a hiking bug that devote more attention to scenery than its non-human occupants, I highly recommend Pico Bonito and the hike to Unbelievable Falls. Swimming in the natural pool when you arrive is well worth the fairly challenging terrain (which I quite enjoyed), and both the falls and the jungle through which one forges to get there are stunning.
On our last day, we flew back to Roatan and decided to spend our nearly three-hour layover back in the West End, which we'd seen only by night. We walked from one end of the town to the other, landing at Sundowners, the admittedly Americanized (it must be owned by ex-pats) but undeiably perfect tiki bar at the far end of the West End, on the beach. There we enjoyed a couple drinks on the beach, wading in the water, to remind us that, yes, despite running ourselves ragged with sport and empathy for the local poor, the trip had
indeed been both relaxing and rejuvenating.
It might not sound like I enjoyed it that much, but I really very much did. I'm hesitant to recommend the mainland for vacation unless you have more than a week, or to recommend it for the insouciant at all. Of course supporting eco-tourism in the area is sure to go a long way to remediate both the deplorable human conditions and the state of the wildlife, so if you feel compelled...
Roatan, though it doesn't need my recommendation among divers-in-the-know, receives it regardless, for anyone interested in diving (the divable reef really is only minutes off the island by boat)or just a beach vacation for the slightly more adventorous. If this is your bag, go now; with the incipient construction of larger resorts, seriatim, the Roatan of today, with its rustic roads, remnant jungle and comparatively sparse settlement, will not be here in five years.
May 29th, 2007 | 05:25 AM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 69
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Touche. It's not the first time I've been accused of pushing vocab. I'll work on it. But, in all seriousness, I didn't intend "the mainland" to refer to all of mainland Honduras; I really wouldn't know (first trip to Central America). I meant La Ceiba. I was also basing my comments on the reaction from my husband and the few tourists we met in the short time we were there. My only point is that a lot of people go on vacation to relax and NOT think about poverty, hunger, etc. and, because those thoughts seemed pretty unavaoidable in La Ceiba, I wouldn't recommend it for people who think that concern of any kind detracts from their vacation.
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