Glover, are you in Panama now?
Jan 25th, 2009, 08:48 AM
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Hey cmcfong, we are in Panama now. Thanks for asking. I did say I'd post while here, didn't I? Thanks for the nudge.
We spent 5 great nights in Panama City at La Estancia B&B on Cerro Ancon. As was our experience a couple years ago, it was a great place to stay. Last time we lived it up in a suite. This time we had a small queen room on second floor without a balcony. No problema though as there's balcony space galore for general use. So we had nice breakfasts on the balcony and saw lovely crimson backed tanagers, seedeaters, and blue gray tanagers at the feeders - as well as mono titis (tamarins)- such interesting looking monkeys - also related to lemurs so we now understand. Easy to see - they've almost cat like.
Our first day in PC we did a partial transit of the canal. We had been to Miraflores on last trip, but husband wanted to get on the ship. It was fun, slow of course. We went through two locks and so could again marvel at the engineering -sheer size of the lock gates etc. It was a mob scene on our ship - which holds 300. Tourguides broadcasting in 4 languages. We didn't learn anything new though - but that's because we read David McCullough's tome The Path Between the Seas a couple years ago. Hot sunny day!
Ship returned to marina at Amador. We settled in at Alberto's restaurant there for a few drinks and dinner looking out on water and at city sky line. Then walked back on the causeway toward centro. Walked long distance. Lovely evening. Lots of people out walking, rollerblading etc. Felt quite comfortable walking there after dark. Many people out. Finally hailed a cab to take us rest of way to La Estancia.
Next day we were up early to walk to top of Ancon Hill. Saw the usual toucans and some other birds. Nice walk as always. Great views of city and canal from the top. Took cab down to Casco Viejo. It was last day of the week long Panama Jazz Fest. We hung out there at the free outdoor concert the rest of the day. Had pretty good shady seat on concrete. Hordes of people. Some musicians from New England Conservatory played. Especially enjoyed a young pianist from Spain (Alex something) and his group. Tried to hang on for headliner Chucho Valdez, but couldn't last. Tried to go to dinner at Manolo Caracol about 7, but they said they were booked for eve. Ended up at Mostaza. OK place, only ok food.
Walk several blocks to place advised by tourist police for catching cab. Jazz fest still going strong at 9 or so. . . .
Sunday we left at 5am with Birding Panama guide and driver to go to Nusecongi - Kuna territory on road toward San Blas. 2 hour drive, part on dirt road. Remote area. Saw maybe 40 species of birds there. Walked from 7am to 4pm. Gasp. I was actually done in at 1.
We didn't find endemic species guide was searching for,but did find some other good stuff - e.g. yellow-eared toucanet. Enjoyed seeing a couple big rodeo like fests on drive back which our guide said happen at this time of year.
Ordered pizza into La Estancia that night for balcony dinner - we were whipped!!
Monday left at 6am to go to Pipeline Road with Ancon. We shared guide with nice Canadian couple. Our guide this day was a young Panamanian biologist. He was wonderful. Not particularly bird oriented - but full of indepth knowledge of tropics and animal behavior (his specialty). He was working part time for Ancon and STRI and finishing a degree. Saw some white faced monkeys and about 20 species or so of birds. Had a little rain shower on trip. Finished the half day trip with a visit to the harpy eagle display at Summit Zoo. We'd been before but not to new pavillion. Great video of harpy fly/hopping and snatching a sloth (their primary food). Much better idea of their size and strength than we had before. Great view of the 40 year old male who is now residing at zoo.
Hung out at La E, did laundry (so convenient) talked to other guests, etc. Went back down to Casco Viejo for dinner - this time at Manolo Caracol. The place was not even half full! Deal here is they bring you 7 courses for $25 per person. Interesting food, but not, we thought, as good as lunch we had a couple years ago. We had raw oyster starter, clams, grilled prawns, another fish, a meat dish, salad, and a frou frou dessert. Fun chat with British couple we'd met on partial transit.
Tuesday- Obama inaugural. Yay. We take another am walk up the hill. Have breakfast. Pack. View swearing in etc with 10 or so others in the suite downstairs. Even toast him with white wine. How decadent at 12pm. We're all so excited.
Then it's on to El Valle. More later.. .
Sorry - "mini-report" seems to be beyond my ability. . . . . .
We spent 5 great nights in Panama City at La Estancia B&B on Cerro Ancon. As was our experience a couple years ago, it was a great place to stay. Last time we lived it up in a suite. This time we had a small queen room on second floor without a balcony. No problema though as there's balcony space galore for general use. So we had nice breakfasts on the balcony and saw lovely crimson backed tanagers, seedeaters, and blue gray tanagers at the feeders - as well as mono titis (tamarins)- such interesting looking monkeys - also related to lemurs so we now understand. Easy to see - they've almost cat like.
Our first day in PC we did a partial transit of the canal. We had been to Miraflores on last trip, but husband wanted to get on the ship. It was fun, slow of course. We went through two locks and so could again marvel at the engineering -sheer size of the lock gates etc. It was a mob scene on our ship - which holds 300. Tourguides broadcasting in 4 languages. We didn't learn anything new though - but that's because we read David McCullough's tome The Path Between the Seas a couple years ago. Hot sunny day!
Ship returned to marina at Amador. We settled in at Alberto's restaurant there for a few drinks and dinner looking out on water and at city sky line. Then walked back on the causeway toward centro. Walked long distance. Lovely evening. Lots of people out walking, rollerblading etc. Felt quite comfortable walking there after dark. Many people out. Finally hailed a cab to take us rest of way to La Estancia.
Next day we were up early to walk to top of Ancon Hill. Saw the usual toucans and some other birds. Nice walk as always. Great views of city and canal from the top. Took cab down to Casco Viejo. It was last day of the week long Panama Jazz Fest. We hung out there at the free outdoor concert the rest of the day. Had pretty good shady seat on concrete. Hordes of people. Some musicians from New England Conservatory played. Especially enjoyed a young pianist from Spain (Alex something) and his group. Tried to hang on for headliner Chucho Valdez, but couldn't last. Tried to go to dinner at Manolo Caracol about 7, but they said they were booked for eve. Ended up at Mostaza. OK place, only ok food.
Walk several blocks to place advised by tourist police for catching cab. Jazz fest still going strong at 9 or so. . . .
Sunday we left at 5am with Birding Panama guide and driver to go to Nusecongi - Kuna territory on road toward San Blas. 2 hour drive, part on dirt road. Remote area. Saw maybe 40 species of birds there. Walked from 7am to 4pm. Gasp. I was actually done in at 1.
We didn't find endemic species guide was searching for,but did find some other good stuff - e.g. yellow-eared toucanet. Enjoyed seeing a couple big rodeo like fests on drive back which our guide said happen at this time of year.
Ordered pizza into La Estancia that night for balcony dinner - we were whipped!!
Monday left at 6am to go to Pipeline Road with Ancon. We shared guide with nice Canadian couple. Our guide this day was a young Panamanian biologist. He was wonderful. Not particularly bird oriented - but full of indepth knowledge of tropics and animal behavior (his specialty). He was working part time for Ancon and STRI and finishing a degree. Saw some white faced monkeys and about 20 species or so of birds. Had a little rain shower on trip. Finished the half day trip with a visit to the harpy eagle display at Summit Zoo. We'd been before but not to new pavillion. Great video of harpy fly/hopping and snatching a sloth (their primary food). Much better idea of their size and strength than we had before. Great view of the 40 year old male who is now residing at zoo.
Hung out at La E, did laundry (so convenient) talked to other guests, etc. Went back down to Casco Viejo for dinner - this time at Manolo Caracol. The place was not even half full! Deal here is they bring you 7 courses for $25 per person. Interesting food, but not, we thought, as good as lunch we had a couple years ago. We had raw oyster starter, clams, grilled prawns, another fish, a meat dish, salad, and a frou frou dessert. Fun chat with British couple we'd met on partial transit.
Tuesday- Obama inaugural. Yay. We take another am walk up the hill. Have breakfast. Pack. View swearing in etc with 10 or so others in the suite downstairs. Even toast him with white wine. How decadent at 12pm. We're all so excited.
Then it's on to El Valle. More later.. .
Sorry - "mini-report" seems to be beyond my ability. . . . . .
Jan 25th, 2009, 09:36 AM
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Thanks for the great report. Brought back lots of memories. We were fortunate to see, and get a really good look at a jaguarundi when we walked the Pipeline Road a few years ago.
I love Chucho Valdez, saw him in Havana a few years ago. Absolutely wonderful.
I love Chucho Valdez, saw him in Havana a few years ago. Absolutely wonderful.
Jan 25th, 2009, 11:03 AM
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Thank you so much, Glover. I lived in Quarry Heights as a teenager, so your tales of Ancon Hill brought back some very special memories. I will be there on Friday, so please post again. I love reading your reports!
Jan 25th, 2009, 11:45 AM
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a jaguarundi, JeanH! How exciting that must have been. In 3 trips to Costa Rica, now 2 to Panama, and 1 to Ecuador jungle, we've yet to see a cat. Talked to some folks today who are just back from Darien where they saw a harpy eagle. We were envious.
So, anyway, on to El Valle. Took taxi to Allbrook bus station. Found ticket booth for bus to El Valle, but never found the stated gate number. Who knows what system that was. A security cop took pity on my searching husband - and to help us- led us back to the booth where we'd bought tickets. Whereupon they told him the same gate number, whereupon he led us there, where we could see nothing having to do with the gate number provided. and so it goes. There appeared to be no luggage area on the van provided,so we basically held ours in our laps/aisle. Van was full. All riders very adept at negotiating over and around luggage, bundles, children, etc. Nothing rattled anyone. Road was a little windy from Panamerican hgwy to El Valle. At intersection of those roads we stopped and bus driver with help loaded two bunk bed frames and two mattresses on top of vehicle. Then took turns to El Valle at fairly fast clip. gracias a dios, we arrived safely. Total cost $3 for los dos.
We spent 3 nights at the lovely and reasonably priced Anton Valley Hotel. Recently rehabbed by two nice guys from states Earl and Les. Our room #4 was comfortable- though a tad noisy as we were next to patio, parking lot, and the new house being constructed for the owners. Nice little breakfast room, tasty breakfast, nice staff. Lots of good hiking possible in and around this lovely spread out little town, but weather was wacky. Rain/sun/rain nonstop for two whole days. Rather than venture far we walked the nearby roads - often in rain - looking at beautiful flowers and more birds.
Had two great meals at little place on main drag a couple blocks from our hotel: La Brushetta. Also went to El Nispero, El Valle's zoo. nice walk and enjoyed seeing animals, but cages pretty sad looking. Enjoyed walking around town looking at lovely homes and grounds - second homes of wealthy Panamanians so they say.
After 3 nights in El Valle we took another bus to Chirigui Arriba to stay 3 nights here where we are now at a lovely lodge called La Posada Cerro Vieja. Naturally we got 3 or 4 different stories as to whether a direct bus to town of Penonome from el Valle existed. But turned out it did. So we board another van bus - this one with space for luggage and headed off from El Valle to Penonome. About 1 1/2 hours and $5 for both of us. From Penomone we hailed cab (turned out to be a pickup truck) and went 45 minutes further afield and up to the area called Chirigui Arriba where this lodge is located.
We're on our 3rd and final night here. It's a beautiful spot. We have a second floor room with a balcony that looks over canopy below and mountains beyond. They have a nice little spa here too. So we've availed ourselves of massages and reflexology, facials etc and done more walking and looking at birds. Watched a sloth just beyond our balcony this am. Weather clearing but slowly. Still a little rain now and again. It was a VERY muddy glissando hike we took with a guide yesterday am. Have seen toucans, mot mots, and many others. Food here in lodge has thus far been buffets. But simple food cooked well using loca ingredients including great greens, tomatoes, etc from nearby organic garden. Lodge hosted a big group of nurses over weekend. Now it's quiet again. Just a few European tourists. No other norteamericanos.
Tomorrow we're off to Finca la Suiza in Chiriqui for a few days. more later.
So, anyway, on to El Valle. Took taxi to Allbrook bus station. Found ticket booth for bus to El Valle, but never found the stated gate number. Who knows what system that was. A security cop took pity on my searching husband - and to help us- led us back to the booth where we'd bought tickets. Whereupon they told him the same gate number, whereupon he led us there, where we could see nothing having to do with the gate number provided. and so it goes. There appeared to be no luggage area on the van provided,so we basically held ours in our laps/aisle. Van was full. All riders very adept at negotiating over and around luggage, bundles, children, etc. Nothing rattled anyone. Road was a little windy from Panamerican hgwy to El Valle. At intersection of those roads we stopped and bus driver with help loaded two bunk bed frames and two mattresses on top of vehicle. Then took turns to El Valle at fairly fast clip. gracias a dios, we arrived safely. Total cost $3 for los dos.
We spent 3 nights at the lovely and reasonably priced Anton Valley Hotel. Recently rehabbed by two nice guys from states Earl and Les. Our room #4 was comfortable- though a tad noisy as we were next to patio, parking lot, and the new house being constructed for the owners. Nice little breakfast room, tasty breakfast, nice staff. Lots of good hiking possible in and around this lovely spread out little town, but weather was wacky. Rain/sun/rain nonstop for two whole days. Rather than venture far we walked the nearby roads - often in rain - looking at beautiful flowers and more birds.
Had two great meals at little place on main drag a couple blocks from our hotel: La Brushetta. Also went to El Nispero, El Valle's zoo. nice walk and enjoyed seeing animals, but cages pretty sad looking. Enjoyed walking around town looking at lovely homes and grounds - second homes of wealthy Panamanians so they say.
After 3 nights in El Valle we took another bus to Chirigui Arriba to stay 3 nights here where we are now at a lovely lodge called La Posada Cerro Vieja. Naturally we got 3 or 4 different stories as to whether a direct bus to town of Penonome from el Valle existed. But turned out it did. So we board another van bus - this one with space for luggage and headed off from El Valle to Penonome. About 1 1/2 hours and $5 for both of us. From Penomone we hailed cab (turned out to be a pickup truck) and went 45 minutes further afield and up to the area called Chirigui Arriba where this lodge is located.
We're on our 3rd and final night here. It's a beautiful spot. We have a second floor room with a balcony that looks over canopy below and mountains beyond. They have a nice little spa here too. So we've availed ourselves of massages and reflexology, facials etc and done more walking and looking at birds. Watched a sloth just beyond our balcony this am. Weather clearing but slowly. Still a little rain now and again. It was a VERY muddy glissando hike we took with a guide yesterday am. Have seen toucans, mot mots, and many others. Food here in lodge has thus far been buffets. But simple food cooked well using loca ingredients including great greens, tomatoes, etc from nearby organic garden. Lodge hosted a big group of nurses over weekend. Now it's quiet again. Just a few European tourists. No other norteamericanos.
Tomorrow we're off to Finca la Suiza in Chiriqui for a few days. more later.
Jan 28th, 2009, 03:28 AM
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Hey Glover, so glad you are having a nice time. You have me right there with you! We really enjoy La Estancia as well. Ah, Pipeline Road. . .
Safe travels and thanks for the report. Mini not necessary. Most of us understand the long wind; I know I'm always guilty!
Safe travels and thanks for the report. Mini not necessary. Most of us understand the long wind; I know I'm always guilty!
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