Colonial Mexico for 1 Week - Help?
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Colonial Mexico for 1 Week - Help?
Hello! My husband and I are celebrating our 10th anniversary this September and are looking for a little cultural adventure. We're sold on Colonial Mexico but a little overwhelmed by the options. It sounds like Mexico City is fabulous itself (especially the anthropology museum), and I've seen recommendations for Oaxaca, Puebla, Guanejuato, Cuernevaca, Quereres, and many more. We have just 8 days including travel days, and one idea I've come up with is to fly into Mexico City and spend a couple days there, take a bus to Puebla for a few days, then fly or bus to Oaxaca, and fly back to the US from there. We're usually "slow travelers" but considering doing it differently this time.
We like beautiful architecture and scenery, interesting history, good food, friendly people, music, and a modest amount of ruins/museums. We are in our 30s. Since it's a special wedding anniversary (without the kids!), a little romance would be welcome. Basically we're looking for something vaguely European, but don't worry, I've been to Cuernevaca (which I loved) and Guanejuato before in my teens, so I do have some experience with Mexico besides beach resorts. Oh, and we speak a little Spanish and fluent French.
I'd appreciate any suggestions, both for itineraries and general recommendations, e.g. hotel vs B&B vs Airbnb.. Thank you in advance!
We like beautiful architecture and scenery, interesting history, good food, friendly people, music, and a modest amount of ruins/museums. We are in our 30s. Since it's a special wedding anniversary (without the kids!), a little romance would be welcome. Basically we're looking for something vaguely European, but don't worry, I've been to Cuernevaca (which I loved) and Guanejuato before in my teens, so I do have some experience with Mexico besides beach resorts. Oh, and we speak a little Spanish and fluent French.
I'd appreciate any suggestions, both for itineraries and general recommendations, e.g. hotel vs B&B vs Airbnb.. Thank you in advance!
#2
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I should mention:
1. I know it's rainy season in September but we can't change our travel dates because of childcare. Hoping it will still be enjoyable.
2. Our budget is moderate, $350 per person per day (excluding flights to and from US). Extras like a private driver or private day guide interest us.
1. I know it's rainy season in September but we can't change our travel dates because of childcare. Hoping it will still be enjoyable.
2. Our budget is moderate, $350 per person per day (excluding flights to and from US). Extras like a private driver or private day guide interest us.
#3
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 0
Keep in mind most locations you will need to go through Mexico City on your return flight especially Oaxaca.
8 days is not a lot of time so you might consider sticking to the Mexico City area as plenty to do in the area. $700 a day for two is not modest in my opinion as that's a week at least for me.
8 days is not a lot of time so you might consider sticking to the Mexico City area as plenty to do in the area. $700 a day for two is not modest in my opinion as that's a week at least for me.
#4
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
Probably the most European-ish city on your potential itinerary would be Guanajuato. Even though I live in Sasn Miguel, I think that a CDMX/Puebla/Oaxaca itinerary best fits your wish list. So, some random thoughts:
I hope the $350 per day per person budget isn't pesos! If it's dollars, (CAD or US), then you'll travel like royalty.
8 days is not a lot of time, but certainly doable. If it were me, I'd probably do 3 nights CDMX, 1 night Puebla, and then 3 nights in Oaxaca.
In CDMX, the Condesa colonia is nice, with it's art-deco architecture, tree-lined streets & parks and many moderate to upscale sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Very romantic, safe, lots of people out walking either themselves or their dogs at all hours. Close to Chapultepec. The Red Tree House is a popular B & B, but is often booked a ways in advance. Chapultepec/Anthro museum will pretty much take up an entire day. Dedicate a full day to the centro historico.
Even though Puebla really deserves more than 1 night, I don't know that you'd have enough time to do more. I like the Hotel Colonial, not so much because it's super-luxurious, but for it's location. It's quiet and moderately priced. Dinner at the close-by Meson De Sacrista is a must. http://mesones-sacristia.com/espanol/restaurante.php
In Oaxaca, of course the classic hotel is the Quinta Real. However, it's popular with groups so that's a downside. The rooms tend to be a bit spartan, but it is an ex-convent. But if you don't stay there, you can still stop for cocktails and see the grounds. We stayed at the Casa Cid for our 25th anniversary a few years back in the Bella Epoca room. Botique hotel of only 5 rooms. Customer service was top-notch, they arranged a surprise dinner for my wife and I (surprise for her) at Catedral with a semi-famous trio, Trio Fantasia. Famous at least in Oaxaca. http://www.casaciddeleon.com/eng/index.html
We've also stayed at Suites La Fe for an apartment type lodging. http://suiteslafe.com.mx/
Oaxaca probably has the most unique food in Mexico. If you're lucky, the State Marimba band often plays on Sunday evenings in the Zocalo. Otherwise, there are always small marimba groups playing for tips around the zocalo. The ruins of Monte Alban can easily be seen in a half day.
Anyway, that'd be some highlights. You could add/subtract a day as your itinerary allows. But I'd suggest something like that. Others may hopefully chime in as well.
I hope the $350 per day per person budget isn't pesos! If it's dollars, (CAD or US), then you'll travel like royalty.
8 days is not a lot of time, but certainly doable. If it were me, I'd probably do 3 nights CDMX, 1 night Puebla, and then 3 nights in Oaxaca.
In CDMX, the Condesa colonia is nice, with it's art-deco architecture, tree-lined streets & parks and many moderate to upscale sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Very romantic, safe, lots of people out walking either themselves or their dogs at all hours. Close to Chapultepec. The Red Tree House is a popular B & B, but is often booked a ways in advance. Chapultepec/Anthro museum will pretty much take up an entire day. Dedicate a full day to the centro historico.
Even though Puebla really deserves more than 1 night, I don't know that you'd have enough time to do more. I like the Hotel Colonial, not so much because it's super-luxurious, but for it's location. It's quiet and moderately priced. Dinner at the close-by Meson De Sacrista is a must. http://mesones-sacristia.com/espanol/restaurante.php
In Oaxaca, of course the classic hotel is the Quinta Real. However, it's popular with groups so that's a downside. The rooms tend to be a bit spartan, but it is an ex-convent. But if you don't stay there, you can still stop for cocktails and see the grounds. We stayed at the Casa Cid for our 25th anniversary a few years back in the Bella Epoca room. Botique hotel of only 5 rooms. Customer service was top-notch, they arranged a surprise dinner for my wife and I (surprise for her) at Catedral with a semi-famous trio, Trio Fantasia. Famous at least in Oaxaca. http://www.casaciddeleon.com/eng/index.html
We've also stayed at Suites La Fe for an apartment type lodging. http://suiteslafe.com.mx/
Oaxaca probably has the most unique food in Mexico. If you're lucky, the State Marimba band often plays on Sunday evenings in the Zocalo. Otherwise, there are always small marimba groups playing for tips around the zocalo. The ruins of Monte Alban can easily be seen in a half day.
Anyway, that'd be some highlights. You could add/subtract a day as your itinerary allows. But I'd suggest something like that. Others may hopefully chime in as well.
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Stewbear, thank you for your perspective. I see your point. It sounds like we'd better stick just to central Mexico (Mexico City and surrounding area) OR Oaxaca. We are fortunate to have direct flights from Houston to Oaxaca, however they are more than double the price of flying to Mexico City.
I called $700 per day moderate because it was below the budgets I was seeing from high end magazines like Travel + Leisure. It's not a typical travel budget for us, but we want to do something really special for our anniversary and first trip without our kids.
I called $700 per day moderate because it was below the budgets I was seeing from high end magazines like Travel + Leisure. It's not a typical travel budget for us, but we want to do something really special for our anniversary and first trip without our kids.
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Baldone,
$350 USD, yes. Of course, we're not committed to spending that much either! Less would be great. We just want a special trip.
Thank you SO MUCH for the specific hotel and B&B recommendations, and how much time we need for the museums, etc. I'm thinking that we are trying to do too much in 8 days, so if we have to pick just Oaxaca or just CDMX/Puebla (or CDMX/Guanajuato) what would you suggest given our interests? I don't know why Oaxaca has captured my fancy; something about reading the forum posts made it sound very appealing. But I'm thinking maybe CDMX+1 nearby city would be better for our first trip.
$350 USD, yes. Of course, we're not committed to spending that much either! Less would be great. We just want a special trip.
Thank you SO MUCH for the specific hotel and B&B recommendations, and how much time we need for the museums, etc. I'm thinking that we are trying to do too much in 8 days, so if we have to pick just Oaxaca or just CDMX/Puebla (or CDMX/Guanajuato) what would you suggest given our interests? I don't know why Oaxaca has captured my fancy; something about reading the forum posts made it sound very appealing. But I'm thinking maybe CDMX+1 nearby city would be better for our first trip.
#7
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
If you're gonna do CDMX & 1 more city, I really think you'd be happiest with Oaxaca, given your interests. If you do just 1, it'd be hard to choose between DF and Oaxaca. But, Oaxaca would probably be a lot more relaxing, and there'd be no need to take the metro etc. to get around as you would in DF. Puebla is worthwhile, but not dramatically different than CDMX, in that it's still a big, bustling city. Guanajuato isn't significantly closer by bus than Oaxaca, and the food is average at best, and the airport is some 40 minutes away while Oaxaca's is about 10 minutes, if you were to fly. There are really no ruins of significance near Gto, even though that might not be a must-see.
But in Oaxaca Monte Alban is so easy to get to, and the site itself is impressive overlooking the city and the valley. The Museum of Oaxacan Culture next to the Santa Domingo church is very worthwhile. If you do go to Oaxaca, any decent hotel can arrange for a driver/guide to take you to the central valleys to the Mezcal factories etc. and the rug weavers in Teotitlan de Valle. The El Tule tree is only kinda OK, but if you're going through there anyway it's worth 10 minutes or so
The ruins of Mitla are out that way as well, but to me, they're miss-able unless you're a real ruin-ophile and have the time. Otherwise, pretty much all of the sights/restaurants are within walking distance of pretty much any hotel. As I mentioned, Sundays in the zocalo is a real treat if either the marimba band is playing or the state orchestra, as the music floats through the plaza. Maybe, just maybe, you could convince your husband to dance along with the locals
The abandoned convent in Culiapan (sp?) where Vicente Guerrero was jailed and executed is kinda surreal; it still has remnants of the original frescoes.
The bus to Oaxaca passes through some spectacular scenery, once you get out of Puebla. You could fly to/from MEX on either Volaris or Interjet for cheap. Volaris has fares for under $40 US, Interjet about $60, but that might increase depending on how many suitcases hubby lets you take. But since you can fly United direct to IAH from OAX, it might be worth it, especially considering how much money you'd be saving under your $700/day budget!
But in Oaxaca Monte Alban is so easy to get to, and the site itself is impressive overlooking the city and the valley. The Museum of Oaxacan Culture next to the Santa Domingo church is very worthwhile. If you do go to Oaxaca, any decent hotel can arrange for a driver/guide to take you to the central valleys to the Mezcal factories etc. and the rug weavers in Teotitlan de Valle. The El Tule tree is only kinda OK, but if you're going through there anyway it's worth 10 minutes or so
The ruins of Mitla are out that way as well, but to me, they're miss-able unless you're a real ruin-ophile and have the time. Otherwise, pretty much all of the sights/restaurants are within walking distance of pretty much any hotel. As I mentioned, Sundays in the zocalo is a real treat if either the marimba band is playing or the state orchestra, as the music floats through the plaza. Maybe, just maybe, you could convince your husband to dance along with the locals
The abandoned convent in Culiapan (sp?) where Vicente Guerrero was jailed and executed is kinda surreal; it still has remnants of the original frescoes. The bus to Oaxaca passes through some spectacular scenery, once you get out of Puebla. You could fly to/from MEX on either Volaris or Interjet for cheap. Volaris has fares for under $40 US, Interjet about $60, but that might increase depending on how many suitcases hubby lets you take. But since you can fly United direct to IAH from OAX, it might be worth it, especially considering how much money you'd be saving under your $700/day budget!
Trending Topics
#8
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
My favorite colonial towns in Mexico are Valladolid and Merida. There is so much to do in that area!
I checked the airfare from Houston to Merida and its $400 or less in September. LOTS of ruins, great food, Merida has diverse and free entertainment every night of the week in various public zocalas. There is a trip report here from someone who reviewed lots of restaurants.
If you are interested in a guest house, Las Escalaras is great! Neil is a fantastic host, it's comfortable, clean, well located and around $65/ night.
You can either rent a car and drive easily too many local ruins, such as Chichen Itzs, Ek Balam, Izmar, or spend a day at Progresso Beach 40k away. Public transportation is really easy and inexpensive there. If you don't want to Rent-A-Car, you can easily take a bus, or a taxi wherever you need to go.
Valladolid is wonderful on a smaller scale. We usually stay at El Meson de Márquez, but for a treat, I'd stay at Hotel Zantik Project and eat at their fantastic restaurant Naino. There is a private home open for tours if you are interested in Mexican folk art, it's definitely worth a few nights in Valladolid. Can't remember the details, but check Trip Advisor, it's the #1 activity in Valladolid, much to the amusement of the owner. It may only be open a few days a week.
What ever you decide, have a great time!
I checked the airfare from Houston to Merida and its $400 or less in September. LOTS of ruins, great food, Merida has diverse and free entertainment every night of the week in various public zocalas. There is a trip report here from someone who reviewed lots of restaurants.
If you are interested in a guest house, Las Escalaras is great! Neil is a fantastic host, it's comfortable, clean, well located and around $65/ night.
You can either rent a car and drive easily too many local ruins, such as Chichen Itzs, Ek Balam, Izmar, or spend a day at Progresso Beach 40k away. Public transportation is really easy and inexpensive there. If you don't want to Rent-A-Car, you can easily take a bus, or a taxi wherever you need to go.
Valladolid is wonderful on a smaller scale. We usually stay at El Meson de Márquez, but for a treat, I'd stay at Hotel Zantik Project and eat at their fantastic restaurant Naino. There is a private home open for tours if you are interested in Mexican folk art, it's definitely worth a few nights in Valladolid. Can't remember the details, but check Trip Advisor, it's the #1 activity in Valladolid, much to the amusement of the owner. It may only be open a few days a week.
What ever you decide, have a great time!
#9
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 0
Monte Alban is truly a treat. One of my favorite sites & easy to get to/from on the tourist bus (also used by local peddlers), Plan a half a day there at least. There are a number of English speaking guides available on site for a small fee.
Be sure to visit the gift shop & view restaurant which is a nice rest stop at the end.
Be sure to visit the gift shop & view restaurant which is a nice rest stop at the end.
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
ginger50,
Thank you for the suggestions! A few years ago we'd planned to visit Valladolid during a Yucatan vacation, but our trip was interrupted. I'm glad to know it will be worth our while to repeat those plans at some point. With their proximity to the coast, I wonder if Merida and Valladolid are more prone to hurricane-related weather than Oaxaca or central Mexico? Since we're going in September I was thinking avoiding the coast could be helpful, but I don't really know.
Thank you for the suggestions! A few years ago we'd planned to visit Valladolid during a Yucatan vacation, but our trip was interrupted. I'm glad to know it will be worth our while to repeat those plans at some point. With their proximity to the coast, I wonder if Merida and Valladolid are more prone to hurricane-related weather than Oaxaca or central Mexico? Since we're going in September I was thinking avoiding the coast could be helpful, but I don't really know.
#11
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
Hurricanes aside, Merida and Valladolid will be hot (90's) in September.And humid. Being inland, there won't be much breeze either.
CDMX, @ 7200 feet, will be pleasant with highs typically in the 70's. Oaxaca a few degrees warmer.
CDMX, @ 7200 feet, will be pleasant with highs typically in the 70's. Oaxaca a few degrees warmer.
#12
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
baldone,
I appreciate your help understanding the weather. I just talked to my husband, and thanks to your help, we've decided to fly into and out of Oaxaca. Your description of its walkability, charm, music, food, ruins, etc sold us! Given the area's safety and stability that I've read about elsewhere, we're hoping to see if we want to bring our whole family back for an extended stay. Perhaps then, during a longer visit, we can include Mexico City. I hate to miss it now, but I hope we have many, many visits to Mexico in our future. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! I look forward to exploring your specific B&B, hotel, and other recommendations.
I appreciate your help understanding the weather. I just talked to my husband, and thanks to your help, we've decided to fly into and out of Oaxaca. Your description of its walkability, charm, music, food, ruins, etc sold us! Given the area's safety and stability that I've read about elsewhere, we're hoping to see if we want to bring our whole family back for an extended stay. Perhaps then, during a longer visit, we can include Mexico City. I hate to miss it now, but I hope we have many, many visits to Mexico in our future. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! I look forward to exploring your specific B&B, hotel, and other recommendations.
#13
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
Good decision. I think my friend Stewbear would agree that Mexico is best enjoyed when one doesn't have to rush or try to see too much all in one trip, whether it's Oaxaca, Mexico City, or Guanajuato. A week will let you get a good feel for Oaxaca and the central valleys.
One thing to add, there's a great coffee seller in the Benito Juarez market, "El Grano De Oro", he blends to your preference. Have a great trip!
One thing to add, there's a great coffee seller in the Benito Juarez market, "El Grano De Oro", he blends to your preference. Have a great trip!
#14
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 0
Agree. A week is barley enough in the Oaxaca area. With the various ruins & natural phenomenons, the city itself with great unique food,museums & architecture plus the many villages with unique crafts & market days I found 5 weeks there not too long.
I would be amiss however if I failed to mention the demonstrations by both the unions & the police on the main Plaza became tiresome (no danger however)
The obvious poverty & the "hooker" blocks (3 blocks I saw) while not aggressive I found to be a bit sad.
On balance the women's market place with crafts, foods & the best coffee ever was a delight.Also some of the best Mercados anywhere.
PS We had a extra treat with the Saint Petersburg, Russia Ballet troop appearing at the most lovely main theater. Possibly the best dance performance of my life.
I would be amiss however if I failed to mention the demonstrations by both the unions & the police on the main Plaza became tiresome (no danger however)
The obvious poverty & the "hooker" blocks (3 blocks I saw) while not aggressive I found to be a bit sad.
On balance the women's market place with crafts, foods & the best coffee ever was a delight.Also some of the best Mercados anywhere.
PS We had a extra treat with the Saint Petersburg, Russia Ballet troop appearing at the most lovely main theater. Possibly the best dance performance of my life.
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pollybenedict
Mexico & Central America
27
May 11th, 2014 01:42 PM
SShprints
Mexico & Central America
18
Aug 16th, 2012 05:19 AM
hobbitthefoodlover
Mexico & Central America
18
Apr 14th, 2010 09:17 AM




