My wife and I returned one week ago and I wanted to share our trip with everyone that posts so much help and info. We are in our late 50's, early 60's, independent travellers and booked most everything ourselves. Forgive my spelling and other errors.

We arrive Friday morning. Got pesos at the bank exchange in the arrival area. The hotel arranged a remise to pick us up, us$30. Stayed all 8 nights at the Art Hotel in Recoleta. Rooms were on the small side but very livable and comfortable and hotel staff was always there to help with directions, questions, recommendations. We would stay there again. us$105 a night including a nice breakfast buffet and taxes which is 21%.

We explored the neighborhood and had lunch around the corner at Celetto's. A small Italian restuarant, 3 course meal with wine and tip was 70 pesos, a very good meal. We walked the afternoon away, mostly Santa Fe ave., and had a light dinner at Doero's on Sante Fe, epmenadas, salads and wine, 75peso w/tip. It was just o.k.

Saturday, up for coffee and breakfast at the hotel then walked to Recoleta cemetary and the fair,about 8 to 10 blocks. We wandered the cemetary on our own, it is the most amazing place. We went back on Thursday for the english speaking tour and it was worth the second visit, its not so much about Evita as the other Argentina greats. Picked up a few small souvieners at the fair and then stopped for lunch at La Biela. Sandwich, pizza, tea, beers, and trimmings 110pesos. Its tourist prices but what the hey. Its is a beutiful setting, street musicians playing, and good service. My first Quillime beer, very good. Next up was Hotel Alvear and Ave Alvear. Worth a look but its all high priced stores. The Ralph Lauren store is in an old mansion and fun to roam thru, it looks lost in the high rise buildings beside it. I bought a pair of over priced shoes at Gino Forto store next to Hotel Alvear but they're nice and I don't know when I'll get back, ha. An afternoon stop for tea and beer 13peso. Lots more walking and a short rest back at the hotel. Dinner at Clark's on Quintana. Jamon salad, 2 1/2 chorizo steaks, garlic spinach, bottle water, bottle of melbac 170 peso. It was o.k. but I wouldn't go back.

At this point I should say I'm sorry I didn't go to more of the restaraunts recommend on this site but there are so many choices were ever you might be, also I think its hard to find a bad meal anywhere.

I should also say we walked about 4 to 6 miles a day. We also took cabs but if you don't walk off some of the food, they will have to roll you onto the airplane for home. We never had a problem with cabs, we watched for radio cabs and always had small bills on hand, always tried to get change from larger bills when I bought from a regular store or restaraunt. Used ATMs at the banks, most of the time things went smooth but some atms didn't work. We were limited to 300pesos at a time but you can do another transaction over and over.

Sunday morning walked to Plaza San Martin and on to Calle Florida. Window shopped and enjoyed the slow pace of few Sunday shoppers. A pretty street, some entertainment and a large selection of merchandise. On down Peru and into San Telmo for the fair. This was over welming for one day. You can't see it all and thats a shame. This was our only rainy day and some of the vendors left early. Its really an antique, crafts, and flea market rolled into one neighborhood. A good overload for the senses. The crowds outside La Brigada for lunch were too long so we opted for La Rosalia across the street, could not have been better. Salad, lomo, flan (best ever), wine, tea, and water 150pesos. Great service, good presentation and very friendly people. No english spoken here. We only speak limited spanish but found everyone so helpful that you can get by without it. Spent the rest of the day at the fair and walked back to the hotel for a rest. Dinner Sunday night was at Cocina & Cia on Av. Santa Fe. Its a parrilla buffet, all you can eat. Good salads and side dished but cuts of meat were just o.k. 101 pesos w/tip and several beers. Home by 11:00. Can you see what I mean about walking off all the food?

Monday another day in paradise. Walked down Av Santa Fe to Av 9 de Julio. You can't believe it till you see it. A very wide street. Most of the time we could cross in only 2 lights but sometimes it did take 3 stop lights to cross. A good view of the Obelisco from anywhere on the Avenue. We asked the doorman at the Panameican Hotel about upstairs restaraunts and ended up on the 23rd floor for a coffee break and beutiful view looking down on the Obelisco and Av 9 de Julio, what a great photo op. 2 cafe con leche, 25 pesos but worth the price just for the view. On to the Plaza Mayo and the Pink house. We did see the most famous and tourist sites on the trip but you can see those high lights in any travel book. Next up was a stroll along Puerto Madero. The best site is the Bridge of Woman and the yachts. Lunch today is on the patio of La Caballeriza, another parrilla. A grilled provolan cheese with seasoning, salad, asarda ribs, and drinks. 135pesos. A side note, the salt is super fine crystals and not strong, even blows away in any wind, also pepper was not on most tables or offered. Back to Calle Florida for more souvieners. Very tired tonight so we had some wine in the room and walked to a neighborhood pizza place. Pizza a couple of beers and ice cream 50pesos.

Next post will be about our day trips...if your not tired of my writing.

Thank you for a great report, larrya!

Keep'em coming!

Who would dare be tired of your writing? LOL!!!!

larrya, thanks so much for posting ! Very enjoyable read!

We really like La Rosalie in San Telmo too..
Yes, definitely keep posting !!

Tuesday morning breakfast, a walk to Plaza San Martin and a visit to the Falkland War Mermorial. This very much reminded me of the Vietnam memorial "wall", a somber moment for any veteran. Next stop was to Retiro estacion and tickets to the delta. We took the Tren De La Costa and thought it was the way to go. They don't sell round trip tickets so you have to purchase them in Tigre for the return. Going they charged me 10peso for 2 but on the return they charged me 16peso for 2, the difference between being a local verses tourist. We wanted to get off at different stations and look around but ran out of time.

Walked around Tigre and ate a snack while we figured out the best way to see the waterways. The choices are how long do you want to spend on a boat or stuck on an island, 1 hour, 2 hours, or 4+ hours. We chose a 1 hour tour and hired are own boat and captain. 180 peso total. The boat Macadam II and Captain Fernando were both great. Between our spanish and his english we got along perfectly. Your never going much over 4-5 mph so you can enjoy the sights. Lots of second homes, all built on stilts. Mostly modest places but some mansions, park areas and lots of rowing clubs. A good place to visit with a guide or you would get lost. We had Fernado drop us off at the Puerto de Frutos market. This was mid April and Tigre was slow, only about 20 stalls were open. This would be a great place to shop if you live there but most things were too large to carry home. On the way to the train we stopped at the casino long enough for my wife to lose a few pesos. The amusement park was not opened. Back toBA. Ourbest and most expensive dinner of the trip. We ate at El Miraso de la Recova. A grilled provolone/red pepper/ham/spices starter, heart of palm salad, 400gr lomo point and a 300gr lomo, both melt in your mouth tender, and a shared dessert of ice cream, walnut, carmel, and cookies topped with chocolate sauce, add in a couple of bottles of water and a "good" bottle of wine and w/tip the price was 300 pesos. Next time we would split one meat dish. I left a few bites but couldn't eat anymore. This was a very nice place but we felt we were treated like 2nd class clients,shift the tourists upstairs out of site, the people were not friendly, stiff and stuffy. We met another couple at the airport and they told of the same experience. I would still recommend El Mirasol and thought it was worth the splurge.

Wednesday we had the hotel set up a estancia visit. This was probably the most touristy thing we did but it was a fun day and something you would see or do on your own. We went to Estancea La Alameda, about 1 and 1/2 hours south of BA. 3 other buses were there also. A pretty setting and lots to do, horse riding, buggy rides, native dancers, a show, music, gaucho riding skills, food and drinks. Overall it was a good day. Met new people and enjoyed the shows. There are probably better estancias to go to but you should go. Door to door was about us$65 each. Dinner tonight was back at Celetto, the italian rest. for salads, raviolies, chicken and drinks. 100pesos w/tip.

Thursday morning we walked to Recoleta cemetary for the english tour. I think this is a must do to really appreciate the place. Some of the tombs are in really bad shape and and I don't think they will last much longer. BA needs an adopt a tomb program where a club or group of people take care of 1 tomb. Next was a cab ride to La Boca. Lunch at La Estufa, salads, calamari, pork, waters and Quilmes 75pesos. Here is where the street hustlers will drive you nuts, they are all trying to get you to their restaraunts plus each place is blasting out load music. Most of the stores seemed overpriced but the small craft fair had good prices. More souveiners and gifts, I bought 3 handmade knives w/cases for 150pesos total, I wish I had gotten more for gifts. This whole area is overkill on your senses but a fun place for a couple of hours. We cabbed back to Plaza de Mayo to see the Madres march. A sad thing to see but another must thing to see, the bad along with the good. From here a short walk to Cafe Tortoni, this place reminded us of Madrid. Chocolate and churros for a snack, 20pesos. We also made reservations for the tango show that night, 120pesos for 2. The show is held in the basement on a small stage, a small venue so good views and not alot of people. The door open an hour early so you can order food and drinks. We had a chees plate for 2 and wine, 75pesos. We had more than enough to share with the others at our table. This may not be an authentic but it was very entertaining. Music and a variety show and not just dancing. I thought this was well worth the price and would go back again.

Friday morning and its very smokey outside from the fires on the pampas. Suppose to be the farmers burning of the stubble but I think there is some politics involved with it. Some flights out of the local airport are being delayed. We walk alittle on Sante Fe and then cab to Murillo street. There are so many stores and leather items that after awhile things all start looking the same. We ended up buying a couple of coats and purses at decent prices. Had lunch at a small cafe while they altered the one coat, canelones, chorizo asada and drinks 40pesos. If your looking for any leather goods you should go to this area first and then compare quality and price as you travel around BA. Back to the hotel for a rest and to start packing for the next day. Dinner tonight is at Parrilla Tabare, what a fantastic way to end the trip. A white salmon with spinch sauce, brochette of lomo, tomato salad, a browney with ice cream and chocolate sauce, wine and water 150pesos. We also got a complienmentry glass of champagne, we think because they were out of the orange flan we wanted. No english spoken but the staff were very friendly and helpful. This place should be on your list of places to eat. A walk and cigar back to the hotel for a well deserved rest.

Saturday morning and we finish packing and check out. We leave our bags at the hotel and walk to the cemetary entrance to met Raoul and Angeliga, a couple we met at the estancia for beer and coffee at La Biela. More last minute shopping at the Recoleta fair and back to the hotel. Didn't know what to expect on the way to the airport and left a little early. United didn't open until 6 pm but the lines formed quick. Check in then pay exit tax, upstairs for immigration stamps, and into terminal for duty free shopping. My wife got Havanna cookies and I got Havanna cigars for me. Not much selection of food places but 1 small decent cafe. I would eat a late lunch before heading to the airport and plan on a snack there.

A few general thoughts on BA. We diffenently hated to leave and will return sometime. Next trip will be 3 days BA and then on to other parts of Argentia. BA is a beautiful city with clean streets lots of parks and plazas, and friendly people. I would have liked to spend more time in San Telmo, eaten at a few more of the recommended restaraunts, bought a couple more cd's. I don't regret doing any of the touristy things because you would never see them anyway. Overall we rated this as one of our best travel adventures and look forward to returning.

Totally enjoyable trip report!! Thank you!

I like the Celetto in Recoleta but they closed..we now go over to the one you went to
I love the Bellinis that they give you with the hot bread when you sit down.

I like the way you saw Tigre..and will look into the estancia for us too.
Our son is coming to visit and we want to line up some day trips .. to go with the trip to Bariloche which is probably one of the places, where you should go next time

Scarlett, I totally forgot about the Bellinis, we had never had it before but enjoyed it both visits along with the cheese bread.