Okay, granted I haven't yet rolled out the trip report but will try this weekend! In the meantime here are some pics and videos from my trip. (yes I take a lot of pics, especially in cemeteries!)

3 folders of pics - Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, & Iguazu:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLan...localeid=en_US

link to 8 videos - http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...mp;view=videos

It looks like you had a fantastic time. Your photos are great.
And the videos too. I really loved the butterfly swirl video. I remember seeing them and trying to capture them on my camera .
And the falls....well, just spectacular!!!

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you Kodi. Yes, I saw those clusters of butterflies several times, they are lovely. I especially loved the "ocho" butterfly as well.

Here's my report....
Buenos Aires & Iguazu 10/23 - 11/01

Flights - Used FF miles for flight on AA, Tampa-Miami-BA. No complaints. Flew on 777's between Miami and BA, seatback videos, dinner & breakfast. Slept a good portion of the flight.

EZE - thru the airport bery quickly. Before leaving the secured area, I changed some USD into ARG at Banco National, she would only break one of the 100's into smaller bills though. Asked around at various transfer booths and the going rate seemed to be around 110-120 ARG but I knew I had read that Taxi Ezeiza was cheaper, so I hoped I would be able to find them once I left the secured area, which I did - they were right there when you walk out, the fare was 98 ARG and 68 ARG for the return to EZE. I honestly don't recall the length or the trip into BA as I fell asleep.

Hotel - stayed at Loi Suites Recoleta twice, first for 4 nights and then for 1 final night. Even though I wasn't crazy about my first room (I could hear the dumbwaiter below) I really liked this hotel for several reasons: first the location was perfect for me. Under 5 minutes to the Cemetery and plenty of restaurants and shopping. The staff were very friendly, free internet access and comfy, clean rooms. My second room was on the 9th floor which I really enjoyed for the view. They have a spa onsite and even though the massage was over-priced (240 ARG), they arranged with short-notice and it was one of the best I've had as well. Their breakfast is included in the room rate and it offers enough to last you thru the day, I often had very light lunches afterwards. Again the location was the highpoint for me, being a solo female traveler I felt extremely secure here and the area was very pleasant to walk around.

Food & Wine & Coffee - First up, I am not a foodie. I honestly think of food as fuel, so I didn't visit any of the "in" restaurants or stray at night very far from my hotel. If I ate at touristy places, that was okay as that is what I was Two of the nights I ate at 2 restaurants right around the corner, they were simply okay and prices were about 60-80 ARG. The night before I left for Iguazu I wimped out and ordered room service, which was again was fine. The two best meals I had were at 2 restaurants closest to the hotel actually - La Chacrita on Junin and Rodi Bar on Vincente Lopez. Both were excellent and had great service. Most nights I ate as early as I could, around 8:30 and they would start filling up by the time I was leaving. I didn't really do any lunches - a quick on the go bite in Tigre at a food stand, 2 empandadas in San Telmo, and yes, french fries at McD's. I know the wines in Argentina get raves, sadly I just don't have a taste for it other than sweet Reislings, so other than a taster sip at one place, I did not indulge. The ice cream though, I certainly did! I think I stopped by Freddo's every night, getting the 2 flavour 10 ARG small cone size, very delicious and I rewarded myself as I had walked so much every day. I also drank a lot of coffee, usually at La Biela, right around the corner from my hotel. It costs more there than at other places, a very small for 7 ARG but it was a great place for people watching and convenient. There is a place on the other corner from La Biela called Aroma (with a Freddo's inside as well) with cheaper coffee but I could never find an empty seat there. I can also understand the love of alfajores, very yummy but I tried to keep myself in check. The best one I had actually I grabbed by chance, never to come across that type again.

Security, Taxi's & Money - No problems. I was admittedly nervous after reading some stories but even on a jam-packed stoll down Florida St (ugh!) no one bothered me. I usually carried my purse or a string-type sack, my money I took more care with - in a small change purse in my front pocket, with a car key loop attaching it to my belt loop. I brought most of my cash with me, so only used atm's twice. Both required a card to even enter the atm location and were both empty. I had a fee of about $1.25 on each withdrawl (took out 290 ARG both times). I usually used 100 ARG notes at restaurants to break them, only once (at a small shop) would they not break the bill. I always checked it before handing it to anyone, looking for the watermark. I used radio taxi's 3 times (on my own) and other than one confusing start, all went well and (since I knew the routes) they all took the quickest way to get to my destination. All were just under 20 ARG.

Tour Guides & Travel Agents - I used two of the best IMHO. Isabel at Buenos Aires Tours ([email protected] website www.buenosaires-tours.com.ar) ) arranged my flights to Iguazu and hotel there. She is funny and always on top of everything, giving you great tips and checking up on you. Her fee is very reasonable and she definitely goes above and beyond; we met in my hotel the day of my arrival and chatted for a while. Nothing but praise. The other tour guide I used is Carla Horton at Buenos Aires Historico ([email protected] website www.buenosaireshistorico.com) Again, nothing but praise. I spent pretty much all day with Carla Saturday and Sunday, myself being the only client (I believe she only takes a max group of 4 people). She doesn't simply rehash tour talking points, she knows so much about the areas and the history, and it was nice to just have a someone to walk around and chat with, we covered politics, cats, government etc. Her tours are definitely not canned, precisely timed tours, we wandered and dawdled as it suited and she always had an answer for any question. I would highly recommend both, no hestitations.

Day tours - I took two with BA Historico, above. The first was an all day to Tigre and San Isidro. We took the normal train going up and the Tren de la Costa part of the way on the return. Tigre is very charming and well-kept. We wandered over to the fruit market and the older market, at one point watching stunned as a huge crane loading a boat dropped it's entire load into the water. A crowd gathered as we watched it uselessly dipping into the water trying to find it's goods again. The markets were fun to walk around, if I had a nearby house to furnish it would've been even better! We took a smaller, and cheaper, water taxi than available other places. The occaisional commentary was in spanish but it didn't really matter as Carla would translate and not much was needed anyway, it was nice to just see all the houses along the Delta. I think the one hour tour is plenty, there are longer ones offered but that would be too much imho. Onto San Isidro with it's beautiful cathedral and quiet leafy streets. If you visit this area I would walk up the street to the top of the hill and visit the Museo, Biblioteca y Archivo Historico. It's a beautiful restored house with old photos and mementos. The second all day tour I took was a city tour. We started at the cemetery, where again Carla's knowledge gives you great background and you learn much more about the place than how to find you way to Evita! Onward by taxi to La Boca, which I enjoyed very much. Crowded and touristy yes but very fun, a nice spirit to it and I liked hearing about the area and the people who live(d) there. Saw many people during my trip wearing knitted capes and shawls and here and in San Telmo were the best prices. One thing to note - as we were leaving there is an area where guys have vests marked TAXI and will arange a taxi for you. Although it sure seems convenient, apparently this is often a scam, as they put you in taxis who will run up the meter or take the long way around. After La Boca we took a taxi to Casa Rosada and walked around Plaza de Mayo, into the Church, and onto San Telmo. Again, crowded and touristy but good deals (especially on the Inca Rose stone you see everywhere, almost costs triple at the airport) and it was starting to get very hot. A very lively street scene and both La Boca and San Telmo are worth hitting up on the weekends on a visit.

Sights, shopping & the city - I walked a lot, so I was thankful for comfy shoes. My first day there, on not much sleep or food, I walked a 4 mile route from my hotel, up Ave 9 de Julio to the Obelisk, down to Florda Street (crowded, hot and tacky), to Plaza San Martin and back to the hotel. Another day, 6 miles, was spent from Casa Rosada to Puerto Madero, back up to Ave Santa Fe and amazing myself only missing my hotel by 1 block without having to whip out my map. Puerto Madero is pretty but sterile and I'm glad I did not stay there. You would really need to rely on taxi's a lot. I hit up a couple of shopping plaza's - Paseo Alcorta (yawn) and Patio Bullrich (better, but nothing very different than your normal high-end mall). For souvenirs and knick-knacks I relied on the feria's at La Boca, San Telmo and Recoleta. The nicest little shop I found was an hour or so before I was leaving and by the time I was back at the hotel waiting on my ride to the airport I kicked myself for not grabbing a purse there as their prices were very fair compared to what I saw elsewhere. It was called Tradiciones and it was on Ayachucho, a couple blocks from Vincente Lopez. I spent a minimum of an hour, usually more, at the Cemetery every day I was in town. Maybe morbid but I found it peaceful and relaxing, away from the hubbub of the city and fascinating to wander around and get lost in.
Iguazu & the Sheraton - flew LAN, departing from Aeroparque, flight delayed 1 hour on departure. On check-in they gave my (as reserved) a jungle view room, but did give me the far corner room which overlooking the jungle and was much better than staring at the parking lot (I know Isabel called them prior several times before so she probably had some influence here, as well as I am a Starwood Member - albeit with no stays under my belt). Walking out of the small cute 2 gate airport into the heat and dozens of butterflies on the sidewalk I knew this place was right up my alley. First off, yes the Sheraton is over-priced and the 1970's bunker style hotel isn't exactly appealing, the rooms need serious updating and repair (I came back after a major storm to find a small river on the floor from the sliding glass doors). That said, the service was friendly and very accomodating, the internet area always had an open computer and of course the location is hard to beat. Viewing the falls from the bar or from the pool is an obvious advantage, but more so is hitting the park before the mass of group tours get there. Twice I had trails entirely to myself until about 11am or so and after being caught unawares in a sudden downpour (the kind where you give up trying to run or find shelter as you're so sompletely soaked it doesn't matter) it was nice to be able to take the few minutes walk back to the hotel, change and head out again into the park. It is a very clean, well kept park, trash cans everywhere (and coatis looting them), with excellent signage and of course catch your breath views of the falls. My camera seemed to have a mind of it's own as every few steps would be another incedible view. The roar is hard to describe and there is a slight mist always in the air. I would prepare to get soaked at Devil's Throat. Maybe as it was windy and the storm had just ended but it was almost a challenge to see thru the spray at times. I attempted Sendero Macuco twice but both times was blocked by a 30 ft or so stretch of underwater trail that was impossible to get around. Several times I would have 2 or 3 butterflies sticking to my hands or arms, if the sun is out they are quite hard to avoid. Isla San martin was closed when I was there, due to the heavy rains of late and the high water level, which was a shame as I'd heard it was much less crowded as people don't like all the steps. My only criticism of the park is I found it extremely crowded in the afternoons, unbearably so. The second day I was there I attempted to take the trainout again to Devi's Throat (they run every 30 minutes) but after waiting 2 rounds, an hour, and still a good trainful or two away from getting on, I bailed. One bit of advice - I'd got this advice in Costa Rica but never had a reason to use it before. On my first day there, after getting drenched, my merrill hikers were throughly soaked and I worried about them even drying 2 days later when I had to pack up again. I went down to the gift store and bought the previous days paper and stuffed as much as I could into my shoes; later I took out the wet paper and put in some more - by morning they were completely dry, so it really does work. All in all, I would say Iguazu is a can't miss location, I wouldn't mind spending more time in the area and exploring more. I spent 2 nights and almost 3 full days there and wouldn't have mined more.
Departing - not as much hassle as I assumed. For my Friday flight at 10pm, we left at 6pm and although it seemed like we spent 90% of that in clogged traffic in the city, we still made it there in 50 minutes. Check-in took about 10 minutes, the exit tax took about 2 minutes and security took about 5 minutes, so I ended up with a lot of extra time. One note - even if you buy some water past security you are not allowed to bring it on the plane, so I had to toss an unopened bottle of water out. Despite the mass of people crowding the gate to get on the plane, we left on time to my surprise. Since I have trouble sleeping on planes, I took a little 'help' to make me go to sleep; apparently I took a little too much. I woke 5 hours later needing to use the restroom. In my fog I poked and pulled for a couple minutes at the door before a nice guy kindly got up and opened it for the dopey blonde.
Thoughts - well, I had a good time but I don't think BA is really the place for me and I doubt I will return, to BA at least. I do love big cities such as Paris & London, but maybe I have been traveling to Costa Rica for too long now and BA was extremely overwhelming to me, and a little stressful. I'm not naive and I knew BA was very populous and large but still on arriving I was a little taken back at just how much so. The cars, the people, the energy, the noise....I know to many people that will appeal, and does, but it just turned out it wasn't for me in the end. I came back about as wound up as before I left, although Iguazu did give me a brief respite. So, again, there was not one moment or anything that marred my trip, and I did have a nice time, I think there are just different places that appeal to me to return to and BA was not one of them. I'd like to thank all the posters here at the forum who have posted ther thoughts and advice, it certainly helped in many instances on my trip!

Hi tully:

Thank you very much for great report and your opinions of Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls.

It was nice to re-live my visit there last year.

I could almost follow your footsteps 100% to all the places you went.

I can just picture you walking down July 9th Avenue with the Obelisk and then to Florida street and then to San Martin's Park.

Did you take a picture of yoursef in front of the lovely San Martin statue/monument .?

Please put up some of the pictures of you doing the Tango in La Boca.

You are right in saying it is difficult to explain your first seeing the Devil's Throat, you just have to hear that roar and feel the mist on your face.
At least you can hear the roar on your videos.

I kept my camera tucked under my shirt, to keep it dry.

Yep,Costa Rica has spoiled you.!
Thanks Again
Percy

Tully,
Thanks for a great trip report and absolutely wonderful pictures. It’s the first time I ever seen Recoleta Cemetery pictures, now it’s on my list of things to see when in BA (hopefully in 2010). Iguazu seems fantastic, good to hear that there’s enough to see and do there for 2-3 days, since staying one night in one place is definitely not our style.

Loved all the butterfly pictures, wow, what diversity! And that black and white iguana, was that on the Sheraton grounds? Thanks

tully, I really enjoyed reading your report and looking at all of your photos. I love the way you photographed the Cemetery .. you caught the beauty of it !
You also made Tigre very appealing ..

What shoes did you wear in BA that were good?
I am glad you liked the Loi Suites..

Percy - after I lost a camera in the Osa due to humidity my dad bought me a waterproog camera which definitely came in handy at the falls. If you notice in the videos they sometimes jerk hard to the right, that is me getting sprayed and trying to duck it

xyz - yes that lizard was near the grounds at the Sheraton, it was near what the call the old hotel. I was so focused on that guy I didn't realize there were 3 more behind me and then a coati wandered over too! The butterflies were abundant, which was weird as I was talking to a guest at the Sheraton and she said she hadn't seen a single one. I guess time of day and weather factors in.

Scarlett - I spent so much time walking around Recoleta I was always on the lookout for a lady walking a poodle (that is what you have, right?) Yes, Loi worked out great for me, the location couldn't been better for what I wanted. Both pairs of my shoes for walking were Merrill's, not sure of the exact types but one was a strappy sandal and the other were low cut tennis shoes. Thanks about the pics, I really found the cemetery peaceful and loved looking at all the different styles. And missing my cats I found all the felines a good substitute.

tully

Will you please stop trying to evade my request and put on that video of you doing the Tango on the street in La Boca. ><

Good Night

Percy

Hi Tully!

I just looked at your photos and read your report. You got some really nice pics! As a fellow feline fan, I loved all the kitty cat ones.

Iguazu looks absolutely amazing, and I'd love to see the Recoleta Cemetery. Sounds like you were able to appreciate your visit to Argentina, but your heart really does belong to CR at this point (I understand! ;-) ). One of my co-workers has traveled all over Central and South America and he says that Southern Argentina is one of the most amazing places he's ever been to, so maybe one day you'll have to head back down and explore other parts of the country.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and photos! See you on the CR threads...

Hi Tully,
Great pictures, really enjoyed them and makes me even more excited about our trip in March.

We never spend a lot of time in BA, coming from NY, we have enough hustle/bustle here. We love the country, glad you went to Iguazu, thought it was one of the most amazing places. You should give AR another shot, there's so much to see in the country, just like Costa Rica, but I think a bit more diverse.

Welcome back and thank you for the report!

Percy I'm sorry but those videos have been erased due to international security concerns I will have to leave all security incidents to you and shillmac!

cam - thanks, yes those kitties made missing mine a little better. Boy one thing CR has spoiled me in are the flights, I was so used to that 2 1/2 hour hop and then to be flying for 9 hours! Ugh

owlwoman - thanks as well. Yes there are so many lovely places in AR I had a hard time choosing, I know there are many places down there I'd love to look into, places a little more low-key. CR does have such a pull for me though, now I just have to wait another 7 months to get down there!

Maybe the video can be recovered like deleted items off a hard drive.!!!

I will let shillmac handle this. It is too complex for me.

But I sure wanted to see THAT video.

(Boo-Hoo)
Good Night
Percy

Beautiful pictures, tully. I love the falls! Was that one animal a coati? It looked a little different than the CR ones.

vg - thanks! Yes it was a coati, they had more of an all-ov ertan/brown colouring than their CR cousins. They did however have the same exact raiding of the trash style.

Ah, well then you felt right at home!