G2T

Just returned from a trip to Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley and Lake Titicacca organized in large part from suggestions on this post. I won’t belabor the details but try to answer some questions that I had before I left.

Lima Airport?--We arrived into Lima from Los Angeles at midnight but our morning flight to Cusco was at 5 AM. We figured that it wasn’t worth it to hire a taxi to take us to a hotel but have to return in just several hours but wasn’t sure what Lima airport was like. First, Lima Airport is far superior to most American airports—more modern, cleaner with more amenities. There is a 24 hour food court and gift shop where many travelers are also awaiting early morning flights. There is a Dunkin Donuts, McDonalds, Pizza Hut and a Chicken place open all night. In the departure terminals (after security), there are rows of seats without armrests that are surprisingly comfortable to lay down and sleep. We had no problems even with a family of 5. Safe and clean.

Cusco versus Sacred Valley—Upon arriving to Cusco, we did not experience the attitude initially. However, we stayed in Urubamba figuring to acclimate first. It turned out to be a good choice because later on a trip, nearly all my kids had some altitude sickness when we returned to Cusco. To be safe, I would stay in the Sacred Valley first. We stayed at Sol y Luna in a family bungalow which for a family, is as ideal an accommodation as you can get. The free wi-fi throughout the complex was especially helpful.

Sacred Valley—We spent the following two days touring the Sacred Valley including Ollantaytambo, Pisac (market is big but don’t expect bargains), Illama-Alpaca farm/showroom (actually worthwhile since you get to feed and ride the animals), Salt Mines (don’t miss, surprisingly interesting) and visiting a school in Huiloc. No great insights there. For restaurants we ate at Doña Clorinda in Pisac serving “typical” Peruvian food that was good but unremarkable. In Urubamba, we ate at Huacatay that looks like a hole in the wall and has an outdoor kitchen but absolutely excellent food. We also ate a Killa Wasi which although expensive, was consistently good. We also ate a Maisal in Urubamba that offered a lunch buffet. Not too interesting.

Machu Picchu—Took the train like many to visit MP. Would strongly recommend staying overnight at Aguas Calientes. I really wished we had because we would have gotten there before the crowds. Still amazing.

Cusco—Explored ruins around Cusco, visited the Cusco indoor market, a large supermarket to buy “unusual” foods, ate at our guides’ home and walked around the plaza a bit. Attitude sickness with our kids cut short my plans to eat at the MAP café.

To Puno—We were driven 6 hours to Puno in a van. The drive is pretty and there are some interesting sites along the way. The roads are good enough for you to drive yourself but I think that you’d be crazy since signs are not that clear and driving habits are less predictable. Wandered Puno for shopping since we were told that things were cheaper in Puno. Alpaca is definitely cheaper in Puno as compared to Cusco but the selection is scant. Stayed at the Casa Andina Private Reserve. The front desk didn’t know that the rooms are adjoining, then said that they didn’t have any keys since the manager left. Despite the hiccup, the most modern rooms that we stayed in.They also have their own dock from which to take excursions out to Lake Titicacca.

Lake Titicacca—I wondered before our trip that given our time restraints, should we visit the Uros Islands? Well, the Uros Islands are not that impressive since they are smaller than you would expect and you don’t get the visual sense that they are actually islands because they seemed to be docked. There are 30 of them organized in a circle, almost to accommodate the visiting boats which are allocated an island on a rotating basis. It doesn’t feel like an authentic experience. It was nice to visit but if you are very tight on time, I’m afraid you might be underwhelmed if you go much out of your way to see it. We also went to Taquile Island (2.5 hrs from Uros) which offers a pretty hike and a wonderful view of the Lake. There otherwise isn’t much there although we had a great lunch of trout and quinoa soup there.A good place for simple calmness.

Lima—Since we had a 10 hour layover at Lima airport, we put our luggage into the 24 hour lock service, and hire a taxi/guide for $18/hr to drive us around Lima. Central Lima is a polluted, crowed mess. Worthwhile to see but not worthwhile to linger. Miraflores is nice, especially along the water near the very Americanized Larcomar mall (Hooters, Starbucks, Tony Romas etc). We then had dinner at the Nautica Rose. Even 6 hrs is probably enough time to explore Lima and head back to the airport.

We used David Choque ([email protected]) as many have on this post as a guide in Cusco and as a travel agent. He speaks English well and likes people. He is a great guide but not quite as good as a travel agent but is very helpful. Not a bargain but good if you dislike going with a group. For Western tastes, you may do better to choose your own hotels.

4everywhere

Hello G2T!

I just posted a question, only to open the forum back up and find your report. And you answered some of the questions, especially regarding Lake Titcaca, and even overnighting in the airport! Thanks for the insights, and I hope to read more posts from you.

I still think we'll try to get some rest that first night and take perhaps a 9 am flight Sat am to Cusco. Also, it looks like there's no need to really bust behiney to get back to Lima for our Red Eye flight back to the states -- an afternoon there sounds enough for this first trip.

So, what would you add or change with the following:
Friday Night: Hotel near airport....
Saturday: Fly to Cusco, drive or be driven to Ollanta, for 3 nights there, hopefully visiting Pisac on Sunday.
Sunday: Day in SV, Night in Ollanta
Monday: Day in SV, Night in Ollanta
Tuesday: AM train to MP, Night in MP (Aguas Caliente)
Wednesday: Night in MP or Night in Cusco?
Thursday: Early train MP to Cusco, Night in Cusco
Friday: Day in Cusco, Night in Cusco
Sat: Night in Cusco,
Sunday: Cusco to Lima for Late Late PM flight out of Lima

Thanks for any help!

G2T

Hi 4everywhere,

The Ramada is immediately next to the airport and might be a good choice for sleeping. I heard it is a bit expensive though.

Perhaps the grass is greener but since I took the AM train to Aguas Caliente, I thought it would have been better to take a PM train to Aguas Caliente and get to MP early in the morning before all the people from Cusco arrive. Try to sit on the left hand side on the way to Aguas (the view side).

Otherwise, your itinerary sounds good.

Happy travels!

chacheetah

Hi G2T, We will be staying in Sacred Valley in lieu of Cusco from all the recommendations on this board. While there, how did you get around. Did your hotel provide a guide or did you lock into one prior to arrival. How did you get to Cusco. Is it easy to get taxis?
Also,is it easy to get around if staying in Urumbama (Soly luna) and want to walk around Ollante.
Did you use the services from Sol y luna and if so would you recommend them. We thought about the horse riding for at least half a day. Did you see them - good condition? Any thing you can advise in that area would be so helpful.
Sorry for ALL the ??? but I am a worrier! Thx CC

althom1122

G2T - thanks for the report! Enjoyed reading about your experiences.

chacheetah - I responded to your other post with some thoughts, but will chime in here, too. For transferring to Cusco, if you're arriving back to Ollanta via the Agua Caliente train, there are many taxi drivers there at the train station hoping to get your business. Our guide was waiting to pick us up, but before we saw him, we were asked by at least three taxi drivers if we wanted a taxi to Cusco. Within the towns, the little motorcycle taxis are easy to find anytime/anhwhere.