oops, didn't mean to suggest we would skip Prague entirely, just that we could shift our dates to be in Prague after the festivals were over (early/mid June instead of late May/early June).

But it sounds like you're saying it won't make much difference crowd-wise?

annhig, thanks for the trip report - I'm really enjoying your writing! (not quite finished going through it with a highlighter!)

We were in Prague in August 2009 and although it was crowded, it was not as bad as I expected. Charles Bridge & Old town will always be crowded, except perhaps in the dead of winter. I would still go in May, during the festivals, and I would return in August again if that was the only time I could go.

You will love Cesky Krumlov. We spent 2 nights there. You can click on my name to read my trip report from Aug 2009. I give names of restaurants, etc. which might be helpful.

Thanks so much for all your help on our itinerary! Our trip is fast approaching, and I *think* we have everything lined up - anyone have any late-breaking tips or recommendations besides what's already on these boards? I've scoured them for restaurant and attraction reviews; thanks so much for all your valuable advice!

We have purchased tickets for the Vienna opera and Salzburg marionnette theatre; is there anything else we should reserve in advance (Mozart dinner theatre, train from MUC-Salzbg on day we arrive from US)? We're still debating whether to rent a car to explore the Salzkammergut or just rely on buses and trains.

Thanks again for all your help! I owe y'all a trip report when we get back

If relying on trains for five longish trips by rail as in Original Post then by all means consider the European east Railpass, valid in all the countries you are going to (except the short foray over the German border to Berchestgaden - a few euro S-Bahn ticket) - a 5-day pass costs in first class $314 and $216 per day p.p. or about $63 or 49 euros about in first class per day and 30 euros in second class - and this is for hop on any train anytime in all those countries - complete flexibility - if you just buy tickets as you go along for those 5 longish rides you may well pay much much more - but that pass does have to be bought before arriving in Europe as ain't TMK sold there as Europeans cannot use them. Your other days all are short train and or bus trips that cost very little and passes are not valid on say the Salzkammergut buses.
Pass prices are from:
http://www.budgeteuropetravel.com/id6.html

We ended up having to drop Budapest (boo!) to fit time constraints, so we've only got 2 substantial train rides: MUC-Salzburg when we first arrive, then Salzburg-Vienna after 5 days bus/training around the Salzkammergut. We'll spend 5 days in Vienna, then go to Cesky Krumlov for one night (probably using Lobo or CK shuttle), then on to Prague for our last 5 nights (Student Agency bus or combo bus/train from Cesky Budejovice).

So I think the best we can do is get a Bayern ticket for the MUC-Salzburg leg, and buy point-to-point the rest of the way, right?