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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London

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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London

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Old Dec 10th, 2023 | 08:37 PM
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Whirlwind birthday trip - 4 days in London

Got home a week ago tonight after a really quick trip to London. Left home mid-day Tuesday, landed at LHR mid-day Wed. and flew back out mid-day Sunday. Had the best time for three days - one day . . . not so much But the good days were really really good.

Was going to be pretty much running full speed Thurs/Fri/Sat with 15 or 16 planned and/or pre-booked events -- but what the hey -- I can always sleep when I'm home The main highlights were to be in no particular order: Staying at The Savoy; Ian McKellen and Roger Allam (of Endeavor and Game of Thrones fame) in Frank & Percy; the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto and Diva exhibitions at the V&A; Dinner in the River Restaurant by Gordon Ramsay; Frans Hals at the National Gallery; Hockney - Drawing from Life at the National Portrait Gallery; Dinner in the Portrait Restaurant; a mini GTG in the American Bar; Operation Mincemeat - plus another play, a couple of other exhibitions and assorted meals and shopping.

It's sort of become a habit being in London for my birthday and when I read that Ian McKellen's very last stage performance* was to be on my actual birthday 2 Dec . . . well that sealed the deal. Actually booked the Frank & Percy ticket before flights, or hotel or anything else.

* The actual last LAST performance was supposed to be the Dec 3 Sunday matinee but Sat. night was the last evening performance. Then about 6 weeks ago the run was extended two weeks through Dec 17. But don't bet the farm -- I saw what was supposed to be his swan song, absolute last live performance, one man show back in Dec '19. I swear he's like the Rolling Stones --

It may take me 4 or 5 days to post the full TR . . . Longer than the trip itself . . . will have lots of photos of the Chanel exhibition once I resize them so they'll post.

Next: November 28-29. SMF > PHX > LHR, The Savoy, totally unexpected/wonderful surprise from a Fodorite, mini GTG


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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 12:20 AM
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Ooo the Savoy. My dream. I really thought about it for Jan when it is cheapest (but still about $700 a night) but going to Budapest in Feb instead. Maybe in 2035. Love London but better get to other places I haven’t been can’t wait for your report
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 12:56 AM
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on for the ride
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 08:22 AM
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Count me in! 🎂🎂🎂🛫
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 08:29 AM
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That sounds like a wonderful birthday trip. I think you also live in Calif so I’m in awe of your ability to do that with a quick turnaround. Our last trip in May was hard going and coming back!

I love London and sounds like you did all the kinds of things I love about it- plays, museums and the V&A (and great restaurants).
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 08:56 AM
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I'm exhausted just reading the thread title. The thought of such a sort trip makes me wince. I just don't have the energy, but I look forward to reading how you coped.
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 09:23 AM
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janisj,
You really, really, really know how to celebrate a birthday in grand style! I eagerly look forward to hear the rest!
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 09:44 AM
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I've been waiting for this since, I knew you were going in November. You have a lot more energy than I have, but really looking forward to this!
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 10:47 AM
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Thanks everyone. Flying from the West Coast transatlantic can be really tough but flying in the pointy end of the plane does help a bit. I actually arrive pretty much jet lag-free

November 28-29. SMF > PHX > LHR, The Savoy, totally unexpected/wonderful surprise from a Fodorite, mini GTG

Once again I used AAVacations to save a boat load of $$$/£££ and make the Savoy doable. The hotel was on my Bucket List for years and I was able to stay there in Dec '21. (TR here: Splurge Birthday in London ). So while no longer on the 'bucket list', that visit was just as the UK was reopening mid-covid and it really wasn't the full 'Savoy experience' -- neither the American Bar or the River Restaurant were open, plus there was lots of testing/re-testing/travel rule changes happening daily. So after booking Frank & Percy I set about looking for flights/hotel. Airfares were bloody ASTRONOMICAL - even in Coach. Even being a bit flexible with actual travel dates a few dats either of Sat Dec 2 - Premium Economy was running not far short of $3000 and Business was off the charts!!!! And for a decent schedule with no 0'dark-thirty flights and/or 2 stops --- way way off the charts - like close to $9000.. But using AAVactions I was able to book Business flights Nov 28 / Dec 3 with very good schedules plus three nights at the Savoy for $4736 total. Of that I paid 150,000 miles and only $2647 real money out of pocket. (I didn't use all miles because I still need to earn some loyalty points to maintain platinum status for next year) Since for my nights the 'basic' Superior Queen I booked was running about £695 ($875) a night this would have been a huge bargain even if paying all cash.

And instead of a 0600 flight out of SMF with two changes and early AM arrival at LHR - I got 1:00 PM out of SMF to PHX, 3 hours on the ground and a 12:10 arrival at LHR. My return flights on the 3rd were 1:30 out of LHR, 5PM arrival at LAX, 3 hours on the ground and 9:15PM arrival back at SMF. All totally civilized times and connections.

Flights were great and arrived a few minutes early. With no checked luggage and the E-gates actually working I was through into the Arrivals hall less than 15 minutes after the door of the plane opened. Went to the AA Arrival Lounge in T-3 took a quick shower and had tea/OJ/a couple of Pastries. Topped up my OysterCard (had about £7 balance from my last trip in May so only added £10) and took the Piccadilly Line to Hammersmith, changed to the District Line to Embankment and from there its about a 5 minute walk to the hotel. My room was close to ready so I left my bag with the Bell Captain and went into the residents Reading room for a few minutes. Only about 10 minutes later they took me up to the upgraded Deluxe King (!) - no river view but a really lovely room. 10 minutes lated my bag arrived . . . and 10 minutes after that my doorbell rang and there was a staffer delivering a beautiful poinsettia and birthday card . . . no, not from the hotel - from a fellow Fodorite who had checked out that very morning. I had exchanged a few PM's with them with some suggestions for their time in London. So this was a combo B'day and thank you gesture. It was a HUGE surprise and so thoughtfull. Really cheered up my room and got me in the Christmas spirit.

Had a mini GTG set for 5:30 in the American Bar -- kmowatt and mrs kmowatt were in London before leaving for Vienna for a few days and the 29th was the only day that we overlapped. I feared maybe a little of jet lag but not a bit of it. In the end, mrs kmowatt had plans with her father so it was just the two of us. Had champagne/wine/cocktails/nibbles and a lovely chat. After kmowatt left I went up t my room to figure out what/if I wanted dinner. Ended up walking through Covent Garden, watching a few of the buskers, got some roasted chestnuts and mulled wine - then went back to the hotel and ordered a small pizza for a late-ish Dinner. No jet lag and slept like a baby.

A few photos to follow

Next: Thurs Nov. 30 -- Tate Britain, a new Roman Wall museum and Operation Mincemeat.
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 11:02 AM
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On board PHX > LHR



Starter - paprika lemon chicken/hummus/shaved asparagus + salad with sundried tomatoes and feta


Miso seabass, mash, savoy cabbage, baby carrots Tasted a lot better than it looked



Totally full from the evening before so just had the fruit plate breakfast



Very similar to my room in '21 except this has brocaded walls







Bathroom seems identical to '21



What a lovely surprise!
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 11:17 AM
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Belated Happy Birthday. The card and poinsettia was such a nice gesture.
Love Roger Allam!
I always enjoy your trip reports and look forward to reading more.
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 11:53 AM
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Janis does it right! Looking forward to following
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 02:20 PM
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Great to see you again Janis and the American Bar was a fun venue!!
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Old Dec 11th, 2023 | 02:31 PM
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(sigh!) What a pro you are! Someday, I'll splurge on the Savoy or Brown's. But I think I'll need to rent-the-runway to go along with my stay.
Along for the ride! Always enjoy your posts.
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Old Dec 12th, 2023 | 03:30 PM
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Thurs Nov. 30 -- Tate Britain, a new Roman Wall museum and Operation Mincemeat.

In my room are a kettle, tea/coffee plus a complimentary fridge with milk, OJ, still and sparkling water, soft drinks - no food but anything one might want to drink. So this morning breakfast was the last 3 slices of room service pizza, orange juice and tea - and a mighty fine b'fast it was. Took a long relaxing bubble bath and really had no hint of jet lag.

Took the tube over to Pimlico and for Tate Britain - mainly for the general displays . Mostly for the Turners and my regular visit with Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose, but maybe also Women in Revolt! Art and Activism in the UK 1970-1990. After exploring several of the galleries, made my way down to the Women in Revolt (being a member I didn't have to book - which also means I don't have any guilt for not sticking it out ) The exhibit is truly enormous and I went through the first few rooms - not sure why but it just wasn't resonating with me. Reviews in the Guardian were ecstatic but in some other outlets - not so much There were some really thought provoking and humorous objects but also a lot of really weird 'stuff'. I do think it would have been a better fit at Tate Modern. My guess is I saw maybe 30+% of the full exhibit and that alone took close to an hour. I honestly don't think one could take it all in with just one visit. I bailed and headed up to the Members Room for lunch and deciding if I wanted to hit Women in Revolt again. Had a yummy carrot and coriander soup, a turkey/brie sandwich, tea and Prosecco.

Decided I'd had enough of angry women so headed back to Victoria to catch the Circle Line to Aldgate. I'd pre-booked a 2PM ticket for the new Roman City Wall museum. Tickets are free but the website insists pre-booking is essential . . . trust me it ain't. I was the only person in the gallery and the woman at the entrance desk said not to worry - its about the least busy museum in the city. The entrance is maybe a 2 minute walk from Aldgate station so very easy to fit in if visiting the Tower of London or anything else in the general area. Very substantial piece of the Wall and easy to see the construction methods. There is also a video explaining the development of the Roman city, abandonment then growth in medieval times, and re-discovery of the wall. https://citywallvinestreet.org

Got back on the tube for 'home' - wasn't hungry but had to eat something since dinner was going to be pretty late. Popped into Gordon's Wine Bar just up the road from Embankment station. Had pork and duck pate, bread, olives and a red wine - just about perfect for the time of day.

Went back to the room really just to relax a bit and change shoes - both pairs of shoes were really comfortable but I like to switch between then during the day to ensure I don't get any pressure points / issues. Then out for Covent Garden and Operation Mincemeat at the Fortune theatre. I have a (weird) friend who's only request was I bring him London postcards. Ya know -- postcards really aren't a thing anymore. Wandered through all the stalls in both markets and the only postcards were silly, ugly or practically lewd. Finally found some decent ones in the main market just as the owner was starting to pack up her stall - found five quite nice cards and we chatted a bit -- either she took a shine to me or maybe I looked down at the heels but she put them in a bag and said "on me - no charge". I insisted on paying but she wouldn't hear of it.

Walked the short distance to the theatre, collected my pre-paid prosecco and went up to my front row, dress circe seat. Must have been 15 years since I was in the Fortune and I forgot how cramped it is - luckily I am really short so the total lack of leg room isn't and issue but for everyone else - I can imagine total misery. The Play however was absolutely brilliant. Five cast members play eight major gender swapping characters and various and sundry minor bits. It is simply hysterical and the vocal and dance numbers are wonderful. Laughed til it hurt then a poignant epilog at the end honoring Glyndwr Michael, the homeless 'man that never was' had me in tears.

Strolled back to the hotel and 'grazed' a late supper in the Beaufort Bar - olives, grilled prawns, a cheese board and a French Wings (vodka, champagne and aperitif de normandie)

Up to my room and another wonderful night's sleep.

Next: Fri. Dec 1. Hours at the V&A ( Chanel, Diva, lunch and more), Peter Pan Goes Wrong, and the River Restaurant
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Old Dec 12th, 2023 | 03:36 PM
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Some photos of the City Wall:























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Old Dec 12th, 2023 | 10:50 PM
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Happy Birthday
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Old Dec 13th, 2023 | 07:33 AM
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. . . (those guys look sooo young - but it was almost 45 years ago!)
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Old Dec 13th, 2023 | 09:10 AM
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Glad you liked Op Mincemeat as much as I did. It was outstanding! I agree about the ending and also when Miss Leggett sang her song too…the audience went very quiet there!! Looking forward to hearing what you thought about Chanel!
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Old Dec 13th, 2023 | 09:38 AM
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I am looking forward to what you thought of Chanel also. I saw the Dior exhibit there in 2019 I think it was and it was much better. The Chanel exhibit had some beautiful clothes,my favourite was the room with all the suits, but whoever did the lighting for the exhibit should get the sack and what was with the pokey sort of boxes for rooms they had at the beginning where it got very crowded and the lighting was so bad you couldnt really see properly.
Not well executed.
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