When to visit the Dolomites?
Nov 13th, 2024 | 12:08 PM
#1
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When to visit the Dolomites?
I always read trip reports and questions about the Dolomites, including Mel's recent report Trip Report Traversing Tyrol - Fodor's Travel Talk Forums which is fantastic. Rather than hijack her thread, I thought I'd ask separately.
It looks like a very beautiful area and I've long wanted to visit but the opportunity has not yet arisen. I ask this out of complete ignorance, having never visited but wanting to if we can get back to Europe in the next year or two. We'd like to do a fair amount of easy hiking (10-20km depending on elevation) and prefer to walk in the cooler weather. Is there much walking on forest trails or is it primarily on unshaded tracks due to the rocky terrain? Are there lots of valley hikes as well as mountain hikes? When is the best time of year for autumn foliage? If we go in spring, how early in the season is it reasonable to visit? I know that the cable cars, etc, only run at certain times of the year but fear it would be too hot in the summer. Is May okay? We'd likely also visit Val Venosta and perhaps edge over into neighbouring Swiss Engadine.
Our holidays this year and last were primarily about hiking and we absolutely loved it. I'd like to plan something and then when the opportunity arises, we can just buy our tickets and head off, knowing that we have a rough plan in mind. Any and all information would be really appreciated.
It looks like a very beautiful area and I've long wanted to visit but the opportunity has not yet arisen. I ask this out of complete ignorance, having never visited but wanting to if we can get back to Europe in the next year or two. We'd like to do a fair amount of easy hiking (10-20km depending on elevation) and prefer to walk in the cooler weather. Is there much walking on forest trails or is it primarily on unshaded tracks due to the rocky terrain? Are there lots of valley hikes as well as mountain hikes? When is the best time of year for autumn foliage? If we go in spring, how early in the season is it reasonable to visit? I know that the cable cars, etc, only run at certain times of the year but fear it would be too hot in the summer. Is May okay? We'd likely also visit Val Venosta and perhaps edge over into neighbouring Swiss Engadine.
Our holidays this year and last were primarily about hiking and we absolutely loved it. I'd like to plan something and then when the opportunity arises, we can just buy our tickets and head off, knowing that we have a rough plan in mind. Any and all information would be really appreciated.
Nov 13th, 2024 | 01:16 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,261
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dreamon, I have limited experience but I tend to think September is cooling down and quietening down.
I mostly go in June due to work, and I do love the spring meadow flowers, but it’s often been quite hot already.
And in contrast, this year in mid June, when in Switzerland, there was a lot of rain, hardly saw the sun.
Autumnal foliage coincides with bleaker, colder weather in Oct/ Nov, and closures/ restricted services, so I guess there’s the drawbacks of that timing.
I tend to check the bus connections and cablecar openings for the season before I make decisions. So this year, taking the Postbus in Meiringen was a “must do” for me, so I checked start dates (although with lots of late snow there were postponements of some high gondola station openings) and worked my itinerary back from there.
I never (intentionally) do scary, high trails, with lots of ascent/ descent.
I’ve not run out of lovely forested walks, or valleys, or short walks from high gondola stations just for the views.
Staying in a larger town, with permanent residents gives you more transport options often, and stores not so affected by seasonal closures.
In the Dolomites, we first stayed in the val Gardena, in Ortisei. Very popular with international tourists, lots of restaurants, great hiking, lots of cablecars, good bus connections between towns. That was a family trip, took our boys then. Secede, Campinoi, Sassalongo, I think were some of the cablecars we took.
San Candido in the val Pusteria was a lovely base, a good sized town, lots of hotels, restaurants, on a train line and great bus service. I was there with my mother for a late September trip. Gorgeous weather, fresh and cool. Nearby Brunico is a nice town, and the villages nearby also very charming. Lots of lakes and forests, and amazing peaks once you bus into the narrower valleys.
Corvara, in val Badia was our last base, and as Mel describes, these are towns on the valley roads through the mountains, so quite busy, but good bus connections in season (hourly, I think).
You mention the Engadine, we based in Scuol once, fantastic location and easily filled a week going through and around the valleys by bus. I did the full loop one time (when it was over 30C) by bus, around to Mustair and Glorenza, that was a great day too.
And I do love the Upper Engadine, the bus to Chiavenna, train to Poschiavo, the many gondolas, so many forest walks, and lovely lakes.
Bressanone is a nice small city, for a more bustling urban vibe if changing bases between Italy and Switzerland. We have taken train up and down that long valley, lovely Trento, Bolzano, Vipiteno, Chiusa.
I am not a serious hiker, so my 2 cents is more about choosing a base and then using the local walking maps to select your daily trails.
I mostly go in June due to work, and I do love the spring meadow flowers, but it’s often been quite hot already.
And in contrast, this year in mid June, when in Switzerland, there was a lot of rain, hardly saw the sun.
Autumnal foliage coincides with bleaker, colder weather in Oct/ Nov, and closures/ restricted services, so I guess there’s the drawbacks of that timing.
I tend to check the bus connections and cablecar openings for the season before I make decisions. So this year, taking the Postbus in Meiringen was a “must do” for me, so I checked start dates (although with lots of late snow there were postponements of some high gondola station openings) and worked my itinerary back from there.
I never (intentionally) do scary, high trails, with lots of ascent/ descent.
I’ve not run out of lovely forested walks, or valleys, or short walks from high gondola stations just for the views.
Staying in a larger town, with permanent residents gives you more transport options often, and stores not so affected by seasonal closures.
In the Dolomites, we first stayed in the val Gardena, in Ortisei. Very popular with international tourists, lots of restaurants, great hiking, lots of cablecars, good bus connections between towns. That was a family trip, took our boys then. Secede, Campinoi, Sassalongo, I think were some of the cablecars we took.
San Candido in the val Pusteria was a lovely base, a good sized town, lots of hotels, restaurants, on a train line and great bus service. I was there with my mother for a late September trip. Gorgeous weather, fresh and cool. Nearby Brunico is a nice town, and the villages nearby also very charming. Lots of lakes and forests, and amazing peaks once you bus into the narrower valleys.
Corvara, in val Badia was our last base, and as Mel describes, these are towns on the valley roads through the mountains, so quite busy, but good bus connections in season (hourly, I think).
You mention the Engadine, we based in Scuol once, fantastic location and easily filled a week going through and around the valleys by bus. I did the full loop one time (when it was over 30C) by bus, around to Mustair and Glorenza, that was a great day too.
And I do love the Upper Engadine, the bus to Chiavenna, train to Poschiavo, the many gondolas, so many forest walks, and lovely lakes.
Bressanone is a nice small city, for a more bustling urban vibe if changing bases between Italy and Switzerland. We have taken train up and down that long valley, lovely Trento, Bolzano, Vipiteno, Chiusa.
I am not a serious hiker, so my 2 cents is more about choosing a base and then using the local walking maps to select your daily trails.
Nov 13th, 2024 | 03:04 PM
#3
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 475
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We have visited the Dolomites region a few times and the response from Adelaidean is very helpful.
Our visits have been in June, July, and September, with a short time in early October.
We have stayed in Ortisei,Vipiteno, Brunico and Bressanone.
Our June and July visits were in warm and sunny weather, but this needs to be put into the context of someone who grew up in hot Western Australia.
We were not particularly bothered by the heat and as this first time was about 10 years ago we were still young enough to walk longer and higher!
Last year we visited in September and had a lot of very warm and sunny days, but this year in September for our visit, it was very much cooler and some of the areas had fresh snow, that limited our walking a little. (We are getting older and more careful.)
We consider ourselves walkers rather than serious hikers, and usually regard about 15km a day on trails as manageable.
I do recall a few spectacular storms during our July visit, but they were brief if dramatic.
Although there was a lot of press about flooding and heavy rain in September and early October this year, we were fortunate to miss most of it.
We love this region, hope to return and continue walking as we get older.
We are more casual in our approach to planning these days, but that is because we have been privileged to visit the area more than once.
Happy planning!
Our visits have been in June, July, and September, with a short time in early October.
We have stayed in Ortisei,Vipiteno, Brunico and Bressanone.
Our June and July visits were in warm and sunny weather, but this needs to be put into the context of someone who grew up in hot Western Australia.
We were not particularly bothered by the heat and as this first time was about 10 years ago we were still young enough to walk longer and higher!
Last year we visited in September and had a lot of very warm and sunny days, but this year in September for our visit, it was very much cooler and some of the areas had fresh snow, that limited our walking a little. (We are getting older and more careful.)
We consider ourselves walkers rather than serious hikers, and usually regard about 15km a day on trails as manageable.
I do recall a few spectacular storms during our July visit, but they were brief if dramatic.
Although there was a lot of press about flooding and heavy rain in September and early October this year, we were fortunate to miss most of it.
We love this region, hope to return and continue walking as we get older.
We are more casual in our approach to planning these days, but that is because we have been privileged to visit the area more than once.
Happy planning!
Nov 13th, 2024 | 03:04 PM
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
Well, my experience in the Dolomites is limited to a winter trip and an autumn trip. Loved the winter trip, so returned in autumn with hopes of more hiking. No shortage of autumn color, from last week of Sept, but some areas have no trees, so keep that in mind. Trees are abundant at lower elevation, and while there are many easier hikes, we did learn that many hikes just go up and up, and didn't appeal to our rapidly aging knees. We also prefer trees, so there you go.
From what I've read (no firsthand experience) May in the Dolomites is pretty iffy, as a lot of snow at high elevations. They have a short season, which seems to kick off in mid-June and runs through Sept.
We used to be all weather hikers, but no longer fans of hiking in the rain, so autumn can slow one down. And, as you've read, just because cable cars are open doesn't mean other businesses are. No issues with open businesses in winter, but hiking curtailed for obvious reasons.
I'd still take the closures and iffy weather over the crowds and heat, hands down. What I didn't expect, was the humidity at lower elevations. I'm a Colorado girl, where it's dry, dry, dry. Add some humidity and things get much hotter, or much colder depending on the season.
Love the Engadine in autumn - the larches are turning and it's spectacular. Would never, ever turn down an autumn visit to the Engadine. Cable cars close around third week of October, but a wonderful time to visit, despite what cable cars might or might not be operating. Plentiful hikes for all abilities. Autumn color really takes off from early October.
I have lots of autumn Engadine trip reports posted here on Fodor's if interested.
From what I've read (no firsthand experience) May in the Dolomites is pretty iffy, as a lot of snow at high elevations. They have a short season, which seems to kick off in mid-June and runs through Sept.
We used to be all weather hikers, but no longer fans of hiking in the rain, so autumn can slow one down. And, as you've read, just because cable cars are open doesn't mean other businesses are. No issues with open businesses in winter, but hiking curtailed for obvious reasons.
I'd still take the closures and iffy weather over the crowds and heat, hands down. What I didn't expect, was the humidity at lower elevations. I'm a Colorado girl, where it's dry, dry, dry. Add some humidity and things get much hotter, or much colder depending on the season.
Love the Engadine in autumn - the larches are turning and it's spectacular. Would never, ever turn down an autumn visit to the Engadine. Cable cars close around third week of October, but a wonderful time to visit, despite what cable cars might or might not be operating. Plentiful hikes for all abilities. Autumn color really takes off from early October.
I have lots of autumn Engadine trip reports posted here on Fodor's if interested.
Nov 13th, 2024 | 04:15 PM
#5
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,261
Likes: 19
Mel, good point about the humidity, it was hot and humid in June. Ugh.
But then it rains, and you get this crisp, clear day, gorgeous.
And…the Engadine in autumn, my DH always showing me the photos online of the snow capped peaks, and the golden larches, and then his most favourite…winter photos.
He really wants to go in another season. (And Christmas markets - I dare not show him your reports on those)
hi love_travel, I was wondering how your trip went. Glad you missed the wild weather events.
But then it rains, and you get this crisp, clear day, gorgeous.
And…the Engadine in autumn, my DH always showing me the photos online of the snow capped peaks, and the golden larches, and then his most favourite…winter photos.
He really wants to go in another season. (And Christmas markets - I dare not show him your reports on those)
hi love_travel, I was wondering how your trip went. Glad you missed the wild weather events.
Nov 13th, 2024 | 04:20 PM
#6
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 475
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Ah yes - we did notice a little humidity - but cleared after rain.
Excellent trip thanks Adelaidean, although a little interrupted for our last week after young family member (living overseas) had serious medical emergency. Being sorted now.
Planning to try and write a report but been a bit distracted.
Looks like the Engadine has to be added to the list.
Excellent trip thanks Adelaidean, although a little interrupted for our last week after young family member (living overseas) had serious medical emergency. Being sorted now.
Planning to try and write a report but been a bit distracted.
Looks like the Engadine has to be added to the list.
Nov 13th, 2024 | 06:36 PM
#7
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Thanks so much for everyone's valuable advice. I wouldn't describe myself as a serious hiker either, slow and persistent is more my pace, and I can do distance over height. I hate doing rock clambering - or anything which involves me being on all fours.
I adore the spring wildflowers so that's typically my preference for visiting but autumn might suit better with things at home and we were once in the Bernese Oberland in October and the autumn leaves were beautiful. Your talk of humidity reminds me of the last time I was in Switzerland - our time in Lucerne (first week of June) was so humid it was much worse than south-east Asia until a spectacular thunderstorm came through and cleared the air. We love the warm weather as long as we're not active but for hiking 10-20C is great.
I'm glad to hear that there are walks through the forests as that's always our preference, as much as I like the views from the mountain tops.
I once visited Soglio and Val Bregalia for a few days with a friend and I'd love to take my husband there to show him what I've been talking about. Scuol also sounds amazing.
I've read that the cable cars, etc, have a short season so that needs to be weighed up with weather, things being open etc. Thank you everyone.
Adelaidean, I've only been to Europe once in the winter (late Nov to early Jan) and it was with my daughter. We had a fabulous time and I recommend it. Coming from Australia, it's just so different to anything I've experienced here.
I adore the spring wildflowers so that's typically my preference for visiting but autumn might suit better with things at home and we were once in the Bernese Oberland in October and the autumn leaves were beautiful. Your talk of humidity reminds me of the last time I was in Switzerland - our time in Lucerne (first week of June) was so humid it was much worse than south-east Asia until a spectacular thunderstorm came through and cleared the air. We love the warm weather as long as we're not active but for hiking 10-20C is great.
I'm glad to hear that there are walks through the forests as that's always our preference, as much as I like the views from the mountain tops.
I once visited Soglio and Val Bregalia for a few days with a friend and I'd love to take my husband there to show him what I've been talking about. Scuol also sounds amazing.
I've read that the cable cars, etc, have a short season so that needs to be weighed up with weather, things being open etc. Thank you everyone.
Adelaidean, I've only been to Europe once in the winter (late Nov to early Jan) and it was with my daughter. We had a fabulous time and I recommend it. Coming from Australia, it's just so different to anything I've experienced here.
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Nov 14th, 2024 | 02:01 AM
#8
Joined: Mar 2013
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In addition to the posts above:
The weather is alway unpredictable in the Alps. July, August and October are usually rather dry. June is often - but not always ond not in all areas - rather wet.
The hiking trail network in ther area is endless (more than thousand kms of well signmarkedd trails). There may remain snow above 2000 metres until mid June.
The higher you go, the cooler it will be.
If ou don't like temperatures of 35 degrees centigrade (possible at Bolzano/Bozen or Trento in July and August), just take buses and gondolas up to 2000 metres and you will be fine.
The Dolomites spread over the Italian provinces of Bolzano/Bozen, Trento and Belluno.
The province of Bolzano/Bozen is visited by tourists from all over the world (mostly Germans), whereas the others are more "Italian".
Bolzano/Bozen has the best public transport system. There, touristic bus lines and gondolas begin to run earlier in the year than in the more "Italian" areas where everything is concentrated on July and August.
You will find in the next post the 2024 closing times of all gondolas in the Alps running in late automn.
Timetable of all trains and buses running in the Province of Bolzano/Bozen (will get updated soon): https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/m...ney/timetables
The weather is alway unpredictable in the Alps. July, August and October are usually rather dry. June is often - but not always ond not in all areas - rather wet.
The hiking trail network in ther area is endless (more than thousand kms of well signmarkedd trails). There may remain snow above 2000 metres until mid June.
The higher you go, the cooler it will be.
If ou don't like temperatures of 35 degrees centigrade (possible at Bolzano/Bozen or Trento in July and August), just take buses and gondolas up to 2000 metres and you will be fine.
The Dolomites spread over the Italian provinces of Bolzano/Bozen, Trento and Belluno.
The province of Bolzano/Bozen is visited by tourists from all over the world (mostly Germans), whereas the others are more "Italian".
Bolzano/Bozen has the best public transport system. There, touristic bus lines and gondolas begin to run earlier in the year than in the more "Italian" areas where everything is concentrated on July and August.
You will find in the next post the 2024 closing times of all gondolas in the Alps running in late automn.
Timetable of all trains and buses running in the Province of Bolzano/Bozen (will get updated soon): https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/m...ney/timetables
Nov 14th, 2024 | 02:09 AM
#9
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 9,503
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GONDOLA TIMETABLE AUTOMN 2024
Chamonix - Flegere: until Nov 3rdChamonix - Aiguille du Midi: until Nov 3rd
Chamonix - Montenvers/Mer de Glace (train): until Oct 31st
Montana - Arnouva - Cry d'Er: until Oct 27th
Leukerbad - Rinderhuette: until Nov 3rd
Albinen - Rinderhuette: until Nov 3rd
St-Luc - Tignousa: until Nov 5th
Vercorin - Cret du Midi: until Oct 27th
Wiler - Lauchernalp: unti Nov 3rd
Zermatt - Sunnegga: until Oct 31st
Zermatt - Matterhorn Glacier Paradise: open all the year round
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise - Breuil/Cervinia (Italy): open from Oct 26th until May 5th 2025
Zermatt - Gornergrat (railway): until Nov 1st and from Nov 8th until Nov 2025
Saas Fee Mittelallalin revolving Glacier restaurant: until April 27th 2025
Blatten Belalp (Aletsch Glacier), until Oct 27th, then only 3times daily on weekdays
Brig Simplon Pass (bus) : all the year lound
Moerel Riederalp: all the year round
Moerel Bettmeralp: all the year round
Fiesch Fiescheralp: all the year round
Andermatt Oberalp Pass (railway) : all the year round
Punt Muragl Muottas Muragl : until Oct 27th
Pontresina Alp Languard : until Oct 27th
Pontresina Bernina Pass (railway) : all the year round
Davos Schatzalp : until Oct 27th
Scuol Motta Naluns : until Nov 3rd
Ortisei Seceda : until Nov 3rd
Santa Cristina Col Raiser : until Nov 3rd
Ortisei Alpe Siusi : until Nov 3rd
Bruneck Kronplatz : until Nov 10th
Engelberg Titlis ; until Nov 3rd
Grindelwald First : until Oct. 27th
Grindelwald Kleine Scheidegg (railway). All the year round
Lauterbrunnen Wengen Kleine Scheidegg : all the year round
Chamonix - Flegere: until Nov 3rdChamonix - Aiguille du Midi: until Nov 3rd
Chamonix - Montenvers/Mer de Glace (train): until Oct 31st
Montana - Arnouva - Cry d'Er: until Oct 27th
Leukerbad - Rinderhuette: until Nov 3rd
Albinen - Rinderhuette: until Nov 3rd
St-Luc - Tignousa: until Nov 5th
Vercorin - Cret du Midi: until Oct 27th
Wiler - Lauchernalp: unti Nov 3rd
Zermatt - Sunnegga: until Oct 31st
Zermatt - Matterhorn Glacier Paradise: open all the year round
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise - Breuil/Cervinia (Italy): open from Oct 26th until May 5th 2025
Zermatt - Gornergrat (railway): until Nov 1st and from Nov 8th until Nov 2025
Saas Fee Mittelallalin revolving Glacier restaurant: until April 27th 2025
Blatten Belalp (Aletsch Glacier), until Oct 27th, then only 3times daily on weekdays
Brig Simplon Pass (bus) : all the year lound
Moerel Riederalp: all the year round
Moerel Bettmeralp: all the year round
Fiesch Fiescheralp: all the year round
Andermatt Oberalp Pass (railway) : all the year round
Punt Muragl Muottas Muragl : until Oct 27th
Pontresina Alp Languard : until Oct 27th
Pontresina Bernina Pass (railway) : all the year round
Davos Schatzalp : until Oct 27th
Scuol Motta Naluns : until Nov 3rd
Ortisei Seceda : until Nov 3rd
Santa Cristina Col Raiser : until Nov 3rd
Ortisei Alpe Siusi : until Nov 3rd
Bruneck Kronplatz : until Nov 10th
Engelberg Titlis ; until Nov 3rd
Grindelwald First : until Oct. 27th
Grindelwald Kleine Scheidegg (railway). All the year round
Lauterbrunnen Wengen Kleine Scheidegg : all the year round
