We ate, we drank, we shopped - it snowed! A Paris trip report.
Jan 12th, 2004, 12:20 PM
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We ate, we drank, we shopped - it snowed! A Paris trip report.
Hi Everyone!
First of all, thanks as always for the wonderful tips and facts that I get from this forum. They make every trip more enjoyable.
So, here's a quick rundown on the trip. I'll try to be brief!
Arrived New Year's Eve day. Parishuttled into town and got settled at the Muguet. This was our first time at this hotel and we really enjoyed it. Quiet, clean, good location,and 97 Euros. Used to love the Tourville, but it has gotten too far out of our budget range, so the Muguet is a great alternative in the same neighborhood.
After lunch and a little shopping for room necessities (wine and a corkscrew!), we headed back to get ready for NYE.
Dinner was at 10:00 PM at L'Appart on the Rue du Colisee just off the CdeE. Though I mostly took pants for the trip, I did want to dress up a little for NYE. I can now tell you that it is hard to feel glamourous when you are wearing silk longjohns under your party dress - but oh well, at least I was warm!
Lovely meal, great wine, and streamers/noise makers for the midnight extravaganza. Left the restaurant about 12:20 AM and joined the masses on the CdeE. It was so festive. Everyone greeting each other and sharing holiday wishes.
New year's Day - SNOW! Being a California girl, I have rarely seen snow fall. In fact, this was only the 4th time in my life I've seen it snowing, so this is a biggie for me. And the fact that it was happening in my favorite place on earth made it all the better. It wasn't a blizzard or anything - just soft and steady. A lot of walking today, just to get totally immersed in Paris.
Dinner at Le Coupe Chou was cozy and delicious, and a walk back to the hotel made me less guilty about the three courses that I devoured.
More to come . . . .
First of all, thanks as always for the wonderful tips and facts that I get from this forum. They make every trip more enjoyable.
So, here's a quick rundown on the trip. I'll try to be brief!
Arrived New Year's Eve day. Parishuttled into town and got settled at the Muguet. This was our first time at this hotel and we really enjoyed it. Quiet, clean, good location,and 97 Euros. Used to love the Tourville, but it has gotten too far out of our budget range, so the Muguet is a great alternative in the same neighborhood.
After lunch and a little shopping for room necessities (wine and a corkscrew!), we headed back to get ready for NYE.
Dinner was at 10:00 PM at L'Appart on the Rue du Colisee just off the CdeE. Though I mostly took pants for the trip, I did want to dress up a little for NYE. I can now tell you that it is hard to feel glamourous when you are wearing silk longjohns under your party dress - but oh well, at least I was warm!
Lovely meal, great wine, and streamers/noise makers for the midnight extravaganza. Left the restaurant about 12:20 AM and joined the masses on the CdeE. It was so festive. Everyone greeting each other and sharing holiday wishes.
New year's Day - SNOW! Being a California girl, I have rarely seen snow fall. In fact, this was only the 4th time in my life I've seen it snowing, so this is a biggie for me. And the fact that it was happening in my favorite place on earth made it all the better. It wasn't a blizzard or anything - just soft and steady. A lot of walking today, just to get totally immersed in Paris.
Dinner at Le Coupe Chou was cozy and delicious, and a walk back to the hotel made me less guilty about the three courses that I devoured.
More to come . . . .
Jan 12th, 2004, 12:44 PM
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Friday - time to shop! Galleries Lafayette and BHV were our first stops. I go crazy in BHV - so many neat things. The kitchenware dept, and the fabric remnant box are two of my favorite stops here.
Over to the 14eme for lunch. Just off Boulevard Montparnasse is a street called the rue du Montparnasse. It is lined with creperies, and it is impossible to know which is best, so we returned to one we ate at last time - Port Manech. The Tartiflette crepe is huge - and really good!
This evening visited some friends who have an apartment in the 16eme. Makes me truly want to have an apartment of my own in Paris!
Saturday we went to the Musee Nissim Camondo. I highly recommend it. It is small and can be easily seen in about 1 1/2 hours. Though I love the Louvre and the D'Orsay, sometimes I just need a smaller museum experience and that's when we seek out places like this or the Jacquemart-Andre.
A huge lunch of oysters and flammenkuche (I think that is spelled right!), was follwed by a stop at Dehellerin for some new tart pans. This is another dangerous place for me, so I limit my time and escape before I do too much credit card damage.
Next . . . our day trip to London.
Over to the 14eme for lunch. Just off Boulevard Montparnasse is a street called the rue du Montparnasse. It is lined with creperies, and it is impossible to know which is best, so we returned to one we ate at last time - Port Manech. The Tartiflette crepe is huge - and really good!
This evening visited some friends who have an apartment in the 16eme. Makes me truly want to have an apartment of my own in Paris!
Saturday we went to the Musee Nissim Camondo. I highly recommend it. It is small and can be easily seen in about 1 1/2 hours. Though I love the Louvre and the D'Orsay, sometimes I just need a smaller museum experience and that's when we seek out places like this or the Jacquemart-Andre.
A huge lunch of oysters and flammenkuche (I think that is spelled right!), was follwed by a stop at Dehellerin for some new tart pans. This is another dangerous place for me, so I limit my time and escape before I do too much credit card damage.
Next . . . our day trip to London.
Jan 12th, 2004, 12:55 PM
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WELCOME BACK! It sounds like a great trip. We are beginning the formulation stages of a trip to Paris and the SOuth for next October. I still have the newspaper clipping about the Muget and your recommendation makes it all the more a possibility. When we spoke you said you loved Aix. Where did you or do you like to stay while there? The choices are dauting.
Jan 12th, 2004, 01:21 PM
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Hi Pam!
When we were in Aix in July, we stayed at the Grand Hotel Roi Rene at 24 Blvd. du Roi Rene. It is a more modern hotel, but it was a great location near the Cours Mirabeau. It was very nice, but nothing particularly French about it - seemed like maybe a business hotel kind of place - sort of Hyatt or Hilton-ish. A real plus point was that it had a pool, and since we were there during the start of the big heat wave, the pool was a greta relief at the end of a hot day.
Great bakery just behind the hotel. Our window opened onto the street of the bakery and the smells every AM were just too much - we were "forced" to eat many delectable treats from that place!
P.S. Came home with a tin of "Marco Polo" from Mariage Freres. You were right - it is delicious!
When we were in Aix in July, we stayed at the Grand Hotel Roi Rene at 24 Blvd. du Roi Rene. It is a more modern hotel, but it was a great location near the Cours Mirabeau. It was very nice, but nothing particularly French about it - seemed like maybe a business hotel kind of place - sort of Hyatt or Hilton-ish. A real plus point was that it had a pool, and since we were there during the start of the big heat wave, the pool was a greta relief at the end of a hot day.
Great bakery just behind the hotel. Our window opened onto the street of the bakery and the smells every AM were just too much - we were "forced" to eat many delectable treats from that place!
P.S. Came home with a tin of "Marco Polo" from Mariage Freres. You were right - it is delicious!
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:15 PM
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Hi Betsy! Yes - the Muguet is a great find. We'll definitely stay there again.
Sunday, and we're off to London on the Eurostar. Since I waited too long to buy tickets, the only thing available was first class. One of the best mistakes I ever made! Big comfy seats, a nice breakfast, and snow again! The countryside was blanketed in white all the way from Paris, to just before we entered the Chunnel. Arrived in London at 10:00 AM, and met up with some friends we made on our Tour de France trip. Since we only had 6 hours in London, our friends recommended one of those Hop-on Hop-off red double-decker busses. I think it was a good way to squeeze in many sites in such a short time frame. Our route took us past the Tower of London, Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace. to name a few. A pub lunch at The Clarence (fish & chips, and mushy peas, of course!), was followed by a nice stroll. Then back to Waterloo for a return trip to Paris. It was a wonderful first trip to London, and now we'll make plans to go for a more extended trip.
Monday was another strolling day. Started with cafe cremes at Cafe Francais at the Bastille. They give you a small silver pitcher of coffee and another of steamed milk so that you can mix your creme the way you like it - yum! Walked down Rue St. Antoine (one of my favorite streets)until it turns into Rue de Rivoli. Continued along the Tuileries and then over to the left bank for lunch at Le Nemrod on the Cherche-Midi. Huge salads, and a yummy bottle of Tavel energized us for shoe shopping on the Rue de Rennes. Only one pair this time - I showed incredible restraint. OK, the truth is they didn't have the second pair in my size, so I can't take full credit for being frugal.
Our huge salads at lunch meant that we were not so hungry for dinner. Onion soup at Le Flor en L'Ile on Ile St. Louis was just right - and you can't beat that view of Notre Dame.
Only one more day to go!
Sunday, and we're off to London on the Eurostar. Since I waited too long to buy tickets, the only thing available was first class. One of the best mistakes I ever made! Big comfy seats, a nice breakfast, and snow again! The countryside was blanketed in white all the way from Paris, to just before we entered the Chunnel. Arrived in London at 10:00 AM, and met up with some friends we made on our Tour de France trip. Since we only had 6 hours in London, our friends recommended one of those Hop-on Hop-off red double-decker busses. I think it was a good way to squeeze in many sites in such a short time frame. Our route took us past the Tower of London, Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace. to name a few. A pub lunch at The Clarence (fish & chips, and mushy peas, of course!), was followed by a nice stroll. Then back to Waterloo for a return trip to Paris. It was a wonderful first trip to London, and now we'll make plans to go for a more extended trip.
Monday was another strolling day. Started with cafe cremes at Cafe Francais at the Bastille. They give you a small silver pitcher of coffee and another of steamed milk so that you can mix your creme the way you like it - yum! Walked down Rue St. Antoine (one of my favorite streets)until it turns into Rue de Rivoli. Continued along the Tuileries and then over to the left bank for lunch at Le Nemrod on the Cherche-Midi. Huge salads, and a yummy bottle of Tavel energized us for shoe shopping on the Rue de Rennes. Only one pair this time - I showed incredible restraint. OK, the truth is they didn't have the second pair in my size, so I can't take full credit for being frugal.
Our huge salads at lunch meant that we were not so hungry for dinner. Onion soup at Le Flor en L'Ile on Ile St. Louis was just right - and you can't beat that view of Notre Dame.
Only one more day to go!
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:25 PM
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Hi KirRoyale,
I am glad to hear about positive comments on the Muguet. My husband and I are planning a trip to Paris in May or early June of 2005. I know that you were there during NYE, but how many months in advance should you try to reserve a room at the hotel. I was thinking about Feb. or March, but I don't know. Also is the hotel within walking distance of some good restaurants? Thanks!
I am glad to hear about positive comments on the Muguet. My husband and I are planning a trip to Paris in May or early June of 2005. I know that you were there during NYE, but how many months in advance should you try to reserve a room at the hotel. I was thinking about Feb. or March, but I don't know. Also is the hotel within walking distance of some good restaurants? Thanks!
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:31 PM
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We reserved the Muguet last Feb. for last June...but I have no idea if we were early or late in booking...no problem getting a room though. There are many restaurants nearby. The Florimond Restaurant is quite close, and although we never ate there, it has great reviews here, and the restaurant is adorable...I would definitely go there next time if I could.
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:38 PM
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Hi Kir! I was just thinking about you today and how your trip went. Now I know -- it sounds wonderful, even the snow, and I am filled with regret that we didn't follow through on our impulse to go. Terrific trip report, too!
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:39 PM
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Hi ilovetulips,
I reserved in October for this trip, and I didn't have any trouble. There were several nights that there was a note on the door indicating they were full. The hotel gets many positive remarks on this and other boards, so I'd say to book as soon as you know your dates - better to be safe.
Lots of good restaurants in the area. Some of our dinner favorites are Bistro 7eme, Le Maupertu, Le P'tit Troquet. Good nearby lunch places are Le Dome (corner of rue St. Dominique & avenue Bourdonnais), and La Terrasse at the Place Ecole Militaire. The Muguet offered breakfast for 7 euros, but we eat light in the AM, and we enjoyed a cafe cremes and tartines at a place called Le Source near the Latour-Maubourg metro - about 3 blocks from the hotel.
As wren mentioned, Le Florimond gets good reviews. We mssed it this time, but hope to try it in the future.
I reserved in October for this trip, and I didn't have any trouble. There were several nights that there was a note on the door indicating they were full. The hotel gets many positive remarks on this and other boards, so I'd say to book as soon as you know your dates - better to be safe.
Lots of good restaurants in the area. Some of our dinner favorites are Bistro 7eme, Le Maupertu, Le P'tit Troquet. Good nearby lunch places are Le Dome (corner of rue St. Dominique & avenue Bourdonnais), and La Terrasse at the Place Ecole Militaire. The Muguet offered breakfast for 7 euros, but we eat light in the AM, and we enjoyed a cafe cremes and tartines at a place called Le Source near the Latour-Maubourg metro - about 3 blocks from the hotel.
As wren mentioned, Le Florimond gets good reviews. We mssed it this time, but hope to try it in the future.
Jan 12th, 2004, 02:56 PM
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Hi Marilyn!
We thought about you and Flash several times during the trip, and what fun it would have been to meet up with you. I think that just means that we'll have to plan another trip!
Tuesday - our last day (said with great sadness!). Today was spent on lots of little visits to favorite spots. Champ du Mars, rue St. Dominique, Luxembourg Gardens. Lunch at Le Gueuze with a beautiful view of the Pantheon. Then on to the Place des Victoires and the gardens at the Palais Royale. Hot chocolate at Le Nemours, then off to Monoprix for things to bring home - spices, chocolare bars, bath soap. We always have our last dinner at Bistro de Breteuil, and it was perfect as always.
Every time I go to Paris, I come home with more appreciation of the colors, flavors, sounds, and feel of the place. I've only been home 5 days and I already miss it. But then, it's only 18 weeks and 3 days until our next trip - not that I'm counting!
We thought about you and Flash several times during the trip, and what fun it would have been to meet up with you. I think that just means that we'll have to plan another trip!
Tuesday - our last day (said with great sadness!). Today was spent on lots of little visits to favorite spots. Champ du Mars, rue St. Dominique, Luxembourg Gardens. Lunch at Le Gueuze with a beautiful view of the Pantheon. Then on to the Place des Victoires and the gardens at the Palais Royale. Hot chocolate at Le Nemours, then off to Monoprix for things to bring home - spices, chocolare bars, bath soap. We always have our last dinner at Bistro de Breteuil, and it was perfect as always.
Every time I go to Paris, I come home with more appreciation of the colors, flavors, sounds, and feel of the place. I've only been home 5 days and I already miss it. But then, it's only 18 weeks and 3 days until our next trip - not that I'm counting!
Jan 12th, 2004, 04:16 PM
#15
"Used to love the Tourville, but it has gotten too far out of our budget range...."
I also love the Tourville (but not its price increase). How would you compare Muguet To Tourville. Thanks. Glad you had fun. Welcome back to Cal-eeeeeee-for-neeeeee-ah.
I also love the Tourville (but not its price increase). How would you compare Muguet To Tourville. Thanks. Glad you had fun. Welcome back to Cal-eeeeeee-for-neeeeee-ah.
Jan 12th, 2004, 04:41 PM
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Hi MaiTai,
I think the lobby, breakfast area, etc., are comparable to the Tourville. The rooms are smaller, but not too small. The furniture is more modern than the Tourville, but nice. Bathrooms are modern and large - but white tile vs. black marble at Tourville. We were in a room right on a little garden and it was super-quiet. Probably the quietest room we've ever had in Paris.
Very nice people at the desk.
I think for the difference in price, Muguet was a great value, and we'll go back for sure.
Oh yes, about "Cal-eeeeeee-for-neeeeee-ah", we got a few giggles from people who found out we were from the "Governator" state.
I think the lobby, breakfast area, etc., are comparable to the Tourville. The rooms are smaller, but not too small. The furniture is more modern than the Tourville, but nice. Bathrooms are modern and large - but white tile vs. black marble at Tourville. We were in a room right on a little garden and it was super-quiet. Probably the quietest room we've ever had in Paris.
Very nice people at the desk.
I think for the difference in price, Muguet was a great value, and we'll go back for sure.
Oh yes, about "Cal-eeeeeee-for-neeeeee-ah", we got a few giggles from people who found out we were from the "Governator" state.
