volts and Hz
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 82
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volts and Hz
Could I doublecheck this info, just as a safeguard? (You can probably guess I am taking off in a few days, as I have posted quite a few questions. Answers have been very helpful.)
My understanding is that as long as a device reads:
220-240 v or 100-240 v
and 50-60Hz
I will be ok using them with just an adapter. As I understand it the 50-60Hz is crucial.
Feedback? Thanks in advance.
My understanding is that as long as a device reads:
220-240 v or 100-240 v
and 50-60Hz
I will be ok using them with just an adapter. As I understand it the 50-60Hz is crucial.
Feedback? Thanks in advance.
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Can you educate me? I have a charger that reads 5V DC.
Does that mean I would need a converter also? This is for my IPAC pocket PC; it seems strange to me that this kind of product would not be what I think is called "dual voltage."
The other alternative to charging would be to purchase an extra battery. That just occured to me. Frying my IPAC is not something that would enhance my vacation.
Thanks for your help.
Does that mean I would need a converter also? This is for my IPAC pocket PC; it seems strange to me that this kind of product would not be what I think is called "dual voltage."
The other alternative to charging would be to purchase an extra battery. That just occured to me. Frying my IPAC is not something that would enhance my vacation.
Thanks for your help.
#5



Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,874
Likes: 79
The 5v DC label should be on the line that goes from the charger to the appliance, not from the wall to the charger.
If the charger has a power cord that you stick in the wall someplace, then that means it will accept alternating current (AC), which it will then convert to DC for your pocket PC. If the wall power cord from the converter is hard-wired to it, then look on the ID plate or somewhere on the converter and it should say which acceptable voltages from the wall will work. In practice the great majority of small electronic appliance converters take both 110v and 220v (120/240 - same thing) with no problems.
If the charger has a power cord that you stick in the wall someplace, then that means it will accept alternating current (AC), which it will then convert to DC for your pocket PC. If the wall power cord from the converter is hard-wired to it, then look on the ID plate or somewhere on the converter and it should say which acceptable voltages from the wall will work. In practice the great majority of small electronic appliance converters take both 110v and 220v (120/240 - same thing) with no problems.
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 82
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Thank you for the clarifications. I was looking on the wrong device, as you guessed. The box does read 100-240Vl 50-60 HZ.
It is great to have kind expertise out there.
The last time I traveled in Europe predated personal computers, period.
It is great to have kind expertise out there.
The last time I traveled in Europe predated personal computers, period.
#7
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Actually most of those converters will have 2 values as has been said. Sometimes they are labeled Output and Input, where the input should be 110-240V AC 50-60Hz (Hertz) and the output is usually in the 5-25V range DC. Another note about electrical devices, especially desktop computers, is that some of them are dual voltage BUT they have a switch. The switch will say something like 110V <-> 220V so you set it to either of those two. And trust me if you plug a device set to 110V into a European 240V plug the result will be spectacular, but not very healthy for you or the device 
Sindre

Sindre




