Umbria and Rome- Truffles, a Narnian Wardrobe, and More Truffles
Jul 15th, 2011, 01:03 PM
#24
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Day 13 ~ Monday May 30 ~ Centro Storico and Rest
In the late morning I headed out to walk around the Centro Storico. I crossed over the Ponte Sisto and proceeded through the Piazza Farnese to the Campo dei Fiori. The daily market was in full swing. Piazza Navona was very active with living statues, a guitar player and espresso drinkers in the cafes. The Pantheon was mobbed with people including many tour groups, but the interior is a wonderful experience.
With the Centro Storico’s many winding streets and alleys I think of it as a neighborhood of small- to medium-scale buildings punctuated by the piazzas and their larger landmarks. I was therefore surprised in my visit to two churches on this walk: Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi, and Saint Ignazio. Both of them have a commanding front façade, but going inside I expected modest-sized churches. However, each had a large dramatic interior. Saint Ignazio has incredible trompe l’oeil painting on its ceilings that require neck-stiffening effort to sort out the real from the illusion. Organ music was a great accompaniment to the experience.
I had lunch at La Scala in Trastevere, sitting on their outdoor terrace on small, quiet Piazza della Scala. I had a Greek salad and a mixed seafood salad with a beer (€23), then back to the apartment for late afternoon and early evening of rest.
We ate dinner just around the corner from our apartment at Rivadestra, our most formal dining experience of the trip (partly because it was one of our few indoor meals). The owner, from Naples but a Rome resident for 20 years, was very accommodating. The interior (no outdoor seating) was comforting. The menu was limited in the number of dishes, which we took as a good sign. We started with pasta with sea bass and zucchini, which was outstanding. For our main courses I had grilled sea bass and DW had Danish steak, both of which were excellent. The chocolate torte for dessert was decadent. The total tab for dinner, including a bottle of Castel de Paolis Frascati was €75.
In the late morning I headed out to walk around the Centro Storico. I crossed over the Ponte Sisto and proceeded through the Piazza Farnese to the Campo dei Fiori. The daily market was in full swing. Piazza Navona was very active with living statues, a guitar player and espresso drinkers in the cafes. The Pantheon was mobbed with people including many tour groups, but the interior is a wonderful experience.
With the Centro Storico’s many winding streets and alleys I think of it as a neighborhood of small- to medium-scale buildings punctuated by the piazzas and their larger landmarks. I was therefore surprised in my visit to two churches on this walk: Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi, and Saint Ignazio. Both of them have a commanding front façade, but going inside I expected modest-sized churches. However, each had a large dramatic interior. Saint Ignazio has incredible trompe l’oeil painting on its ceilings that require neck-stiffening effort to sort out the real from the illusion. Organ music was a great accompaniment to the experience.
I had lunch at La Scala in Trastevere, sitting on their outdoor terrace on small, quiet Piazza della Scala. I had a Greek salad and a mixed seafood salad with a beer (€23), then back to the apartment for late afternoon and early evening of rest.
We ate dinner just around the corner from our apartment at Rivadestra, our most formal dining experience of the trip (partly because it was one of our few indoor meals). The owner, from Naples but a Rome resident for 20 years, was very accommodating. The interior (no outdoor seating) was comforting. The menu was limited in the number of dishes, which we took as a good sign. We started with pasta with sea bass and zucchini, which was outstanding. For our main courses I had grilled sea bass and DW had Danish steak, both of which were excellent. The chocolate torte for dessert was decadent. The total tab for dinner, including a bottle of Castel de Paolis Frascati was €75.
Jul 15th, 2011, 02:16 PM
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You had me at spaghetti carbonara!
One of those moments that are unplanned but make your trip happened to us in Santa Maria in Trestavere. We were admiring the tiles when the sweetest sound arose: it was a group of US high school kids, and they were singing spirituals. Charming.
One of those moments that are unplanned but make your trip happened to us in Santa Maria in Trestavere. We were admiring the tiles when the sweetest sound arose: it was a group of US high school kids, and they were singing spirituals. Charming.
Jul 19th, 2011, 06:42 AM
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David, I had to search for your trip report for Rome, it had been bumped down, and I'm glad I did.
Did you enjoy the Farnese Gardens? I'm a bit of a gardening fanatic and am wondering which gardens I need to allow time for.
CindyP
Did you enjoy the Farnese Gardens? I'm a bit of a gardening fanatic and am wondering which gardens I need to allow time for.
CindyP
Jul 19th, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Cindy-
We entered the Palatine Hill from the east, and after a long time in the sun, by the time we got to the Farnese Gardens the most interesting thing to us was a bench in the shade. The portion that we saw was very formal, not our favorite type of garden. There were some wooded areas close by that may have been part of the gardens, but we did not explore them. There were wild flowers in many areas of the hill and some of the vegetation growing against and near the ruins was interesting. From our admitted limited experience, I would not make the gardens a destination on its own, but the Palatine Hill is definitely worth a visit. My next post includes the Orto Botanico, which you may be interested in seeing.
Thanks for responding,
David
We entered the Palatine Hill from the east, and after a long time in the sun, by the time we got to the Farnese Gardens the most interesting thing to us was a bench in the shade. The portion that we saw was very formal, not our favorite type of garden. There were some wooded areas close by that may have been part of the gardens, but we did not explore them. There were wild flowers in many areas of the hill and some of the vegetation growing against and near the ruins was interesting. From our admitted limited experience, I would not make the gardens a destination on its own, but the Palatine Hill is definitely worth a visit. My next post includes the Orto Botanico, which you may be interested in seeing.
Thanks for responding,
David
Jul 19th, 2011, 11:43 AM
#28
cindy - the most interesting gardens I've seen in/near Rome were the ones of the villa d'este at tivoli. the closest I got to the vatican gardens was the view from the dome of st. Peters, though it is possible to book a tour at certain times of the year through the Vatican website.
Florence was much more fruitful - I saw the rose gardens, the villa barbini, the botanical gardens, and found a few others i can't remember all in 2 1/2 days!
many of the best gardens are private or are on the outskirts, really needing a car to get to conveniently.
we never got to the botanical gardens in Rome so i'll be interested to read about those, David.
Florence was much more fruitful - I saw the rose gardens, the villa barbini, the botanical gardens, and found a few others i can't remember all in 2 1/2 days!
many of the best gardens are private or are on the outskirts, really needing a car to get to conveniently.
we never got to the botanical gardens in Rome so i'll be interested to read about those, David.
Jul 19th, 2011, 02:49 PM
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Hi! David:
Looks like we were traveling in Italy about the same time! It was our first time to Umbria & Rome. So, it was fun to read your trip report and find out where our experiences over-lapped & what DH & I missed: gorgeous valley & mountain views of Sibillini Park; the escalators in Spoleto, a very vertical hill town & the Orto Botanico in Rome! Anxious to read about your visit to the botanical gardens & more!
Looks like we were traveling in Italy about the same time! It was our first time to Umbria & Rome. So, it was fun to read your trip report and find out where our experiences over-lapped & what DH & I missed: gorgeous valley & mountain views of Sibillini Park; the escalators in Spoleto, a very vertical hill town & the Orto Botanico in Rome! Anxious to read about your visit to the botanical gardens & more!
Jul 20th, 2011, 07:03 AM
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Day 14 ~ Tuesday May 31 ~ Galleria Borghese
We had a nice Panini lunch at Aristocampo 3 (not the Aristocampo Restaurant on via Lungara) on the way to pick up a cab to the Borghese. We arrived about an hour early for our 3:00 reserved time. We had booked by phone and were able to use our Roma Passes for the entire cost. After picking up tickets we walked around the park. The checking-of-bags procedure was not as strict as we had heard. I had a fanny pack and they let me keep it even after telling them that there was a camera inside. We rented audio tours, which were a good investment.
We had heard the tip to head immediately upstairs to allow the crowds to thin around the sculptures. As we entered the room with Apollo and Daphne, there was no one else there. We decided to stay and view it alone, which we were able to do for several minutes. It is a truly inspiring sculpture. People had caught up with us, but we decided to proceed with viewing the sculpture, and it blew us away. The “big three” Berninis (A&D, Rape of Persephone and David) live up to their billing. The first two were familiar through photographs, but David was a very pleasant surprise. It captures him in great concentration as he is about to throw the stone, a wonderful frozen moment. Booking specific tours ahead goes against our approach to decide more spontaneously what to do each day, but we were thrilled that we had booked the Borghese.
We caught the small #116 electric bus back to Trastevere. It is a great ride through the Centro Storico: bouncing on the cobblestones and just missing the parked cars. I know that we would have clipped several side mirrors if they had not been folded back. One couple boarded after just having bought gelato cones and hung on dearly and managed (barely) not to lose a drop. Inspired, we got gelato for our walk back to the apartment.
In the evening we wandered Trastevere looking for a place to eat (too many choices). We decided on pizza and had good pies and beer outdoors at Cacio e Pepe (€27). The pizzas were described as small, but once again we more than we could eat. On the way back to the apartment we wanted to scout a place for dinner for our last meal of the trip on the next night and I wanted something special. I had heard good things about Glass Hostaria. We looked at their menu and were surprised at the prices: €25 and up for each dish, which was at least double the price at many other very respectable Trastevere restaurants. The sleek interior was quite a change from all of our previous meals. We decided to pass and stopped at Romolo nel Giardino della Fornarina, because I had heard that they had a nice interior garden for dining. Before we got the garden we could hear a very loud amplified singer out there. It looked lovely, but there was no way that we would be able to relax. When we inquired about the singer and were told that this was a one-night event, we made reservations for the next night.
Day 15 ~ Wednesday June 1 ~ Botanical Garden
The Orto Botanico is located just around the corner from our apartment. DW is a big-time gardener, so this was a must-see. The gardens, formerly the garden of the adjacent Palazzo Corsini, are located on a slope that continues up to the Giancolo Hill. I do not know if there is an exit gate that would allow one to actually go up the hill from the gardens. There is a great variety of flowers, shrubs and trees set in a large area. There was a water lily pond and a nice raised garden of medicinal plants. Views from the upper elevations are impressive. The only greenhouse that was open was entirely succulents.
For lunch we had left-over pizza and then we started packing up and putting the apartment in order. We were the first to arrive at Romolo and were seated in the quiet garden. Several other couples arrived soon after. It is walled on all sides and is a nice respite from the bustling streets of Trastevere. The service was excellent and the food was very good. As this was our last night, we had run out of gas on the journal, so details of the meal (and my memory) are lacking. We had an eggplant appetizer, two pasta dishes, a dessert and a bottle of wine for €64.
We were very pleased with our decision to stay in Trastevere. Most of our evenings were spent in the area west of Via di Trastevere. Many of these streets are limited to pedestrians only, allowing relaxed strolling. The range of restaurants is extensive with many outdoor dining options. Via dei Riari, the street on which our apartment is located, is at the edge of Trastevere and is a dead-end street. Noise from late night revelers was not a problem. An apartment or B&B more central to the neighborhood might have more significant noise issues.
Day 16 ~ Thursday June 2 ~ Arrivederci Italia
Our Romecab driver arrived early, and I saw him out the window waiting patiently. This was a national holiday, so traffic was very light all of the way to the airport. Check-in at Terminal 5 was routine. The gate area is very new, but they really missed on a couple key items. There are very few dining options, so they are very crowded. Also, there is very little seating at the gate areas. More people were seated on the floor than in chairs. We bought extra food remembering US Air’s stingy servings, but the important thing is that they got us home safely and on time. The immigration line at the Philadelphia airport was massive. It took about 45 minutes to get through. Our bags were waiting when we cleared.
We had a nice Panini lunch at Aristocampo 3 (not the Aristocampo Restaurant on via Lungara) on the way to pick up a cab to the Borghese. We arrived about an hour early for our 3:00 reserved time. We had booked by phone and were able to use our Roma Passes for the entire cost. After picking up tickets we walked around the park. The checking-of-bags procedure was not as strict as we had heard. I had a fanny pack and they let me keep it even after telling them that there was a camera inside. We rented audio tours, which were a good investment.
We had heard the tip to head immediately upstairs to allow the crowds to thin around the sculptures. As we entered the room with Apollo and Daphne, there was no one else there. We decided to stay and view it alone, which we were able to do for several minutes. It is a truly inspiring sculpture. People had caught up with us, but we decided to proceed with viewing the sculpture, and it blew us away. The “big three” Berninis (A&D, Rape of Persephone and David) live up to their billing. The first two were familiar through photographs, but David was a very pleasant surprise. It captures him in great concentration as he is about to throw the stone, a wonderful frozen moment. Booking specific tours ahead goes against our approach to decide more spontaneously what to do each day, but we were thrilled that we had booked the Borghese.
We caught the small #116 electric bus back to Trastevere. It is a great ride through the Centro Storico: bouncing on the cobblestones and just missing the parked cars. I know that we would have clipped several side mirrors if they had not been folded back. One couple boarded after just having bought gelato cones and hung on dearly and managed (barely) not to lose a drop. Inspired, we got gelato for our walk back to the apartment.
In the evening we wandered Trastevere looking for a place to eat (too many choices). We decided on pizza and had good pies and beer outdoors at Cacio e Pepe (€27). The pizzas were described as small, but once again we more than we could eat. On the way back to the apartment we wanted to scout a place for dinner for our last meal of the trip on the next night and I wanted something special. I had heard good things about Glass Hostaria. We looked at their menu and were surprised at the prices: €25 and up for each dish, which was at least double the price at many other very respectable Trastevere restaurants. The sleek interior was quite a change from all of our previous meals. We decided to pass and stopped at Romolo nel Giardino della Fornarina, because I had heard that they had a nice interior garden for dining. Before we got the garden we could hear a very loud amplified singer out there. It looked lovely, but there was no way that we would be able to relax. When we inquired about the singer and were told that this was a one-night event, we made reservations for the next night.
Day 15 ~ Wednesday June 1 ~ Botanical Garden
The Orto Botanico is located just around the corner from our apartment. DW is a big-time gardener, so this was a must-see. The gardens, formerly the garden of the adjacent Palazzo Corsini, are located on a slope that continues up to the Giancolo Hill. I do not know if there is an exit gate that would allow one to actually go up the hill from the gardens. There is a great variety of flowers, shrubs and trees set in a large area. There was a water lily pond and a nice raised garden of medicinal plants. Views from the upper elevations are impressive. The only greenhouse that was open was entirely succulents.
For lunch we had left-over pizza and then we started packing up and putting the apartment in order. We were the first to arrive at Romolo and were seated in the quiet garden. Several other couples arrived soon after. It is walled on all sides and is a nice respite from the bustling streets of Trastevere. The service was excellent and the food was very good. As this was our last night, we had run out of gas on the journal, so details of the meal (and my memory) are lacking. We had an eggplant appetizer, two pasta dishes, a dessert and a bottle of wine for €64.
We were very pleased with our decision to stay in Trastevere. Most of our evenings were spent in the area west of Via di Trastevere. Many of these streets are limited to pedestrians only, allowing relaxed strolling. The range of restaurants is extensive with many outdoor dining options. Via dei Riari, the street on which our apartment is located, is at the edge of Trastevere and is a dead-end street. Noise from late night revelers was not a problem. An apartment or B&B more central to the neighborhood might have more significant noise issues.
Day 16 ~ Thursday June 2 ~ Arrivederci Italia
Our Romecab driver arrived early, and I saw him out the window waiting patiently. This was a national holiday, so traffic was very light all of the way to the airport. Check-in at Terminal 5 was routine. The gate area is very new, but they really missed on a couple key items. There are very few dining options, so they are very crowded. Also, there is very little seating at the gate areas. More people were seated on the floor than in chairs. We bought extra food remembering US Air’s stingy servings, but the important thing is that they got us home safely and on time. The immigration line at the Philadelphia airport was massive. It took about 45 minutes to get through. Our bags were waiting when we cleared.
Jul 21st, 2011, 06:21 AM
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TDudette-
Our drive was fine, especially considering that we left the Philadelphia airport at around 5:00 PM. Although traffic was fairly heavy, it was moving. It also helped that we know a local route that takes us around the dreaded Delaware Turnpike toll plaza.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Our drive was fine, especially considering that we left the Philadelphia airport at around 5:00 PM. Although traffic was fairly heavy, it was moving. It also helped that we know a local route that takes us around the dreaded Delaware Turnpike toll plaza.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 11:22 AM
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TDudette-
For those of you who do not live in the area the reason that this is of interest is that the "Delaware Turnpike" is a section of I-95 that is a little over 10 miles long and the toll is $4 each way. The back-ups at the toll plaza can be horrible.
To bypass the toll plaza on the I-95 Delaware Turnpike going north (distances are approximate):
1. Exit at Elkton Road (279) toward Newark.
2. Go 1 mile and turn right on Otis Chapel Road (at a garden center).
3. Go 3/4 mile and turn left on W. Chestnut Hill Road (I think that it is the first traffic signal).
4. Go 2 miles and turn right on S. College Avenue (896). It will be the first major intersection. The ramp to I-95 is 1/2 mile away.
Going south you reverse this route with one subtlety: to go "left" on W. Chestnut Hill Road get in the right lane and pass through the traffic signal to a short ramp that takes you to W. Chestnut Hill Road.
If traffic is moving on I-95 this would take you no more than 5 minutes longer than the highway. If traffic is heavy with back-ups at the toll plaza it can save significant time.
For those of you who do not live in the area the reason that this is of interest is that the "Delaware Turnpike" is a section of I-95 that is a little over 10 miles long and the toll is $4 each way. The back-ups at the toll plaza can be horrible.
To bypass the toll plaza on the I-95 Delaware Turnpike going north (distances are approximate):
1. Exit at Elkton Road (279) toward Newark.
2. Go 1 mile and turn right on Otis Chapel Road (at a garden center).
3. Go 3/4 mile and turn left on W. Chestnut Hill Road (I think that it is the first traffic signal).
4. Go 2 miles and turn right on S. College Avenue (896). It will be the first major intersection. The ramp to I-95 is 1/2 mile away.
Going south you reverse this route with one subtlety: to go "left" on W. Chestnut Hill Road get in the right lane and pass through the traffic signal to a short ramp that takes you to W. Chestnut Hill Road.
If traffic is moving on I-95 this would take you no more than 5 minutes longer than the highway. If traffic is heavy with back-ups at the toll plaza it can save significant time.
