Got back late Friday night and now I am back at work feeling a little zombie like. I will try to write my trip report tonight and not repeat what Seaurchin has already reported. But just to let you know that it was a fabulous 9 days - finally meeting Seaurchin and her friend was of course the highlight. I had many adventures, ate tons of food, drank gallons of vino - walked miles and really experienced for the first time the real Rome. Now I have to start planning my trip back in the fall.

Now that my zombie state has passed, I will attempt to do my trip report and try not to overlap SeaUrchin's too much.

Left Seattle at 11:15 a.m., I stayed at the Hilton at the airport the night before - got a $180 room for $50 on Priceline. It was a lovely room and the service at that hotel is amazing. Nice way to start out my vacation. I had to run to make my connection in Cinn., but I made it and was SO glad to be on a bigger plane and finally on my way to Roma!! Helps to have a nice seatmate too.

Arrived in Rome at 9:30 a.m. The driver was waiting for me - there is something so welcoming and comforting about seeing your name on a little sign held by a smiling, handsome Italian - sure worth the $$. My apt. was on the P. Santa Maria in Trastevere, but he had to park in the P. San Calisto. He took my suitcase and walked with me to the door to the apt.

I pushed the buzzer and the apt. owner came down to greet me. The apt. is on the 5th floor and there is a small lift. When I was shown into the apt., I was a little underwhelmed. It was large and bright, but pretty basic. No TV, radio/CD player, hair dryer, food, microwave, or toaster. There was a little kitchen with small fridge and two electric burners and a few staples though. A huge armoir that I had to use a stool from the bathroom to reach the hangers (I'm 5'2&quotand a small, but adequate bathroom -no bidet. It was just a little rough around the edges. But... as soon as I opened the big window, took a deep breath and relaxed a bit, I knew I would grow to love it here.

I met SeaUrchin (SU) and Seashell (SS) at the fountain in the P. Santa Maria. It was so wonderful to finally meet! We immediately fell into that comfortable feeling you get with long-time friends. We set out to find the TIM store to get my cell phone up and running. 50€ later, I was good to go -- best investment I ever made (Sony Ericsson T200). We had a great little lunch at SU's apt. (my old apt from last yr - love it), very tasty olive bread from a local Forno, cheese, fruit and a nice bottle of red vino. That evening we had dinner @ Aristocampo on Via Lungaretta, not far from my apt. It was very good and just what I needed. It's small, cozy, lots of charm and atmosphere, good food and wine and most important, just a short walk home. I was so tired, I was almost not tired, sort of giddy. I'm sure the vino didn't help the condition. I decided I would talk to the apt. owner in the a.m. She lives right next door, about some of my concerns. I lingered a little while gazing dreamily out my window at the little church on the Piazza Apollonia, which my window faced, at the young people with their dogs, sitting on the steps of the church, drinking wine out of the bottle, playing a guitar and singing. Music and sounds coming from the P. Santa Maria right around the corner and all the people strolling down Via Lungaretta and Via del Moro. I didn't care how basic my apt. was, or how incredibly tired I was. I felt the strong pull of Roma talking to me and I knew I would feel better in the morning (hint -- DON'T LET YOUR FIRST DAY GET YOU DOWN - IT GET'S BETTER.

How cool are you guys that you met up in Italy! I LOVE that! What a great adventure. I live in Seattle too, BTW. Are you guys (gals) planning on posting any pics anywhere? Shutterfly? Ephoto? Webshots? I'm glad you had a great time!

Glad you had a great time. Did you rent the apartment off a website? If so, were you not aware what the apartment had and did not have? Look forward to hearing more about your lovely week. Mike

I'm pretty sure SeaUrchin will be posting some pics and I will try, although I'm a little challenged in that area.

Day 2:

Luckily I got a good night's sleep and felt so much better after a nice hot shower. I felt ready to tackle whatever the day held for me. So, I put on my best happy face and my Rome for the day outfit and headed to Bar San Calisto for cappuccino. This is a regular hangout for neighbors, maintenance men and older women, who I suspect use this place as a morning meeting place. So I had a very good capp. for .80€! and was on my way. Next stop was Panella Store, a supermarket on Via N. Del Grande 18/20 for some supplies for my apt. - coffee, cream, olives. proscuitto, salami, cheese and most important Nivea Fluida Nutriente. While I was hauling my bags into the apt. bldg., I ran into the owner S. I told her about my concerns, mainly the hair dryer and CD player and she said she would give me a hair dryer and a small radio for musica. She also asked me if I would like to have coffee with her the next morning. She speaks pretty good English. I was so glad I had her living right next door.

After I dropped off my stuff, I headed out with a few places in mind that I watned to find in Trastevere. As I was walking down Via del Moro, which is a very narrow little street, a truck forced me to jump into a doorway to escape being run over. As I recovered and got my bearing again, I realized I was in the doorway to Almost Corner Bookshop - one of the places on my list! Delightful little bookstore w/an amazing choice of books in English. The owner, who is a Brit helped me find a lovely little book of watercolors of Rome and a mystery novel set in Rome. From there, actually just across the street, I found Forno La Renella, a wonderful place for pane, pastries, and so many choices of really yummy pizza you can buy by the slice to eat there, or to go. I bought a large chunk of delicious pane to go with my cheese and olives at home (.70&euro

Further down the street, I had lunch at Mario's. This is my fav little place and I return here every trip. The lady who waits tables shuffles around in her slippers and it is epitome of a home owned little osteria. Had antipasta, pasta with fresh veg. and 1/4 litre of vino - 12€! so good.

Dropped the pane at apt and was off again in search of Palazzo Corsini and Villa Farnesina. Unfortunately both are only open in the morning, but it wasn't a total loss because I found the way to the Orto Botanico and for some reason it was free that day. This is not quite the "french manicured gardens", the fountain near the entrance was a little green and slimy, but it was such a nice break from the noise and clamor of the streets and I sat and watched the mothers and children, students studying or just catching some rays. It was a lovely respite. When I got back to the apt. there in front of my door was a hair dryer and a large CD -boom box. I wondered if these were hers personally - later found out they were. Had a little rest and then out again to the cash machine and a gelato stop at Blu Ice on the piazza. I sat by the fountain on this beautiful piazza, watching all the people strolling about, listening to some musicians playing and watching a little boy and his father kicking a soccer ball and planned where I would have dinner that evening. Ahh, such is the life.

Mike: I rented through RealRome and they are fantastic. I did see the pic on the web page and it basically looked the same, but of course sometimes in real life, it can look a little different. By the end of my time there though, as you will read, I really came to love it.

Fantastic - thanks for adding more to the thread. Do you have the address and phone of Mario's? I'd love to know how to find it since you love it and go back it must be wonderful.

Unfortunately, I do not have the address/phone here at work - I'm sure I have it at home. It is very close to P. Trilussa, which is the piazza by Ponte Sisto.

I ate at Mario's last Easter week and had a wonderful lunch. I can also picture that lady serving all the tables. The place is on Via del Moro and is on the left side of the street as you're walking up from Piaz. Santa Maria. Mike

Interesting reading, Barb. My wife and I stayed in Trastevere year before last. What was the name of the mystery novel set in Rome?

Welcome back Barb!
I'm loving your trip report, reading every word, taking notes and awaiting the next installment...

Love reading your report and Seaurchin's too. We must have just missed each other since we were in Rome 3/11-3/16. The gelato at Blue Ice is wonderful. I'm in awe of you since I have yet to put my trip report together. Thanks for sharing.

Barb, curious about your outbound connection thru Cinncinati. How long was the delay between flights. Delta?

Thanks Barb (and all). I'll try to find Marios, now that barbmike put the street info up. Tante grazie a tutti!

I was hoping I wasn't getting too long-winded here - it's hard to pare it down though.

I'll get the name of that mystery when I go home. Geezer: yes, it was Delta. I was supposed to arrive at 6:14 and leave at 6:50, but it was more like 20 min. to get to the other gate! and I was still on the plane trying to get off.

Cont. had dinner that night at Taverna della Scala, P. della Scala 19-20, out on the heated terrace. 1/2 ltr of rosso, Abbachio Scottadito (grilled lamb chops), Potate Arrosto (roasted potatoes) Insalta Mista = 20€. Good food, service ok, but they seated a man at my table, sitting opposite me - now you are saying how can this be a bad thing - BUT, he talked on his phone the whole time, except when he was wolfing down his dinner, and tried very hard to avoid eye contact, so we never spoke a word. Plus the owners/manager, kept sort of "watching" me all evening. I was very uncomfortable and will probably not return, or at least solo. It's too bad because the food was good and the price was right.

Again, enjoyed the scene out my window and fell asleep listening to the sounds of the street and anticipating another day and coffee with S.

Awoke to the sun streaming in the window and the noises of the streets coming alive. Met S and we walked through Trastevere. She has owned and lived in this bldg for 26 yrs. and yet she found this little hidden courtyard that she did not know was there, so we stepped inside. Apparently it was an ancient convent and they were painstakingly trying to restore it. Too funny, it's been here all these years and she just now discovered it. We went to her "womans club" and had coffee. We talked, actually she did most of the talking, telling me about herself and her family. A very interesting woman. As we parted, she kissed my cheek and said we were simpatico and hoped we could get together and talk some more. Now this is what I have always dreamed of. Meeting a real Roman (7th generation)and experiencing Rome, not just rushing about from one sight to another.

Met SU and SS and we headed to the Ghetto for a lovely lunch at a VERY small and very popular with the locals, place. I wont' go into the details, as SU and SS had been here before, she will tell you all about it I'm sure. We wandered around that area, I showed them my fav fountain in Rome,the turtle fountain. We then walked to Testaccio by way of the Mouth of Truth, which they had never seen before. Long walk, but relaxing and we needed to walk off lunch. We stopped at an internet place to let any Fodorites who were planning on meeting us the next night, that we would be late as we were going to Naples and AC the next day - was not planned when we made the arrangements to meet. We also tried to get train tickets to Naples. The first place told us there was going to be a demonstration the next morning and we would not be able to get to the train station because all the streets would be closed. She suggested going to the train station in Trastevere and going from there to Termini. We were wondering about that as we heard it was going to be on Mon. and this was Sat. Luckily we went back to the place they had bought their tickets for Florence and it was no problem. (HINT: DON'T ALWAYS BELIEVE WHAT YOU ARE TOLD).

Met SU and SS that evening for dinner at Al Pompiere. I thought it was a little stuffy and service was not very good. I think SU mentioned the little touchy feely thing that happened so I won't elaborate on that. The food was so so, maybe just what I ordered - baked lamb w/artichokes. Afterwards we stopped at an old hangout of mine on Via Lungarette - Vincenzo's and had some limoncella and called it a day.

Left bright and early for Naples and then on to the coast. Had a wonderful day - I got to meet SU's friend and he showed us the coast from Sorrento to Amalfi. It was a gloriously sunny day - we even picked some olive branches to hopefully be blessed the next day by the Pope. Had a very long and very delicious lunch high in hills above Positano. Again, SU will tell all about it. Barely made our train back to Rome, hated to leave the magic of that day behind. We were in a compartment with 3 men. One coming from Sicily. One was a VERY handsome and VERY nice young man from Sorrento who was going to Rome to pick up his tour group, Cosmos. He is a tour guide. My bed felt very good that night.

I sure enjoy reading your report. It takes me right back to when I was in Rome last November with two friends. It must have been great for you living in lovely Trastevere; apart from the Vatican it was the only place we felt absolutely compelled to visit a second time, although we wish we had more time to spend everywhere. The bookstore you mention must have been the same one we visited. The British owner was very nice. Santa Maria in Trastevere was pretty amazing, too.

Yes, there are some VERY attractive men in Italy, aren't there? It seemed to me that many of them wore their hair a bit longer "ala Renaissance prince", which I think is quite charming!

<Again, enjoyed the scene out my window and fell asleep listening to the sounds of the street and anticipating another day and coffee with S.>

For a split second I wondered "Why is Barb meeting with SeaUrchin's "S" for coffee?"

I'm loving this report, thanks for the great details, I feel like I'm walking around with you.

Yes, Trastevere is a wonderful area of Roma and one I will continue to return to if possible.

The name of the book I bought is The Villa of Mysteries by David Hewson and is apparently the second in a series, the first is Season of the Dead - both with Detective Nic Costa.

The address of Mario's is Via Del Moro, 53/55 and the bookstore is Via Del Moro, 45.

Palm Sun. -- Woke up to yet another beautiful day and church bells ringing - as I was lying in bed, I thought to myself how much I love my little apt. It is just perfect for me. It has everything I need, the location is great and how lucky I am to have such a wonderful landlady.

SU and SS met me out front and we walked, olive branches in hand, along Lungotevere all the way to St. Peters. We were met with throngs of people making their way to the square. We had to go through a security post to get past the barricades. Young, good looking officers were going through everyone's purses, backpacks and packages. We found some space to sit on the steps surrounding the square and listened to the services which were on a loudspeaker, together with big screens on either side of the square - rather like being at a concert. It was very moving to listen to the choir, music and just to be one in that huge crowd of pilgrims. We were there for an hour or so and as I was suggesting we leave because it didn't look like the Pope was going to come to the window, there he was!! It was such an emotional moment. I'm not even Catholic, but just to watch the crowd, most in tears, we could't help but get caught up in the emotions too and it was a very teary moment watching all the olive branches waiving in the air and seeing the Pope blessing the masses. Really a moment I will never forget.

We managed to make our way out of the square and inched our way along. Walked over Ponte S. Angelo on our way to lunch at L'Orso 80 (Via dell'Orso 33).

amsinrome - I also thought (at first), what's this, both Sea Urchin and Barb are seeing the same guy?? Does Sea Urchin know about this?

Barb, really enjoying your report. Did you like the Roman mystery book?

What happened to the GTG on Saturday evening? I hope you had the famous L'Orso 80 Antipasta!!! Mike