Ubeda, Spain - Trip Report
Jun 3rd, 2024 | 08:47 AM
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Ubeda, Spain - Trip Report
Ubeda was stop three on our Andalusian road trip. You can find my trip reports for Malaga and Granada elsewhere on this site or by clicking on my username.
Ubeda (pronounced Ooh bee dar) is an example of what Renaissance urban planners regarded as the perfect town. The town’s heart is Plaza Vázquez de Molina, which is surrounded by civil and religious buildings built from 1530 to 1580, including the magnificent funeral chapel of El Salvador and the Vázquez de Molina Palace (today’s Town Hall).
With the many other churches, mansions, and palaces, Ubeda is the greatest ensemble of Renaissance architecture in Spain and one of the most important in Europe. It’s no surprise that it has a UNESCO World Heritage designation.
In February, Ubeda really did feel like a town shut down for winter. Many of the bars and restaurants were closed and the historic centre was quite deserted. However, the sun was still warm during the day and no crowds to contend with, made exploring the historic center a true delight.
Two days in Ubeda was the perfect amount of time to soak up its charms, take in the stunning architecture, and absorb the rich history that permeates every corner of this beautiful town. If you're planning a trip to Granada or Cordoba, do yourself a favor and make the short trip to Ubeda (it’s an easy 90 minute from Granada) – you won't be disappointed!
In the sections below, I have only listed places that I have personally visited.
STAYING (prices are from February 2024)
Hotel Palacio de Úbeda 5GL (C. Juan Pasquau, 2,)
Set in a lovely 16th century palace, just a five-minute walk from Plaza Vázquez de Molina, Hotel Palacio de Úbeda was an ‘interesting” place to stay.
We arrived by rental car and driving the extremely narrow streets of Ubeda was quite fretful. Luckily, we found a spot right in front of the hotel and took advantage of the valet parking. The check in was very welcoming.
Our room was enormous, and the furniture and décor best described as chintzy and dated. There was a giant bath tub out in the open (which is always a bit weird) but happily there was also a separate shower. The loo featured a 'Japanese style' toilet with all sorts of heating and spraying functions. Overall, not the 5-star experience the hotel likes to describe.
There are two things, however, that do make this hotel special and worthy of consideration - the rooftop pool and the underground thermal spa.
As it was February, the rooftop pool was not open but it’s easy to imagine what a great and unique spot this would be.
The underground thermal spa is amazing. We booked the Palace Ritual for two people (paying €55.00 per person). This package included a 55-minute circuit of the spa and a 25-minute massage to follow. The circuit (which you can wander through as you please) involves several areas with baths, tubs, and showers of water at different temperatures all of which lead you to an unexpectedly large and quite beautiful roman style bath area. You will be stunned!!
We paid €170.00 per night via Hotels.Com
EATING (prices are from February 2024)
Cafetería Tapería el Mirador (C. Baja del Salvador, 11, Bajo)
Stopped at this little cafeteria on our first afternoon in town. It’s just off the Plaza Vázquez de Molina and has lovely views over the countryside.
We sat outside in the February sun and enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine along with some tapas of paella. For lunch we ordered a chorizo bocadillos (sandwich), a tortilla (omelette), and some chicken skewers.
The food and drinks were ok, and at €22.00 were also ok value for money. We found the service to be friendly but reading other reviews that does not seem to be a universal experience. We did engage in our best basic Spanish which might have made a difference.
Recommended
Taberna La Tintorera (C. Real, 27)
This was our favourite place to eat in Ubeda during our trip.
Taberna La Tintorera is a small restaurant and wine bar located on Calle Real. With around 20 covers it is a cozy and welcoming spot – especially on a dark February evening.
We ordered a couple of glasses of the Vidilla Verdejo and enjoyed them so much we then ordered a bottle!
For dinner we shared a tomato salad followed by wok vegetables and flamequin (pork and cheese roll).
The food was excellent, and dinner cost us €57.00. What made the meal a standout, however, was the lovely service. The proprietor, who also manages front of house, was charming and gracious. She made us feel welcome, and looked after, from the moment we walked through the door.
Highly recommended.
Taberna El Mercado (Pl. Primero de Mayo, 31)
After a morning of walking from one Renaissance masterpiece to another, Taberna El Mercado was a lovely spot for lunch in the February sun.
Located in the picturesque Plaza de Mayo, this is a typical Spanish taberna – by which I mean welcoming, unpretentious, and good value for money.
As we ordered our drinks we were served some quite delicious paella as tapas. For lunch we ordered revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms) and patatas bravas – the server stopped us ordering more food!
Our lunch including a bottle of wine was at €32.00
Recommended.
DRINKING (prices are from February 2024)
La Bodega de Úbeda (C. Real, 19)
This is an old school bodega located on the Calle Real.
Having become fans of the bodega culture we just stopped in for a look and a quick drink.
Expect to pay around €3.00 for a glass of wine or sherry. They have, what seems to be a very local food menu, which we did not try on this occasion. An authentic experience.
Highly Recommended
La Cultural de Úbeda (C. Real, 20)
La Cultural de Úbeda is a super interesting events and gastronomy space which includes a small theater for local productions.
There were no events going on while we were there, but it was one of the very few restaurants open on the Calle Real and was a bright and welcoming spot on a winter’s evening.
We sat the modern bar and enjoyed a glass of glass of wine and a Fino. There was a steady stream of customers coming in for a drink and for dinner. We did not eat here so unable to comment on the food, but the menu looked interesting and reasonable.
Expect to pay about €3.50 for a glass of wine or sherry. It’s funny how you remember random details, and here it was being served some very nice Manchego as tapas - which was made extra special by the olive oil drizzled on it by the server!
Highly Recommended
DOING (prices are from February2024)
This is the easiest “doing” section of any of my trip reports (and a bit of a cheat!). All you need to do is pick up a tourist map and walk to each of the highlighted monuments – pop your head into as many as you have time for - but do make sure to visit the following:
Sacra Capilla del Salvador (€5.00 per person to visit) (Pl. Vázquez de Molina)
Church of San Pablo (€2.00 per person to visit – cash donation) (Pl. Primero de Mayo)
Hospital de Santiago (free to visit) (Pl. Santiago)
Alfarería Tito (Pl. Ayuntamiento, 12)
Ubeda is renowned for its centuries-old ceramics tradition, particularly the distinctive green-glaze, a technique influenced by Moorish craftsmanship. Alfarería Tito, is a ceramics workshop that has played a significant role in preserving and promoting this heritage and is an interesting place to visit.
Ubeda (pronounced Ooh bee dar) is an example of what Renaissance urban planners regarded as the perfect town. The town’s heart is Plaza Vázquez de Molina, which is surrounded by civil and religious buildings built from 1530 to 1580, including the magnificent funeral chapel of El Salvador and the Vázquez de Molina Palace (today’s Town Hall).
With the many other churches, mansions, and palaces, Ubeda is the greatest ensemble of Renaissance architecture in Spain and one of the most important in Europe. It’s no surprise that it has a UNESCO World Heritage designation.
In February, Ubeda really did feel like a town shut down for winter. Many of the bars and restaurants were closed and the historic centre was quite deserted. However, the sun was still warm during the day and no crowds to contend with, made exploring the historic center a true delight.
Two days in Ubeda was the perfect amount of time to soak up its charms, take in the stunning architecture, and absorb the rich history that permeates every corner of this beautiful town. If you're planning a trip to Granada or Cordoba, do yourself a favor and make the short trip to Ubeda (it’s an easy 90 minute from Granada) – you won't be disappointed!
In the sections below, I have only listed places that I have personally visited.
STAYING (prices are from February 2024)
Hotel Palacio de Úbeda 5GL (C. Juan Pasquau, 2,)
Set in a lovely 16th century palace, just a five-minute walk from Plaza Vázquez de Molina, Hotel Palacio de Úbeda was an ‘interesting” place to stay.
We arrived by rental car and driving the extremely narrow streets of Ubeda was quite fretful. Luckily, we found a spot right in front of the hotel and took advantage of the valet parking. The check in was very welcoming.
Our room was enormous, and the furniture and décor best described as chintzy and dated. There was a giant bath tub out in the open (which is always a bit weird) but happily there was also a separate shower. The loo featured a 'Japanese style' toilet with all sorts of heating and spraying functions. Overall, not the 5-star experience the hotel likes to describe.
There are two things, however, that do make this hotel special and worthy of consideration - the rooftop pool and the underground thermal spa.
As it was February, the rooftop pool was not open but it’s easy to imagine what a great and unique spot this would be.
The underground thermal spa is amazing. We booked the Palace Ritual for two people (paying €55.00 per person). This package included a 55-minute circuit of the spa and a 25-minute massage to follow. The circuit (which you can wander through as you please) involves several areas with baths, tubs, and showers of water at different temperatures all of which lead you to an unexpectedly large and quite beautiful roman style bath area. You will be stunned!!
We paid €170.00 per night via Hotels.Com
EATING (prices are from February 2024)
Cafetería Tapería el Mirador (C. Baja del Salvador, 11, Bajo)
Stopped at this little cafeteria on our first afternoon in town. It’s just off the Plaza Vázquez de Molina and has lovely views over the countryside.
We sat outside in the February sun and enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine along with some tapas of paella. For lunch we ordered a chorizo bocadillos (sandwich), a tortilla (omelette), and some chicken skewers.
The food and drinks were ok, and at €22.00 were also ok value for money. We found the service to be friendly but reading other reviews that does not seem to be a universal experience. We did engage in our best basic Spanish which might have made a difference.
Recommended
Taberna La Tintorera (C. Real, 27)
This was our favourite place to eat in Ubeda during our trip.
Taberna La Tintorera is a small restaurant and wine bar located on Calle Real. With around 20 covers it is a cozy and welcoming spot – especially on a dark February evening.
We ordered a couple of glasses of the Vidilla Verdejo and enjoyed them so much we then ordered a bottle!
For dinner we shared a tomato salad followed by wok vegetables and flamequin (pork and cheese roll).
The food was excellent, and dinner cost us €57.00. What made the meal a standout, however, was the lovely service. The proprietor, who also manages front of house, was charming and gracious. She made us feel welcome, and looked after, from the moment we walked through the door.
Highly recommended.
Taberna El Mercado (Pl. Primero de Mayo, 31)
After a morning of walking from one Renaissance masterpiece to another, Taberna El Mercado was a lovely spot for lunch in the February sun.
Located in the picturesque Plaza de Mayo, this is a typical Spanish taberna – by which I mean welcoming, unpretentious, and good value for money.
As we ordered our drinks we were served some quite delicious paella as tapas. For lunch we ordered revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms) and patatas bravas – the server stopped us ordering more food!
Our lunch including a bottle of wine was at €32.00
Recommended.
DRINKING (prices are from February 2024)
La Bodega de Úbeda (C. Real, 19)
This is an old school bodega located on the Calle Real.
Having become fans of the bodega culture we just stopped in for a look and a quick drink.
Expect to pay around €3.00 for a glass of wine or sherry. They have, what seems to be a very local food menu, which we did not try on this occasion. An authentic experience.
Highly Recommended
La Cultural de Úbeda (C. Real, 20)
La Cultural de Úbeda is a super interesting events and gastronomy space which includes a small theater for local productions.
There were no events going on while we were there, but it was one of the very few restaurants open on the Calle Real and was a bright and welcoming spot on a winter’s evening.
We sat the modern bar and enjoyed a glass of glass of wine and a Fino. There was a steady stream of customers coming in for a drink and for dinner. We did not eat here so unable to comment on the food, but the menu looked interesting and reasonable.
Expect to pay about €3.50 for a glass of wine or sherry. It’s funny how you remember random details, and here it was being served some very nice Manchego as tapas - which was made extra special by the olive oil drizzled on it by the server!
Highly Recommended
DOING (prices are from February2024)
This is the easiest “doing” section of any of my trip reports (and a bit of a cheat!). All you need to do is pick up a tourist map and walk to each of the highlighted monuments – pop your head into as many as you have time for - but do make sure to visit the following:
Sacra Capilla del Salvador (€5.00 per person to visit) (Pl. Vázquez de Molina)
Church of San Pablo (€2.00 per person to visit – cash donation) (Pl. Primero de Mayo)
Hospital de Santiago (free to visit) (Pl. Santiago)
Alfarería Tito (Pl. Ayuntamiento, 12)
Ubeda is renowned for its centuries-old ceramics tradition, particularly the distinctive green-glaze, a technique influenced by Moorish craftsmanship. Alfarería Tito, is a ceramics workshop that has played a significant role in preserving and promoting this heritage and is an interesting place to visit.
Jun 3rd, 2024 | 09:49 AM
#2
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
Thanks for this lovely report of a lesser known town. It has been on our radar screen for a while, along with Jaén (and its seemingly gorgeous Parador), but we have yet to make it over. We are looking at including these in our next Spanish jaunt so this is very timely indeed. Regards.
Jun 3rd, 2024 | 11:01 AM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,661
Likes: 0
It's so nice to see a trip report about one of Spain's truly most glorious Renaissance towns with its stunning Vandelvira architecture. We have spent Holy Week here, while staying at the Parador, and also in the neighboring Renaissance gem, the smaller Baeza, and these far more somber celebrations-processions are so very different from the ones in Sevilla and Málaga.
I have a number of pieces from the Alfarería Tito in my kitchen.
I have a number of pieces from the Alfarería Tito in my kitchen.
Jun 4th, 2024 | 08:58 AM
#5
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,312
Likes: 0
Very interesting!!
What would be the easiest way for a person with luggage to travel from Ubeda or Jaen to either Jerez airport or Sevilla city?
I am looking for ease, not necessarily economy.
Ultimate destination would be near Vejer de la Frontera; easiest point to rent cars for the town is the airport serving Jerez and Cadiz.
The drive is too far for me to undertake alone in a rental car. (I tend to fall asleep when driving more than one hour, anywhere in any country).
What would be the easiest way for a person with luggage to travel from Ubeda or Jaen to either Jerez airport or Sevilla city?
I am looking for ease, not necessarily economy.
Ultimate destination would be near Vejer de la Frontera; easiest point to rent cars for the town is the airport serving Jerez and Cadiz.
The drive is too far for me to undertake alone in a rental car. (I tend to fall asleep when driving more than one hour, anywhere in any country).
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 4th, 2024 at 09:00 AM.
Jun 4th, 2024 | 09:04 AM
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,661
Likes: 0
Sheer ease. with lots of luggage? A private transfer, but from Jaén to the Sevilla airport it's 233 km. and a 2 hour, 30+ minute drive.
To your ultimate destination, Jerez airport, a private transfer from Jaén would take 3 hours, 20 minutes, a distance of 284 km.
An Alsa bus transfer would require a bus change in Granada and take a total of 4 hours, 30 minutes to Sevilla
To your ultimate destination, Jerez airport, a private transfer from Jaén would take 3 hours, 20 minutes, a distance of 284 km.
An Alsa bus transfer would require a bus change in Granada and take a total of 4 hours, 30 minutes to Sevilla
Last edited by Maribel; Jun 4th, 2024 at 09:48 AM.
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Jun 6th, 2024 | 02:01 AM
#8
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,661
Likes: 0
eks,
As neckervd notes, there's train service from Jaén, if you were to base there. We've stayed 3 times at the Parador next to the castle high atop the hill.
To Jerez there are four MD, Media Distancia, trains w/o the train change,but the ride takes between 4 hours, 42 min. and 4 hours, 57 min.
To Cádiz from Jaén on these MD direct trains, the ride takes from 5 hours, 20 min, to 5 hours, 40 min.
I do take these MD trains for rides that take about an hour, for example, from Sevilla San Bernardo to Jerez. But these are basic trains, similar to the Cercanías, without bar cars, drink trolleys, entertainment, first class seats, etc. but seat assignments are required....not as comfortable as the Alvias and Aves or the new Iryo, that you've tried,, if that matters.
As neckervd notes, there's train service from Jaén, if you were to base there. We've stayed 3 times at the Parador next to the castle high atop the hill.
To Jerez there are four MD, Media Distancia, trains w/o the train change,but the ride takes between 4 hours, 42 min. and 4 hours, 57 min.
To Cádiz from Jaén on these MD direct trains, the ride takes from 5 hours, 20 min, to 5 hours, 40 min.
I do take these MD trains for rides that take about an hour, for example, from Sevilla San Bernardo to Jerez. But these are basic trains, similar to the Cercanías, without bar cars, drink trolleys, entertainment, first class seats, etc. but seat assignments are required....not as comfortable as the Alvias and Aves or the new Iryo, that you've tried,, if that matters.
Jun 6th, 2024 | 06:13 AM
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,661
Likes: 0
Yes, I understand, and no, it´s certainly not forbidden...
but having met ekscrunchy and having discussed the luggage issue, and knowing that she enjoyed the assistance of the IRYO attendant helping with her bags in Córdoba and the other IRYO amenities, and also that she has used private transfers in the past (on her most recent trip, cost not being a deciding factor), I suggested that for her specifically (but not for everyone, of course) a private transfer as her easiest, quickest option straight to her final destination, which is the Jerez airport, to pick up her rental car for driving to her lodging in Vejer.
Jaén to Córdoba on the MD, then Córdoba to Jerez on the Alvia would require perhaps either a long wait, or a 2-minute connection time in Córdoba, plus from Jerez rail she would need to transfer to the airport, where she usually picks up her rental car,
but having met ekscrunchy and having discussed the luggage issue, and knowing that she enjoyed the assistance of the IRYO attendant helping with her bags in Córdoba and the other IRYO amenities, and also that she has used private transfers in the past (on her most recent trip, cost not being a deciding factor), I suggested that for her specifically (but not for everyone, of course) a private transfer as her easiest, quickest option straight to her final destination, which is the Jerez airport, to pick up her rental car for driving to her lodging in Vejer.
Jaén to Córdoba on the MD, then Córdoba to Jerez on the Alvia would require perhaps either a long wait, or a 2-minute connection time in Córdoba, plus from Jerez rail she would need to transfer to the airport, where she usually picks up her rental car,
Last edited by Maribel; Jun 6th, 2024 at 06:21 AM.
Jun 7th, 2024 | 11:07 AM
#12
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,312
Likes: 0
Necker: Just to give you an idea of my usual travel style:
See me, on steps, third large photo from top:
Why, oh, why are those porters so slow????????? It's enough to make my rouge run!
https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.co...history-198351
See me, on steps, third large photo from top:
Why, oh, why are those porters so slow????????? It's enough to make my rouge run!
https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.co...history-198351
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