Extremadura, Sevilla, Ronda, Ubeda Trip Report
Jul 15th, 2007, 07:02 AM
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Extremadura, Sevilla, Ronda, Ubeda Trip Report
Thanks to Graziella, josele, maribel and ekscrunchy for your help and advice
in planning our recent trip to Spain.
I've delayed posting a trip report since I felt negative towards some cities and hoped this would change -- it hasn't so I am posting "alternative" views on some of the best loved sites in Spain
This was our 5th trip to Spain and we still love it.
It was a 9-day <b>road trip </b> (+2 nights in the Paris - Madrid train) from 31 May-10 June.
My husband and I left Paris in pouring rain with our champagne picnic dinner. We reserved a business class cabin which was perfect for us -- I love the trenhotel.
We arrived on time the next morning in sunny Madrid. We rented a car as usual at Alamo at the Chamartin station. The procedure has changed and now you need to go down the hill to pick up your car (it appeared to be the same for all companies).
<b>Madrid to Segovia</b>
By the time we were on the road, Las Rozas was open but I decided to pass it up this time.
We took the freeway then the smaller roads to Navacerrada then Lozoya to Pedraza: The mountain scenery was gorgeous and it was quite cool. I was pleased that I had my raincoat (the only time I used it). I especially liked the snow poles to mark the edge of the road, the streams and little waterfalls and flowers.
We arrived in Pedraza at about 13.00, parked our car and strolled around the village.
The main square is very pretty and the facades are in a nice state (not over restored); we walked to the castle, decided not to go in and observed the storks in their nests and the beautiful views. The village is very small and seemed to just cater to tourists.
We continued our stroll back to the main square and entered El Yantar for our lunch reservation. We had reserved a place on the balcony which was not really necessary since while we were there there were only 2 other tables.
I had misunderstood other posters and thought that potatoes and salad came with the lamb. So we only ordered a starter: patatas revolconas and the 1/4 de Cordero Lechal for 2, and a nice bottle of red wine. This lunch was a special treat for my DH since I do not like lamb. He said it was quite good but he found it a bit greasy; for me it tasted like lamb but the potatoes and wine were wonderful and the view was superb.
We continued on to <b>Turégano </b>to see the castle (outside only); then to <b>Zamarramala</b>. Just outside Zamarramala is the 12-sided 13th century Iglesia de la Vera Cruz -- This was my favorite church on this trip.
We continued to Maribel's viewpoint to see the Alcazar of Segovia.
We had excellent directions from the hotel and made our way to the center of the city via the traffic-restricted streets to the <b>Infanta Isabel Hotel</b>. (I had tried to reserve a room here months in advance and was told there were no rooms but when I checked one week out, we were able to get a room).
We parked our car in front of the hotel where they had valet parking. Our room was wonderful with a view of the square where they were setting up huge speakers...
We went first to the old cathedral (access through the new one which we visited in passing). Then down the hill to the alcazar. Due to the huge tourist groups and that fact that it was heavily rebuilt, we decided not to visit the interior. The views of the countryside were beautiful. We walked back up towards the old part of town, following a pre-planned route to see the tourist sites, then down to see the Aqueduct.
From here we visited the modern part of town, where they were setting up more speakers and visited the San Millan church. We then meandered the back streets until we saw a <u>huge staircase </u> and yes we walked back up (with the excess water from the aqueduct flowing down the handrails) to Plaza de San Martin. Here they were also setting up huge speakers....
We were a bit tired at this point so we had a drink and then went back to the hotel. It was almost time for our dinner but we were not hungry enough to go to Jose Maria as planned. Instead we went to a small bar and had wine and tapas. We ordered <b><font color="red">Fino </font></b>but got Vino! But it was good.
By this time the music had started and even though our room had 4-panes of glass, we could still feel the bass (not the words of the songs though). The music seems to have stopped around 3 am and we slept soundly. We took breakfast at the hotel and due to the late hour (10 am) and lack of waitstaff, our order for eggs was forgotten. After asking again, we received them. Even with the music and slow breakfast I would recommend this hotel.
in planning our recent trip to Spain.
I've delayed posting a trip report since I felt negative towards some cities and hoped this would change -- it hasn't so I am posting "alternative" views on some of the best loved sites in Spain
This was our 5th trip to Spain and we still love it.
It was a 9-day <b>road trip </b> (+2 nights in the Paris - Madrid train) from 31 May-10 June.
My husband and I left Paris in pouring rain with our champagne picnic dinner. We reserved a business class cabin which was perfect for us -- I love the trenhotel.
We arrived on time the next morning in sunny Madrid. We rented a car as usual at Alamo at the Chamartin station. The procedure has changed and now you need to go down the hill to pick up your car (it appeared to be the same for all companies).
<b>Madrid to Segovia</b>
By the time we were on the road, Las Rozas was open but I decided to pass it up this time.
We took the freeway then the smaller roads to Navacerrada then Lozoya to Pedraza: The mountain scenery was gorgeous and it was quite cool. I was pleased that I had my raincoat (the only time I used it). I especially liked the snow poles to mark the edge of the road, the streams and little waterfalls and flowers.
We arrived in Pedraza at about 13.00, parked our car and strolled around the village.
The main square is very pretty and the facades are in a nice state (not over restored); we walked to the castle, decided not to go in and observed the storks in their nests and the beautiful views. The village is very small and seemed to just cater to tourists.
We continued our stroll back to the main square and entered El Yantar for our lunch reservation. We had reserved a place on the balcony which was not really necessary since while we were there there were only 2 other tables.
I had misunderstood other posters and thought that potatoes and salad came with the lamb. So we only ordered a starter: patatas revolconas and the 1/4 de Cordero Lechal for 2, and a nice bottle of red wine. This lunch was a special treat for my DH since I do not like lamb. He said it was quite good but he found it a bit greasy; for me it tasted like lamb but the potatoes and wine were wonderful and the view was superb.
We continued on to <b>Turégano </b>to see the castle (outside only); then to <b>Zamarramala</b>. Just outside Zamarramala is the 12-sided 13th century Iglesia de la Vera Cruz -- This was my favorite church on this trip.
We continued to Maribel's viewpoint to see the Alcazar of Segovia.
We had excellent directions from the hotel and made our way to the center of the city via the traffic-restricted streets to the <b>Infanta Isabel Hotel</b>. (I had tried to reserve a room here months in advance and was told there were no rooms but when I checked one week out, we were able to get a room).
We parked our car in front of the hotel where they had valet parking. Our room was wonderful with a view of the square where they were setting up huge speakers...
We went first to the old cathedral (access through the new one which we visited in passing). Then down the hill to the alcazar. Due to the huge tourist groups and that fact that it was heavily rebuilt, we decided not to visit the interior. The views of the countryside were beautiful. We walked back up towards the old part of town, following a pre-planned route to see the tourist sites, then down to see the Aqueduct.
From here we visited the modern part of town, where they were setting up more speakers and visited the San Millan church. We then meandered the back streets until we saw a <u>huge staircase </u> and yes we walked back up (with the excess water from the aqueduct flowing down the handrails) to Plaza de San Martin. Here they were also setting up huge speakers....
We were a bit tired at this point so we had a drink and then went back to the hotel. It was almost time for our dinner but we were not hungry enough to go to Jose Maria as planned. Instead we went to a small bar and had wine and tapas. We ordered <b><font color="red">Fino </font></b>but got Vino! But it was good.
By this time the music had started and even though our room had 4-panes of glass, we could still feel the bass (not the words of the songs though). The music seems to have stopped around 3 am and we slept soundly. We took breakfast at the hotel and due to the late hour (10 am) and lack of waitstaff, our order for eggs was forgotten. After asking again, we received them. Even with the music and slow breakfast I would recommend this hotel.
Jul 15th, 2007, 08:38 AM
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Hi moxie, you are very welcome. I hope I gave you some good information....I am looking forward for the rest of your posting, I am always happy to hear from different points of view. Please tell us your alternative views...PS Glad you had a good time.
Jul 15th, 2007, 10:37 AM
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You did not post the days/month of your trip.
Turegano is a picturesque town which is in my visit list (as well as Pedraza).
Fino is not very popular in the north. If you add a “strange” pronunciation…
So bad about the music, I usually check local holidays/fairs to prevent and avoid this choosing a far hotel.
Awaiting the rest
Turegano is a picturesque town which is in my visit list (as well as Pedraza).
Fino is not very popular in the north. If you add a “strange” pronunciation…
So bad about the music, I usually check local holidays/fairs to prevent and avoid this choosing a far hotel.
Awaiting the rest
Jul 15th, 2007, 10:49 AM
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Yes you are right Josele -- I thought I was prepared but you will see the huge planning gap later 
<b>Segovia to Salamanca</b>
We drove around Avila (by accident) and then out to the "4 postes" viewing area (Drive out of town following signs towards Salamanca and the N 501 and towards the Hotel 4 Postes.) We had binoculars and really enjoyed the view. We would like to visit properly in the future.
We drove relatively straight to Salamanca passing through fields of poppys on the AV110 and found our hotel <b>NH Palacio de Castellanos </b>without any difficulty but the route is roundabout due to the one way streets.
We checked-in at around 3pm, they parked our car. Since it was Saturday night the rooms are quite expensive so I said yes to the small supplement for a superior room when I made the reservation. I was therefore quite surprised to find that our room faced the back courtyard/driveway.
I went back to reception and politely voiced my displeasure; a miracle occurred and I could have a room on the street in one hour. The new room was indeed superior and had a wonderful view of the street and San Esteban convent. (<i>Note </i>there are only 7 rooms with this view so it pays to check in early.)
We set out on our pre-planned walk and ended in the Plaza Mayor. Highlights along the way were the old cathedral (entrance through the new), the Patio de las Escuelas and the Cielo de Salamanca.
At the Plaza Mayor they were setting up big speakers too. We had a ice cream and strolled under the arcades then out to admire the sculptured faces between the ground and 1st floors of the place.
No shopping on the way back to the hotel since on the shops close at lunch on Saturday!?! We had a drink at the hotel and finally were able to get a glass of Fino -- not due to our improved Spanish though . The hotel menu looked great but a little heavy so we went back towards the Pl. Mayor to the restaurant <b>Ruta de la Plata</b>. Luckily we arrived early -- 20.30 and they took us without reservations. My DH had a lovely bean soup and John Dory which came with fries; I ordered prawns and garlic which were accompanied by nothing (I suspect a trend at this point). I had a dessert of chocolate mousse. Excellent professional service and very good food; though my prawns were a bit expensive (16&euro.
The hotel buffet breakfast was very good. We shocked the reception by asking about buses to the flea market (Sunday mornings). They were unable to help so we just used our maps and hoped for the best. We walked there in about 20-30 minutes and took a bus back. The number 8a, "RASTO" can be caught at the beginning of C San Pablo. We were looking for old knickknacks and found only a few stalls, mostly it was cheap and cheerful shoes, clothes and household items. It was really hot while we were there. I especially enjoyed the walk there through the modern part of the city.
We both really enjoyed Salamanca and hope to return.
<b>Segovia to Salamanca</b>
We drove around Avila (by accident) and then out to the "4 postes" viewing area (Drive out of town following signs towards Salamanca and the N 501 and towards the Hotel 4 Postes.) We had binoculars and really enjoyed the view. We would like to visit properly in the future.
We drove relatively straight to Salamanca passing through fields of poppys on the AV110 and found our hotel <b>NH Palacio de Castellanos </b>without any difficulty but the route is roundabout due to the one way streets.
We checked-in at around 3pm, they parked our car. Since it was Saturday night the rooms are quite expensive so I said yes to the small supplement for a superior room when I made the reservation. I was therefore quite surprised to find that our room faced the back courtyard/driveway.
I went back to reception and politely voiced my displeasure; a miracle occurred and I could have a room on the street in one hour. The new room was indeed superior and had a wonderful view of the street and San Esteban convent. (<i>Note </i>there are only 7 rooms with this view so it pays to check in early.)
We set out on our pre-planned walk and ended in the Plaza Mayor. Highlights along the way were the old cathedral (entrance through the new), the Patio de las Escuelas and the Cielo de Salamanca.
At the Plaza Mayor they were setting up big speakers too. We had a ice cream and strolled under the arcades then out to admire the sculptured faces between the ground and 1st floors of the place.
No shopping on the way back to the hotel since on the shops close at lunch on Saturday!?! We had a drink at the hotel and finally were able to get a glass of Fino -- not due to our improved Spanish though
. The hotel menu looked great but a little heavy so we went back towards the Pl. Mayor to the restaurant <b>Ruta de la Plata</b>. Luckily we arrived early -- 20.30 and they took us without reservations. My DH had a lovely bean soup and John Dory which came with fries; I ordered prawns and garlic which were accompanied by nothing (I suspect a trend at this point). I had a dessert of chocolate mousse. Excellent professional service and very good food; though my prawns were a bit expensive (16&euro.The hotel buffet breakfast was very good. We shocked the reception by asking about buses to the flea market (Sunday mornings). They were unable to help so we just used our maps and hoped for the best. We walked there in about 20-30 minutes and took a bus back. The number 8a, "RASTO" can be caught at the beginning of C San Pablo. We were looking for old knickknacks and found only a few stalls, mostly it was cheap and cheerful shoes, clothes and household items. It was really hot while we were there. I especially enjoyed the walk there through the modern part of the city.
We both really enjoyed Salamanca and hope to return.
Jul 15th, 2007, 10:58 AM
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Hi Moxie. I too am looking forward to more & enjoying the report. Unlike the USA, I think that in general the entrees do not come accompanied by anything unless it specified so in the menu. The exception is the menu del dia.
What day of the week were you in Pedraza?
What day of the week were you in Pedraza?
Jul 15th, 2007, 11:19 AM
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Hi Amsdon, I enjoyed your trip report! We were in Pedraza on a Friday for lunch. I'd believe you about the daily menu EXCEPT everything ordered by DH continued to get veggies (luckily he shares)...
<b>Salamanca to Gredos</b>
We picked up our car and loaded the bags which the hotel kindly stored for us during our flea market visit. Today was a day of mountains and driving.
Although it was recommended to drop La Alberca from the trip due to distances I could not bear to do so. We set off on SA 210 in the splendid sunshine towards Vecinos, Tamames to La Alberca. It was a gorgeous drive.
We lucked upon a parking spot just as we pulled up. The shops were all open in La Alberca with lots of people walking about. We walked around the village which reminded me of Japanese mountain villages with the moss and stone. The central place was quite picturesque and I could not resist having a drink and watching the little first communion children run about. It was similar to Pedraza but not quite as restored so I liked it better, but it is still very touristy.
The drive out of the village through the mountains made both of us a bit dizzy (and we had only drunk coffee and water at the place!). We continued on the SA 220 and saw houses with the roof tiles on the facades (protection from the snow and rain). The forests and views were lovely. We bypassed Béjar, continued on the AV100 and arrived at the <b>Parador de Gredos</b> at 16.00.
While I was checking in my DH had a fight for a parking spot in the lot -- amazing that this happened in such an isolated place with tons of free parking!
Being June, it was still very light and warm but we still put on sweaters and took the little trail behind the parador down to the pastures, fountain and wood refuge. It was an easy and enjoyable walk.
I love the Paradors and this one did not disappoint me. It reminded me of lodges in the forest in the US, they even had screens on the windows! We had dinner at the Parador and as usual it was very good. I had garlic and bread crumb soup, followed by cod confit which once again had nothing with it!?!
My DH had a variety of ham and sausages followed by venison (with potatoes and veggies). The wireless internet service was not available while we were there. It was a surprising stop for me since it was really isolated and in the forest. We enjoyed this break from cities.
<b>Salamanca to Gredos</b>
We picked up our car and loaded the bags which the hotel kindly stored for us during our flea market visit. Today was a day of mountains and driving.
Although it was recommended to drop La Alberca from the trip due to distances I could not bear to do so. We set off on SA 210 in the splendid sunshine towards Vecinos, Tamames to La Alberca. It was a gorgeous drive.
We lucked upon a parking spot just as we pulled up. The shops were all open in La Alberca with lots of people walking about. We walked around the village which reminded me of Japanese mountain villages with the moss and stone. The central place was quite picturesque and I could not resist having a drink and watching the little first communion children run about. It was similar to Pedraza but not quite as restored so I liked it better, but it is still very touristy.
The drive out of the village through the mountains made both of us a bit dizzy (and we had only drunk coffee and water at the place!). We continued on the SA 220 and saw houses with the roof tiles on the facades (protection from the snow and rain). The forests and views were lovely. We bypassed Béjar, continued on the AV100 and arrived at the <b>Parador de Gredos</b> at 16.00.
While I was checking in my DH had a fight for a parking spot in the lot -- amazing that this happened in such an isolated place with tons of free parking!
Being June, it was still very light and warm but we still put on sweaters and took the little trail behind the parador down to the pastures, fountain and wood refuge. It was an easy and enjoyable walk.
I love the Paradors and this one did not disappoint me. It reminded me of lodges in the forest in the US, they even had screens on the windows! We had dinner at the Parador and as usual it was very good. I had garlic and bread crumb soup, followed by cod confit which once again had nothing with it!?!
My DH had a variety of ham and sausages followed by venison (with potatoes and veggies). The wireless internet service was not available while we were there. It was a surprising stop for me since it was really isolated and in the forest. We enjoyed this break from cities.
(no issues with it just curious about'em). Also, may I ask how long on Trenhotel from Paris to Madrid and how expensive? Thanks.
Jul 15th, 2007, 12:11 PM
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I'm saving the bad bits til the end
Tren hotel was 400 r/T for 2; about 14 hours to Madrid, a bit less I think to Barcelona.
<b>Monday: Gredos to Guadalupe</b>
The buffet breakfast was as always wonderful. We usually cannot eat lunch after them. I was a bit worried about another mountain drive due to the experience leaving La Alberca but there is no choice here so we pressed onwards.
The contrast between the Gredos side of the mountain -- pine forests and the Verde side -- cacti and palm is striking. Again gorgeous scenery and almost no one on the roads. We took the AV941 to the N502. As we passed the <b>Puerto del Pico</b> we stopped to admire the view and the roman road which comes right up the side of the mountain -- spectacular!
In <b>Arenas de san Pedro </b>we stumbled across a old bridge which looked roman but we never found out if it was. The distances today will be greater than previously so I needed to be stern with my DH to keep him on the bigger roads.
We walked around the town in Valverde del la Vera, we stopped to admire the roman bridge which is just before Losar de la Vera (and the remains of a roman road too). The topiary was amusing in Losar de la Vera. We had not found any pimenton to buy yet but I decided it did not matter and we could get it at a tourist shop later.
We had planned to cut South at Jarandilla de la Vera but my DH insisted that we continue on the loop of road. We pressed on and by sheer luck found a pimenton factory that was open (it was lunchtime) in Jaraiz de la Vera. We bought all types, some cherry jam and beans. I was especially entranced in this area with the "lacy" barns. They layed the bricks with a 1/2 brick gap between each one so as the rows continued upwards it looked like lace (at least to me!) .
We then continued south on EX 392 to Navalmoral and EX 118. We stopped to admire the Roman ruins near the Embalse de Valdecanas. It was around 30°C and we were glad we had air conditioning in the car.
The approach to Guadalupe is very striking as the guide books say. we drove into town parked illegally and I dragged the suitcases up to the entrance of the Parador while I DH found parking.
The <b>Guadalupe Parador </b>is a bit of a maze and I think due to our special priced room we were off in the back. It was lovely and had a view on the Parador gardens and monastery. It was 16.00 so we ran to the Monastery to see if we could get in the last tour.
After a combination of very polite and bad Spanish, good French and excellent English, we were hustled to a tour in Spanish which had just started. I understood nothing, my DH a bit more. The first room had a large display of beautiful choir books. 2nd room had 3 el Grecos, a Goya and other gorgeous stuff. At some point we went into the church and saw the statue from afar and I'm sure the guide was saying interesting things. Then went went upstairs to the sacristry to see the 11 Zurbans, clotehs and jewels for the Madonna. Then the guide left us in the hands of a monk. We were then led into a very strange room with doll statues dressed as saints and enclosed in glass at the corners of the room. The monk talked for awhile and then opened the door to the virgin and turned her around. People then prayed and kissed a relic.
The tour then ended and we were free to wander in the muljar courtyard. Along the walls are paintings of all the miracles attributed to the Virgin of Guadalupe -- it was fascinating. We also entered the hospice and looked at the courtyard (this is now a hotel).
We then walked around the streets, found a tourist shop going out of business and I bought almost all of my souvenirs. We had drinks in the square and returned to the parador. I was disappointed to find that the pool was closed for the season (June and 30° seems like pool season to me!).
Then we had one of the<b> best dinners of the trip </b>-- and I got veggies! 1 normal menu and one Extremadura Menu (DH): I had cheese croquettes, then scallops with asparagus au gratin; Dh had cooked ham with salad and confit onions followed by grilled salted pork and veggies.
I had chestnut pudding which was frozen and decorated to look like a windmill, I felt sorry for my DH since he had no choice and was to receive "almond soup". His was superb: yellow pound cake with almond flavoured crème anglaise with just a hint of anise and sprinkled with sesame seeds -- scrumptious!
We finished our wine on the patio and retired into our gorgeous room to look at the stars over the monastery.
Tren hotel was 400 r/T for 2; about 14 hours to Madrid, a bit less I think to Barcelona.
<b>Monday: Gredos to Guadalupe</b>
The buffet breakfast was as always wonderful. We usually cannot eat lunch after them. I was a bit worried about another mountain drive due to the experience leaving La Alberca but there is no choice here so we pressed onwards.
The contrast between the Gredos side of the mountain -- pine forests and the Verde side -- cacti and palm is striking. Again gorgeous scenery and almost no one on the roads. We took the AV941 to the N502. As we passed the <b>Puerto del Pico</b> we stopped to admire the view and the roman road which comes right up the side of the mountain -- spectacular!
In <b>Arenas de san Pedro </b>we stumbled across a old bridge which looked roman but we never found out if it was. The distances today will be greater than previously so I needed to be stern with my DH to keep him on the bigger roads.
We walked around the town in Valverde del la Vera, we stopped to admire the roman bridge which is just before Losar de la Vera (and the remains of a roman road too). The topiary was amusing in Losar de la Vera. We had not found any pimenton to buy yet but I decided it did not matter and we could get it at a tourist shop later.
We had planned to cut South at Jarandilla de la Vera but my DH insisted that we continue on the loop of road. We pressed on and by sheer luck found a pimenton factory that was open (it was lunchtime) in Jaraiz de la Vera. We bought all types, some cherry jam and beans. I was especially entranced in this area with the "lacy" barns. They layed the bricks with a 1/2 brick gap between each one so as the rows continued upwards it looked like lace (at least to me!) .
We then continued south on EX 392 to Navalmoral and EX 118. We stopped to admire the Roman ruins near the Embalse de Valdecanas. It was around 30°C and we were glad we had air conditioning in the car.
The approach to Guadalupe is very striking as the guide books say. we drove into town parked illegally and I dragged the suitcases up to the entrance of the Parador while I DH found parking.
The <b>Guadalupe Parador </b>is a bit of a maze and I think due to our special priced room we were off in the back. It was lovely and had a view on the Parador gardens and monastery. It was 16.00 so we ran to the Monastery to see if we could get in the last tour.
After a combination of very polite and bad Spanish, good French and excellent English, we were hustled to a tour in Spanish which had just started. I understood nothing, my DH a bit more. The first room had a large display of beautiful choir books. 2nd room had 3 el Grecos, a Goya and other gorgeous stuff. At some point we went into the church and saw the statue from afar and I'm sure the guide was saying interesting things. Then went went upstairs to the sacristry to see the 11 Zurbans, clotehs and jewels for the Madonna. Then the guide left us in the hands of a monk. We were then led into a very strange room with doll statues dressed as saints and enclosed in glass at the corners of the room. The monk talked for awhile and then opened the door to the virgin and turned her around. People then prayed and kissed a relic.
The tour then ended and we were free to wander in the muljar courtyard. Along the walls are paintings of all the miracles attributed to the Virgin of Guadalupe -- it was fascinating. We also entered the hospice and looked at the courtyard (this is now a hotel).
We then walked around the streets, found a tourist shop going out of business and I bought almost all of my souvenirs. We had drinks in the square and returned to the parador. I was disappointed to find that the pool was closed for the season (June and 30° seems like pool season to me!).
Then we had one of the<b> best dinners of the trip </b>-- and I got veggies! 1 normal menu and one Extremadura Menu (DH): I had cheese croquettes, then scallops with asparagus au gratin; Dh had cooked ham with salad and confit onions followed by grilled salted pork and veggies.
I had chestnut pudding which was frozen and decorated to look like a windmill, I felt sorry for my DH since he had no choice and was to receive "almond soup". His was superb: yellow pound cake with almond flavoured crème anglaise with just a hint of anise and sprinkled with sesame seeds -- scrumptious!
We finished our wine on the patio and retired into our gorgeous room to look at the stars over the monastery.
Jul 15th, 2007, 12:36 PM
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Yum! Keep going please...
BTW yes I do agree Pedraza is "restored". It is not a town where too many of the "local" working people actually live. I know most we met lived nearby. But there is a brick home for sale there near the castle if one is intersted.....I still have the tel #...
BTW yes I do agree Pedraza is "restored". It is not a town where too many of the "local" working people actually live. I know most we met lived nearby. But there is a brick home for sale there near the castle if one is intersted.....I still have the tel #...
Jul 15th, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Hi Moxie I am reading, and reading and learning for our next trip.BTW where was one of your best dinners?, was it at the Parador in guadalupe?, ...if so, it is amazing because
some ten years ago we had a DELICIOUS dinner at the Parador in Guadalupe. Could it be the same chef/?
cook or just luck!
I agree with you hotels when for some reason do not have available the nice room you had booked ALWAYS star putting the first arrival into the worst one....to see what happens. You did well.!
some ten years ago we had a DELICIOUS dinner at the Parador in Guadalupe. Could it be the same chef/?
cook or just luck!
I agree with you hotels when for some reason do not have available the nice room you had booked ALWAYS star putting the first arrival into the worst one....to see what happens. You did well.!
Jul 15th, 2007, 01:44 PM
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La Alberca is beautiful, already spoiled, but not much. I recommend staying here as you can visit surrounding towns that have changed very little. The Arenas de San Pedro bridge is Roman, of course. If you looke closely you’ll see it is the same dsign as the Losar one. The Jarandilla bridge is off-the path, but it is similar. I painted it, but it is not in my website. And yes, the topiary is amazing, something you don’t expect.
I suppose that you enjoyed the Humilladero approaching to Guadalupe. From here the view is impressive. The Sacristia and Antesacristía (Vestry: the place where the priests get dressed and prepare for mass, and where the altar linens are kept) is where the 11 zurbarans are; the one in the center, “Apoteosis de San Jeronimo” is called the Pearl of Zurbaran, and is one of his finests works. In front of it hangs the Lamp of Lepanto, the former lamp of the Pasha’s galley at the battle of Lepanto, taken as booty and deposited there. You can see the holes by the musket balls.
The dolls you mention: when women entered the convents as novices, they used to bring one of these as part of the dowry. (I don’t know if this is the case, but it is in other convents I have visited). They are really beautiful pieces, and are images of the Child Jesus. During our visit, we were lucky to go up to the shrine and kiss the Image of the Virgin.
We had lunch at the Parador (great as usual) and dined in the square, watching the sunset over the Monastery walls.
I suppose that you enjoyed the Humilladero approaching to Guadalupe. From here the view is impressive. The Sacristia and Antesacristía (Vestry: the place where the priests get dressed and prepare for mass, and where the altar linens are kept) is where the 11 zurbarans are; the one in the center, “Apoteosis de San Jeronimo” is called the Pearl of Zurbaran, and is one of his finests works. In front of it hangs the Lamp of Lepanto, the former lamp of the Pasha’s galley at the battle of Lepanto, taken as booty and deposited there. You can see the holes by the musket balls.
The dolls you mention: when women entered the convents as novices, they used to bring one of these as part of the dowry. (I don’t know if this is the case, but it is in other convents I have visited). They are really beautiful pieces, and are images of the Child Jesus. During our visit, we were lucky to go up to the shrine and kiss the Image of the Virgin.
We had lunch at the Parador (great as usual) and dined in the square, watching the sunset over the Monastery walls.
Jul 21st, 2007, 01:38 AM
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<b>Tuesday: Guadalupe to Mérida
Guadalupe to Trujillo </b>
We took the lovely mountain road (C401 to C524) to Trujillo. The streets are narrow and one way in Trujillo and we were very lucky to find on the street parking before we arrived at the Public Parking lot (ie following signs). We walked around the Plaza Mayor following a preplanned route so we could knew what we were seeing. I was surprised at the size of the Pl Mayor -- I thought it would be bigger. The perspective was ruined by a big inflatable "extremadura tourist tent" in the middle of the Plaza.
We knocked at the door of the Placio de los Duques de San Carlos to see the patio and were quite pleased that the nuns were selling cookies. Unfortunately I was involved in cookie negotiation so I did not see much of the courtyard but my DH said it was lovely. The cookies, which we saved until we were home, were scrumptious.
We pressed on to Caceres but knew that we were not hungry enough to keep our lunch reservation at Atrio. Caceres is VERY hilly and difficult to find parking. We were lucky to park at the <b>Parking Obisbo Grazale</b> which ended up being near the old part of town. My DH can now recognise World Heritage cities at a glance We arrived at 13.45 and all the shops, museums and sites were already closed for lunch even though official closing was listed as 14.30. We walked around and hiked up the streets in the old section of town while keeping in the shade of the buildings. The old part of town was a bit over-restored. Since we were not hungry and only restaurants were opened we left and decided to try our luck at a Carrefour to get some of our usual goodies. We stocked up on Sherry and headed off for Mérida.
<b>Wednesday: Mérida to Sevilla</b>
We took the little roads into town so we could stop at the <b>Proserpina reservoir (Roman) </b>on our way. Our first stop was to check in at the Parador. This one was poorly marked, which allowed us to catch numerous views of bits of Roman aqueduct scattered round town -- but eventually we found the back entrance (perfect) and checked in at 17.30. Time was tight so we passed up the lovely looking pool which was open, took one of their excellent maps with all the Roman ruins indicated and set off to make it to the Roman theatre before it closed at 18.30. It was very hot but we walked in the shade. We bought an <b>"Entrada Conjuta"</b> for 10€ each which allows entry to the many of the sites of Mérida ; the ticket also includes a wonderful booklet. Highly recommend this ticket if only for the booklet.
We were able to see the theatre, amphitheatre and roman house ruins before they closed for the evening. It was very hot and DH was sunburned so we made a stop at a bar in front of the Roman museum. I had my first <font color="yellow"><b>Limon Granita </b></font>- and I was hooked! We then went to the museum (late night opening) which is as wonderful as everyone says it is. The mosaics are phenomenal! We stayed for 2 hours and they kicked us out at 9pm. Unfortunately the book store closed at 18.00 so I made plans to return the next day.
It was still light outside and my DH would not return to the same bar for another granita so we wove our way through town back to the Parador. On the way we saw the municipal forum, Diana's temple, random ruins, Trajan's arch. We made a note to return to the visogoth museum the next day.
For once we were on the Spanish schedule for dinner! We rushed up to our room, showered and returned to the bar for a drink and then on to dinner before they closed at 23.00. Again we were not disappointed: we both took a menu and I had a lovely aspargus tarte (actually a flan) followed by grilled tuna with garlic mayo and veggies; DH had tomato soup (a bowl of minced tomatoes, garlic and a poached egg, the waiter then poured chicken stock on top at the table), steak with fig pickles and mushrooms. For dessert I had "convent tarte" which had a clear shredded candied substance - ? pumpkin and DH had his favourite Tocillio with crème anglaise. We tottered off to bed and set the alarm.
We checked out at 11am, leaving our bags with reception and our car in the cool underground garage (we never made it to the pool!). The Visigoth museum was free and quite small but very interesting. We then walked to the Casa de mitres (gorgeous mosaics) ; this took longer than I thought (about 20 minutes) but I think it was only due to the heat and the fact that we took the tourist route to see the roman bridge and alcazar (amazing well and views) on our way.
We were close to the Museum so we walked there to check out the bookstore. They let me in for free while DH waited across the street at the bar. I was looking for a book on the Mérida mosaics but they did not have any! I crossed the street and had my last (for this trip) limon granita. We returned to the Parador, and headed out to Sevilla.
<b>We both loved Mérida. </b> Although it is also a world heritage city, it does not have "that look". We are already planning our return - maybe a week with day trips to Careres, Tujillo and Zafra. I am religiously following the Parador specials Our Combination Entrance ticket is good until all the sites have been visited!
It was too late to visit Zafra: I wanted to take the big road and go direct to Sevilla, my DH wanted to take the parallel smaller road. It was a long and fraught trip to Sevilla. We always have huge arguments driving into Sevilla. Each time I say I'll never do it again -- this time was no different and we finally arrived in front of hotel at 16.00
Guadalupe to Trujillo </b>
We took the lovely mountain road (C401 to C524) to Trujillo. The streets are narrow and one way in Trujillo and we were very lucky to find on the street parking before we arrived at the Public Parking lot (ie following signs). We walked around the Plaza Mayor following a preplanned route so we could knew what we were seeing. I was surprised at the size of the Pl Mayor -- I thought it would be bigger. The perspective was ruined by a big inflatable "extremadura tourist tent" in the middle of the Plaza.
We knocked at the door of the Placio de los Duques de San Carlos to see the patio and were quite pleased that the nuns were selling cookies. Unfortunately I was involved in cookie negotiation so I did not see much of the courtyard but my DH said it was lovely. The cookies, which we saved until we were home, were scrumptious.
We pressed on to Caceres but knew that we were not hungry enough to keep our lunch reservation at Atrio. Caceres is VERY hilly and difficult to find parking. We were lucky to park at the <b>Parking Obisbo Grazale</b> which ended up being near the old part of town. My DH can now recognise World Heritage cities at a glance
We arrived at 13.45 and all the shops, museums and sites were already closed for lunch even though official closing was listed as 14.30. We walked around and hiked up the streets in the old section of town while keeping in the shade of the buildings. The old part of town was a bit over-restored. Since we were not hungry and only restaurants were opened we left and decided to try our luck at a Carrefour to get some of our usual goodies. We stocked up on Sherry and headed off for Mérida.<b>Wednesday: Mérida to Sevilla</b>
We took the little roads into town so we could stop at the <b>Proserpina reservoir (Roman) </b>on our way. Our first stop was to check in at the Parador. This one was poorly marked, which allowed us to catch numerous views of bits of Roman aqueduct scattered round town -- but eventually we found the back entrance (perfect) and checked in at 17.30. Time was tight so we passed up the lovely looking pool which was open, took one of their excellent maps with all the Roman ruins indicated and set off to make it to the Roman theatre before it closed at 18.30. It was very hot but we walked in the shade. We bought an <b>"Entrada Conjuta"</b> for 10€ each which allows entry to the many of the sites of Mérida ; the ticket also includes a wonderful booklet. Highly recommend this ticket if only for the booklet.
We were able to see the theatre, amphitheatre and roman house ruins before they closed for the evening. It was very hot and DH was sunburned so we made a stop at a bar in front of the Roman museum. I had my first <font color="yellow"><b>Limon Granita </b></font>- and I was hooked! We then went to the museum (late night opening) which is as wonderful as everyone says it is. The mosaics are phenomenal! We stayed for 2 hours and they kicked us out at 9pm. Unfortunately the book store closed at 18.00 so I made plans to return the next day.
It was still light outside and my DH would not return to the same bar for another granita so we wove our way through town back to the Parador. On the way we saw the municipal forum, Diana's temple, random ruins, Trajan's arch. We made a note to return to the visogoth museum the next day.
For once we were on the Spanish schedule for dinner! We rushed up to our room, showered and returned to the bar for a drink and then on to dinner before they closed at 23.00. Again we were not disappointed: we both took a menu and I had a lovely aspargus tarte (actually a flan) followed by grilled tuna with garlic mayo and veggies; DH had tomato soup (a bowl of minced tomatoes, garlic and a poached egg, the waiter then poured chicken stock on top at the table), steak with fig pickles and mushrooms. For dessert I had "convent tarte" which had a clear shredded candied substance - ? pumpkin and DH had his favourite Tocillio with crème anglaise. We tottered off to bed and set the alarm.
We checked out at 11am, leaving our bags with reception and our car in the cool underground garage (we never made it to the pool!). The Visigoth museum was free and quite small but very interesting. We then walked to the Casa de mitres (gorgeous mosaics) ; this took longer than I thought (about 20 minutes) but I think it was only due to the heat and the fact that we took the tourist route to see the roman bridge and alcazar (amazing well and views) on our way.
We were close to the Museum so we walked there to check out the bookstore. They let me in for free while DH waited across the street at the bar. I was looking for a book on the Mérida mosaics but they did not have any! I crossed the street and had my last (for this trip) limon granita. We returned to the Parador, and headed out to Sevilla.
<b>We both loved Mérida. </b> Although it is also a world heritage city, it does not have "that look". We are already planning our return - maybe a week with day trips to Careres, Tujillo and Zafra. I am religiously following the Parador specials
Our Combination Entrance ticket is good until all the sites have been visited!It was too late to visit Zafra: I wanted to take the big road and go direct to Sevilla, my DH wanted to take the parallel smaller road. It was a long and fraught trip to Sevilla. We always have huge arguments driving into Sevilla. Each time I say I'll never do it again -- this time was no different and we finally arrived in front of hotel at 16.00
Jul 21st, 2007, 01:41 AM
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<b>Tuesday: Guadalupe to Mérida
Guadalupe to Trujillo </b>
We took the lovely mountain road (C401 to C524) to Trujillo. The streets are narrow and one way in Trujillo and we were very lucky to find on the street parking before we arrived at the Public Parking lot (ie following signs). We walked around the Plaza Mayor following a preplanned route so we could knew what we were seeing. I was surprised at the size of the Pl Mayor -- I thought it would be bigger. The perspective was ruined by a big inflatable "extremadura tourist tent" in the middle of the Plaza.
We knocked at the door of the Placio de los Duques de San Carlos to see the patio and were quite pleased that the nuns were selling cookies. Unfortunately I was involved in cookie negotiation so I did not see much of the courtyard but my DH said it was lovely. The cookies, which we saved until we were home, were scrumptious.
We pressed on to Caceres but knew that we were not hungry enough to keep our lunch reservation at Atrio. Caceres is VERY hilly and difficult to find parking. We were lucky to park at the <b>Parking Obisbo Grazale</b> which ended up being near the old part of town. My DH can now recognise World Heritage cities at a glance We arrived at 13.45 and all the shops, museums and sites were already closed for lunch even though official closing was listed as 14.30. We walked around and hiked up the streets in the old section of town while keeping in the shade of the buildings. The old part of town was a bit over-restored. Since we were not hungry and only restaurants were opened we left and decided to try our luck at a Carrefour to get some of our usual goodies. We stocked up on Sherry and headed off for Mérida.
<b>Mérida</b>
We took the little roads into town so we could stop at the <b>Proserpina reservoir (Roman) </b>on our way. Our first stop was to check in at the Parador. This one was poorly marked, which allowed us to catch numerous views of bits of Roman aqueduct scattered round town -- but eventually we found the back entrance (perfect) and checked in at 17.30. Time was tight so we passed up the lovely looking pool which was open, took one of their excellent maps with all the Roman ruins indicated and set off to make it to the Roman theatre before it closed at 18.30. It was very hot but we walked in the shade. We bought an <b>"Entrada Conjuta"</b> for 10€ each which allows entry to the many of the sites of Mérida ; the ticket also includes a wonderful booklet. Highly recommend this ticket if only for the booklet.
We were able to see the theatre, amphitheatre and roman house ruins before they closed for the evening. It was very hot and DH was sunburned so we made a stop at a bar in front of the Roman museum. I had my first <font color="yellow"><b>Limon Granita </b></font>- and I was hooked! We then went to the museum (late night opening) which is as wonderful as everyone says it is. The mosaics are phenomenal! We stayed for 2 hours and they kicked us out at 9pm. Unfortunately the book store closed at 18.00 so I made plans to return the next day.
It was still light outside and my DH would not return to the same bar for another granita so we wove our way through town back to the Parador. On the way we saw the municipal forum, Diana's temple, random ruins, Trajan's arch. We made a note to return to the visogoth museum the next day.
For once we were on the Spanish schedule for dinner! We rushed up to our room, showered and returned to the bar for a drink and then on to dinner before they closed at 23.00. Again we were not disappointed: we both took a menu and I had a lovely aspargus tarte (actually a flan) followed by grilled tuna with garlic mayo and veggies; DH had tomato soup (a bowl of minced tomatoes, garlic and a poached egg, the waiter then poured chicken stock on top at the table), steak with fig pickles and mushrooms. For dessert I had "convent tarte" which had a clear shredded candied substance - ? pumpkin and DH had his favourite Tocillio with crème anglaise. We tottered off to bed and set the alarm.
<b>Wednesday: Mérida to Sevilla</b>
We checked out at 11am, leaving our bags with reception and our car in the cool underground garage (we never made it to the pool!). The Visigoth museum was free and quite small but very interesting. We then walked to the Casa de mitres (gorgeous mosaics) ; this took longer than I thought (about 20 minutes) but I think it was only due to the heat and the fact that we took the tourist route to see the roman bridge and alcazar (amazing well and views) on our way.
We were close to the Museum so we walked there to check out the bookstore. They let me in for free while DH waited across the street at the bar. I was looking for a book on the Mérida mosaics but they did not have any! I crossed the street and had my last (for this trip) limon granita. We returned to the Parador, and headed out to Sevilla.
<b>We both loved Mérida. </b> Although it is also a world heritage city, it does not have "that look". We are already planning our return - maybe a week with day trips to Careres, Tujillo and Zafra. I am religiously following the Parador specials Our Combination Entrance ticket is good until all the sites have been visited!
It was too late to visit Zafra: I wanted to take the big road and go direct to Sevilla, my DH wanted to take the parallel smaller road. It was a long and fraught trip to Sevilla. We always have huge arguments driving into Sevilla. Each time I say I'll never do it again -- this time was no different and we finally arrived in front of hotel at 16.00
Guadalupe to Trujillo </b>
We took the lovely mountain road (C401 to C524) to Trujillo. The streets are narrow and one way in Trujillo and we were very lucky to find on the street parking before we arrived at the Public Parking lot (ie following signs). We walked around the Plaza Mayor following a preplanned route so we could knew what we were seeing. I was surprised at the size of the Pl Mayor -- I thought it would be bigger. The perspective was ruined by a big inflatable "extremadura tourist tent" in the middle of the Plaza.
We knocked at the door of the Placio de los Duques de San Carlos to see the patio and were quite pleased that the nuns were selling cookies. Unfortunately I was involved in cookie negotiation so I did not see much of the courtyard but my DH said it was lovely. The cookies, which we saved until we were home, were scrumptious.
We pressed on to Caceres but knew that we were not hungry enough to keep our lunch reservation at Atrio. Caceres is VERY hilly and difficult to find parking. We were lucky to park at the <b>Parking Obisbo Grazale</b> which ended up being near the old part of town. My DH can now recognise World Heritage cities at a glance
We arrived at 13.45 and all the shops, museums and sites were already closed for lunch even though official closing was listed as 14.30. We walked around and hiked up the streets in the old section of town while keeping in the shade of the buildings. The old part of town was a bit over-restored. Since we were not hungry and only restaurants were opened we left and decided to try our luck at a Carrefour to get some of our usual goodies. We stocked up on Sherry and headed off for Mérida.<b>Mérida</b>
We took the little roads into town so we could stop at the <b>Proserpina reservoir (Roman) </b>on our way. Our first stop was to check in at the Parador. This one was poorly marked, which allowed us to catch numerous views of bits of Roman aqueduct scattered round town -- but eventually we found the back entrance (perfect) and checked in at 17.30. Time was tight so we passed up the lovely looking pool which was open, took one of their excellent maps with all the Roman ruins indicated and set off to make it to the Roman theatre before it closed at 18.30. It was very hot but we walked in the shade. We bought an <b>"Entrada Conjuta"</b> for 10€ each which allows entry to the many of the sites of Mérida ; the ticket also includes a wonderful booklet. Highly recommend this ticket if only for the booklet.
We were able to see the theatre, amphitheatre and roman house ruins before they closed for the evening. It was very hot and DH was sunburned so we made a stop at a bar in front of the Roman museum. I had my first <font color="yellow"><b>Limon Granita </b></font>- and I was hooked! We then went to the museum (late night opening) which is as wonderful as everyone says it is. The mosaics are phenomenal! We stayed for 2 hours and they kicked us out at 9pm. Unfortunately the book store closed at 18.00 so I made plans to return the next day.
It was still light outside and my DH would not return to the same bar for another granita so we wove our way through town back to the Parador. On the way we saw the municipal forum, Diana's temple, random ruins, Trajan's arch. We made a note to return to the visogoth museum the next day.
For once we were on the Spanish schedule for dinner! We rushed up to our room, showered and returned to the bar for a drink and then on to dinner before they closed at 23.00. Again we were not disappointed: we both took a menu and I had a lovely aspargus tarte (actually a flan) followed by grilled tuna with garlic mayo and veggies; DH had tomato soup (a bowl of minced tomatoes, garlic and a poached egg, the waiter then poured chicken stock on top at the table), steak with fig pickles and mushrooms. For dessert I had "convent tarte" which had a clear shredded candied substance - ? pumpkin and DH had his favourite Tocillio with crème anglaise. We tottered off to bed and set the alarm.
<b>Wednesday: Mérida to Sevilla</b>
We checked out at 11am, leaving our bags with reception and our car in the cool underground garage (we never made it to the pool!). The Visigoth museum was free and quite small but very interesting. We then walked to the Casa de mitres (gorgeous mosaics) ; this took longer than I thought (about 20 minutes) but I think it was only due to the heat and the fact that we took the tourist route to see the roman bridge and alcazar (amazing well and views) on our way.
We were close to the Museum so we walked there to check out the bookstore. They let me in for free while DH waited across the street at the bar. I was looking for a book on the Mérida mosaics but they did not have any! I crossed the street and had my last (for this trip) limon granita. We returned to the Parador, and headed out to Sevilla.
<b>We both loved Mérida. </b> Although it is also a world heritage city, it does not have "that look". We are already planning our return - maybe a week with day trips to Careres, Tujillo and Zafra. I am religiously following the Parador specials
Our Combination Entrance ticket is good until all the sites have been visited!It was too late to visit Zafra: I wanted to take the big road and go direct to Sevilla, my DH wanted to take the parallel smaller road. It was a long and fraught trip to Sevilla. We always have huge arguments driving into Sevilla. Each time I say I'll never do it again -- this time was no different and we finally arrived in front of hotel at 16.00
Jul 21st, 2007, 03:03 AM
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Sorry about the double post! I always forget that you cannot use the back button here!
<b>Wednesday, Thursday and Friday nights: Sevilla</b>
So it's 4pm, 30°C and after a unplanned car tour of Sevilla, we arrive in front of the street of our hotel <b>Las Casas de la Judería</b>. Of course there is no place to pull over let alone park and unlike the hotel said, there are no hotel employees at the entrance on the street to help. I forced DH to pull into a taxi stand while I ran into the hotel to find the parking lot.
I had reserved months in advance and was assured that they had parking. I waited patiently for my turn at reception only to be told that yes I could have a room, although not one of the 2 I requested and no there was no parking, the lot was full! Not a good start...
I knew where the municipal lot was located since we had used it during a previous visit to Seville while staying at the Amadeus. I then asked if someone could help me bring the bags in while the car was still near by. No, they had no one to help at that time. At this point, if I was in a country where I spoke the language I would have left and found another hotel. But I was in Spain so I returned to the car to find DH being pushed out of the taxi stand by a taxi... We went to the municipal car park and schlepped our bags to the hotel.
We got our room key and was informed that not only the room but the hotel was non smoking, we went up to our room. The room was ok, in a building close to the main one and had a view on the dining courtyard. The air conditioning was on but the room was still warm. The air conditioning never did really work 100%. The room also had lots of tiny little ants: by the bathroom window and also at the entrance to the room.
<b>I hate this hotel </b> for the lies while reserving (parking and smoking), the lack of general information given/posted and the state of the room. For 180€ night I think one can do better. We did not take breakfast while there, but crossed the street and had it on the sidewalk at one of the bars. Very good selection at half the price. The hotel piano bar was quite nice with very pleasant staff. We did not dine there or use the pool.
This was our 3rd visit to Seville and our plans were very loose: mainly walking around. I knew that Thursday was Corpus Cristi but for some reason during my internet searches I did not come across the celebrations in Seville. Afterwards I found this wonderful site: http://www.sevillaclick.com/sevilla/...calendario.htm
We decided to give the flea market "les jeuves" a miss since we were tired and I wasn't sure it was still around. Does it still exist? We also missed the procession on Thursday morning, but did see all the cedar and thyme branches and melted wax on the street as well as the decorated balconies and streets... Since this was a high holiday all the shops were closed on Thursday as well as our favorite bar...
<b>Tourist visits: </b> We visited the Alcazar for the 3rd time and still found it lovely and interesting. We visited the Casa Pilates for the first time. One must go on a guided tour - it was very interesting. We did lots of strolling through the neighbourhoods.
<b>Shopping:</b> After seeing them all over Spain, I finally was able to get my camper sandals on Friday. I always try to get convent cookies since they are great for gifts and very tasty for us too. The shop I found is on the left-hand side (if you start at the river) of Av Constitiuon (I think N°24). It is not on the street but in a courtyard, sometimes there is a signboard on the street advertising it. They have short hours and long lunches. Jabon Iberico: at a bar called Casa Ruiz.
<b>Restaurants: La Judería</b> (Santa Cruz C/ Cano y cueto, 13A): We love this restaurant and always plan a visit -- We have never been disappointed. This time I tried the aubergine with honey for a starter -- it was wonderful!
<b>Corral del Agua</b> (C/ Callejón del Agua, 6), lovely setting and great ajoblanco; I ordered Sole which entered up being swordfish which was even better for me. Reservations needed.
Tapas at various bars: wonderful ham at <b>Casa Ruiz</b>.
<b>Saturday: </b>
We happily checked out of the hotel: 2 trips to the garage to load our car -- no surprise that no one offered to help
Parking was 16.50/night. We still love Seville and resolve that next time we will stay again at the HOTEL ALFONSO XIII. Getting out of Seville is always very easy; next stop <b>Ronda</b>.
<i>I'm still amazed that I did not find out about the Corpus Cristi celebrations in Seville while doing my research for this trip...</i>
<b>Wednesday, Thursday and Friday nights: Sevilla</b>
So it's 4pm, 30°C and after a unplanned car tour of Sevilla, we arrive in front of the street of our hotel <b>Las Casas de la Judería</b>. Of course there is no place to pull over let alone park and unlike the hotel said, there are no hotel employees at the entrance on the street to help. I forced DH to pull into a taxi stand while I ran into the hotel to find the parking lot.
I had reserved months in advance and was assured that they had parking. I waited patiently for my turn at reception only to be told that yes I could have a room, although not one of the 2 I requested and no there was no parking, the lot was full! Not a good start...
I knew where the municipal lot was located since we had used it during a previous visit to Seville while staying at the Amadeus. I then asked if someone could help me bring the bags in while the car was still near by. No, they had no one to help at that time. At this point, if I was in a country where I spoke the language I would have left and found another hotel. But I was in Spain so I returned to the car to find DH being pushed out of the taxi stand by a taxi... We went to the municipal car park and schlepped our bags to the hotel.
We got our room key and was informed that not only the room but the hotel was non smoking, we went up to our room. The room was ok, in a building close to the main one and had a view on the dining courtyard. The air conditioning was on but the room was still warm. The air conditioning never did really work 100%. The room also had lots of tiny little ants: by the bathroom window and also at the entrance to the room.
<b>I hate this hotel </b> for the lies while reserving (parking and smoking), the lack of general information given/posted and the state of the room. For 180€ night I think one can do better. We did not take breakfast while there, but crossed the street and had it on the sidewalk at one of the bars. Very good selection at half the price. The hotel piano bar was quite nice with very pleasant staff. We did not dine there or use the pool.
This was our 3rd visit to Seville and our plans were very loose: mainly walking around. I knew that Thursday was Corpus Cristi but for some reason during my internet searches I did not come across the celebrations in Seville. Afterwards I found this wonderful site: http://www.sevillaclick.com/sevilla/...calendario.htm
We decided to give the flea market "les jeuves" a miss since we were tired and I wasn't sure it was still around. Does it still exist? We also missed the procession on Thursday morning, but did see all the cedar and thyme branches and melted wax on the street as well as the decorated balconies and streets... Since this was a high holiday all the shops were closed on Thursday as well as our favorite bar...
<b>Tourist visits: </b> We visited the Alcazar for the 3rd time and still found it lovely and interesting. We visited the Casa Pilates for the first time. One must go on a guided tour - it was very interesting. We did lots of strolling through the neighbourhoods.
<b>Shopping:</b> After seeing them all over Spain, I finally was able to get my camper sandals on Friday. I always try to get convent cookies since they are great for gifts and very tasty for us too. The shop I found is on the left-hand side (if you start at the river) of Av Constitiuon (I think N°24). It is not on the street but in a courtyard, sometimes there is a signboard on the street advertising it. They have short hours and long lunches. Jabon Iberico: at a bar called Casa Ruiz.
<b>Restaurants: La Judería</b> (Santa Cruz C/ Cano y cueto, 13A): We love this restaurant and always plan a visit -- We have never been disappointed. This time I tried the aubergine with honey for a starter -- it was wonderful!
<b>Corral del Agua</b> (C/ Callejón del Agua, 6), lovely setting and great ajoblanco; I ordered Sole which entered up being swordfish which was even better for me. Reservations needed.
Tapas at various bars: wonderful ham at <b>Casa Ruiz</b>.
<b>Saturday: </b>
We happily checked out of the hotel: 2 trips to the garage to load our car -- no surprise that no one offered to help
Parking was 16.50/night. We still love Seville and resolve that next time we will stay again at the HOTEL ALFONSO XIII. Getting out of Seville is always very easy; next stop <b>Ronda</b>.
<i>I'm still amazed that I did not find out about the Corpus Cristi celebrations in Seville while doing my research for this trip...</i>
