Tripgirl's Trip Report: Capri, Sorre to and Amalfi Coast with friends
May 15th, 2006, 03:54 AM
#22
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more on the hotel..
The staff are very nice and there seemed to be someone always at the desk. At night when you want to drink in the bar late, note that the bartender is just around, not actually standing behind a bar.
Since it was not high season when we went, DH and I were actually the only ones in addition to lovely British couple we met in the bar. Our friends did not stay up as late as we did.
Really a shame, because the bar area is really beautiful. We did however come down for drinks before dinner and the bar seemed more lively then. They have a pianist playing in the 7pm hour as well.
The hotel also has a small, and I mean small gym. Just a treadmill ( but a good one) and a nautilus machine in one tiny room.
There is a spa as well and one of my friends got a few beauty treatments.
And for us having that huge terrace was a plus. On each trip, DH and I are given a patio ( if appropriate to the hotel) so we can invite the group for before dinner drinks on one of the nights.
This was our best patio yet. On Sunday May 7th the day we arrived, at 7;30pm we had everyone up for lots of wine. One of my friends commented that he felt he was in a movie; the setting was so spectacular; the sun was setting and deep mauve and red hues colored the sky, with Mt. Vesuvius lurking mysteriously in the background. The British couple we met later that night in the bar, commented that they could see our little party from down below and it looked like we were in a Conde Nast photo shoot!
I think overall what is the best about this hotel is its location and views and as mentioned above we love the modern combined with the historic hotel. Would stay there again in a heartbeat.
next up..DINING
The staff are very nice and there seemed to be someone always at the desk. At night when you want to drink in the bar late, note that the bartender is just around, not actually standing behind a bar.
Since it was not high season when we went, DH and I were actually the only ones in addition to lovely British couple we met in the bar. Our friends did not stay up as late as we did.
Really a shame, because the bar area is really beautiful. We did however come down for drinks before dinner and the bar seemed more lively then. They have a pianist playing in the 7pm hour as well.
The hotel also has a small, and I mean small gym. Just a treadmill ( but a good one) and a nautilus machine in one tiny room.
There is a spa as well and one of my friends got a few beauty treatments.
And for us having that huge terrace was a plus. On each trip, DH and I are given a patio ( if appropriate to the hotel) so we can invite the group for before dinner drinks on one of the nights.
This was our best patio yet. On Sunday May 7th the day we arrived, at 7;30pm we had everyone up for lots of wine. One of my friends commented that he felt he was in a movie; the setting was so spectacular; the sun was setting and deep mauve and red hues colored the sky, with Mt. Vesuvius lurking mysteriously in the background. The British couple we met later that night in the bar, commented that they could see our little party from down below and it looked like we were in a Conde Nast photo shoot!
I think overall what is the best about this hotel is its location and views and as mentioned above we love the modern combined with the historic hotel. Would stay there again in a heartbeat.
next up..DINING
May 15th, 2006, 09:16 AM
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DINING IN SORRENTO AND ENVIRONS
Sunday May 7th: As our first meal in Sorrento, I had prearranged a private lunch on the terrace bar at the hotel for the group. As we first came upon the hotel, we passed by our lunch spot as they were all set up for us. We had two lovely round tables set for us , overlooking the Bay of Naples. The menu was delicious:
Ravioli Caprese with smoked cheese
Local white grilled fish with grilled vegetables
Green Salad
and then a light cake topped with wild strawberries and vanilla gelato.
If you have never had wild strawberries, these are teeny tiny strawberries that pop flavor in your mouth! They resemble nothing of what you know strawberries to be.
Lots of wine....
Dinner, Sunday May 7th: We dined lavishly at Il Buco. As many have noted before this is not Sorrento's cheapest restaurant, but I think certainly one of its best. We have a 7 course meal with so much stuff and free flowing wine, it all ran together! I would highly suggest eating there just as a change of pace from pizza and pasta.
Service was magnificent and the Maitre D was a superb host. The restaurant is off Piazza Sant Antonio, a small square closer to the sea and our hotel than Piazzo Tasso. It is set in a unique way; dining outside on the leveled terrace or inside, where we sat, in a cave like atmosphere that is not dark like you would expect a "cave" like atmosphere to be.
Dinner was perfecto!
All this talk about food is making me hungry, I'll be back after a lunch break.....
Sunday May 7th: As our first meal in Sorrento, I had prearranged a private lunch on the terrace bar at the hotel for the group. As we first came upon the hotel, we passed by our lunch spot as they were all set up for us. We had two lovely round tables set for us , overlooking the Bay of Naples. The menu was delicious:
Ravioli Caprese with smoked cheese
Local white grilled fish with grilled vegetables
Green Salad
and then a light cake topped with wild strawberries and vanilla gelato.
If you have never had wild strawberries, these are teeny tiny strawberries that pop flavor in your mouth! They resemble nothing of what you know strawberries to be.
Lots of wine....
Dinner, Sunday May 7th: We dined lavishly at Il Buco. As many have noted before this is not Sorrento's cheapest restaurant, but I think certainly one of its best. We have a 7 course meal with so much stuff and free flowing wine, it all ran together! I would highly suggest eating there just as a change of pace from pizza and pasta.
Service was magnificent and the Maitre D was a superb host. The restaurant is off Piazza Sant Antonio, a small square closer to the sea and our hotel than Piazzo Tasso. It is set in a unique way; dining outside on the leveled terrace or inside, where we sat, in a cave like atmosphere that is not dark like you would expect a "cave" like atmosphere to be.
Dinner was perfecto!
All this talk about food is making me hungry, I'll be back after a lunch break.....
May 15th, 2006, 09:47 AM
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I'm enjoying your report so much! Was your neighborhood travel group the one that was profiled in the Washington Post a few years ago? Would you be willing to share your travel agent's name? I also live in Northern Virginia and plan several trips a year for family and friends. I can see the benefits of getting professional help! Sometimes I feel like I need professional help of a different kind for OTP (obsessive travel planning)- a common disorder on this forum, I think.
May 15th, 2006, 10:11 AM
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This vacation sounds like it is beyond awesome, Tripgirl. Nice Job. We are going to be in the same area for a week in September, but I think the digs are going to be much more basic!
Would it be HORRIBLY RUDE for me to ask the ballpark figure for each couple on your trip? You don't need to answer if you don't want!
Would it be HORRIBLY RUDE for me to ask the ballpark figure for each couple on your trip? You don't need to answer if you don't want!
May 15th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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I'm loving your report! I love traveling with friends as well, and I'm learning quickly that its so much easier to do the planning myself!
I also love the modern/old combination and will look into this hotel next time we are on the Amalfi coast.
I also love the modern/old combination and will look into this hotel next time we are on the Amalfi coast.
May 15th, 2006, 10:24 AM
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Hi,
I am planning my first trip to Amalfi coast next spring- last week of April.
How's the weather that time of the year? Is it a good time to go or not? I've heard that it might be rainy in April (but it's the last week of April?). Please advise. Thanks.
I am planning my first trip to Amalfi coast next spring- last week of April.
How's the weather that time of the year? Is it a good time to go or not? I've heard that it might be rainy in April (but it's the last week of April?). Please advise. Thanks.
May 15th, 2006, 11:24 AM
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thanks for all your replies: let see:
Liz: April weather: We were there May 4-11 and had no problems with weather, it was gorgeous, but I would not call it completely shorts and T weather. At night we had long pants and light wraps. During the day, some of us wore shorts, ( I wore light pants) and no need for any coat or jacket.
April might be more iffy, but we also like the fact of less crowds. I guess it will be determined what you llike to do. However, the AC as I can now see is meant to be seen outdoors( its unlike Rome or Florence where you could duck into a fab museum in inclement weather and spend time there; the AC main attraction is the stunning scenery and vistas), so if you have a choice, wait until May-June
Happy cheesehead: No, its not rude to ask me the cost. So just give me your e mail address and I will tell you privately. I just don't want to have to go into great detail on a public forum about $ and possibly open a can of worms( everyone on this forum has their opinions, you know and no need to mar this report by getting off track when it comes to $). But I'm delighted to assist you.
Lina: No were not actually the travel group profiled in the Post a few yrs ago, but I did contact the group leader of that group and we had lunch. Turns out they do their trips much, much more informally than we do. She was delightful, but she said if our groups were to ever meet, I was to keep my organizational skills a secret!!! She was afraid her group would ask more of her!!!! And I wrote a response to the Post saying it could have been our group they were describing and gave some general tips about organizing a group. It was published!
Dorkforcemom: Just read over your recent report and I know you'll love the AC; feel free to ask more ?
I'll be back tomorrow with some more DINING.. gotta go, go go!
Liz: April weather: We were there May 4-11 and had no problems with weather, it was gorgeous, but I would not call it completely shorts and T weather. At night we had long pants and light wraps. During the day, some of us wore shorts, ( I wore light pants) and no need for any coat or jacket.
April might be more iffy, but we also like the fact of less crowds. I guess it will be determined what you llike to do. However, the AC as I can now see is meant to be seen outdoors( its unlike Rome or Florence where you could duck into a fab museum in inclement weather and spend time there; the AC main attraction is the stunning scenery and vistas), so if you have a choice, wait until May-June
Happy cheesehead: No, its not rude to ask me the cost. So just give me your e mail address and I will tell you privately. I just don't want to have to go into great detail on a public forum about $ and possibly open a can of worms( everyone on this forum has their opinions, you know and no need to mar this report by getting off track when it comes to $). But I'm delighted to assist you.
Lina: No were not actually the travel group profiled in the Post a few yrs ago, but I did contact the group leader of that group and we had lunch. Turns out they do their trips much, much more informally than we do. She was delightful, but she said if our groups were to ever meet, I was to keep my organizational skills a secret!!! She was afraid her group would ask more of her!!!! And I wrote a response to the Post saying it could have been our group they were describing and gave some general tips about organizing a group. It was published!
Dorkforcemom: Just read over your recent report and I know you'll love the AC; feel free to ask more ?
I'll be back tomorrow with some more DINING.. gotta go, go go!
May 15th, 2006, 11:24 AM
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tripgirl, I admire you for being able keep everyone a "happy camper", although your travel style is certainly a far cry from camping 
The only time I have organized a group of 20 was for a cruise, which was much easier because everyone was on their own once we got onboard. I can imagine how much work it was to make it a positive experience for everyone.
What a wonderful neighborhood you must have. Your block parties must be great fun Deborah
The only time I have organized a group of 20 was for a cruise, which was much easier because everyone was on their own once we got onboard. I can imagine how much work it was to make it a positive experience for everyone.
What a wonderful neighborhood you must have. Your block parties must be great fun
Deborah
May 15th, 2006, 05:00 PM
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Deborah,
Thanks!
I think when you decide to travel with a group, even if it not as elaborately done as we do it, you really have to think about who you are traveling with.
This may sound weird, but this all works for me because it is crystal clear who is in charge. I think if you get people who want run things differently, the trip can become a mess. This also may sound weird, but I also found that traveling with people less experienced than yourself actually is an advantage to the leader. I have found they are more apt to go along with what is planned.
For that reason, as much as I enjoy all of you folks, to tell the truth, and this is a compliment believe it or not, I would not want to travel with any of you. Simply because I think all of us here on Fodors are leaders and everyone would have their own opinions on how to do things.
With that said, my groups have worked well over the years and I am pleased.
Now onto some more DINING
Monday May 8th: After a huge meal last night, it's a wonder any of us had a morning appetite, but we did.
Today was our Amalfi Coast Drive day ( see next section to come: ACTIVITIES but not with Luca!!)and so lunch together was on the schedule.
I planned it so we could dine with the famous Netta Bottone who owns Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello. Those who have eaten at the famous place will not tire of me raving about her.
All I can sayis what a hoot she is. you must eat here.
First, as soon as we were seated, she comes over in her "housecoat" and big yellow fake flower in her bun and grabs the face of one of our friends and hugs it. Then she does it to another, and then another, she's a scream!!!!
The meal was not prepaid, so Netta asks me how much do I want to pay. Now, our guide Lelo ( I will tell you more about Lelo when I get to ACTIVITIES, briefly, he's great, but not as good looking as Luca!)interrupts Netta as she is speaking Italian to me asking me how much i want to pay. I perfectly understood her and Lelo interrupts trying to interpret to make sure I understood, Netta shooes him, saying in Italian that "she understands me, leave us!!!"
Anyway, we settle on a price and we are served a magnificent lunch of a antipasto plate then her famous pasta tasting of 5 pastas all on one plate. After last night's meal at Il Buco, the group wanted to make sure after the pasta, there was no more! And indeed that is all we had, but it was plenty! Her pasta is to die for!!!!
Although our lunch was brief in relative terms, our time with Netta will always be memorable........
I'll be back tomorrow with more, I'm tired after a long day of clients......( been typing this report in between them all!)
Thanks!
I think when you decide to travel with a group, even if it not as elaborately done as we do it, you really have to think about who you are traveling with.
This may sound weird, but this all works for me because it is crystal clear who is in charge. I think if you get people who want run things differently, the trip can become a mess. This also may sound weird, but I also found that traveling with people less experienced than yourself actually is an advantage to the leader. I have found they are more apt to go along with what is planned.
For that reason, as much as I enjoy all of you folks, to tell the truth, and this is a compliment believe it or not, I would not want to travel with any of you. Simply because I think all of us here on Fodors are leaders and everyone would have their own opinions on how to do things.
With that said, my groups have worked well over the years and I am pleased.
Now onto some more DINING
Monday May 8th: After a huge meal last night, it's a wonder any of us had a morning appetite, but we did.
Today was our Amalfi Coast Drive day ( see next section to come: ACTIVITIES but not with Luca!!)and so lunch together was on the schedule.
I planned it so we could dine with the famous Netta Bottone who owns Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello. Those who have eaten at the famous place will not tire of me raving about her.
All I can sayis what a hoot she is. you must eat here.
First, as soon as we were seated, she comes over in her "housecoat" and big yellow fake flower in her bun and grabs the face of one of our friends and hugs it. Then she does it to another, and then another, she's a scream!!!!
The meal was not prepaid, so Netta asks me how much do I want to pay. Now, our guide Lelo ( I will tell you more about Lelo when I get to ACTIVITIES, briefly, he's great, but not as good looking as Luca!)interrupts Netta as she is speaking Italian to me asking me how much i want to pay. I perfectly understood her and Lelo interrupts trying to interpret to make sure I understood, Netta shooes him, saying in Italian that "she understands me, leave us!!!"
Anyway, we settle on a price and we are served a magnificent lunch of a antipasto plate then her famous pasta tasting of 5 pastas all on one plate. After last night's meal at Il Buco, the group wanted to make sure after the pasta, there was no more! And indeed that is all we had, but it was plenty! Her pasta is to die for!!!!
Although our lunch was brief in relative terms, our time with Netta will always be memorable........
I'll be back tomorrow with more, I'm tired after a long day of clients......( been typing this report in between them all!)
May 15th, 2006, 07:01 PM
#35
I hope the changes to the Bellevue Syrene have not meant the banishment of the hotel kitty Poppea. Please tell me she greeted you on the entry terrace during the day or at the exterior door to the bar in the evening. The place would not feel "improved" if the mascot was missing.
May 16th, 2006, 04:15 AM
#36
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Jean,
i never saw a kitty , but that does not mean she is gone.
More DINING...
After our long day on the AC, I scheduled no dinner for the group; everyone could do what they wanted.
DH and I went up tot he Piazza Tasso later that night about 9pm and ate at Pizzeria Aurora. I had pizza and he had fettucine bolognese; all very good. It was nice to just sit and relax after a long day( I'll post all bout our day inthe next section). Some of our group stayed aback at the hotel and had dinner, some skipped dinner entirely.
Tuesday May 8th: this was our day to Pompeii and so after we got back, everyone split up to have lunch. DH and I and two other couples made our way down to Marina Grande and we went to Da Emilia for seafood. Grilled quid, fried squid, spaghetti with clams, spaghetti with mussels, salads and wine. The place is the first trattoria you come to as you descend form the stairs. I wold recommend going down to the marina at least once to see it; it's raw and real. There are many restaurants to choose from, we thought Da Emilia was good.
Dinner: Tonight we go to Il Ritrovo up in Montepertuso above Positano. What a treat1 Our private bus comes to pick us up and we begin the amalfi Coast drive again, but this time snake our way above Positano. The view is simply breathtaking and we can get a sense of night in Positano. WThe lights are all aglow at night and its so pretty.
Only 12 of us went to Il ritrovo; a few people wanted to just stay back; the meal was not a prepaid one.
We ordered off the menu, most of us had fish, pasta, salad. It was only us and a few locals there that night. I know the restaurant gets some mixed reviews, but we found the setting enchanting anf the food and service to be very good.
I'll finish the last day of meals, a little later today.....
i never saw a kitty , but that does not mean she is gone.
More DINING...
After our long day on the AC, I scheduled no dinner for the group; everyone could do what they wanted.
DH and I went up tot he Piazza Tasso later that night about 9pm and ate at Pizzeria Aurora. I had pizza and he had fettucine bolognese; all very good. It was nice to just sit and relax after a long day( I'll post all bout our day inthe next section). Some of our group stayed aback at the hotel and had dinner, some skipped dinner entirely.
Tuesday May 8th: this was our day to Pompeii and so after we got back, everyone split up to have lunch. DH and I and two other couples made our way down to Marina Grande and we went to Da Emilia for seafood. Grilled quid, fried squid, spaghetti with clams, spaghetti with mussels, salads and wine. The place is the first trattoria you come to as you descend form the stairs. I wold recommend going down to the marina at least once to see it; it's raw and real. There are many restaurants to choose from, we thought Da Emilia was good.
Dinner: Tonight we go to Il Ritrovo up in Montepertuso above Positano. What a treat1 Our private bus comes to pick us up and we begin the amalfi Coast drive again, but this time snake our way above Positano. The view is simply breathtaking and we can get a sense of night in Positano. WThe lights are all aglow at night and its so pretty.
Only 12 of us went to Il ritrovo; a few people wanted to just stay back; the meal was not a prepaid one.
We ordered off the menu, most of us had fish, pasta, salad. It was only us and a few locals there that night. I know the restaurant gets some mixed reviews, but we found the setting enchanting anf the food and service to be very good.
I'll finish the last day of meals, a little later today.....
May 16th, 2006, 08:59 AM
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Oh, Tripgirl, I think the operative phrase here regarding costs is - "if you have to ask, you can't afford it!" LOL!
It just all sounds so wonderful, but priced above my operating budget from what I see of the hotels, etc that I looked up.
I am glad that you got the extra fab/glam rooms as a partial payment for all your hard work!
Looking forward to the rest.....
It just all sounds so wonderful, but priced above my operating budget from what I see of the hotels, etc that I looked up.
I am glad that you got the extra fab/glam rooms as a partial payment for all your hard work!
Looking forward to the rest.....
May 16th, 2006, 10:20 AM
#38
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Happy cheesehead: We all work our you know what off during the year, so budget is not a major concern, but I know we could even get more glam and fab for a price!
Anyway, let me finish and summarize DINING
Wednesday May 10th: an entirely free day for the group to do whatever they wanted. For lunch DH and I and two other coupes make our way to O'Parruchiano, Corso Italia 71-73. The restaurant is a sprawling garden like complex. the setting is very nice, but the food was only so-so. I did not pick this place, one of the other couples did, so I let them have their way! Would I eat here again? Probably not. Not bad, but not great. We ordered pastas, salads, etc. Again, just so-so.
Sometime during the day, we stopped by Davide , V P.R Guiliana for gelato. OH MY! Falbulous gelaot setin about 50 flavors and its magnificent. I like the way the arrange the case: from fruity to chocolate and coffe flavors; it's excellent and I highly recommend.
And at last, our last meal of the trip commences at Ristorante Caruso. We are seated in a semi private room with wall covered in Caruso memorabilia. The wait staf are extremely pleasant and accommodating. The food was good, but not my favorite on the trip ( that would have to be Le Grottelle and Il Buco). But the restaurant is very comfortable and the nostalgia is nice. There were many locals dining.
At this point let me summarize accommodations and restaurants for the trip and then I will move on to SORRENTO AND AMALFI COAST ACTIVITIES AND THEN FINAL THOUGHTS
CAPRI:
Hotel: Casa Morgano
Restaurants:
Le Grotelle,
Da Gemma
Villa Verde
( sorry, I forgot the place we have pizza with Luca for lunch, but it is on Via Longano, just in back of the Piazzetta)
All breakfasts in hotel
SORRENTO AND THE AC
Hotel: Bellevue Syrene
Restaurants:
Hotel terrace for lunch
Il Buco( sorrento)
Cumpa Cosimo( ravello)
Da Emilia( Marina Grande in Sorrento)
Il Ritrovo ( montepertuso above positano)
Pizzeria Aurora ( Piazza Tasso in Sorrento)
Davide ( in sorrento) for gelato
Ristorante Caruso: (in Sorrento)
I'll be back later....
Anyway, let me finish and summarize DINING
Wednesday May 10th: an entirely free day for the group to do whatever they wanted. For lunch DH and I and two other coupes make our way to O'Parruchiano, Corso Italia 71-73. The restaurant is a sprawling garden like complex. the setting is very nice, but the food was only so-so. I did not pick this place, one of the other couples did, so I let them have their way! Would I eat here again? Probably not. Not bad, but not great. We ordered pastas, salads, etc. Again, just so-so.
Sometime during the day, we stopped by Davide , V P.R Guiliana for gelato. OH MY! Falbulous gelaot setin about 50 flavors and its magnificent. I like the way the arrange the case: from fruity to chocolate and coffe flavors; it's excellent and I highly recommend.
And at last, our last meal of the trip commences at Ristorante Caruso. We are seated in a semi private room with wall covered in Caruso memorabilia. The wait staf are extremely pleasant and accommodating. The food was good, but not my favorite on the trip ( that would have to be Le Grottelle and Il Buco). But the restaurant is very comfortable and the nostalgia is nice. There were many locals dining.
At this point let me summarize accommodations and restaurants for the trip and then I will move on to SORRENTO AND AMALFI COAST ACTIVITIES AND THEN FINAL THOUGHTS
CAPRI:
Hotel: Casa Morgano
Restaurants:
Le Grotelle,
Da Gemma
Villa Verde
( sorry, I forgot the place we have pizza with Luca for lunch, but it is on Via Longano, just in back of the Piazzetta)
All breakfasts in hotel
SORRENTO AND THE AC
Hotel: Bellevue Syrene
Restaurants:
Hotel terrace for lunch
Il Buco( sorrento)
Cumpa Cosimo( ravello)
Da Emilia( Marina Grande in Sorrento)
Il Ritrovo ( montepertuso above positano)
Pizzeria Aurora ( Piazza Tasso in Sorrento)
Davide ( in sorrento) for gelato
Ristorante Caruso: (in Sorrento)
I'll be back later....
May 16th, 2006, 10:36 AM
#39
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Wow Tripgirl! Sounds like quite a trip to plan. I applaud you for doing that for your friends (you definitely deserved the better rooms - that is a ton of leg work). I am very much enjoying your report!
Sally
Sally
