im going to start this thread in a way as a tribute to a man whose thread i read some two years ago here on fodors...'alyssamo' ( ken, i think) posted his itinerary and enabled me and my partner to really enjoy our two week holiday in croatia
hope this helps someone else! and big thanks alyssamo if youre out there!

SYDNEY TO VIENNA
trip starts in australia...sydney on the 31st may 2006 so any aussies who are contemplating something similar feel free to contact me..
booked flights through flight centre and encountered a lot of hassles..the poor guy ended up having to pay for his mistakes for booking us on flights days earlier than planned...ALWAYS double check your itinerary!
615 am flying over Vienna thursday 1st june 06 ..overcast but could still see all the green round the airport ( as an aussie this is a sight for sore eyes! no water restrictions!)
everyone clapped on landing ( still dont get that bit...arent they supposed to land safely? or is that optional?)austrian airlines...wouldnt rate them highly on hospitality and the red uniforms need a rethink...just mho!
6 euros each for the bus from the airport...went to have a look at the NH hotel across the road ( this we booked for our night before flying home ...very handy and not noisy considering its right across the road from the airport)
we found pension Nossek..hard to see the sign which is high up on the building itself..great location though in the Graben ( Graben 17 ) ..mozart composed a few hits here! lived here for a year or so!
a great place to stay ...run by a couple of sisters ...best coffee ever! room was nice...looked out onto the graben ..little window box with geraniums...walking distance to a lot of the sights and plenty of shops around
checked in our luggage ( check in at 2pm -the usual)
caught the hop on hop off bus for 20 euros each..listened to the taped commentary ( not as good as the london hop on/off)dont know if there are buses with live guides in vienna
weather was cold...drizzly...i wore a big scarf and had a light raincoat handy the whole time...byt 1140 am the sun came out
we went along the danube canal
the prater ( ferris wheel) crossed the bridge into the 2nd district ( 23 districts in total) saw the gorgeous francis josef church the millineum towerand the danube tower with its revolving restaurant
next were the danube islands a national park for endangered species..has a boat tour i believe
went past the beautiful state opera house across the canal along studenrin and then to city park where there are monuments of strauss and other musicians
lots of palaces around here -now hotels
we stayed on the bus for a 2nd time around ( the greenline)and found a seat right at the front for a great view..the streets are wide...full of light
this time we got off at kunst haus to have a look at the gallery but didnt go in
had a look at hundertwasterhaus but werent allowed in ...the residents cant cope with tourists
bought a t-shirt :no kangaroos in austria
visited the amazing toilets ( pipi place!) and had a great lunch at the hundertwasser village shops in the lounge upstairs
pork and sauerkraut for 5.90 euros and some goulash soup 3.50eu and some pork shnitzel and sauerkraut
had the tiniest cup of mocha coffee ( thimble sized)
all up 28 euros for two of us
the friendly waitress told us how to get to the foothills of vienna..a must do!!!
look for Kahlenberg then get to Schweden pl U4 to Heiligenstadt catch bus 38A to Kahlenberg
we planned to do this the next day

after lunch we walked along the canal ..leafy avenues here ..lovely Hundertwasse Promenade ..crossed the canal to the Prater ...rode the ferris wheel and saw Vienna spread before us..bought the photo they take of you..very nice shot so for me it was worth the 9.60 euros!
walked through district#2 and bought some groceries at Penny Supermarket...bread cheese some chocolate a couple of apples and some juice...all up 6 euros
caught tram for 2 euros and walked a block back to pension nossek in the graben

fri 2nd june
took a few pics of the graben at 5am ...beautiful ...buildings have gorgeous architectural detail...pension nossek is opposite the Erste Bank and a Photo shop( that would have been handy to know when we were walking, looking for it!)
we stayed in number 6 apartment...very quiet ..double doors with really high ceilings...two single beds pushed together isnt great but there was another bed in the room..not that we were expecting company!..lots of room though and the bathroom was newly refurbished...id really recommend it ...it just felt like home...and thats what it used to be ...someones home
we had a quick look at ST Stephens..a very impressive church...very masculine...very stately and grey..reminded me of something from a batman movie ..saw two beggars in the church
lit some candles for our kids back home and went back for an excellent breakfast at pension nossek
cold meats dip rye and black bread fruit salad and excellent coffee.. ( there were cereals too...lots of variety)the dining room is small and cosy..intimate ...painted in a cheerful yellow....
after breakfast walked to U3 and got to Schwedenplatz ..only 1.50 euro for the whole journey..changed at Schwedenplatz took U4 to Heligenstadt which is the end of the line...ready for our day in the foothills of vienna
( for aussies..have a look at getaway site and view the excellent video they made of the wine country here ....we arent drinkers but really enjoyed the countryside here..)
by 9.25am we were had got off the train and were standing at the 38A bus station ..bus comes every ten minutes..the train fare inclded the bus trip
( looked at prices of sandwiches around the station...about 1.50-2.60 euros)
9.34 the 38A bus arried ..saw a whole load of tiny school kids standing ..holding on ...a school excursion..all well behaved ..one teacher only...cant see this happening in australia! unseated littlies on public transport??
ot was overcast and quite cold..the journey was pleasant..lots of nice apartments with quaint architectural features...mixed with modern buildings...
on through Grinzing
by 945 the bus was climbing up the gentle slopes of the vineyards...beautiful woodland all around...so different from australia
at Cobenzl theres a great view of Vienna but it was too foggy at the time
we decided to ride a couple of stops up to Leopoldsburg but there was only a church anda restaurant here
the views however were spectacular...we had coffee in the restaurant...we were the only ones there..it being a week day...the waiter was personable..chatty ..we took several pics of the Danube canal winding its way below
we walked the twenty minute walk doewn to Kahlenberg ...all woodland and absolutely Austrian!
byt 12 20 we were on the bus back to Helingenstadt..another 2 euros each
Kahlenberg was under construction so we only bought some postcards and wated for the next bus
( luckily we had spent most of the time in leopoldberg!)
jumped off the bus at Grinzig and tried to look for Elisabeth kirsche ..a church wed heard about..encountered one of the most helpful schoolgirls ever...she actually ran back to give us more information...thumbs up to austrian teens!

caught the train back to vienna city ...in town by 1 15 pm..dogs everywhere ! lots of amazing looking dachshunds and other breeds i didnt recognise..
decided to find the markets ...popped into the Burg theatre and met 'vasil' a guy dressed up as mozart promoting the concert that night...he obliged and took a photo of us outside the theatre
walked past the museum quarter and long 1 burgring
bought a tshirt for 13 euros of 'the kiss' by gustav klimt...love that shirt and its still going after two years!
found the Nasch Markets and had great afternoon tea at a red and black themed coffee shop 'segafredos cafe espresso'
divine apple cake and the famous sacher torte with coffee...10 .30 euros for the two of us
after coffee walked past Karlplatze and caught the train ...one stop to Stephenplatz and walked a little way to pension nossek
my partners feet were aching so he had a nap whilst i went across to the photo shop and had my pics put on discand did some souvenir shop
pension nossek cost us 220 euros for two nights...worth every cent
next...on to prague!

Vienna to Prague
sat 3rd june
raining! the cab came to pick us up at 5.05 to take us to the airport..we were advised to get a taxi rather than the train
cab driver came out ..ready with an umbrella..was really polite and acted as tour guide all the way to the airport..pointed out the gassometer apartments and informed us they cost 8000 euros per month...anyone want some austrian real estate?
cabe fare cost 38 euros and we tipped him 7 euros ( dont ask why lol0
had breakfast at vienna airport sandwich and coffee 7.50 euros
boarded at 645am..had to walk down a flight of stairs to catch the shuttle bus to a tiny plane 0503 tyrolean...had propellers

it was a 55 min trip to prague...overcast raining all the way ..we were served one chocolatea coffee and a small water ..the first class seat in front of us got a plate of food
on approach to prague...
beautiful green and golden fields broken up by dense green windbreaks..
landed at 820 am got through customs and were on the 119 bus by 920am...sunny skies at last!

we were booked into the antik hotel in prague

tickets for the bus were 20 czech kroners ..rode the bus to Dejvicka station caught lineA ..3 stops to Starometska...walked around but couldnt find the Antik hotel
starting to panic..no sign of 13 Malo stepanska streeti went to 22 Dlouha ( near Malo Stupartsky st0 ...it was like the street had disappeared...we had rung from the airport to tell them we were on the way and to verify the address
finally a nice old lady with two chihuahuas came along and insisted on helping...sure enough we were at the wrong HOTEL ANTIK!..there are two!..we were booked into the hotel antik City...in the 2nd district!
what a waste of a morning! be careful when booking on internet...even when you speak on the phone there can be misunderstandings!
caught a 'proper' cab to our hotelantik city and paide140 czech kroners..(tip included)..this is important to know...dont catch any old cab...only the AAA ones...many are unlicenced to carry paying passengers and will charge triple ..so ask only for AAA even when catching a cab from a hotel

finally got to Stepanska and unpacked in the hotel..not bad..quite roomy but not the same atmosphere as in Vienna
we found Prague extremely tired and grubby looking
out of curiosity on our afternoon walk i popped into the hotel europe..didnt look that grand..bit shabby for the asking price of 140 euros..better value at pension nossek in vienna i thought
took some pics along Smetanovo Narezi and walked tothe Smetany museum...lots of nice cafes around the river here
but 145 we walking in the Mala Strana ( Little Quarter) along Lazenska St past the church in Molecka St..sat down at Catalunga cafe for a hot apple juice
(jabecny grog)38czk a tuna sandwich ( disgraceful presentation - 55czk) and an espresso 35czk..the coffee was the best one yet of our travels however..rated by my coffee swilling partner who likes it black sweet and strong!
the service was uninspiring..slow and unattentive...the waitress knew nothing of the touristy surrounds ...probably a newbie herself
by 2pm we were off to Petrin Park..one of the must-sees
had a look at St Nicholas on the way but had to pay 60czk to get in ...find that a bit nasty...to pay to get into a church..it was grand...ostentatious..not elegant however like the churches of vienna..lacking something..i dont know what..class?
along Nerudova st we went..up to Hradcany Praha..it was beginning to warm up
past the Swedish embassy ..took a pic of Prague from the beginning of Petrin Park
uphill all the way to Strahovsky Kluster a monastery..walked into some part of this and took a pic of the lion statue through the window ( very arty for me ) but was promptly kicked out by a cleaning lady
up and out again to Petrin ...more hill
lots of birch trees
took the climb up the tower for 50 czk each..counted 282 steps...( hope im right but will stand corrected)...nice views from this eiffel look alike tower...definitely a highlight and you cant see the grubbiness of Prague from here..bonus!
4pm sat down to rest after the climb and talked to the guy selling postcards outside the tower about the possibility of doing a day trip to Cesky Krumlov the next day...( prague was not the city of my romantic dreams so far...time to split!)
walking back we tried to have a peek into St Loretta church but were shoved out ( yep shoved out ) by a big burly lady
walked to the Prague palace taking lots of pics along Hradcanskenam Praha1 ..great detail under the eaves of the buildings...definitely beautiful ...disney -esque ..pity about the cigarette butts everywhere and the peeling paint..just unkempt all round
took some pics of the guards outside the palace ( 5pm)and were mortified by the antics of some young men bending over...clowning around the guards...such disrespect...sickening

took several photos of St Vitius cathedral inside the grounds of the palace...gorgeous detail..saw a big queue for the concertthat evening
had a look at Lobkowicz Palace cafe...and Restaurant Terrace...wasnt open yet for business but looked really good ...nice views over Prague..had a nice waffle gelatio ..three flavours ...right near the toy museum..yum
on we went past Valostnejnska ( Mala Strana ..Little Quarters again) and off to the big train station Narozdni
determined to get to Cesky Krumlove the next morning
partner had a nap back at hotel antik city whilst i went out to hunt down a place to eat
the guy at reception recommended the typical touristyplaces...( methinks there are kickbacks here) so i ventured into the seedy 2nd district where we were staying and found an old lady coming off the bus ..started talking and she turned out to be very helpful...told me to avoid the tourist restaurants but to head down to the Theatre District Narozdni Diavelich Karlom Svetlaya 'Stoletni Restaurant'..where the locals go...( '100' yrs )...
we caught a cab at 9 pm and were ripped off...the same guy at reception called his 'uncle'..an unregistered cab driver who took us for a big ride...we were seething in the back ...but what can you do
the service at the restaurant was a bit slow but the ambience good...great food...i had cabbage soup with potatoes and my partner had an omelette with blue cheese and spinach..all the main courses were priced around 3.70 euros...seemed ok
we had chicken with almonds ( on the dry side) with more potatoes gravy and mushrooms and also a dish of turkey and sheep cheese
lots of smokers in the restaurant..strange for us aussies
meal cost about 36 australian dollars so we were happy
asked the waiter to call us an AAA taxi...felt stupid to have to specify for goodness sake///only paid 120 czk on the way home as opposed to the 350 on the way in!..big warning!

sunday 4th may 06
DAY TRIP to CESKT KRUMLOV
woke up to more drizzle...430 am ,,still jet lagged but functioning
walked from the hotel antik city to the station platform 5 reay to catch the 6:23 am train to cesky krumlov
the lady at the station ticket booth advised us to wait til the sunday to buy a ticket..was cheaper to buy on a sunday ..how nice of her!!!
paid 360 czk...for two tickets..cheap as chips...beauty!!
talked to the friendly train conductor who was married to a russian lady..he talked about his family..) told us to sit in the back of the train...the part that goes to cesky krumlov...you have to pay attention to the announcements
we sat in a cabin we had to ourselves..i was glad i wasnt travelling alone...a little bit creepy for me...cos you cant see other people and anyone can come and join you
pretty landscape all the way ...a bit monotonous but i was glued to the window snapping away while partner slept..forests and villages with tall skinny 2 storey houses
lots of green green fields..
train stopped at 85o..lady conductor came on checking that we were all sure of where we were going...another nice touch..train set off again 9:15
i had my first cinnamon tic tac at this point ...shouldve stocked up on them ..cos i couldnt buy them anywhere after prague!!!
past bostov and vlatou ..crossed the bridge ...towns looked modern now...some quaint looking homes in the mix but mostly all post-war
on past Vrabce and to Ceske Budjovice
hilly country now but a bit too foggy for pics...pleasant but nothing spectacular
each time the train crosses the narrow roads it sounds its horn..kinda cute and country
conductor came round to announce that we were approaching cesky Krumlov
we got off ...bought a map for 30 czk and by 10 :05 were walking down the country road to the village of Krumlov below
it was still early ..with not many people about..we sat down for a coffee at Krumlovsky Mlyn and had a really bad cup of something...asked for espresso to be added but still didnt improve the taste..nice streudel though and a warm fire to dry ourselves a bit
popped into St Vitius...no pics allowed
streets are mostly cobblestoned so not a good idea to have a wheelie bag if you plan on staying in cesky krumlov...also have to consider footwear..one street was soo steep and cobbled...many a heel or wheel must have come off on this path
went into the castle ..35 kroners each plenty of photo opportunities...views all around...all the famous ones you see in the travel books
really nice
had a coffee at Van goghs cage...that was super...really nice atmosphere and great decor,,,bob marley playing in the background
we were ready to catch the 3pm train back to prague...
yes you could stay longer but a day trip sufficed...my advice...dont listen to people who say you need at least two three days here...you can see plenty in just a few hours
changed trains at Cezkebudjovice...the home of bud beer( an hour from krumlov and worth a look if youre fond of the beer)
loads of men drinking on the train..but all peaceful...female inspector came on and checked tickets at 445pm
home early evening...walked all the way back to hotel antik city...
freshened up and by 8pm were out walking - our last night in prague
walked to Wenceslas Square...not much after the buildup..lots of black guys asking if you want drugs or money exchange...seedy..lots of police doing nothing
on through to the Old Town to see the astronomical clock
stopped at the Staropramen Restaurant which is basically an outdoor cafe near the famous clock...bit draughty despite the heaters overhead
lobster bisque came...tasted like it came out of a tin ...and the bowls were half empty..some awful ravioli bread a tonic water and ordinary water a service tip...42 aud 683 kroners
went to look for the cashier so i could pay and was firmly ushered back to the table..seems like they have to be wary of people escaping without paying
in fact just as i was walking back ...i saw one of the waiters sitting at a vacated table..counting change..putting some into a glass and the rest into a wallet...what transpired next was to haunt me for the rest of my trip
as i went back to pay by credit card there was a huge commotion..two young american boys ( looked jewish new yorkers) were arguing that the money they had left on the table was adequate payment for a very ordinary meal..and no they were not leaving a service tip ..mandatory or not..the service was lousy they were saying and the food not up to standard...
they left
an ugly brutal looking bouncer bounded after them ...grabbing one of them and pushing him back to the cash register ( where we were all standing gaping)throwing him to the ground
the bouncer started to kick and punch him..in the back in the sides and then laying into him ...pummeling his head with his fists..
the young american was by now screaming ..ok ...ok ..ok stop...! trying to cover his face and head
we were all in shock...rivetted to the spot..not one of us offered help nor said a word...too stunned by the violence...i knew there were police around...but this was not a police matter...you could sense it

the man was taken inside the building away from the outdoor seating area to ' meet the manager'
i was shaking..sick...never seen anything like it
i gave them my credit card...shaking hands...and walked away without signing..only to realise in time...
i was so rocked by the scene...thinking of the two young men...on holiday far from home..cocky and brazen and now one of them beaten
my own son was to travel soon...i was deeply disturbed...police..other tourists..noone stepped in
bitter sour taste in mouth as i said good bye to prague that night...couldnt sleep for the dreams
an isolated incident perhaps but one that was the final straw that broke that dream id had of visiting 'the most romantic city in europe'
i steeled myself for croatia..flying out the next morning
this was as eastern block as i was going to go

>>>..two young american boys ( looked jewish new yorkers) <<<


For your sake, mates, I hope no one else sees this assinine remark. The slings and arrows would be quickly forthcoming!

I'll let you off easy, because just
yesterday I saw "two young Ausssie-looking blokes" being kicked out of a Los Angeles bar. Quite a coincidence , eh?

Stu T.

P.S. Perhaps you don't recall, but
in 1937 Hitler selected a large staff of German anthropologists who spent their days trying to determine just how to recognize "the Jewish look"...sort of a genocidal prep program.

The nice old lady with 2 little dogs? Was she white, black, Jewish? You didn't say, but I think you liked her. You were so descriptive in some of your report, especially the parts you didn't like. Oops, I think your prejudices were showing. I'm sure you didn't mean it.

I, too, wonder what caused you to think the two guys were Jewish New Yorkers.. Exactly what characteristics did they have to prompt you to make this leap.. (??)

didnt even think ..sorry ..dont care what religion creed or colour people are..have many jewish friends...just something i recalled as i was writing ...got lebanese friends too..
prejudiced? doesnt feel like it to me..if it came across that way...im sorry...

Thanks for the apology. I think we all do it, and I hope I'm called on it if my descriptions become hurtful to someone.

you know you made me stop and think
why did i describe that incident the way i did>

i was never focussed on the looks of the guy being bashed..really he was a handsome looking college age kid..bit of a swagger and confident in the initial encounter but then reduced to a writhing mess on the ground

im a mum...i wasnt thinking about his race or creed or religion..i did notice a mogon dovid ( sp? ) hanging by a thin gold chain as he was cowering on the ground ..ad i remember thinking ..far out..id never wear anything that so obviously advertised my personal beliefs..not when im travelling o/s...not in this climate!
as for new york..well the accent ..cos i was right behind them as they were arguing with the maitre d'
we do identify people like that..it was not my intention to do so in a negative way..not at all...
and i puzzled over your comments ..i thought that my focus was definitely on the bashing of the poor kid...i was thinking at the time...some poor mum and dad are going to get a phone call from a sorry son...( or maybe not) but it frightened me to the core...and im ashamed that i didnt do or say anything at the time...that makes me wondera bout myself ...yep i can justify it by saying i am a woman but to tell you the truth i was with my big burly OH and id not have let him get involved either
...
that is the my only shame in the encounter...that i didnt try to help someones son...couldve been my boy

oh ..the nice old lady with the chihuahuas ..she was heavy set and had difficulty walking and puffing a lot...thats why i was extra appreciative of her efforts.. so persistent in helping us!! to find the street we were looking for..spent about half an hour with her...couldnt repay her kindness ( who have i offended now lol...?)
no, she wasnt 'black'...she was a czech who spoke russian and had an old disabled husband at home...her chihuahuas were her children and much adored... i had dogs at home so we made a connection...as dog lovers
she didnt speak english but we communicated in broken czech and even more broken russian
i didnt ask if she was jewish or orthodox or catholic...lol...yeah i did like her and she was one of the nicest people i met in prague ( the female cab driver from AAA cabs was nice too but the shop keepers and hotel staff couldve been friendlier and more courteous)
dont judge a nation by a few encounters but everyone appreciates a smile and is turned off by undeserved rudeness..
my opinion..thats all

lanejohann:


I appreciate your apology. I guess you just didn't get it. I hope you do now..

stu t.

thnx for responding Stu..last thing i want to do is offend people..but i guess i could still do it inadvertently...
as for ' do i get it?' kinda sorta ..well no ..well yes...
i have to think some on that and observe myself from the outside..
but you know how it is..when all of a sudden you feel like youre being made into something youre not? and suddenly your little voice is lost in the crowd of anger and pointing fingers
i think to be racist/prejudiced ...well i dont know much about it..its something i dont think about
because i grew up with jewish people ( my mum and dad used to help the immigrants settle in sydney back in the 70s and we met lots of jewish people..big influx of russian jewish people in the 70s ..carted them round in our minivan helping them find accommodation etc)
so for me to be accused of being prejudiced against jewish folk is just kinda weird
i know them ...i have chewed on matzo bread with them and celebrated the 30th anniversary of israel..hung out in their clubs and sunbaked with them at bondi
so my comment..was just off the cuff..a description ...knowing jewish mums on some level i may have even been aware that getting news that their boy was hurt overseas would be met with a lot of emotion...not saying that other mums arent just as concerned but i know my jewish friends' parents were pretty strict and family was everything to them...they were close knit communities thats for sure
so i hope i all is explained now
shish my first post and im in trouble

lanejohann....


By all means, do not avoid posting here again... all of the adverse comments regarding your remark merely point out that a constant awareness of sensitivity is a vital trait for those posting herein. There are times to bite the tongue and times to gingerly walk on eggs...seems to me you may have learned a bit about this.

Keep on traveling, mates, keep on posting

...and "fair dinkum" is not a bad thought to fit in here!

Cheers!

Stu T.