Trip report: Prague, Vienna, Budapest
Dec 22nd, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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Trip report: Prague, Vienna, Budapest
First I would like to thank all of the wonderful people who post on here, your advice and opinions were priceless when it came to planning this trip.
In June a friend and I, both 21, traveled through Prague, Vienna and Budapest for 10 days. I meant to write this report sooner, but better late then never.
Prague:
Day 1:
Arrived in Prague at 8am, via an overnight train from Switzerland, this sounded like a great idea, until I realized that you don't quite get a normal night's rest on the train, which made for a long first day. Anyways, we walked around near the Charles Bridge and the national museum for the morning, and ate lunch at a place right on the river. We also bought a 3 day pass for the trams/metro which was extremely helpful. After lunch we went to check into our pension (Pension U Hejtmana), it was located in Praha 3, it was convenient to access from the tram (tram line #9, which runs 24hr), the man who ran the pension was super nice and even upgraded our room for free!
The first night also started our obsession with Euro 2008, as we watched the Netherlands play Italy!
Day 2:
We took the funi to Petrin and saw the observatory (although we declined climbing all those stairs!), the Hunger Wall, and gardens. We then walked to the castle and viewed St. George's Basilica, the main Prague castle, and the golden lane. We then walked back to old town and watched some of the euro 2008 game in Prague's fanzone and had ice cream.
Day 3:
We took a guided tour, through Whittmann tours of Terezin. They picked us up outside the Intercontinental hotel, which was fairly convenient. The tour group was small, maybe 12 total, and our guide was excellent. The town, museums, memorials, etc. were haunting, especially the exhibit of the artwork from children in the camp. For me, this was something that I felt I had to experience, and though it wasn't "fun" I am very glad that I went. I do not think I would have gotten nearly as much out of the visit if I had just gone on my own, and I was grateful for the tour guide and her extensive knowledge.
Vienna:
Day 4:
We ate breakfast in Prague in St Wenseelas Square and took the train from Prague to Vienna(approx 4 hours). We arrived in Vienna just in time to be on a metro train jam packed with Austrian soccer fans headed to the game against Poland. We stayed at the Pension Suzanne near the Opera House. It was definitely the nicest place we stayed on the trip, and included breakfast. I would highly recommend it, and the price is a bargain for its location. We ate dinner near the hotel and went back to hear the Austrian fans celebrating all night (Austria stayed alive by tying their first game).
Day 5:
We took a walk that a guide given to us by the hotel had suggested, it got us around town and well acquainted with where things were located. We had lunch at Trattoria Rossini, located near the Jesuit church, it was the MOST AMAZING Italian food I've ever had, including food I've eaten in Italy. It is off the beaten path and we just happened to spot it when we were searching for the Jesuit church, which was also a nice find, as it was incredibly ornate! We then went back to exploring the town and had coffee at Julius Miel (a coffeehouse which opened a store in Chicago, the only one other then Vienna!). We took the 3:45 English speaking tour of St. Stephan's Cathedral, the guide was great and took us closer to the alter then they allow regular visitors. It was also great to have some explanations of pieces of architecture and the history of the cathedral.
We went to a concert that people in the street were selling tickets to all over the city. At first I was a little disappointed, it was a small venue (just a room) and seemed like a tourist trap, but the music was very nice. It probably wouldn't please the music experts, but I was entertained.
Day 6:
After breakfast at the hotel we headed over to Naschmarkt and ate lunch at one of the restaurants there. The market was nice to look around at, but we didn't really need anything from there. We then headed out to the Vienna Zoo, and spent the day looking at the animals. It was a great zoo, and a must see for me as it is the oldest zoo in the world!
Budapest
Day 7:
We traveled to Budapest and arrived in the Keleti Pu station, from the moment we arrived I knew it was going to be a different taste of eastern Europe then Prague or Vienna. We bought a 3 day pass for the subway, which amused me with train cars that looked like they had just come from the 50s. We stayed at Agape guesthouse in the 7th district, it was a great price but the area was a bit dicey, I wouldn't walk around alone at night. We ate at a hummus bar near where we were staying and it was decent and super cheap. We then took the subway into the central area of town, we had a drink at an Irish pub and walked along the Danube, it was fun to people watch! A group of rowdy Brits, were our entertainment at the pub.
Day 8:
We went to the castle hill area, we were expecting something more like Prague castle, so we were a tad disappointed. We then headed over to the Pest side and had lunch at a little cafeteria style place. We also stopped and watched the rehearsal for a memorial/tribute to Nagy Imre, we later saw the actual ceremony on tv and I learned more about Nagy Imre when I went to the House of Terror.
We then walked to the Opera house and bought tickets to the Taming of the Shrew ballet. The inside of the Opera House is beautiful and the ballet was magnificent, minus the view issues. Be prepared to get what you pay for, and as our tickets were about $3, the view was blocked, I stood for the performance and saw most of the stage.
Day 9:
We went to St. Stephan's Basilica, which was amazing inside. After lunch we took a boat cruise down the Danube, it was okay, but I feel like I didn't learn anything from the tour, their info was straight from my guidebook, and the buildings, minus parliament, aren't that impressive.
Later I ventured to the House of Terror, the museum detailing the Nazi and Communist regimes in Hungary and located in the old headquarters of both regimes. I highly recommend it, although it is haunting what crimes these two regimes committed.
Day 10:
It rained! We went to the Gellert baths, we just used the indoor ones as it was raining and my friend wasn't thrilled to be there in general, but they had a gorgeous interior and I enjoyed them. It was a nice relaxing way to end the trip. After, we headed back to where we stayed to pick up our luggage and head to the airport. They arranged a cab for us (22 euros) and it took about 30 min to get to the airport.
Overall we had a wonderful trip and I loved the opportunity to break out of my western Europe bubble. Looking back, I think I would allow for more time in Vienna, and although I enjoyed Budapest, I could have done without it.
Best wishes on your travels, hope this is helpful!
In June a friend and I, both 21, traveled through Prague, Vienna and Budapest for 10 days. I meant to write this report sooner, but better late then never.
Prague:
Day 1:
Arrived in Prague at 8am, via an overnight train from Switzerland, this sounded like a great idea, until I realized that you don't quite get a normal night's rest on the train, which made for a long first day. Anyways, we walked around near the Charles Bridge and the national museum for the morning, and ate lunch at a place right on the river. We also bought a 3 day pass for the trams/metro which was extremely helpful. After lunch we went to check into our pension (Pension U Hejtmana), it was located in Praha 3, it was convenient to access from the tram (tram line #9, which runs 24hr), the man who ran the pension was super nice and even upgraded our room for free!
The first night also started our obsession with Euro 2008, as we watched the Netherlands play Italy!
Day 2:
We took the funi to Petrin and saw the observatory (although we declined climbing all those stairs!), the Hunger Wall, and gardens. We then walked to the castle and viewed St. George's Basilica, the main Prague castle, and the golden lane. We then walked back to old town and watched some of the euro 2008 game in Prague's fanzone and had ice cream.
Day 3:
We took a guided tour, through Whittmann tours of Terezin. They picked us up outside the Intercontinental hotel, which was fairly convenient. The tour group was small, maybe 12 total, and our guide was excellent. The town, museums, memorials, etc. were haunting, especially the exhibit of the artwork from children in the camp. For me, this was something that I felt I had to experience, and though it wasn't "fun" I am very glad that I went. I do not think I would have gotten nearly as much out of the visit if I had just gone on my own, and I was grateful for the tour guide and her extensive knowledge.
Vienna:
Day 4:
We ate breakfast in Prague in St Wenseelas Square and took the train from Prague to Vienna(approx 4 hours). We arrived in Vienna just in time to be on a metro train jam packed with Austrian soccer fans headed to the game against Poland. We stayed at the Pension Suzanne near the Opera House. It was definitely the nicest place we stayed on the trip, and included breakfast. I would highly recommend it, and the price is a bargain for its location. We ate dinner near the hotel and went back to hear the Austrian fans celebrating all night (Austria stayed alive by tying their first game).
Day 5:
We took a walk that a guide given to us by the hotel had suggested, it got us around town and well acquainted with where things were located. We had lunch at Trattoria Rossini, located near the Jesuit church, it was the MOST AMAZING Italian food I've ever had, including food I've eaten in Italy. It is off the beaten path and we just happened to spot it when we were searching for the Jesuit church, which was also a nice find, as it was incredibly ornate! We then went back to exploring the town and had coffee at Julius Miel (a coffeehouse which opened a store in Chicago, the only one other then Vienna!). We took the 3:45 English speaking tour of St. Stephan's Cathedral, the guide was great and took us closer to the alter then they allow regular visitors. It was also great to have some explanations of pieces of architecture and the history of the cathedral.
We went to a concert that people in the street were selling tickets to all over the city. At first I was a little disappointed, it was a small venue (just a room) and seemed like a tourist trap, but the music was very nice. It probably wouldn't please the music experts, but I was entertained.
Day 6:
After breakfast at the hotel we headed over to Naschmarkt and ate lunch at one of the restaurants there. The market was nice to look around at, but we didn't really need anything from there. We then headed out to the Vienna Zoo, and spent the day looking at the animals. It was a great zoo, and a must see for me as it is the oldest zoo in the world!
Budapest
Day 7:
We traveled to Budapest and arrived in the Keleti Pu station, from the moment we arrived I knew it was going to be a different taste of eastern Europe then Prague or Vienna. We bought a 3 day pass for the subway, which amused me with train cars that looked like they had just come from the 50s. We stayed at Agape guesthouse in the 7th district, it was a great price but the area was a bit dicey, I wouldn't walk around alone at night. We ate at a hummus bar near where we were staying and it was decent and super cheap. We then took the subway into the central area of town, we had a drink at an Irish pub and walked along the Danube, it was fun to people watch! A group of rowdy Brits, were our entertainment at the pub.
Day 8:
We went to the castle hill area, we were expecting something more like Prague castle, so we were a tad disappointed. We then headed over to the Pest side and had lunch at a little cafeteria style place. We also stopped and watched the rehearsal for a memorial/tribute to Nagy Imre, we later saw the actual ceremony on tv and I learned more about Nagy Imre when I went to the House of Terror.
We then walked to the Opera house and bought tickets to the Taming of the Shrew ballet. The inside of the Opera House is beautiful and the ballet was magnificent, minus the view issues. Be prepared to get what you pay for, and as our tickets were about $3, the view was blocked, I stood for the performance and saw most of the stage.
Day 9:
We went to St. Stephan's Basilica, which was amazing inside. After lunch we took a boat cruise down the Danube, it was okay, but I feel like I didn't learn anything from the tour, their info was straight from my guidebook, and the buildings, minus parliament, aren't that impressive.
Later I ventured to the House of Terror, the museum detailing the Nazi and Communist regimes in Hungary and located in the old headquarters of both regimes. I highly recommend it, although it is haunting what crimes these two regimes committed.
Day 10:
It rained! We went to the Gellert baths, we just used the indoor ones as it was raining and my friend wasn't thrilled to be there in general, but they had a gorgeous interior and I enjoyed them. It was a nice relaxing way to end the trip. After, we headed back to where we stayed to pick up our luggage and head to the airport. They arranged a cab for us (22 euros) and it took about 30 min to get to the airport.
Overall we had a wonderful trip and I loved the opportunity to break out of my western Europe bubble. Looking back, I think I would allow for more time in Vienna, and although I enjoyed Budapest, I could have done without it.
Best wishes on your travels, hope this is helpful!
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