Trip Report – Venice, Positano & Rome (LONG)
Jul 6th, 2005, 12:24 PM
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Trip Report – Venice, Positano & Rome (LONG)
Thank you so much Fodorites! I spent a lot of time reading through threads and posted some of my own questions during the planning of my honeymoon in Italy and we had a wonderful time. This was my first time in Italy. I know it is kind of long, I have a tendency to babble.
We flew on American Airlines from JFK to Venice with a change in Brussels. Due to sitting in the plane for 2 hours before we finally departed we wound up missing our connection and had to spend a few extra hours at the Brussels airport. Luckily we were able to upgrade to business class on the way there so I did get a few hours of good sleep on the plane, but we were still pretty tired when we finally arrived to Venice. I was really surprised that once in Venice we never had to go through customs, and we never even had to show our passport (although they did stamp it in Brussels). We opted for the Alilaguna boat rather than a private water taxi to save a little money. The trip to St. Mark’s was uneventful. It was a little foggy and rainy so we didn’t really get to appreciate the scenery coming in. Finding our hotel was a little challenging. We stayed at the Locanda Orseolo, which we really enjoyed. The location was perfect. It was so close to St. Mark’s but yet it was still quiet and private. The owners and staff were wonderful. They were always very friendly and helpful. We stayed in a deluxe room the first two nights and had to move to a standard for the 3rd night, since we added the 3rd night after making our original reservation that was all that was available. The deluxe was more spacious, but I think if I were to go back I would opt for the standard. We were never in our room except to sleep so the extra Euro could have been used elsewhere. I don’t remember the exact price difference but I think it was 30 or 40 Euro per night. In the mornings they had out a nice breakfast spread of pastries, croissants, cheese & salami, fresh fruits & cereals. In addition to that Matteo would make omelets or crepes to order, which were delicious.
It was already late afternoon by the time we arrived in Venice so after a shower and unpacking we decided we would just walk around for a while and try to have an early night since we were exhausted. Barbara (one of the owners of our hotel) had advised us on a few good restaurants and had told us we may want to avoid the places close to the square, but we were so tired and didn’t want to make a big deal out of dinner so we did stop at a place about a block away from the square and it made us wish we had listened to her. I do not remember the name of the place but the food was not very good and the service was even worse. We may as well have been sitting at the same table as the people next to us we were so close.
The 2nd day we had a reservation for St. Mark’s Basilica. It was free to make a reservation on-line and we were very glad we did. The line to enter was very long. At first I wasn’t sure where to go, so I went up to the gentlemen at the door and showed him my printed off confirmation and he just waved us in. A few people in line did shoot us dirty looks, but I didn’t really feel bad since I took the time to research and plan. It was very nice to see but neither of us really knew much of the history and there wasn’t much time or room to stop and really get a good look at everything. You just had to keep moving along so everyone else could get through. We spent the rest of the day just wandering around. We went to the Rialto bridge and then just walked further out where it was less touristy. I think just the walking around was my favorite part of Venice. It is very interesting.
The next day we did the Secret Itinerary at Dogge’s Palace (which was something else I had booked ahead on-line). We both really enjoyed that. Our guide was very good at telling us the history. If we did not do the Secret Itinerary I don’t think we would have enjoyed the Palace as much, since beforehand we really didn’t even know what the Dogge’s Palace was. Once the tour was over we spent about another hour exploring on our own. That night we decided to take a gondola ride. We had been debating because there were so many of them it didn’t seem very special. But whenever I thought of going to Venice I thought about the gondolas, so I felt like I had to do it or I may regret it. So we bought a bottle of wine and decided to go for it. It was pretty going up the canals, a completely different way to see Venice but unless you really have your heart set on it, I would say save your money. There are just so many of them and I feel like our driver was trying to rush through it. He didn’t care if we were having a good time or not.
We liked Venice but we were ready to move on. We didn’t really have a desire to visit the islands so we felt that there wasn’t really much else that would interest us there. We were glad we went but 2 full days was enough.
The following day we had to rise early to catch the boat to the airport where we would be taking a flight to Naples. We arrived at that airport about an hour and half before our flight and it was a good thing we did. The lines to check in were very long and barely moved. We were in line a good 45 minutes just to check in, and then the security lines were just as bad. There were a lot of people in line who had flights that were in “Last Call” status. So after about another 30 minutes or so we finally got to our gate. So my advice would be if you are flying out of Venice airport give yourself plenty of time!
We flew from Venice to Naples on Alitalia. When exploring different travel options I went on the US version of Alitalia website and they wanted around $250 each for a one-way ticket. I then used the Italian version and they were only 70 Euro each, so we wound up spending $200 instead of $500. So I figured we could save a little time over a train. I had arranged to have a driver meet us at the airport to take us to Positano. I used Renato Cuomo (a Fodor suggestion) and our driver was excellent. He was friendly and filled us in on some history along the way. Then he stopped and got us each a frozen lemon slush from a roadside stand. He stopped at a very scenic point so we could see the view and get a few pictures. The cost was reasonable, 70 Euro. Another company quoted us 100 Euro so I feel as though we got a good deal. As we started to get close he called our hotel – Albergo Miramare – to let them know we would be arriving soon. So once we pulled up there were two porters there, waiting to take our luggage down all of the stairs to the hotel. Once we walked into our room and out on the balcony it took our breath away – the view was outstanding! We stayed in Room 207, a deluxe room but not one of the “special” rooms. The room was very spacious; there was a room with a coach & desk, then the room with the bed, where the balcony was located. Our balcony had a 2 chaise lounges, a table and 2 chairs. We loved sitting out there and felt it was very private. We could not see the balcony next door.
We decided to take our first trip down to the beach area. As we were walking down the 200+ stairs we commented that the stairs weren’t bad, but I will say we took the comment back when we had to go back up! They did get a little tiring, especially since we went up and down about 3 times a day. But it was bearable and at least we got some exercise in. I would definitely return to Positano and the Miramare. The breakfast was nice and the room that it was served on was very nice.
We spent 6 nights in Positano. During the day we went to the beach a few times, we rented boats a few days and we took a day trip to Capri. When we were signing up the woman told us we should go Sunday. She said everyone thinks Sundays will be so busy so they don’t sign up but Sunday’s aren’t bad. So we fell for it. I think she just wanted to sell the remaining seats. It was so busy we would be at a complete stand still walking around. Even our taxi driver there told us it is crazy to come on a Sunday. I really wanted to do the chair lift to the top but my husband has a fear of heights so we decided against it. I think Capri was beautiful but if I were to return I would make sure to spend a night or two there rather than just a day trip. We had two options to get us there: a ferry or a speedboat. We opted for the speedboat (I think it was 15 Euro more each) and were glad we did. There were only 13 of us on the boat and we had a great driver. We went around the outside of the island and he showed a lot of the different caves and beautiful scenery and then we stopped at the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto was very busy so we had to wait for approx an hour for the smaller row boats to come over to pick us up to bring us in. It was very beautiful. We were part of the first group so we were sitting on the boat waiting for the rest of our group. My husband was standing on the back of the boat and fell in the water! It was very funny. The whole group got a good laugh out of that.
Capri was the only day trip we took. We decided after that we weren’t really day trip people. I don’t feel we can really enjoy a place by just spending a few hours there and shopping. That is just us – I know there are many people who loved doing the day trips and seeing as many places as possible.
We had dinner at the Palazzo Murat twice, which we highly recommend. We went there based on a recommendation from our hotel (I think they have the same owners), and really loved it. Great food & service.
We were sad to say good-bye to Positano. We are hoping to go back.
I had made train reservations ahead of time from Salerno to Rome. I was a little leery of the Naples train station so figured this would be a good way to go. I did find out the first ferry leaves Positano at 10:00 and is supposed to arrive Salerno at 11:10. We then had to find our way to the train station to catch a 11:40 train. I did post here the day before to see if people thought we could make it. We decided to take the gamble rather than leave hours earlier on a bus (our hotel recommended a 7:00 bus). The gamble paid off we did make it on time, with about 10 minutes to spare but then just as we got to the platform they announced that it would be delayed ½ hour. We had ticketless 1st class seats, which I was told on Fodors all we had to do was board. Well as we are standing there waiting to board we see everyone has tickets so we are getting a little nervous. Then I asked two people who were on our ferry and she said she punched her code into a machine and tickets came out. So then I started second guessing myself, even though I do remember “self ticket” and “ticketless” were two different options. So I decide to go back down to see if I had to do that but as I’m walking down the stairs they announce the arrival of our train so there was no time. We boarded the train and there are coats and newspapers in our seats so now we’re pretty sure we screwed something up, although we did happened to board on the cart where our seats were, which was luck because we were pretty unorganized. After a few minutes the two gentlemen came back and just took there stuff and moved so then we started to feel better. About a ½ hour into the journey they came up the aisle to check tickets. I am watching him get closer and closer and do not see one person with just a code like I had so I was getting really nervous. But once he got to us he pulled out a little hand held device and punched my code in and a receipt printed out (huge sigh of relief). Sorry for doubting Fodors! Thanks Ira!
When we arrived in Rome I was sorry I had not figured out ahead of time the best way to get to our hotel so we decide to just take a cab. The first person we asked was not in a regular taxi but a sedan and said 25 Euro. We thought that sounded a little high, we wound up going with a metered taxi and it was only 15 Euro, and we were lost for a few minutes. I don’t think he was lost on purpose because some of the roads were closed, there was some political convention going on and we did stop and ask Police a few times. But we finally made it to the hotel, the Albergo Del Senato. Another great recommendation from Fodorites. The location was perfect. Our room was top floor center and had a tiny balcony that overlooked the Pantheon. The roof top bar was fantastic. What a view!
When we first arrived in Rome we were not sure if we were going to like it since it is such a busy city and we are not really city people but we really had a good time. The first night we just walked around and sat out in the Piazza by our hotel.
The next day we met up with two of my girlfriends. We walked through the Pantheon, went to the Trevi Fountain, the Museum of Rome and then walked over to the Vatican where we were meeting our guide. The guide we used was Daniella Hunt (Mirabilia Urbis Tours). She was wonderful – she was very knowledgeable and excited about everything. And it was only us, not a group tour so we were able to ask a lot of questions as we went along. We went at 1:00 as to avoid the morning lines and we did not have to wait in line at all which was great. She also gave us a great recommendation for dinner and it was right near our hotel. The restaurant was called “Armando” al Pantheon and we did not have a reservation, so we weren’t sure if we would be able to get a table or not. The man working did not really speak much English so we thought we were being turned away but we were still outside a few minutes later and a table was leaving. I think we were the only tourists in there which I found strange due to the location, but it was a fantastic meal.
The following day we had booked a group tour of the Coliseum, you don’t really need to book it ahead of time but we did just to be safe. The tour was with Roman Promenades. Once we arrived (10 minutes early) they took our money and told us “ you are with this group” which had already started, but ok we figured we didn’t miss much. There were around 15 ppl in the group. So as we are sitting there they keep adding more and more people to our group (we are still outside at this point, as he is telling the history). I think we wound up with about 40 people total which was disappointing because it was hard to hear after awhile or follow the group. It was an additional 10 Euro plus the admission cost so it wasn’t expensive, but they made 40 Euro just off of the four of us. It was worth it though, because the line was very long and we got to skip right over that. I think people were getting out of line and buying tickets for our group just to skip the line. The guide was wonderful, it just would have been much better if there weren’t so many people.
We decided to meet our friends at The Spanish Steps later that night for dinner since we had not been to this area yet. Originally I was looking at staying there and I am so glad we didn’t. It was so crowded in that area. After dinner we wound up back at our hotel for drinks on the rooftop bar. We really loved sitting up there.
Then it was time to say good-bye to Italy. We had the hotel arrange a driver to bring us to the airport the next day. We didn’t want to try to navigate the bus system early in the morning and with luggage. We had seen some buses pass us that were so full of people, it may have been tough with luggage.
We can’t wait to go back!
We flew on American Airlines from JFK to Venice with a change in Brussels. Due to sitting in the plane for 2 hours before we finally departed we wound up missing our connection and had to spend a few extra hours at the Brussels airport. Luckily we were able to upgrade to business class on the way there so I did get a few hours of good sleep on the plane, but we were still pretty tired when we finally arrived to Venice. I was really surprised that once in Venice we never had to go through customs, and we never even had to show our passport (although they did stamp it in Brussels). We opted for the Alilaguna boat rather than a private water taxi to save a little money. The trip to St. Mark’s was uneventful. It was a little foggy and rainy so we didn’t really get to appreciate the scenery coming in. Finding our hotel was a little challenging. We stayed at the Locanda Orseolo, which we really enjoyed. The location was perfect. It was so close to St. Mark’s but yet it was still quiet and private. The owners and staff were wonderful. They were always very friendly and helpful. We stayed in a deluxe room the first two nights and had to move to a standard for the 3rd night, since we added the 3rd night after making our original reservation that was all that was available. The deluxe was more spacious, but I think if I were to go back I would opt for the standard. We were never in our room except to sleep so the extra Euro could have been used elsewhere. I don’t remember the exact price difference but I think it was 30 or 40 Euro per night. In the mornings they had out a nice breakfast spread of pastries, croissants, cheese & salami, fresh fruits & cereals. In addition to that Matteo would make omelets or crepes to order, which were delicious.
It was already late afternoon by the time we arrived in Venice so after a shower and unpacking we decided we would just walk around for a while and try to have an early night since we were exhausted. Barbara (one of the owners of our hotel) had advised us on a few good restaurants and had told us we may want to avoid the places close to the square, but we were so tired and didn’t want to make a big deal out of dinner so we did stop at a place about a block away from the square and it made us wish we had listened to her. I do not remember the name of the place but the food was not very good and the service was even worse. We may as well have been sitting at the same table as the people next to us we were so close.
The 2nd day we had a reservation for St. Mark’s Basilica. It was free to make a reservation on-line and we were very glad we did. The line to enter was very long. At first I wasn’t sure where to go, so I went up to the gentlemen at the door and showed him my printed off confirmation and he just waved us in. A few people in line did shoot us dirty looks, but I didn’t really feel bad since I took the time to research and plan. It was very nice to see but neither of us really knew much of the history and there wasn’t much time or room to stop and really get a good look at everything. You just had to keep moving along so everyone else could get through. We spent the rest of the day just wandering around. We went to the Rialto bridge and then just walked further out where it was less touristy. I think just the walking around was my favorite part of Venice. It is very interesting.
The next day we did the Secret Itinerary at Dogge’s Palace (which was something else I had booked ahead on-line). We both really enjoyed that. Our guide was very good at telling us the history. If we did not do the Secret Itinerary I don’t think we would have enjoyed the Palace as much, since beforehand we really didn’t even know what the Dogge’s Palace was. Once the tour was over we spent about another hour exploring on our own. That night we decided to take a gondola ride. We had been debating because there were so many of them it didn’t seem very special. But whenever I thought of going to Venice I thought about the gondolas, so I felt like I had to do it or I may regret it. So we bought a bottle of wine and decided to go for it. It was pretty going up the canals, a completely different way to see Venice but unless you really have your heart set on it, I would say save your money. There are just so many of them and I feel like our driver was trying to rush through it. He didn’t care if we were having a good time or not.
We liked Venice but we were ready to move on. We didn’t really have a desire to visit the islands so we felt that there wasn’t really much else that would interest us there. We were glad we went but 2 full days was enough.
The following day we had to rise early to catch the boat to the airport where we would be taking a flight to Naples. We arrived at that airport about an hour and half before our flight and it was a good thing we did. The lines to check in were very long and barely moved. We were in line a good 45 minutes just to check in, and then the security lines were just as bad. There were a lot of people in line who had flights that were in “Last Call” status. So after about another 30 minutes or so we finally got to our gate. So my advice would be if you are flying out of Venice airport give yourself plenty of time!
We flew from Venice to Naples on Alitalia. When exploring different travel options I went on the US version of Alitalia website and they wanted around $250 each for a one-way ticket. I then used the Italian version and they were only 70 Euro each, so we wound up spending $200 instead of $500. So I figured we could save a little time over a train. I had arranged to have a driver meet us at the airport to take us to Positano. I used Renato Cuomo (a Fodor suggestion) and our driver was excellent. He was friendly and filled us in on some history along the way. Then he stopped and got us each a frozen lemon slush from a roadside stand. He stopped at a very scenic point so we could see the view and get a few pictures. The cost was reasonable, 70 Euro. Another company quoted us 100 Euro so I feel as though we got a good deal. As we started to get close he called our hotel – Albergo Miramare – to let them know we would be arriving soon. So once we pulled up there were two porters there, waiting to take our luggage down all of the stairs to the hotel. Once we walked into our room and out on the balcony it took our breath away – the view was outstanding! We stayed in Room 207, a deluxe room but not one of the “special” rooms. The room was very spacious; there was a room with a coach & desk, then the room with the bed, where the balcony was located. Our balcony had a 2 chaise lounges, a table and 2 chairs. We loved sitting out there and felt it was very private. We could not see the balcony next door.
We decided to take our first trip down to the beach area. As we were walking down the 200+ stairs we commented that the stairs weren’t bad, but I will say we took the comment back when we had to go back up! They did get a little tiring, especially since we went up and down about 3 times a day. But it was bearable and at least we got some exercise in. I would definitely return to Positano and the Miramare. The breakfast was nice and the room that it was served on was very nice.
We spent 6 nights in Positano. During the day we went to the beach a few times, we rented boats a few days and we took a day trip to Capri. When we were signing up the woman told us we should go Sunday. She said everyone thinks Sundays will be so busy so they don’t sign up but Sunday’s aren’t bad. So we fell for it. I think she just wanted to sell the remaining seats. It was so busy we would be at a complete stand still walking around. Even our taxi driver there told us it is crazy to come on a Sunday. I really wanted to do the chair lift to the top but my husband has a fear of heights so we decided against it. I think Capri was beautiful but if I were to return I would make sure to spend a night or two there rather than just a day trip. We had two options to get us there: a ferry or a speedboat. We opted for the speedboat (I think it was 15 Euro more each) and were glad we did. There were only 13 of us on the boat and we had a great driver. We went around the outside of the island and he showed a lot of the different caves and beautiful scenery and then we stopped at the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto was very busy so we had to wait for approx an hour for the smaller row boats to come over to pick us up to bring us in. It was very beautiful. We were part of the first group so we were sitting on the boat waiting for the rest of our group. My husband was standing on the back of the boat and fell in the water! It was very funny. The whole group got a good laugh out of that.
Capri was the only day trip we took. We decided after that we weren’t really day trip people. I don’t feel we can really enjoy a place by just spending a few hours there and shopping. That is just us – I know there are many people who loved doing the day trips and seeing as many places as possible.
We had dinner at the Palazzo Murat twice, which we highly recommend. We went there based on a recommendation from our hotel (I think they have the same owners), and really loved it. Great food & service.
We were sad to say good-bye to Positano. We are hoping to go back.
I had made train reservations ahead of time from Salerno to Rome. I was a little leery of the Naples train station so figured this would be a good way to go. I did find out the first ferry leaves Positano at 10:00 and is supposed to arrive Salerno at 11:10. We then had to find our way to the train station to catch a 11:40 train. I did post here the day before to see if people thought we could make it. We decided to take the gamble rather than leave hours earlier on a bus (our hotel recommended a 7:00 bus). The gamble paid off we did make it on time, with about 10 minutes to spare but then just as we got to the platform they announced that it would be delayed ½ hour. We had ticketless 1st class seats, which I was told on Fodors all we had to do was board. Well as we are standing there waiting to board we see everyone has tickets so we are getting a little nervous. Then I asked two people who were on our ferry and she said she punched her code into a machine and tickets came out. So then I started second guessing myself, even though I do remember “self ticket” and “ticketless” were two different options. So I decide to go back down to see if I had to do that but as I’m walking down the stairs they announce the arrival of our train so there was no time. We boarded the train and there are coats and newspapers in our seats so now we’re pretty sure we screwed something up, although we did happened to board on the cart where our seats were, which was luck because we were pretty unorganized. After a few minutes the two gentlemen came back and just took there stuff and moved so then we started to feel better. About a ½ hour into the journey they came up the aisle to check tickets. I am watching him get closer and closer and do not see one person with just a code like I had so I was getting really nervous. But once he got to us he pulled out a little hand held device and punched my code in and a receipt printed out (huge sigh of relief). Sorry for doubting Fodors! Thanks Ira!
When we arrived in Rome I was sorry I had not figured out ahead of time the best way to get to our hotel so we decide to just take a cab. The first person we asked was not in a regular taxi but a sedan and said 25 Euro. We thought that sounded a little high, we wound up going with a metered taxi and it was only 15 Euro, and we were lost for a few minutes. I don’t think he was lost on purpose because some of the roads were closed, there was some political convention going on and we did stop and ask Police a few times. But we finally made it to the hotel, the Albergo Del Senato. Another great recommendation from Fodorites. The location was perfect. Our room was top floor center and had a tiny balcony that overlooked the Pantheon. The roof top bar was fantastic. What a view!
When we first arrived in Rome we were not sure if we were going to like it since it is such a busy city and we are not really city people but we really had a good time. The first night we just walked around and sat out in the Piazza by our hotel.
The next day we met up with two of my girlfriends. We walked through the Pantheon, went to the Trevi Fountain, the Museum of Rome and then walked over to the Vatican where we were meeting our guide. The guide we used was Daniella Hunt (Mirabilia Urbis Tours). She was wonderful – she was very knowledgeable and excited about everything. And it was only us, not a group tour so we were able to ask a lot of questions as we went along. We went at 1:00 as to avoid the morning lines and we did not have to wait in line at all which was great. She also gave us a great recommendation for dinner and it was right near our hotel. The restaurant was called “Armando” al Pantheon and we did not have a reservation, so we weren’t sure if we would be able to get a table or not. The man working did not really speak much English so we thought we were being turned away but we were still outside a few minutes later and a table was leaving. I think we were the only tourists in there which I found strange due to the location, but it was a fantastic meal.
The following day we had booked a group tour of the Coliseum, you don’t really need to book it ahead of time but we did just to be safe. The tour was with Roman Promenades. Once we arrived (10 minutes early) they took our money and told us “ you are with this group” which had already started, but ok we figured we didn’t miss much. There were around 15 ppl in the group. So as we are sitting there they keep adding more and more people to our group (we are still outside at this point, as he is telling the history). I think we wound up with about 40 people total which was disappointing because it was hard to hear after awhile or follow the group. It was an additional 10 Euro plus the admission cost so it wasn’t expensive, but they made 40 Euro just off of the four of us. It was worth it though, because the line was very long and we got to skip right over that. I think people were getting out of line and buying tickets for our group just to skip the line. The guide was wonderful, it just would have been much better if there weren’t so many people.
We decided to meet our friends at The Spanish Steps later that night for dinner since we had not been to this area yet. Originally I was looking at staying there and I am so glad we didn’t. It was so crowded in that area. After dinner we wound up back at our hotel for drinks on the rooftop bar. We really loved sitting up there.
Then it was time to say good-bye to Italy. We had the hotel arrange a driver to bring us to the airport the next day. We didn’t want to try to navigate the bus system early in the morning and with luggage. We had seen some buses pass us that were so full of people, it may have been tough with luggage.
We can’t wait to go back!
Jul 6th, 2005, 03:07 PM
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He was a good sport about when he fell in. We bought him a dry shirt when we got off the boat. He was wishing for a shower to wash off the salt water but it wasn't too bad. Now if he would have fallen into a Venice canal that may have been a different story...
I do not remember which site I booked the Basilica on ahead of time but I think I still have all of my confirmations on my work computer. I will try to find it tomorrow and let you know.
I do not remember which site I booked the Basilica on ahead of time but I think I still have all of my confirmations on my work computer. I will try to find it tomorrow and let you know.
Jul 6th, 2005, 03:14 PM
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I just found the print out. I booked the San Marco Basilica at www.alata.it
Jul 8th, 2005, 04:32 AM
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They were right on the beach, it was Lucibella or Luciano - Luc something. It was very convenient, no need to book ahead of time they have plenty of boats. And it only took a minute for them to have it ready for us. One day we rented a small boat for 30 Euro an hour and the next time we rented a rubber boat (they have 3 sizes of these) for 60 Euro an hour. We took it pretty far and the water was very calm
Jul 8th, 2005, 05:55 AM
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Jessica,
Do you know how far in advance you booked your St. Mark's reservation? I just tried for October and the website is saying no availability but the schedule shows availability. Anyone else had this problem?
Do you know how far in advance you booked your St. Mark's reservation? I just tried for October and the website is saying no availability but the schedule shows availability. Anyone else had this problem?
Jul 8th, 2005, 07:10 AM
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I booked it in April - so 2 months ahead.
That is strange that it would say it is booked for October. I don't think many people book ahead of time. Try e-mailing them [email protected]
That is strange that it would say it is booked for October. I don't think many people book ahead of time. Try e-mailing them [email protected]
