Trip report Spain and Portugal
Jul 15th, 2009, 11:33 AM
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Trip report Spain and Portugal
June 15: We flew from Seattle, spent 8 hours at LAX sleeping, flew to Miami on AA, then flew to Madrid via Iberia Airlines.
June 16: Arrived in Madrid sans luggage which got left in Miami. Very easy to get taxis to hotel. We pre-arranged a shuttle but it turns out we miss-typed the date so no one was there to get us. At the booth, we were told if we could wait for an hour, we could go then. It was so much easier just to go out the door to take a taxi. Checked into Hotel Europa which was a great place to stay. Very friendly, helpful and convienent to metro, prado and National Palace. Actually, this hotel's gaspacho turned out to be one of the best we had in our trip.
June 17: Ahead of time we purchased tickets through Rail Europe and this was an easy, great way to buy tickets. Went to Toledo on the 9:50 a.m. train. Easy 30 min. trip. Long wait for a taxi up the hill. Would have been a serious mistake to try to walk up. We did wish later we had tried to take one of the tour buses that circled the outside of the place before dropping you off in town. Walked up and up in the heat. This was the only cathedral in Spain that required knees to be covered, not good on a hot day but we were very glad we went to this town. We went everywhere using mostly Rick Steve's book as a guide. His books were extremely helpful inside different places that did not have audio guides. Discovered why Spain is noted for cold soup, sangria and fans - it was hot! Left on the 7:30 p..m. train back at 8 to find our luggage at our hotel. YEAH!
June 18: Bought tickets ahead of time for the Prado Museum, good idea. We got there at 9:00 and had to rush to get try to see as much as we could to leave by 2:30 to get to the National Palace. Took the hop on hop off bus to the palace. Very hot on top and below. National Palace was great to see. Found and outdoor cafe that was misting water and had more sangria.
June 19: AVE train to Cordoba (all the trains we went on in Spain had spots for luggage but you need to be first on and grab them quickly). We were so glad we went to Cordoba. Easy city to walk. Stayed at Hotel Marci Alfaros. Nicest hotel we stayed at for the trip. Food in dining room had first class service but food was sub-standard and we aren't picky. We loved, loved seeing the Mesquita. It was stunning as were the gardens of the alcazar. Glad we went, glad we only stayed one night.
June 20: Train to Granada. Stayed at a B&B called Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol. Glad we stayed there but it is not easy to access. You are told to have the taxi drop you off at a restaurant and have them call. Well the "street" is like and alley for 2 way driving, not busy though. The walk down to the hotel in on a steep road that is paved with rocks that are turned sideways. We are so glad we stayed but it would not be a place for the physically challenged. We had bought our tickets for the Alhambra ahead of time (met lots of folks who didn't and they didn't get in at all). The hotel advised us to pick up our tickets that day since we would be going the next morning-wonderful advice. We started by walking downhill to the city center to have lunch. Had a great paella at a place the hotel recommended. Huge though. 3 of us only finished 1/2 of it. We then walked to the bus stop to go uphill on bus #32 to buy our tickets, then walked downhill to the hotel (very close to the Alhambra). Had cava and olives stuffed with anchovies on the terrace of the B&B.
June 21: Breakfast outside, temperature delightful now but we can feel it heating up. Walked uphill to the Alhambra. Very strict rules on time. We were so, so glad we got early morning tickets. Our time was 9:30. YOu are only allowed to enter from 9:30 to 10:00. Keep your tickets, we had to show them over and over. Loved Alhambra and Generalife. Very hot. In hindsight, would have been better to go to the Alcaxaba after the main jewel (the one they are very strict on time) the Palacios Nazaries because it is so hot with no shade. Generalife looks far and it is but it is shaded a lot. Charles V Palace is nothing great but we didn't spend the extra to go the museum. 3:00 Back to the hotel for a siesta since we are very overheated. Between 3 and 6 is the hottest part of the day. Went downhill to see the Cathedral and the chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella are buried. Again glad to have the Rick Steves book for reading, made a difference. Rode the hop on hop off bus all the way around the city. Took the #32 bus back to the Alhambra Palace Hotel and walked down to the B&B.
June 22. Another nice morning. Manuel, the owner, showed us how they eat tomato bread in Spain. Toasted hearty grain bread, a tomato-type spread on top, salt and olive oil. I liked it. Went to the Arabe district. Took #32 bus up to St. Nicolas Plaza stop. You get off and have no idea where to go. Found an elderly man who walked with us to show us the way, very nice. Beautiful views. Mosque closed that month. Had the best food of the trip so far when we ate at an outdoor cafe (called Kiki's I believe). Waiter was the best yet. He spoke a little English but our daughter speaks Spanish and he made some suggestions that turned out to be outstanding. Moroccan beef dish that had raisins and dates served with fried potatoes (these are served everywhere, cooked in olive oil) and a cod and shrimp dish. It was great! Walked around a lot. Plaza Largo not that great. Walked around a lot. Went to an old convent but it was closed. Hot, hot day. Went through the Arabe markets, fun. Hop on hop off bus tickets were good for 2 days to we use it to go back to the hotel. After a much needed rest and showers, we walked to Plaza Nuevo and the walk by the "river" for a nice dinner in a place the hotel recommended. We were below the Alhambra and watched as it lit up for night. Outdoor eating means you put up with sticky, musically-challenged people who play some instrument for a while then come to tables to beg for money. It was a little bothersome but great night.
June 23: Train to Sevilla. Train station in Granada poorly run. They have a luggage scanner which no one was operating but it took the tourists a while to figure out we just go past on on to the train platform. Rush to get on the train for luggage space. We are glad that we bought sandwiches at the station before the ride. We get off at San Juanista (the last stop in Sevilla). We stayed at Hotel Alminar. Nice hotel but noisy at night. We just put in ear plugs and went on. It is near the cathedral so people who stay up later partying will be awoken at 10 ot many church bells.
June 24: We were up early to go on a white villages tour with Paul from Australia. Tour was fine but in hindsight I wish we had made the effort to go to one of the beaches.
June 25: Cathedral. Mass is going on but since we participate, there was no charge but they also kick everyone out and it doesn't open again until 1/2 hour after mass ends. Tomb of Christopher Colombus is here and was easy to visit on our way out of mass. Went to the Alcazar which is lovely. Great cool gardens. Walked forever to get a little lost and finally found Casa de Pilatos. Great day. Hot but actually seemed less than Granada. We had a wonderful, wonderful tapas meal at a place the hotel recommended called Vinos y Tapas. Waiter was supberb and we just took his suggestions. We then walked to a flaminco show. Really nice way to end our trip to Spain.
More later on Portugal
June 16: Arrived in Madrid sans luggage which got left in Miami. Very easy to get taxis to hotel. We pre-arranged a shuttle but it turns out we miss-typed the date so no one was there to get us. At the booth, we were told if we could wait for an hour, we could go then. It was so much easier just to go out the door to take a taxi. Checked into Hotel Europa which was a great place to stay. Very friendly, helpful and convienent to metro, prado and National Palace. Actually, this hotel's gaspacho turned out to be one of the best we had in our trip.
June 17: Ahead of time we purchased tickets through Rail Europe and this was an easy, great way to buy tickets. Went to Toledo on the 9:50 a.m. train. Easy 30 min. trip. Long wait for a taxi up the hill. Would have been a serious mistake to try to walk up. We did wish later we had tried to take one of the tour buses that circled the outside of the place before dropping you off in town. Walked up and up in the heat. This was the only cathedral in Spain that required knees to be covered, not good on a hot day but we were very glad we went to this town. We went everywhere using mostly Rick Steve's book as a guide. His books were extremely helpful inside different places that did not have audio guides. Discovered why Spain is noted for cold soup, sangria and fans - it was hot! Left on the 7:30 p..m. train back at 8 to find our luggage at our hotel. YEAH!
June 18: Bought tickets ahead of time for the Prado Museum, good idea. We got there at 9:00 and had to rush to get try to see as much as we could to leave by 2:30 to get to the National Palace. Took the hop on hop off bus to the palace. Very hot on top and below. National Palace was great to see. Found and outdoor cafe that was misting water and had more sangria.
June 19: AVE train to Cordoba (all the trains we went on in Spain had spots for luggage but you need to be first on and grab them quickly). We were so glad we went to Cordoba. Easy city to walk. Stayed at Hotel Marci Alfaros. Nicest hotel we stayed at for the trip. Food in dining room had first class service but food was sub-standard and we aren't picky. We loved, loved seeing the Mesquita. It was stunning as were the gardens of the alcazar. Glad we went, glad we only stayed one night.
June 20: Train to Granada. Stayed at a B&B called Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol. Glad we stayed there but it is not easy to access. You are told to have the taxi drop you off at a restaurant and have them call. Well the "street" is like and alley for 2 way driving, not busy though. The walk down to the hotel in on a steep road that is paved with rocks that are turned sideways. We are so glad we stayed but it would not be a place for the physically challenged. We had bought our tickets for the Alhambra ahead of time (met lots of folks who didn't and they didn't get in at all). The hotel advised us to pick up our tickets that day since we would be going the next morning-wonderful advice. We started by walking downhill to the city center to have lunch. Had a great paella at a place the hotel recommended. Huge though. 3 of us only finished 1/2 of it. We then walked to the bus stop to go uphill on bus #32 to buy our tickets, then walked downhill to the hotel (very close to the Alhambra). Had cava and olives stuffed with anchovies on the terrace of the B&B.
June 21: Breakfast outside, temperature delightful now but we can feel it heating up. Walked uphill to the Alhambra. Very strict rules on time. We were so, so glad we got early morning tickets. Our time was 9:30. YOu are only allowed to enter from 9:30 to 10:00. Keep your tickets, we had to show them over and over. Loved Alhambra and Generalife. Very hot. In hindsight, would have been better to go to the Alcaxaba after the main jewel (the one they are very strict on time) the Palacios Nazaries because it is so hot with no shade. Generalife looks far and it is but it is shaded a lot. Charles V Palace is nothing great but we didn't spend the extra to go the museum. 3:00 Back to the hotel for a siesta since we are very overheated. Between 3 and 6 is the hottest part of the day. Went downhill to see the Cathedral and the chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella are buried. Again glad to have the Rick Steves book for reading, made a difference. Rode the hop on hop off bus all the way around the city. Took the #32 bus back to the Alhambra Palace Hotel and walked down to the B&B.
June 22. Another nice morning. Manuel, the owner, showed us how they eat tomato bread in Spain. Toasted hearty grain bread, a tomato-type spread on top, salt and olive oil. I liked it. Went to the Arabe district. Took #32 bus up to St. Nicolas Plaza stop. You get off and have no idea where to go. Found an elderly man who walked with us to show us the way, very nice. Beautiful views. Mosque closed that month. Had the best food of the trip so far when we ate at an outdoor cafe (called Kiki's I believe). Waiter was the best yet. He spoke a little English but our daughter speaks Spanish and he made some suggestions that turned out to be outstanding. Moroccan beef dish that had raisins and dates served with fried potatoes (these are served everywhere, cooked in olive oil) and a cod and shrimp dish. It was great! Walked around a lot. Plaza Largo not that great. Walked around a lot. Went to an old convent but it was closed. Hot, hot day. Went through the Arabe markets, fun. Hop on hop off bus tickets were good for 2 days to we use it to go back to the hotel. After a much needed rest and showers, we walked to Plaza Nuevo and the walk by the "river" for a nice dinner in a place the hotel recommended. We were below the Alhambra and watched as it lit up for night. Outdoor eating means you put up with sticky, musically-challenged people who play some instrument for a while then come to tables to beg for money. It was a little bothersome but great night.
June 23: Train to Sevilla. Train station in Granada poorly run. They have a luggage scanner which no one was operating but it took the tourists a while to figure out we just go past on on to the train platform. Rush to get on the train for luggage space. We are glad that we bought sandwiches at the station before the ride. We get off at San Juanista (the last stop in Sevilla). We stayed at Hotel Alminar. Nice hotel but noisy at night. We just put in ear plugs and went on. It is near the cathedral so people who stay up later partying will be awoken at 10 ot many church bells.
June 24: We were up early to go on a white villages tour with Paul from Australia. Tour was fine but in hindsight I wish we had made the effort to go to one of the beaches.
June 25: Cathedral. Mass is going on but since we participate, there was no charge but they also kick everyone out and it doesn't open again until 1/2 hour after mass ends. Tomb of Christopher Colombus is here and was easy to visit on our way out of mass. Went to the Alcazar which is lovely. Great cool gardens. Walked forever to get a little lost and finally found Casa de Pilatos. Great day. Hot but actually seemed less than Granada. We had a wonderful, wonderful tapas meal at a place the hotel recommended called Vinos y Tapas. Waiter was supberb and we just took his suggestions. We then walked to a flaminco show. Really nice way to end our trip to Spain.
More later on Portugal
Jul 15th, 2009, 01:12 PM
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I agree ... very interesting reporting, but hard to read.
(Also - it might have been nice to have an overview of the various destinations at the beginning of the report. I will be traveling throughout Spain (Castilla y Leon and Galicia)in the upcoming month, so I would have been interested to see if that's where you were.)
Thanks for taking the time to make the report.
(Also - it might have been nice to have an overview of the various destinations at the beginning of the report. I will be traveling throughout Spain (Castilla y Leon and Galicia)in the upcoming month, so I would have been interested to see if that's where you were.)
Thanks for taking the time to make the report.
Jul 15th, 2009, 07:58 PM
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I guess in my excitment I didn't make it easy to read. Sure am glad I didn't add Portugal. Why don't you ask a question and I'll try to get back instead of me spending wasted time writing.
Jul 16th, 2009, 02:47 AM
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Back again to complete the thought: I DEFINITELY hope you'll add your Portugal experiences, as I've saved the Spain info, and am planning to combine Madrid and a Portugal trip.
Again, thanks for providing so much information!
Again, thanks for providing so much information!
Jul 16th, 2009, 04:14 AM
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wonderer - I don't think your time was wasted at all. I am sorry if my suggestion appeared to make that point.
I would love to read about your Portugal trip ... that's a destination I would love to visit in the future, as I have only been over the border for a half day.
I would love to read about your Portugal trip ... that's a destination I would love to visit in the future, as I have only been over the border for a half day.
Jul 16th, 2009, 01:44 PM
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Cordoba side note:
By the way, one of the things we did in Cordoba was to visit one of only 3 remaining synagogues that were built before the reformation. The other 2 were in Toledo and while they were okay to see, the one in Cordoba had a museum and a great young man who would answer any question. We found out that jews were not allowed to marry until after Franco died (to be married you had to marry in a Catholic church).
June 26:
Sevilla to Lisboa
The transportation between these 2 cities was the most difficult part of the trip to figure out. We didn't want to take a 9 hour bus ride or a 4 hour bus ride to Faro and then drag our luggage to the train station for the rest of the trip and we didn't want to take the AVE back to Madrid then take an overnight train to Lisbon so....we looked into flights. Flights and AVE are expensive, bus is cheap. Air Berlin and TAP were the only ones flying between Sevilla and Lisbon. The Air Berlin flight leaves Sevilla and lands on one of the islands north of Sevilla before going on. We opted for the TAP flight and went through CheapTickets (first experience with them) because we were having trouble with the TAP website. Actually, I think if you call TAP's US # it might be okay. I called them to confirm our cheap tickets flight and they were fine to talk to but cheap tickets worked out great. Sevilla airport fine. 50 minute flight and believe it or not we got a sandwhich and a drink. Small plane though. Even our backpacks wouldn't fit in the overhead. We put it at our feet. Most people had to put a normal carryon below.
Weather here is outstanding. Nice and cool feels about 75, great ocean breeze - it is welcome relief from the intense heat we had in Spain. Lisbon is easy in the sense that as we tried to speak, they would all speak English. I mean it seemed like English was widely accepted. The Portuguese language looks similar to Spanish but when they speak, we couldn't understand it at all. Turns out to be even easier than in Spain because everyone was eager to speak English.
We landed and stayed at Hotel Lisboa Tejo. Okay hotel in the Baxia area. The staff was very helpful. We look the bus to Belem. Very interesting, glad we did this. Just used the Rick Steves book again and did fine. We can see that Lisbon was one of the poorest areas we went through. Had dinner on the ocean there.
June 27
Lisbon
Took the trolley car to the castle and the cathedral. Beautiful views. The castle walls have steep stairs and while there is a hand rail at the main steps, it is for both up and down walkers and once up, there are stairs with no rails. Scared us girls a little.
We walked downhill to the Baxia area, had lunch and thankfully stopped in the Fado museum. We continued our walk to a funicular which took us to Barrio Alto. Only good thing about Barrio Alto was the park where the funicular stops (great views), the very classy Port Wine Institute and Barrio Alto is where we would come back for a Fado show.
Don't remember the name of the Fado show (the hotel recommended it) but it was great. Not full but we seemed to be the only tourists there because the singers would make gestures for everyone to sing and because we felt they were looking at us, we tried to fake what we thought the chorus was. It was great fun and the food was unbelievably outstanding. I had duck, DH had lamb and daughter had salmon. Don't touch the appetizers though. They set down olives, bread and fried sardines. As we had never had sardines that didn't come out of a can, we decided to try them. Well afterwards you find out it was 7.50 Euro EACH person for trying and of the stuff they put out first. The meal was so good, you don't need the other stuff anyway.
Took a taxi home. We couldn't believe the hoards of people on the street at midnight. Not a good area but most people looked young and out to troll for other young people. There were some though that look menacing.
June 28
Train to Sintra, Portugal
Only rainy day. We laughed when we woke up and realized it was pouring with thunder. It was our last day so we decided to go ahead with our plans and we finally used the umbrellas and long pants we packed.
Easy 35-40 min train ride. Loads of trains leave all the time so you do not need to buy in advance just buy that day. Get your ticket validated (just put it on top of an unmanned machine).
Sintra was great. We are so glad we did this and so glad we ended our trip this way. Delightful town. Got the 474 bus right outside the train station and went up to the Pena Palace. By this time, it would only rain lightly on and off for the rest of the day. At the Pena Palace, you buy tickets and get on a trolley to go up the hill. Palace was built by Mad Ludwig's cousin on top of an old Monastery. Nice summer palace of the 1600-1700 kings. We took the bus down the the National Palace, had a great lunch and saw the National Palace. It was fine to visit but not great.
I wish we had more time to visit the beach towns of Portugal. The people were friendly but the country looks like it could use some TLC.
By the way, one of the things we did in Cordoba was to visit one of only 3 remaining synagogues that were built before the reformation. The other 2 were in Toledo and while they were okay to see, the one in Cordoba had a museum and a great young man who would answer any question. We found out that jews were not allowed to marry until after Franco died (to be married you had to marry in a Catholic church).
June 26:
Sevilla to Lisboa
The transportation between these 2 cities was the most difficult part of the trip to figure out. We didn't want to take a 9 hour bus ride or a 4 hour bus ride to Faro and then drag our luggage to the train station for the rest of the trip and we didn't want to take the AVE back to Madrid then take an overnight train to Lisbon so....we looked into flights. Flights and AVE are expensive, bus is cheap. Air Berlin and TAP were the only ones flying between Sevilla and Lisbon. The Air Berlin flight leaves Sevilla and lands on one of the islands north of Sevilla before going on. We opted for the TAP flight and went through CheapTickets (first experience with them) because we were having trouble with the TAP website. Actually, I think if you call TAP's US # it might be okay. I called them to confirm our cheap tickets flight and they were fine to talk to but cheap tickets worked out great. Sevilla airport fine. 50 minute flight and believe it or not we got a sandwhich and a drink. Small plane though. Even our backpacks wouldn't fit in the overhead. We put it at our feet. Most people had to put a normal carryon below.
Weather here is outstanding. Nice and cool feels about 75, great ocean breeze - it is welcome relief from the intense heat we had in Spain. Lisbon is easy in the sense that as we tried to speak, they would all speak English. I mean it seemed like English was widely accepted. The Portuguese language looks similar to Spanish but when they speak, we couldn't understand it at all. Turns out to be even easier than in Spain because everyone was eager to speak English.
We landed and stayed at Hotel Lisboa Tejo. Okay hotel in the Baxia area. The staff was very helpful. We look the bus to Belem. Very interesting, glad we did this. Just used the Rick Steves book again and did fine. We can see that Lisbon was one of the poorest areas we went through. Had dinner on the ocean there.
June 27
Lisbon
Took the trolley car to the castle and the cathedral. Beautiful views. The castle walls have steep stairs and while there is a hand rail at the main steps, it is for both up and down walkers and once up, there are stairs with no rails. Scared us girls a little.
We walked downhill to the Baxia area, had lunch and thankfully stopped in the Fado museum. We continued our walk to a funicular which took us to Barrio Alto. Only good thing about Barrio Alto was the park where the funicular stops (great views), the very classy Port Wine Institute and Barrio Alto is where we would come back for a Fado show.
Don't remember the name of the Fado show (the hotel recommended it) but it was great. Not full but we seemed to be the only tourists there because the singers would make gestures for everyone to sing and because we felt they were looking at us, we tried to fake what we thought the chorus was. It was great fun and the food was unbelievably outstanding. I had duck, DH had lamb and daughter had salmon. Don't touch the appetizers though. They set down olives, bread and fried sardines. As we had never had sardines that didn't come out of a can, we decided to try them. Well afterwards you find out it was 7.50 Euro EACH person for trying and of the stuff they put out first. The meal was so good, you don't need the other stuff anyway.
Took a taxi home. We couldn't believe the hoards of people on the street at midnight. Not a good area but most people looked young and out to troll for other young people. There were some though that look menacing.
June 28
Train to Sintra, Portugal
Only rainy day. We laughed when we woke up and realized it was pouring with thunder. It was our last day so we decided to go ahead with our plans and we finally used the umbrellas and long pants we packed.
Easy 35-40 min train ride. Loads of trains leave all the time so you do not need to buy in advance just buy that day. Get your ticket validated (just put it on top of an unmanned machine).
Sintra was great. We are so glad we did this and so glad we ended our trip this way. Delightful town. Got the 474 bus right outside the train station and went up to the Pena Palace. By this time, it would only rain lightly on and off for the rest of the day. At the Pena Palace, you buy tickets and get on a trolley to go up the hill. Palace was built by Mad Ludwig's cousin on top of an old Monastery. Nice summer palace of the 1600-1700 kings. We took the bus down the the National Palace, had a great lunch and saw the National Palace. It was fine to visit but not great.
I wish we had more time to visit the beach towns of Portugal. The people were friendly but the country looks like it could use some TLC.
Jul 16th, 2009, 05:34 PM
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Hmmm....
Well, Mallorca is part of the Balearic islands which is about a 45 minute flight from Barcelona or Valencia. Sevilla is landlocked. Technically it's northeast of Sevilla but doesn't make alot of sense for a flight to go from Sevilla then NE to Mallorca then back SW to Lisbon. That would be like flying from Atlanta to New York then New York to get to Dallas. Doesn't make alot of sense for a flight to back track like that.
Well, Mallorca is part of the Balearic islands which is about a 45 minute flight from Barcelona or Valencia. Sevilla is landlocked. Technically it's northeast of Sevilla but doesn't make alot of sense for a flight to go from Sevilla then NE to Mallorca then back SW to Lisbon. That would be like flying from Atlanta to New York then New York to get to Dallas. Doesn't make alot of sense for a flight to back track like that.
Jul 17th, 2009, 01:16 PM
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Belem is in Lisbon. I guess we saw more of it because we took the bus. It isn't really poor like Tiajuana or something but it is a lovely area and just seems like they could spiff it up. Portugal on the whole seemed a little more run down than Spain but we are really glad we went.
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