Trip Report - Sicily in 30 days 2016
Apr 17th, 2016, 12:21 PM
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The counter purchase turned out to be roadside assistance but we had not been told about it, so even if we had needed it we would not have claimed as we knew nothing about it!
We did have a good laugh with the Syracuse staff re the young driver charge. We would not have known what the charge was for if we had not demanded a receipt in English. Yes AVIS although were good in Australia with their quotation and help were not good in Sicily. The Syracuse office does have an English woman who now lives in Sicily, so she was able to explain a few things to us.
annhig - I firmly believe that driving in Europe is nothing like driving in Sicily. We too have driven in Europe and had no problems. We also met a young Lithuanian couple who also commented on how difficult and hair-raising driving was in Sicily. The constant need to change gears in tricky situations is nerve racking.
Someone mentioned driving around pesky pedestrians. Given that I am one of the pedestrians I take umbrage at that comment. While Trapani drivers were careful and courteous, here in the south they are the opposite. They don't stop, not even when you are on the zebra crossing. We have often watched the elderly cross and wonder how they manage not to get hit. Other pedestrians must have a death wish. They walk out between parked cars without looking or looking in the opposite direction and then stroll across as if it is a pedestrianized zone!
We did have a good laugh with the Syracuse staff re the young driver charge. We would not have known what the charge was for if we had not demanded a receipt in English. Yes AVIS although were good in Australia with their quotation and help were not good in Sicily. The Syracuse office does have an English woman who now lives in Sicily, so she was able to explain a few things to us.
annhig - I firmly believe that driving in Europe is nothing like driving in Sicily. We too have driven in Europe and had no problems. We also met a young Lithuanian couple who also commented on how difficult and hair-raising driving was in Sicily. The constant need to change gears in tricky situations is nerve racking.
Someone mentioned driving around pesky pedestrians. Given that I am one of the pedestrians I take umbrage at that comment. While Trapani drivers were careful and courteous, here in the south they are the opposite. They don't stop, not even when you are on the zebra crossing. We have often watched the elderly cross and wonder how they manage not to get hit. Other pedestrians must have a death wish. They walk out between parked cars without looking or looking in the opposite direction and then stroll across as if it is a pedestrianized zone!
Apr 17th, 2016, 12:33 PM
#42
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thursdayd - they could not have mistaken us for Americans. Our passports clearly indicate Australian and we make sure we indicate that we are from Australia. Our Australian credit cards to not have car insurance attached to them and our booking in Australia with AVIS clearly indicated that CDW and theft were covered. Either one is covered or one is not. Trapani first said that the clause was not valid and when we said that we would be complaining to AVIS head office, they then indicated that the it only covered the basic - how basic is theft or collision? We have read reports that the Italian vehicle rental companies will try to add on costs not required. AVIS Trapani certainly did. They were really very annoyed when we would not pay the extra E55+ per day. They certainly added three costs we had no idea about, the young drivers (ha ha) road tax (perhaps that is valid) and the counter charge which we knew nothing about.
Apr 17th, 2016, 12:48 PM
#43
I bet they were annoyed that you wouldn't pay the €55 per day - it must have put a serious hole in their personal profits! And i can't see how the road tax is valid either - surely AVIS had already paid the road tax on their hire car?
Thank you for posting this, Rasputin - I'm certainly going to be very careful when the time comes for us to pick up our car in Syracuse.
Thank you for posting this, Rasputin - I'm certainly going to be very careful when the time comes for us to pick up our car in Syracuse.
Apr 17th, 2016, 01:05 PM
#44
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 6
Selinunte to Agrigento
Drove off excited to be visiting Sciacca (Pr SHAAKA). Met with a mess of roads. No signage in Sciacca. One could obviously not drive into the old town - some beautiful churches. However no parking to be had anywhere and the traffic and narrow streets were a forecast of what was to come. After following the signs to centro and driving around in circles three times, Peter agreed to ask directions for leaving Sciacca from a petrol station attendant. Needless to say the exit road from Sciacca to Agrigento was not signed - only a blue arrow that could have led to anywhere! Siacca is said to get few visitors. They don't want them!
Porto Empedocle - Inspector Montalbano territory looked just as bad as Sciacca, so we just continued on to Agrigento. Agrigento is spread across a ridge and is quite a magnificent sight. However, it should also be a warning. Again poor signs and heavy traffic. We were headed in all sorts of directions and clearly going out of the main area of town. By some fluke and some assistance of an old man who took me over to the balcony while Peter double parked (he was learning to drive like an Italian!) and showed me where the Piazza Mazzini was and gave directions in broad Sicilian (I cant even understand Italian, let alone Sicilian). Off we went, rechecking with a traffic warden and entered what could only be described as a right angled pedestrian underpass just big enough for our car. By this time I was highly agitated and made Peter stop and take the address of the hotel with him to a bar/tabacci and get directions. He also called the hotel who said we were in the right street to just drive up to the Piazza. As we negotiated another car driven by a blond who had been driving up and down the same street several times while I waited, I saw the name of the hotel on a wall and yelled at Peter to do a hard left into the hole in the wall which emerged into a car park right on the railway line. The car park attendant was helpful, gave us our entry ticket and told us to park and take our luggage around the train!! We did as we were told and lo and behold there was the hotel on the platform! It is a brand new aparthotel, beautifully appointed in modern minimal décor with movement lighting, lighting your way along the corridor. The hotel is not manned and the staff come from somewhere else when you call them on your phone. We immediately unpacked and set out for the Archeological Park.
Selinunte to Agrigento
Drove off excited to be visiting Sciacca (Pr SHAAKA). Met with a mess of roads. No signage in Sciacca. One could obviously not drive into the old town - some beautiful churches. However no parking to be had anywhere and the traffic and narrow streets were a forecast of what was to come. After following the signs to centro and driving around in circles three times, Peter agreed to ask directions for leaving Sciacca from a petrol station attendant. Needless to say the exit road from Sciacca to Agrigento was not signed - only a blue arrow that could have led to anywhere! Siacca is said to get few visitors. They don't want them!
Porto Empedocle - Inspector Montalbano territory looked just as bad as Sciacca, so we just continued on to Agrigento. Agrigento is spread across a ridge and is quite a magnificent sight. However, it should also be a warning. Again poor signs and heavy traffic. We were headed in all sorts of directions and clearly going out of the main area of town. By some fluke and some assistance of an old man who took me over to the balcony while Peter double parked (he was learning to drive like an Italian!) and showed me where the Piazza Mazzini was and gave directions in broad Sicilian (I cant even understand Italian, let alone Sicilian). Off we went, rechecking with a traffic warden and entered what could only be described as a right angled pedestrian underpass just big enough for our car. By this time I was highly agitated and made Peter stop and take the address of the hotel with him to a bar/tabacci and get directions. He also called the hotel who said we were in the right street to just drive up to the Piazza. As we negotiated another car driven by a blond who had been driving up and down the same street several times while I waited, I saw the name of the hotel on a wall and yelled at Peter to do a hard left into the hole in the wall which emerged into a car park right on the railway line. The car park attendant was helpful, gave us our entry ticket and told us to park and take our luggage around the train!! We did as we were told and lo and behold there was the hotel on the platform! It is a brand new aparthotel, beautifully appointed in modern minimal décor with movement lighting, lighting your way along the corridor. The hotel is not manned and the staff come from somewhere else when you call them on your phone. We immediately unpacked and set out for the Archeological Park.
Apr 18th, 2016, 08:04 AM
#46
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Someone mentioned driving around pesky pedestrians. Given that I am one of the pedestrians I take umbrage at that comment." I wrote that and am sorry that you tripped over the intended tongue in cheek aspect of it. We actually saw a police car, lights blazing, come to a complete stop at a cross walk whilst elderly farmer, wife and goat slowly crossed the highway.
But for sure, despite pedestrians having the right of way, one ignores the laws of physics at his/her peril when stepping too abruptly in front of a speeding car or motocicletta.
Looking forward to reading about the aparthotel in Agrigento. DH and I took the bus there from Palermo for our visit. While waiting to return, we walked to the top of the hill and enjoyed the 'regular' town very much.
But for sure, despite pedestrians having the right of way, one ignores the laws of physics at his/her peril when stepping too abruptly in front of a speeding car or motocicletta.
Looking forward to reading about the aparthotel in Agrigento. DH and I took the bus there from Palermo for our visit. While waiting to return, we walked to the top of the hill and enjoyed the 'regular' town very much.
Apr 18th, 2016, 10:53 AM
#47
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agregento Home is within the train station complex. It is a brand new aparthotel built into disused railway buildings. It is very modern and clean. Even though the trains are arriving and departing under your window you don’t really hear them. The annoying things are a constantly ringing bell once a train arrives and the railway staff talking in loud voices under your window. The windows are double glazed. There is a small lift which takes you to the first floor. All rooms are in a corridor with almost fairylike lights along the floor and in alcoves along the way. The lights come on as you walk down the corridor. Look back to see a darkened corridor and uplighting – very nice. The room is small but compact and great for a one or two night stay. Only minimum cutlery and plates for two. Glassware includes wine glasses but no bottle opener. When we rang them to find out where the bottle opener was Erica was annoyed. She said it was down in the cafe and to get it from there. She was also annoyed the next day when we rang early in the morning to get out of the car park – the tokens they had given us did not work. A simple sign in the kitchen regarding the bottle opener would have prevented a call to her as would have an explanation of how to use the tokens in the first place. We are comfortable with unmanned hotels as long as sufficient information is provided. Again as there is no washing up material provided the cleanliness of the cutlery and plates can be questionable. Thoroughly recommend this aparthotel for its location. just a elevator ride away from the bus stop to the Park an a short walk to the Bancomat and Via Athena for shops and passaggiata.
Apr 18th, 2016, 02:21 PM
#48
Thanks annhig for pointing out the possibility of not having to pay the road tax. We will follow that up too.>>
Having followed your experiences with interest, I was looking into our car hire options in Sicily, and looked up the AVIS terms and conditions:
https://www.arguscarhire.com/book/?c...r=0:#/vehicles
under "excess and liability" it says this:
COMPLETE COVER PACKAGE: This cost €28.50 per day with a maximum of €329.40 per month EXCLUDING VAT. This will reduce your excess liability amount to Zero.
so the max you should have been asked for was £28.50 a day, [about €35] not a whopping €77.
and there is nothing here about paying road tax.
Having followed your experiences with interest, I was looking into our car hire options in Sicily, and looked up the AVIS terms and conditions:
https://www.arguscarhire.com/book/?c...r=0:#/vehicles
under "excess and liability" it says this:
COMPLETE COVER PACKAGE: This cost €28.50 per day with a maximum of €329.40 per month EXCLUDING VAT. This will reduce your excess liability amount to Zero.
so the max you should have been asked for was £28.50 a day, [about €35] not a whopping €77.
and there is nothing here about paying road tax.
Apr 18th, 2016, 06:06 PM
#49
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow Rasputin,
I'm sorry to hear your driving experiences are impacting you visit so much. I did buy a Tom Tom and loaded it with the Western European maps, then added detailed Michelin map of Sicily and directions for my lodging along the way. I ended up looking at the map a few times for overall orientation and never did use the printed directions. I have been able to loan the Tom Tom several times to family and friends for their trips so I feel it was a very worthwhile investment.
I had real difficulty finding the right road to Villa Romana too and went round a few times before I saw the little brown and white sign.....seems everyone misses this one!
Other than that, I thought driving in Sicily was very easy and enjoyable, but I learned to drive in Southern California so not much ruffles me. I can certainly understand the extra challenge of driving on the wrong side of the road. I haven't attempted that yet!! If you ever visit California, take a tour. The CA traffic and Afro drivers are about the same as your impression of the Sicilians. ��
I'm sorry to hear your driving experiences are impacting you visit so much. I did buy a Tom Tom and loaded it with the Western European maps, then added detailed Michelin map of Sicily and directions for my lodging along the way. I ended up looking at the map a few times for overall orientation and never did use the printed directions. I have been able to loan the Tom Tom several times to family and friends for their trips so I feel it was a very worthwhile investment.
I had real difficulty finding the right road to Villa Romana too and went round a few times before I saw the little brown and white sign.....seems everyone misses this one!
Other than that, I thought driving in Sicily was very easy and enjoyable, but I learned to drive in Southern California so not much ruffles me. I can certainly understand the extra challenge of driving on the wrong side of the road. I haven't attempted that yet!! If you ever visit California, take a tour. The CA traffic and Afro drivers are about the same as your impression of the Sicilians. ��
Apr 18th, 2016, 08:56 PM
#53
For the iPad:
Settings - General - Keyboard - Auto-Correction
I leave Check Spelling on, it highlights words the software doesn't like, but doesn't alter them.
If it's not an iPad, you should be able to find how to do it by doing a search online.
Settings - General - Keyboard - Auto-Correction
I leave Check Spelling on, it highlights words the software doesn't like, but doesn't alter them.
If it's not an iPad, you should be able to find how to do it by doing a search online.
.
Apr 19th, 2016, 05:55 PM
#57
I am so sorry about the loss of a family member. Even though expected it must be hard to be so far away during a sad time like that.
Your description of driving sounds awful. We did have a similar experience driving in Thailand with the driving on the other side of the road for us. My husband kept turning on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signals. I found it amusing, he found it frustrating. I couldn't imagine driving in Sicily with a manual transmission when used to an automatic & on the "wrong" side of the road. That would be awful. I hope your driving horrors don't impact your feelings about Sicily too much.
For those on their way to Sicily, our driving experiences were very different, but we are Americans and we drive a manual transmission so those aspects were eliminated. We also live in a big city so used to traffic and pedestrians. We used the gps on our ipad and had a Michelin map. In gneral raods were fine and not a lot of traffic. We did drive on some narrow, curvy mountain roads, but it was fine. Towns could be a challenge with their narrow, one way streets. We tried to avoid going into the center of a town and happily parked on the outskirts when we could. And we did get lost, we always get lost and don't really mind -- part of the adventure. We actually find that we sometimes have too much direction info - and that the good ole days with just a paper map was sometimes easier. We loved sicily and driving was not a problem for us. Hope that is the case for those of you headed to Sicily.
Your description of driving sounds awful. We did have a similar experience driving in Thailand with the driving on the other side of the road for us. My husband kept turning on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signals. I found it amusing, he found it frustrating. I couldn't imagine driving in Sicily with a manual transmission when used to an automatic & on the "wrong" side of the road. That would be awful. I hope your driving horrors don't impact your feelings about Sicily too much.
For those on their way to Sicily, our driving experiences were very different, but we are Americans and we drive a manual transmission so those aspects were eliminated. We also live in a big city so used to traffic and pedestrians. We used the gps on our ipad and had a Michelin map. In gneral raods were fine and not a lot of traffic. We did drive on some narrow, curvy mountain roads, but it was fine. Towns could be a challenge with their narrow, one way streets. We tried to avoid going into the center of a town and happily parked on the outskirts when we could. And we did get lost, we always get lost and don't really mind -- part of the adventure. We actually find that we sometimes have too much direction info - and that the good ole days with just a paper map was sometimes easier. We loved sicily and driving was not a problem for us. Hope that is the case for those of you headed to Sicily.
Apr 19th, 2016, 10:04 PM
#58
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Peter was happy to ditch the car in Syracusa and we have continued our journey (as planned) by public transport. The eastern side has better public transport.
We have driven in California, Arizona and Utah without any problems
We have driven in California, Arizona and Utah without any problems
Apr 20th, 2016, 12:04 AM
#59
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yestravel our driving experience was similar to yours. Had a few stories to tell at the end of it but generally didn't mind the driving at all. I purposely rented an automatic just to have one less hassle.
It should be even easier this trip with a SIM card and Google maps.
We haven't had to deal with driving on the opposite side of the road though. I'm not sure I will ever be up for that.
Rasputin I hope you love Siracusa without the car to worry about.
It should be even easier this trip with a SIM card and Google maps.
We haven't had to deal with driving on the opposite side of the road though. I'm not sure I will ever be up for that.
Rasputin I hope you love Siracusa without the car to worry about.
Apr 22nd, 2016, 06:23 AM
#60
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agrigento - Enna - Piazza Armerina - Caltagirone
We did not want to deal with the spaghetti roads of these towns so decided to see them all in one day. Our itinery would have been better had we not got diverted into Caltanissetta and we wasted 1.5 hours trying to get out of there and on to Enna.
We decided not to try to negotiate Enna and parked at the cemetario. Plenty of people around and no characters lurking who might be potential thieves. Also it is just next door and down hill from the local Carabinari. Left our car there for several hours - free of charge. Walked up through the narrow streets (Via V Emanuele, past the church of San Cataldo)looking at all the stone houses while eating a gelati.
San Cataldo and Chiesa San Francesco are sadly closed indefinitely.
Luckily spotted a sign for an information office tucked behind a laneway in Piazza Garibaldi. They were extremely helpful and showed us the small museum they have underneath - lots of old world items and some of the period costumes worn at a particular festival. Best of all they allowed us to use the toilets - no toilet paper ofcourse.
Onwards to see the panorama from the small garden and Via Panoramica Casina Bianca. As Peter was viewing the panorama I decided to take a photograph of the popup cafe Fontana when the senora came out to invite me in. I declined but admired the popup cafe and asked if I could take a photograph of it. When I asked her to be in the photograph she was delighted and posed at the entrance. Then she insisted that I cross the road with her to see the real Fontana restaurant. Something out of this world. It was old world with beautiful timber work and stained glass windows and lights. The menu was exciting but we could not stop for lunch. She again posed happily for photographs and these are on our Facebook page and on TA.
Continue up Via Roma to the Duomo (rebuilt several times since 1307) at Piazza Mazzini. The plain exterior belies the ornamentation inside. And then a laborious climb up Via Lombardia to the Castello di Lombardia. Peter was pretty tired by this stage, so I left him in the info office which also had a video of Enna going. I went to view the Castello and came across a guide who offered free tours. Unfortunately a German couple got in before me and as I could not wait, I climbed (puff puff) the internal stairs of the tower for a wonderful view of the surrounding area. As I returned the guide asked me to wait and he would give me a free tour and explanation, but I had to explain that while I would have loved to hear the history, I had Peter waiting and had to get back otherwise he might get grizzly.
A walk back to Piazza Umberto for an aranchini each at Panetteria Pasticceria Campisi di Campisi Davide. Lunch on the go. Walked through several side streets to discover small local markets (Mercato San Antonio) and more closed churches. A long and hot walk back to the car which was safe and sound. Guided Peter up Via Emanuele and past San Cataldo again to Via Roma, past the Torre di Federico II and on to Piazza Armerina. We could not stop at the red lake because of the time wasted in Caltanissetta. The countryside was pretty uninteresting, but was green. The road was good and again the heavy truck traffic was going in the opposite direction and the traffic on our side was not too heavy. They overtook us anyway even though we were breaking the speed limit!
I have already written about our experience in Piazza Armerina so wont repeat it here.
We finally got to Roman Casale and easily parked the car. There is a charge for the car park which you pay when you leave. Take your ticket with you so that you can pay at the ticket office on your way out of the Villa and then you can drive straight out.
There are several souvenir shops in the middle of the car park all selling the same kitsch. We tried for over 65 tickets but no luck.
We were herded along with several French and German tour groups as well as French and Italian school groups. You can no longer walk along the edge of the mosaics which is bad for photographers but great for preservation of the mosaics. You now walk along catwalks but there is a lot of glare.
Although the mosaics are being preserved, there are many areas where you are walking right over them. There is a lot of restoring going on but the grounds are overgrown. There are benches along the paths down to the main site so you can sit and contemplate or wait until the crowd has passed while you view some Roman ruins. I waited on such benches while Peter muddled around somewhere, much to the amusement of the tour groups!
Tiring of the constant jostling and cacophony of languages, we left. The idea is if you are doing this on your own, then definitely come when it first opens, you might be lucky to avoid at least one tour group. If you are game, stay in Piazza Armerina (it looks an interesting little town) or in Caltagirone.
The road from Roman Casale led back to PA and we were marking time that we would be thrown back into the town, but we managed to note the signs and went via a lovely, though winding road towards Grammichele. Little traffic (thank goodness because of the very winding roads and blind corners) and nice views over the countryside. We saw 'orchards' of prickly pear - they were being farmed in neat orderly lines. The towns were small and uninteresting and then we hit Caltagirone. Oh no, round and round asking people for the public gardens which we knew were near our B & B. We knew our hosts did not speak any English.
When we finally stopped we tried to ring them again and managed to get someone who spoke some English. We were just around the corner!!
I have reviewed Casa Alba on TA but am happy to give my comments (all good) on this particular place if anyone wants. A lovely stay here.
We did not want to deal with the spaghetti roads of these towns so decided to see them all in one day. Our itinery would have been better had we not got diverted into Caltanissetta and we wasted 1.5 hours trying to get out of there and on to Enna.
We decided not to try to negotiate Enna and parked at the cemetario. Plenty of people around and no characters lurking who might be potential thieves. Also it is just next door and down hill from the local Carabinari. Left our car there for several hours - free of charge. Walked up through the narrow streets (Via V Emanuele, past the church of San Cataldo)looking at all the stone houses while eating a gelati.
San Cataldo and Chiesa San Francesco are sadly closed indefinitely.
Luckily spotted a sign for an information office tucked behind a laneway in Piazza Garibaldi. They were extremely helpful and showed us the small museum they have underneath - lots of old world items and some of the period costumes worn at a particular festival. Best of all they allowed us to use the toilets - no toilet paper ofcourse.
Onwards to see the panorama from the small garden and Via Panoramica Casina Bianca. As Peter was viewing the panorama I decided to take a photograph of the popup cafe Fontana when the senora came out to invite me in. I declined but admired the popup cafe and asked if I could take a photograph of it. When I asked her to be in the photograph she was delighted and posed at the entrance. Then she insisted that I cross the road with her to see the real Fontana restaurant. Something out of this world. It was old world with beautiful timber work and stained glass windows and lights. The menu was exciting but we could not stop for lunch. She again posed happily for photographs and these are on our Facebook page and on TA.
Continue up Via Roma to the Duomo (rebuilt several times since 1307) at Piazza Mazzini. The plain exterior belies the ornamentation inside. And then a laborious climb up Via Lombardia to the Castello di Lombardia. Peter was pretty tired by this stage, so I left him in the info office which also had a video of Enna going. I went to view the Castello and came across a guide who offered free tours. Unfortunately a German couple got in before me and as I could not wait, I climbed (puff puff) the internal stairs of the tower for a wonderful view of the surrounding area. As I returned the guide asked me to wait and he would give me a free tour and explanation, but I had to explain that while I would have loved to hear the history, I had Peter waiting and had to get back otherwise he might get grizzly.
A walk back to Piazza Umberto for an aranchini each at Panetteria Pasticceria Campisi di Campisi Davide. Lunch on the go. Walked through several side streets to discover small local markets (Mercato San Antonio) and more closed churches. A long and hot walk back to the car which was safe and sound. Guided Peter up Via Emanuele and past San Cataldo again to Via Roma, past the Torre di Federico II and on to Piazza Armerina. We could not stop at the red lake because of the time wasted in Caltanissetta. The countryside was pretty uninteresting, but was green. The road was good and again the heavy truck traffic was going in the opposite direction and the traffic on our side was not too heavy. They overtook us anyway even though we were breaking the speed limit!
I have already written about our experience in Piazza Armerina so wont repeat it here.
We finally got to Roman Casale and easily parked the car. There is a charge for the car park which you pay when you leave. Take your ticket with you so that you can pay at the ticket office on your way out of the Villa and then you can drive straight out.
There are several souvenir shops in the middle of the car park all selling the same kitsch. We tried for over 65 tickets but no luck.
We were herded along with several French and German tour groups as well as French and Italian school groups. You can no longer walk along the edge of the mosaics which is bad for photographers but great for preservation of the mosaics. You now walk along catwalks but there is a lot of glare.
Although the mosaics are being preserved, there are many areas where you are walking right over them. There is a lot of restoring going on but the grounds are overgrown. There are benches along the paths down to the main site so you can sit and contemplate or wait until the crowd has passed while you view some Roman ruins. I waited on such benches while Peter muddled around somewhere, much to the amusement of the tour groups!
Tiring of the constant jostling and cacophony of languages, we left. The idea is if you are doing this on your own, then definitely come when it first opens, you might be lucky to avoid at least one tour group. If you are game, stay in Piazza Armerina (it looks an interesting little town) or in Caltagirone.
The road from Roman Casale led back to PA and we were marking time that we would be thrown back into the town, but we managed to note the signs and went via a lovely, though winding road towards Grammichele. Little traffic (thank goodness because of the very winding roads and blind corners) and nice views over the countryside. We saw 'orchards' of prickly pear - they were being farmed in neat orderly lines. The towns were small and uninteresting and then we hit Caltagirone. Oh no, round and round asking people for the public gardens which we knew were near our B & B. We knew our hosts did not speak any English.
When we finally stopped we tried to ring them again and managed to get someone who spoke some English. We were just around the corner!!
I have reviewed Casa Alba on TA but am happy to give my comments (all good) on this particular place if anyone wants. A lovely stay here.
