Trip Report - Sicily in 30 days 2016
Apr 24th, 2016, 02:27 AM
#81
thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions, Rasputin, and thank you too Sheilio.
I am more and more leaning to jettisoning Agrigento but as we've got until September we've got a reasonable amount of time to think about it.
Thank goodness for good cancellation terms!
I am more and more leaning to jettisoning Agrigento but as we've got until September we've got a reasonable amount of time to think about it.
Thank goodness for good cancellation terms!
Apr 24th, 2016, 02:56 AM
#82
<<Having seen Modica, Sicili and Noto. I would have avoided Sicili except I was influenced by people who had not had the experience we have had of Baroque architecture in Europe.>>
Do you mean here that you didn't think Scicli was worth the time? Would you elaborate why? Many people say it's a lovely town, one that is "real" (not just touristic), a "Modica-lite: but without all the stairs. I'm curious why you would've avoided it.
Do you mean here that you didn't think Scicli was worth the time? Would you elaborate why? Many people say it's a lovely town, one that is "real" (not just touristic), a "Modica-lite: but without all the stairs. I'm curious why you would've avoided it.
Apr 24th, 2016, 04:03 AM
#83
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Yes Progol We would definitely have avoided Sicili and spent more time in Noto.
Sicili is indeed a small town. The so called Boroque architecture is limited to a couple of grotesque masks over doorways and one or two balcony supports. These are all located in one Palazzo. The tourist office is non existent and there is no good map of Sicili to help you around. The bike store sold us a useless map for E1 and the real estate agent who doubles as an information point also had a map that was near to useless. It is an uphill walk to the church which is closed. The only interesting thing was the caves/storerooms carved into the hill near the church. The main Duomo in the square is plain. The main square too is plain although they are building a café there. I will upload photographs into Trip Advisor soon enough or you can see them on Peter Witton's facebook page next week.
Sicili is indeed a small town. The so called Boroque architecture is limited to a couple of grotesque masks over doorways and one or two balcony supports. These are all located in one Palazzo. The tourist office is non existent and there is no good map of Sicili to help you around. The bike store sold us a useless map for E1 and the real estate agent who doubles as an information point also had a map that was near to useless. It is an uphill walk to the church which is closed. The only interesting thing was the caves/storerooms carved into the hill near the church. The main Duomo in the square is plain. The main square too is plain although they are building a café there. I will upload photographs into Trip Advisor soon enough or you can see them on Peter Witton's facebook page next week.
Apr 24th, 2016, 06:25 AM
#84
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Wow, rasputin. I had a differnt experience in Scicli. I wandered all over and found lots of Baroque architecture. I also took a little tour of a Baroque church that was under restoration. Another I skipped because a baptism was underway. Wandered into another to find a music performance with harpsichord and flute. What a treat to hear a harpsichord live. Definitely a treat for me. Did you not get a chance to see the Costume Museum? Its small, but interesting. A glimpse into the everyday past.
Im sorry it seems that you are not enjoying Sicily, but everyone has their preferences!
I hope the rest of your trip will improve!
Im sorry it seems that you are not enjoying Sicily, but everyone has their preferences!
I hope the rest of your trip will improve!
Apr 26th, 2016, 05:42 AM
#86
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Progol enjoy your time in Sicili. I hope you spend sufficient time in Modica and Noto.
Dayle, perhaps if we had a map pointing out where things were rather than having to waste our time wandering in what was not a visitor oriented town, then we might have liked Sicili. The Boroque centre is very small. No where was there a sign to the costume museum.
The harpsichord and flute performance was a serendipity for you. Not something that anyone else would come across.
We had a similar experience in Lucca, where we were able to listen to some classical music being practiced in a decommissioned church, for an official paid performance later that day. Chance is but chance. We would not however base our view of Lucca on just that one chance experience.
Modica:
We parked near the cemetery and called our B & B who came right away and we followed him to the accommodation. Thank goodness too, we were only five minutes away from where we had stopped but we would never have found the street which was uphill from the main road and unmarked!
A school or office building was opposite and had been closed. Some of the windows had been left open and so the building was now home to the pigeons. Oh what a view they had!
Modica was hidden from our sight when we parked the car at the front door and we were shown our room - furniture very Franco Cozzo (only Melbournians will understand that statement). Then he threw open the French doors to the balcony - and wow - there was Modica in panorama. A million euro view no matter what time of the day. The balcony was the perfect place to enjoy antipasta and wine and watch the city. And even without the antipasta and wine it was a wonderous view.
There was no bus as we had been told, down to Modica or else it ran at some odd hours - we never did find out. We hiked down the steps he showed us - I stopped counting at 600. We realised that we would have climb back again!! It was interesting watching how the people live in the untourist streets. We even found old stone washing stations when the locals would have had to pump water (we found one of those too) and then wash their laundry in the communal stone wash basins. The lanes were narrow and twisting and we did wonder whether we would get lost in the dark when we returned. We had forgotten to take our torch with us.
Soon enough we found ourselves in the main street of Modica. Chocolate and marzipan heaven.
The TO was the best and most helpful we had come across to date and they were at great pains to point out the highlights of their city and make sure that the things we were interested in were covered.
If you are driving into Modica, do be careful where you park and for how long. They have very strict rules. The smartly dressed parking attendants are on the prowl and will have no hesitation fining you. They will however, go out of their way to help a tourist who tries to speak Italian (but not to avoid a fine).
Modica traffic is busy. Park near the bus station and leg it in.
The main street is full of elegant palazzo and lots of trinket and chocolate tasting shops. There are so many choices that even a chocoholic would reach surfeit in no time.
Past the round about there is a supermarket if you want to self cater.
We decided not to venture into one of the obviously touristy chocolate shops and chose a small baker/chocolatier who was not trying to impress purchasers with expensive displays or packaging but was so enthusiastic about his product. He was giving away free samples and not just tiny bits but whole chocolate tarts made with his product. We bought quite a bit from him. He is located near the supermarket and below street level. He was happy to discuss the process and even show us his workshop.
We visited as many churches and buildings that our legs would accommodate. As you know Modica is all uphill. The steps to the Duomo reminded me first of the stairs at Fontainebleau followed by the Spanish Steps in Rome. Up and up we went. The Cathedral is beautiful and we were glad we made the effort to climb the stairs. This is also the first time we came across people begging - in this case it was for you to hold the budgerigar on your finger and then donate some money to the owner. I'd hate to have that budgie's life!
Finally it came time to climb back those staircases to our abode. Luckily by now there was some lighting both from windows of houses and some lovely lamps (that we previously thought were no longer connected). Lots of rest stops along the way, listening to family chatter through the windows and children called home for their dinner. Our self catered dinner and wine was enjoyed with our million dollar view! We were far above the noise and hassle of main street. Watching the lights come on in Modica and neighbouring towns in the surrounding hills - no restaurant in town could have afforded us this wonderful experience.
Dayle, perhaps if we had a map pointing out where things were rather than having to waste our time wandering in what was not a visitor oriented town, then we might have liked Sicili. The Boroque centre is very small. No where was there a sign to the costume museum.
The harpsichord and flute performance was a serendipity for you. Not something that anyone else would come across.
We had a similar experience in Lucca, where we were able to listen to some classical music being practiced in a decommissioned church, for an official paid performance later that day. Chance is but chance. We would not however base our view of Lucca on just that one chance experience.
Modica:
We parked near the cemetery and called our B & B who came right away and we followed him to the accommodation. Thank goodness too, we were only five minutes away from where we had stopped but we would never have found the street which was uphill from the main road and unmarked!
A school or office building was opposite and had been closed. Some of the windows had been left open and so the building was now home to the pigeons. Oh what a view they had!
Modica was hidden from our sight when we parked the car at the front door and we were shown our room - furniture very Franco Cozzo (only Melbournians will understand that statement). Then he threw open the French doors to the balcony - and wow - there was Modica in panorama. A million euro view no matter what time of the day. The balcony was the perfect place to enjoy antipasta and wine and watch the city. And even without the antipasta and wine it was a wonderous view.
There was no bus as we had been told, down to Modica or else it ran at some odd hours - we never did find out. We hiked down the steps he showed us - I stopped counting at 600. We realised that we would have climb back again!! It was interesting watching how the people live in the untourist streets. We even found old stone washing stations when the locals would have had to pump water (we found one of those too) and then wash their laundry in the communal stone wash basins. The lanes were narrow and twisting and we did wonder whether we would get lost in the dark when we returned. We had forgotten to take our torch with us.
Soon enough we found ourselves in the main street of Modica. Chocolate and marzipan heaven.
The TO was the best and most helpful we had come across to date and they were at great pains to point out the highlights of their city and make sure that the things we were interested in were covered.
If you are driving into Modica, do be careful where you park and for how long. They have very strict rules. The smartly dressed parking attendants are on the prowl and will have no hesitation fining you. They will however, go out of their way to help a tourist who tries to speak Italian (but not to avoid a fine).
Modica traffic is busy. Park near the bus station and leg it in.
The main street is full of elegant palazzo and lots of trinket and chocolate tasting shops. There are so many choices that even a chocoholic would reach surfeit in no time.
Past the round about there is a supermarket if you want to self cater.
We decided not to venture into one of the obviously touristy chocolate shops and chose a small baker/chocolatier who was not trying to impress purchasers with expensive displays or packaging but was so enthusiastic about his product. He was giving away free samples and not just tiny bits but whole chocolate tarts made with his product. We bought quite a bit from him. He is located near the supermarket and below street level. He was happy to discuss the process and even show us his workshop.
We visited as many churches and buildings that our legs would accommodate. As you know Modica is all uphill. The steps to the Duomo reminded me first of the stairs at Fontainebleau followed by the Spanish Steps in Rome. Up and up we went. The Cathedral is beautiful and we were glad we made the effort to climb the stairs. This is also the first time we came across people begging - in this case it was for you to hold the budgerigar on your finger and then donate some money to the owner. I'd hate to have that budgie's life!
Finally it came time to climb back those staircases to our abode. Luckily by now there was some lighting both from windows of houses and some lovely lamps (that we previously thought were no longer connected). Lots of rest stops along the way, listening to family chatter through the windows and children called home for their dinner. Our self catered dinner and wine was enjoyed with our million dollar view! We were far above the noise and hassle of main street. Watching the lights come on in Modica and neighbouring towns in the surrounding hills - no restaurant in town could have afforded us this wonderful experience.
Apr 26th, 2016, 01:48 PM
#87
Glad to read that your experience in Modica has been wonderful - your self-catered dinner at your B&b sounds hesvenly! And the discovery of the chocolate shop....perfect!
Those stairs are the reason that I decided not to stay in Modica (health reasons). 600 steps! Wow! I hope we have a chance to visit -- we will see what time allows.
Those stairs are the reason that I decided not to stay in Modica (health reasons). 600 steps! Wow! I hope we have a chance to visit -- we will see what time allows.
Apr 26th, 2016, 02:10 PM
#89
Nice to read that you enjoyed Modica. 600 steps -- geez, not sure I'd want to go up and down them every day.
I want to second your comment on parking. Be very careful to park legally. We didn't realize we were parking illegally and got a ticket. Back at our BnB, several other people had also gotten tickets in various towns. Fortunately the owner of the BnB took all the tickets to the post office and took care of paying them. (We all gave her money.) It saved us from dealing with payment. Also it was good to know where you could pay one as we had been on a wild goose chase trying to pay it in Noto. We kept being told different places to go.
I want to second your comment on parking. Be very careful to park legally. We didn't realize we were parking illegally and got a ticket. Back at our BnB, several other people had also gotten tickets in various towns. Fortunately the owner of the BnB took all the tickets to the post office and took care of paying them. (We all gave her money.) It saved us from dealing with payment. Also it was good to know where you could pay one as we had been on a wild goose chase trying to pay it in Noto. We kept being told different places to go.
Apr 26th, 2016, 06:46 PM
#92
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Yestravel, I also read about someone getting a ticket for parking and not knowing where to pay it. Going around in circles before they realised that it could be paid at the post office. Finding one of those open too at the time you want it is just as much fun.
Our balcony was just as wonderful to watch Modica coming alive in the morning. The church step lights remain on all night and look like a double row of candles on a birthday cake.
We met an older couple going out just as we were leaving. More about them later.
The drive to Modica to Sicili was the usual. I have already said that I would have avoided Sicili had I known that it was such a poor representation. It is mostly a modern (post war) and poor town. Am happy to send you pdf copies of the two maps we got and you can decide for yourselves.
We parked in the market area and walked into the town just one street away. The market was a fruit and veg market only with stall holders obviously doing the rounds of local towns as they did in Trapani.
We wanted to avoid driving back into Modica to go on to Noto but there was no one in Sicili who could point out the road to us. As it was we went back in the Modica direction but were able to avoid the town and skirted it to get on to the autostrada.
Again we opted to stay out of the centre and although the B & B was opposite a dump of a building site on a 'modern" high rise it was a great place to stay. The owner Salvo and his daughter Amba, for whom the B & B is named, were welcoming and very helpful. Amba insisted that we relax in the dining room with a welcoming orange drink from their own orchard. They have orchards of oranges, lemons, almonds and that coco stuff (cant remember the name). Salvo gave us one of the large brown bean like things to chew on - an acquired taste and hard on the teeth! There are baskets of almonds and nut crackers all around the premises for guests to eat as they please.
There is safe car parking (locked) in the back yard. Amba offered us a room on the ground floor which looked into the back yard but then offered another room on the 2nd floor (the family live on the first floor). I had been happy with the ground floor room but Peter said that we would like to see the room with a view and so up we went. When I saw it, I decided that this was the one for us and Peter suddenly realised that he would have to carry our heavy bags (now laden with books he had bought along the way) up several flights of stairs. Too late.
The room was small but had a small balcony overlooking the front garden and the building site and access to a patio with chairs and tables (again great for watching the city go to sleep or wake up) with plenty of almonds to chew on.
Amba advised that her parents had relatives in Melbourne and that she had not seen her cousins who lived there.
This is something that we frequently come across - Sicilians who have relatives in Australia. As soon as they know that we are not American or English, their whole attitude changes - for the better. More on that later.
We followed her directions and walked down into the town. Noto's attractions are fortunately along one long and level street except for the steps up to the Cathedral. We decided to take up the offer of the three for one, the museum, the theatre and the mirror room in the municipio. Well worth the money.
We started with the mirror room. What a little gem. paintings, mirrors and just beautiful. What a thrill is must be to be invited to hear music ensembles here.
This where the beggers begin. These still have the birds on the cart or cages that will sit on your finger for a fee. We saw more of this as we went further east.
On to the museum and while the ground floor was dedicated to ancient history - the usual bits of broken pottery the upper floor was filled with wonderful bronzes and coins. We were certainly glad that we walked upstairs - there is also a toilet with a view (no toilet paper).
Along the way we visited the gardens at the end of the street (unfortunately work going on and so could not enjoy the whole gardens) the usual kitch stalls and this is also one of the public car parks.
We also decided to visit the only palazzo that is open to the public. We were supposed to be given a guided tour, but they were short of staff and we were presented with a brochure and told to get on with it. Interesting, but a guided tour would have really made the difference. They have tried to reproduce all the furnishings, especially the silk wall coverings and the ceiling paintings and have done so successfully. The last owner was unmarried and did not have any children so he gave the palazzo over the municipio. There is a painting of the last Contessa in full high wig and pannier dress, and the owner's study with a photograph is kept as he had used it. The fake marble pillars and walls are peeling because they are in fact plaster made to look like marble and so well done.
We had to cut our visit a bit shorter than we would have liked as we wanted to visit the theatre as well.
The theatre looked closed with its high metal gates, but was infact open. It is tiny and dedicated to the actress Tina Leonardo (a lovely bronze of her is in the museum). There is also a marble plaque dedication to her in the foyer and a giant painting of her in one of her costumes. We were lucky enough to be able to sit in on a dress rehearsal of a new performance by local students and it was fun watching the director trying to get them to perform the final curtain call! It was obviously a very modern play and we hope that it went well for them. The theatre is all red and gold with a wonderful ceiling and chandeliers. The tiny boxes had even tinier chairs - would get uncomfortable sitting on them for too long!
Our balcony was just as wonderful to watch Modica coming alive in the morning. The church step lights remain on all night and look like a double row of candles on a birthday cake.
We met an older couple going out just as we were leaving. More about them later.
The drive to Modica to Sicili was the usual. I have already said that I would have avoided Sicili had I known that it was such a poor representation. It is mostly a modern (post war) and poor town. Am happy to send you pdf copies of the two maps we got and you can decide for yourselves.
We parked in the market area and walked into the town just one street away. The market was a fruit and veg market only with stall holders obviously doing the rounds of local towns as they did in Trapani.
We wanted to avoid driving back into Modica to go on to Noto but there was no one in Sicili who could point out the road to us. As it was we went back in the Modica direction but were able to avoid the town and skirted it to get on to the autostrada.
Again we opted to stay out of the centre and although the B & B was opposite a dump of a building site on a 'modern" high rise it was a great place to stay. The owner Salvo and his daughter Amba, for whom the B & B is named, were welcoming and very helpful. Amba insisted that we relax in the dining room with a welcoming orange drink from their own orchard. They have orchards of oranges, lemons, almonds and that coco stuff (cant remember the name). Salvo gave us one of the large brown bean like things to chew on - an acquired taste and hard on the teeth! There are baskets of almonds and nut crackers all around the premises for guests to eat as they please.
There is safe car parking (locked) in the back yard. Amba offered us a room on the ground floor which looked into the back yard but then offered another room on the 2nd floor (the family live on the first floor). I had been happy with the ground floor room but Peter said that we would like to see the room with a view and so up we went. When I saw it, I decided that this was the one for us and Peter suddenly realised that he would have to carry our heavy bags (now laden with books he had bought along the way) up several flights of stairs. Too late.
The room was small but had a small balcony overlooking the front garden and the building site and access to a patio with chairs and tables (again great for watching the city go to sleep or wake up) with plenty of almonds to chew on.
Amba advised that her parents had relatives in Melbourne and that she had not seen her cousins who lived there.
This is something that we frequently come across - Sicilians who have relatives in Australia. As soon as they know that we are not American or English, their whole attitude changes - for the better. More on that later.
We followed her directions and walked down into the town. Noto's attractions are fortunately along one long and level street except for the steps up to the Cathedral. We decided to take up the offer of the three for one, the museum, the theatre and the mirror room in the municipio. Well worth the money.
We started with the mirror room. What a little gem. paintings, mirrors and just beautiful. What a thrill is must be to be invited to hear music ensembles here.
This where the beggers begin. These still have the birds on the cart or cages that will sit on your finger for a fee. We saw more of this as we went further east.
On to the museum and while the ground floor was dedicated to ancient history - the usual bits of broken pottery the upper floor was filled with wonderful bronzes and coins. We were certainly glad that we walked upstairs - there is also a toilet with a view (no toilet paper).
Along the way we visited the gardens at the end of the street (unfortunately work going on and so could not enjoy the whole gardens) the usual kitch stalls and this is also one of the public car parks.
We also decided to visit the only palazzo that is open to the public. We were supposed to be given a guided tour, but they were short of staff and we were presented with a brochure and told to get on with it. Interesting, but a guided tour would have really made the difference. They have tried to reproduce all the furnishings, especially the silk wall coverings and the ceiling paintings and have done so successfully. The last owner was unmarried and did not have any children so he gave the palazzo over the municipio. There is a painting of the last Contessa in full high wig and pannier dress, and the owner's study with a photograph is kept as he had used it. The fake marble pillars and walls are peeling because they are in fact plaster made to look like marble and so well done.
We had to cut our visit a bit shorter than we would have liked as we wanted to visit the theatre as well.
The theatre looked closed with its high metal gates, but was infact open. It is tiny and dedicated to the actress Tina Leonardo (a lovely bronze of her is in the museum). There is also a marble plaque dedication to her in the foyer and a giant painting of her in one of her costumes. We were lucky enough to be able to sit in on a dress rehearsal of a new performance by local students and it was fun watching the director trying to get them to perform the final curtain call! It was obviously a very modern play and we hope that it went well for them. The theatre is all red and gold with a wonderful ceiling and chandeliers. The tiny boxes had even tinier chairs - would get uncomfortable sitting on them for too long!
Apr 29th, 2016, 06:07 AM
#93
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A light dinner at Piero's of melanzane and arancine and then a walk back to our B & B to be met by Salve who insisted in getting us coffee and told us all about his orchards in the countryside and his cats.
The workers on the building site opposite were still going and we thought they might be working through the night, but luckily they did stop. We had a bottle of wine on the terrace and enjoyed watching the city of Noto turn on its lights.
Unfortunately breakfast appears to have changed from small banquets of variety to just a claggy croissant filled with chocolate or crema, commercial toast and some pastries. Not a good diet. Luckily the orange juice here was freshly squeezed so I was lucky to be offered another tiny glass.
From Noto we decided to visit Tellaro - another adventure in sign following. Thank goodness for roundabouts. You can keep going around until you see the sign you want. Tellaro is off the beaten path so you will go a long way before you see signs and you really have to be on the look out for them - they are now old and peeling and you may think that is just an old sign and go looking for a legible one. No that is the sign. In fact we drove right past the last one. I made Peter turn back on a country lane to what I had seen as a banner for parking. Sure enough above it hidden in the branches of trees was the old and faded sign to Tellaro.
As they have not excavated a lot of Tellaro a visit to the site is currently free. You wander at will through the few mosaic floors and buildings. They are under cover but only Perspex which causes an awful amount of glare. The mosaics are different to Roman Casale in PA in that the tiles are much smaller and the designs and colours were done by African artisans so are quite different. Good to see and make a comparison if you are interested in that sort of thing. Also know that Tellaro is not on the way to Syracusa. It is south of Noto and you have to come back almost to Noto to get the autostrada to Syracuse.
Another thing I would mention is that there is not a lot of information available overseas or on line, on things to see out of Noto. Noto could be your base for a number of things eg Tellaro and the Nature Reserve. There are also a few other sites that the Information office could tell you about. So think about making Noto your base for a few days and explore.
The autostrada is an easy drive and you will see the church of Santa Maria di Lacrima in the distance. Easy driving into town and then the usual fun starts. Again we decided to stay a bit out of Ortygia in Syracusa. It is a residential area along the harbour. It suited us as we could walk into Ortygia as well as to the Ruins and were close to an excellent gelataria and supermarket.
We managed to return the car to Avis and you already have the story on that.
The area the B & B was in looked a little seedy with seemingly abandoned apartments with crumbling balconies - but it was really a thriving area with people coming to the parks and small markets that set up in the evening for street food.
The apartment was in a post war building that had seen better days but the apartment itself was large and clean and Rosanna was an excellent ambassador for her city and gave us all the information we could want. The windows had double glazing so that kept the noise from the road out.
Breakfast was overseen by Rosanna's mother who made the cakes and pastries but they also provided various meats and cheeses and Rosanna made cannoli for Peter when she found out that he liked them. Rosanna's father worked the night reception at one of the local hotels but was there at Rosanna's B & B to help out during the day.
At breakfast the next day two more guests (who sort of looked familiar) turned up in the dining area. They were the Milanese couple who had been at our B & B in Modica. We had quite a chat about driving and they too said that driving in Sicily was not like driving in other parts of Italy. The young Lithuanian couple also agreed with this.
The workers on the building site opposite were still going and we thought they might be working through the night, but luckily they did stop. We had a bottle of wine on the terrace and enjoyed watching the city of Noto turn on its lights.
Unfortunately breakfast appears to have changed from small banquets of variety to just a claggy croissant filled with chocolate or crema, commercial toast and some pastries. Not a good diet. Luckily the orange juice here was freshly squeezed so I was lucky to be offered another tiny glass.
From Noto we decided to visit Tellaro - another adventure in sign following. Thank goodness for roundabouts. You can keep going around until you see the sign you want. Tellaro is off the beaten path so you will go a long way before you see signs and you really have to be on the look out for them - they are now old and peeling and you may think that is just an old sign and go looking for a legible one. No that is the sign. In fact we drove right past the last one. I made Peter turn back on a country lane to what I had seen as a banner for parking. Sure enough above it hidden in the branches of trees was the old and faded sign to Tellaro.
As they have not excavated a lot of Tellaro a visit to the site is currently free. You wander at will through the few mosaic floors and buildings. They are under cover but only Perspex which causes an awful amount of glare. The mosaics are different to Roman Casale in PA in that the tiles are much smaller and the designs and colours were done by African artisans so are quite different. Good to see and make a comparison if you are interested in that sort of thing. Also know that Tellaro is not on the way to Syracusa. It is south of Noto and you have to come back almost to Noto to get the autostrada to Syracuse.
Another thing I would mention is that there is not a lot of information available overseas or on line, on things to see out of Noto. Noto could be your base for a number of things eg Tellaro and the Nature Reserve. There are also a few other sites that the Information office could tell you about. So think about making Noto your base for a few days and explore.
The autostrada is an easy drive and you will see the church of Santa Maria di Lacrima in the distance. Easy driving into town and then the usual fun starts. Again we decided to stay a bit out of Ortygia in Syracusa. It is a residential area along the harbour. It suited us as we could walk into Ortygia as well as to the Ruins and were close to an excellent gelataria and supermarket.
We managed to return the car to Avis and you already have the story on that.
The area the B & B was in looked a little seedy with seemingly abandoned apartments with crumbling balconies - but it was really a thriving area with people coming to the parks and small markets that set up in the evening for street food.
The apartment was in a post war building that had seen better days but the apartment itself was large and clean and Rosanna was an excellent ambassador for her city and gave us all the information we could want. The windows had double glazing so that kept the noise from the road out.
Breakfast was overseen by Rosanna's mother who made the cakes and pastries but they also provided various meats and cheeses and Rosanna made cannoli for Peter when she found out that he liked them. Rosanna's father worked the night reception at one of the local hotels but was there at Rosanna's B & B to help out during the day.
At breakfast the next day two more guests (who sort of looked familiar) turned up in the dining area. They were the Milanese couple who had been at our B & B in Modica. We had quite a chat about driving and they too said that driving in Sicily was not like driving in other parts of Italy. The young Lithuanian couple also agreed with this.
Apr 30th, 2016, 06:59 AM
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Can't wait to read the remainder of your post. Leaving in 6 days, on a last minute trip. Retired 1st of year, and using my air mile points. I have had my Sicily travel books for years, and I thought it's now or never, I'll be 74 in August. Thanks for posting, will start reading again tonight.
Apr 30th, 2016, 11:18 PM
#95
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Forgot to mention that in our drive into Syracusa we stopped to ask an older man the way to our street and he asked if Peter was Australian and when he said yes, he smiled and shook his hand and said that he had lived in Sydney for 40+ years and was just returning to Syracuse for a holiday. He directed us to our street in words we could understand!
Extricating ourselves from Avis, we walked around Ortygia. There is a wonderful red Venetian looking house just near the bridge. At the end of the same street is the Grand Hotel. A friend of Peter's and friend are travelling around Sicily, the mainland and France for three months. However, their budget is immense in comparison and they stayed at the Grand Hotel for several days. We just slummed by!
A walk along the lungomare (a site for the passegiata later in the day) and an expensive, one flavour only, dark chocolate gelato from one of the glam restaurants along there.
The lungomare is a wonderful place to walk or rest at any time of the day. Look out for monuments to the King of Savoy and the tiny beach near the aquarium. Up the ramp to view the rather overgrown and dirty Pond of Athena. Even the ducks know better than to swim in that mess.
The path is lined with Bangladeshi salesmen selling selfisticks, mobile phone covers, plastic belts and sunglasses. When it rains out come the umbrellas for sale.
You can continue from here to the end of the island or return to the centre and the Roman ruins.
Extricating ourselves from Avis, we walked around Ortygia. There is a wonderful red Venetian looking house just near the bridge. At the end of the same street is the Grand Hotel. A friend of Peter's and friend are travelling around Sicily, the mainland and France for three months. However, their budget is immense in comparison and they stayed at the Grand Hotel for several days. We just slummed by!
A walk along the lungomare (a site for the passegiata later in the day) and an expensive, one flavour only, dark chocolate gelato from one of the glam restaurants along there.
The lungomare is a wonderful place to walk or rest at any time of the day. Look out for monuments to the King of Savoy and the tiny beach near the aquarium. Up the ramp to view the rather overgrown and dirty Pond of Athena. Even the ducks know better than to swim in that mess.
The path is lined with Bangladeshi salesmen selling selfisticks, mobile phone covers, plastic belts and sunglasses. When it rains out come the umbrellas for sale.
You can continue from here to the end of the island or return to the centre and the Roman ruins.
May 1st, 2016, 05:04 AM
#96
Sorry to hear about the overgrown pond and the salesmen! No salesmen in evidence when I was there, and the pond was home to papyrus, which I was interested to see. Anxious to hear how the rest of the island is doing.
May 1st, 2016, 11:35 AM
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The Papyrus is still there, but the water is scummy and has lots of rubbish thrown in. A couple of other posters on TA have also indicated the same late last year. I thought that it would have been cleaned up, but no. There are some very dark fish as well as some bloated gold fish. They seem lobsided as if one pushed them - over they'd go!
There are some nice restaurants along the lungomare at this point where you can sit and watch the sunset - for a price.
We enjoyed following alleys as we knew that sooner or later we would come out on one side of Ortygia or the other. Some really decrepit places and then suddenly a new place. These also differed during the day to during the late evening. They'd come alive with little cafes and restaurants that you would never have known were there during the day.
If you are interested there is a café/bar behind the cathedral that has an interesting side line in old curiosities - bottles, keys, and other paraphernalia. You never know what small treasure you could find.
Having expended our energy around Ortygia, we went back to our B & B to find our room ready and we just collapsed for a while. Found the Supermarket and had a wonderful gelati from the Gelateria. This suburban one is well patronised by locals (in fact we were the only foreigners) and has a variety of gelati, ice cakes and desserts and pastries. Families come there and sit in the canopied garden area or on the benches outside to enjoy their gelati.
We also found that the Supermarket sold Modica chocolate as good as any we had in Modica for under the E3 it sold in Modica. The supermarket deli (as in Marsala) made up rolls with whatever fillings you wanted, so we often got one of these on the way back from wherever we had been for the morning, for lunch.
Will report on our walk to the ruins tomorrow.
There are some nice restaurants along the lungomare at this point where you can sit and watch the sunset - for a price.
We enjoyed following alleys as we knew that sooner or later we would come out on one side of Ortygia or the other. Some really decrepit places and then suddenly a new place. These also differed during the day to during the late evening. They'd come alive with little cafes and restaurants that you would never have known were there during the day.
If you are interested there is a café/bar behind the cathedral that has an interesting side line in old curiosities - bottles, keys, and other paraphernalia. You never know what small treasure you could find.
Having expended our energy around Ortygia, we went back to our B & B to find our room ready and we just collapsed for a while. Found the Supermarket and had a wonderful gelati from the Gelateria. This suburban one is well patronised by locals (in fact we were the only foreigners) and has a variety of gelati, ice cakes and desserts and pastries. Families come there and sit in the canopied garden area or on the benches outside to enjoy their gelati.
We also found that the Supermarket sold Modica chocolate as good as any we had in Modica for under the E3 it sold in Modica. The supermarket deli (as in Marsala) made up rolls with whatever fillings you wanted, so we often got one of these on the way back from wherever we had been for the morning, for lunch.
Will report on our walk to the ruins tomorrow.
May 1st, 2016, 12:37 PM
#99
We also found that the Supermarket sold Modica chocolate as good as any we had in Modica for under the E3 it sold in Modica>>
sorry, Rasputin, I may not have been following - is there just the one supermarket in Ortygia? Modica chocolate AND rolls from the deli sound like a pretty good deal.
sorry, Rasputin, I may not have been following - is there just the one supermarket in Ortygia? Modica chocolate AND rolls from the deli sound like a pretty good deal.
May 2nd, 2016, 04:23 AM
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Thursday, I have miniature papyrus growing in my backyard - do you want some? 
annhig - there are several small Crai supermarkets in Ortygia. I would have to check my map to see if I can remember where I saw one. It was down an alley in front of an old abandoned church. I took a photograph (of the church) so may be able to identify the area. The supermarket we used was a Syracusa residents supermarket, small compared to some others in towns, but had what we wanted - water, chocolate, small deli section with olives, sundried tomatoes, salami, ham, speck, mortadella, and cheeses including those we liked ie Gran Padana, Pecorino and Parmesan and wine. It was on the way between Ortygia and our accommodation and the Gelateria followed (I have reviewed on TA) so that was taken care of easily.
We were walking distance to the Lacrama church and also the bus stop to take us to the ruins. However, when we got to the stop, there was no sign of the bus so we decided to start walking. We were already at the ruins when a bus came past.
If you are driving and need to park your car, you will need to deal with the man and woman who have set themselves as unofficial car directors and money collectors. If you drive past them to go elsewhere they will abuse you (not that you can hear).
You will need to park where they tell you and give them a couple of euro to ensure that your car is still there when you return and unmarked.
Go into the gate on the left handside and walk past all the trinket shops selling the same kitsch. You will come to the guide booth where you can decide whether you want a guide or not and then to the ticket office where you purchase your ticket, either a single one for the ruins or a combination with the museum.
Many people have rated the museum as a must see and if we were not as tired as we were, we probably would have taken the combination. We took the single entry ticket and then retraced our steps past the trinket shops to the well dressed traffic police who ensure that cars stop and that pedestrians can cross safely. Don't try to cross without permission or you will get a ticket.
Entry into the park - which way to turn? How to avoid the tour groups? First is the Roman amphitheatre - overgrown at this time of the year. Interesting to walk around to the other side = less people.
Toilets are here if you need them (Pink building). Bring your own toilet paper.
There is a semblance of a garden and plenty of cats hiding around. Not tame. I had brought dog treats after I think it was you Thursday who mentioned stray dogs, but found that I was equally feeding cats too.
BTW there are many stray dogs in Agrigento in the park. There is one glorious one as big as a small bear - I just wanted to cuddle him. Ofcourse I did not and that day I did not have the treats with me.
The altar of Heron is said to be wonderful - it is nothing more than a tiered platform of granite. I have plenty of blue stone in my other house that I could pile up and call it something or other it would look the same.
On to the Greek Amphitheatre which was being decked out for a performance and some of the seating had already been covered in planks. Great views of the Latomie from the path around the amphitheatre. There are some caves and a small waterfall in a pool that everyone wanted to sit near as it was the only place that was cool and in the shade Hats and plenty of water and wetones are essential here at any time of the year.
The amphitheatre is amazing and if it was not so hot it would be a wonderful place to sit and think about time and space and one's place in it.
There were steps down to Dionysis' Ear and the Latomie caves. Peter opted out of that and waited at the ticket shed where they check that you have your ticket (so don't lose on the way). Several cats came out and kept Peter company. When I returned I tried to feed them. Some ate the treats but other turned up their noses. The German tourists were amazed that I was feeding them.
On to the Ear. It is quite an amazing space. Not sure how it could have been used as a prison, but the acoustics are wonderful. Dark and stony so be sure that you are sure footed. If possible bring a torch as it gets darker as you get into the cave. Your eyes will adjust to some extent but it is difficult to keep looking up as you will, into the amazing space and keep your footing on the large and rocky floor.
The path to the Ear, once you have cleared the steps, is around and through a garden of orange trees. They were in flower while we were there and the perfume was lovely. There are citrus and olive trees throughout the park and no one appears to collect the fruit they just fall and rot.
The Ear and Latomie area is lovely because it is so much cooler and greener than up above.
Some of the Latomie are closed but walk around what you can and you will come to a lovely greenery covered arcade - so welcome after the heat. There are also some benches under the orange grove area, so if you have your picnic lunch with you, you can sit here and enjoy it while the others push and shove to get around.
We chose not to go to the Archimedes area and walked back via the Lacrama church. More about that.
At the gate there was an enterprising accordion player - lots of fun music so he deserved a few euro. Behind are some Roman houses (you can make out the rooms here).
annhig - there are several small Crai supermarkets in Ortygia. I would have to check my map to see if I can remember where I saw one. It was down an alley in front of an old abandoned church. I took a photograph (of the church) so may be able to identify the area. The supermarket we used was a Syracusa residents supermarket, small compared to some others in towns, but had what we wanted - water, chocolate, small deli section with olives, sundried tomatoes, salami, ham, speck, mortadella, and cheeses including those we liked ie Gran Padana, Pecorino and Parmesan and wine. It was on the way between Ortygia and our accommodation and the Gelateria followed (I have reviewed on TA) so that was taken care of easily.
We were walking distance to the Lacrama church and also the bus stop to take us to the ruins. However, when we got to the stop, there was no sign of the bus so we decided to start walking. We were already at the ruins when a bus came past.
If you are driving and need to park your car, you will need to deal with the man and woman who have set themselves as unofficial car directors and money collectors. If you drive past them to go elsewhere they will abuse you (not that you can hear).
You will need to park where they tell you and give them a couple of euro to ensure that your car is still there when you return and unmarked.
Go into the gate on the left handside and walk past all the trinket shops selling the same kitsch. You will come to the guide booth where you can decide whether you want a guide or not and then to the ticket office where you purchase your ticket, either a single one for the ruins or a combination with the museum.
Many people have rated the museum as a must see and if we were not as tired as we were, we probably would have taken the combination. We took the single entry ticket and then retraced our steps past the trinket shops to the well dressed traffic police who ensure that cars stop and that pedestrians can cross safely. Don't try to cross without permission or you will get a ticket.
Entry into the park - which way to turn? How to avoid the tour groups? First is the Roman amphitheatre - overgrown at this time of the year. Interesting to walk around to the other side = less people.
Toilets are here if you need them (Pink building). Bring your own toilet paper.
There is a semblance of a garden and plenty of cats hiding around. Not tame. I had brought dog treats after I think it was you Thursday who mentioned stray dogs, but found that I was equally feeding cats too.
BTW there are many stray dogs in Agrigento in the park. There is one glorious one as big as a small bear - I just wanted to cuddle him. Ofcourse I did not and that day I did not have the treats with me.
The altar of Heron is said to be wonderful - it is nothing more than a tiered platform of granite. I have plenty of blue stone in my other house that I could pile up and call it something or other it would look the same.
On to the Greek Amphitheatre which was being decked out for a performance and some of the seating had already been covered in planks. Great views of the Latomie from the path around the amphitheatre. There are some caves and a small waterfall in a pool that everyone wanted to sit near as it was the only place that was cool and in the shade Hats and plenty of water and wetones are essential here at any time of the year.
The amphitheatre is amazing and if it was not so hot it would be a wonderful place to sit and think about time and space and one's place in it.
There were steps down to Dionysis' Ear and the Latomie caves. Peter opted out of that and waited at the ticket shed where they check that you have your ticket (so don't lose on the way). Several cats came out and kept Peter company. When I returned I tried to feed them. Some ate the treats but other turned up their noses. The German tourists were amazed that I was feeding them.
On to the Ear. It is quite an amazing space. Not sure how it could have been used as a prison, but the acoustics are wonderful. Dark and stony so be sure that you are sure footed. If possible bring a torch as it gets darker as you get into the cave. Your eyes will adjust to some extent but it is difficult to keep looking up as you will, into the amazing space and keep your footing on the large and rocky floor.
The path to the Ear, once you have cleared the steps, is around and through a garden of orange trees. They were in flower while we were there and the perfume was lovely. There are citrus and olive trees throughout the park and no one appears to collect the fruit they just fall and rot.
The Ear and Latomie area is lovely because it is so much cooler and greener than up above.
Some of the Latomie are closed but walk around what you can and you will come to a lovely greenery covered arcade - so welcome after the heat. There are also some benches under the orange grove area, so if you have your picnic lunch with you, you can sit here and enjoy it while the others push and shove to get around.
We chose not to go to the Archimedes area and walked back via the Lacrama church. More about that.
At the gate there was an enterprising accordion player - lots of fun music so he deserved a few euro. Behind are some Roman houses (you can make out the rooms here).
