Driving wasn't bad at all. A bit nervous not being able to read approaching signs on the autostrada. But the tolls took the credit cards without any problems. The winding roads going to Menaggio were no problem for my husband, (who hasn't driven a manual in 20 years). However, I found myself clutching my seat at a few turns. I am also afraid of heights! Europcar was great. Got the upgrade and the return was so easy. Loved Menaggio and the Grand Hotel Victoria. We had a magnificent view from our room, with balcony, and the grounds, staff, breakfast were wonderful. A short walk to the ferry. The Hotel Menaggio was also lovely with the pool right on the lake. I think that you can't go wrong wherever you stay. To those who say Bellagio is the only place, I think that is because where you stay becomes your home. Menaggio always had entertainment in the Piazza at night for the locals and tourists. Also, the ferry's offer a quick ride to Bellagio, where the shopping is the best in the area. Also visited Varenna, Villa Carlotta, and had the most memorable meal at the Locanda Isola Comancina. Absolutely one of our highlights and well worth the $52.00 Euro for 4 hours of non stop eating and drinking. Visited Lugano. A larger city than I imagined and quite wealthly. Pretty and a nice half day trip (about .30 min away).<BR>Lake Orta is like Bob the Navigator says "magical". A quaint, picuresque town with frescos on buildings, narrow winding streets, stone roofs..just perfect. Stayed at the Hotel Orta and Signora Oglina really knows how the run the show. Perfect location. We had a wonderful large room, high ceilings, with a balcony and large modern bathroom. Took the halfboard plan of $75.00pp per night. Above average food and some of the best desserts I ever had. The view from their dining room gave the impression you were floating on water. Visit Sacro Monte (chapels with life sized terracota statues dating from the 17th C). Can't say enough about Orta San Guilio. Also took the road over the mountains to Stressa for the day (about 40 min). More shopping than any of the other lakes but a more touristy feel. Hotel after hotel. Not quiet like Lake Como with that feeling of being enclosed by the surrounding mountains. Enjoyed the day there, but did not like Isola Bella. We felt the souvenir shops strewn every 2 feet took away any charm of the island. Loved Isola Pescatori and did eat the the Hotel Verbena. Excellent fish meal. <BR>My husband has this fascination with visiting the local supermarkets to see all local fresh food. We brought home fresh gnocchi for our son (his only request). Got lost going to Malpensa and ended up taking some small locals roads. Despite the tension, we made it in time. The only thing bad is wishing we were back there again.. and tonight I will have to cook! But I do have the gnocchi to look forward too.<BR>Thanks to all,<BR>Denise

I am delighted you enjoyed Orta. My son and family will be going there soon--after Luzern, Grindelwald, Mennagio.<BR>I agree about the half-board at the hotel. We seldom do that, but it seems natural in that setting. Grazie for the feedback !

Forgot to add that in Menaggio my husband found this great family owned restaurant specializing in thin crusted, charred perfectly, pizza. The name is Pizzaria Lugano and the owners couldn't be more flattered that we appreciated their cooking. It's up the hill a bit, above the main square on the road that you take to Lugano ( a five min. walk). Two large pizza's (quattro formagio and pizza with rucola-recommended) with half litre of wine under $15.00. <BR><BR>Also- no airconditioning in Hotel Orta and we couldn't decide to leave the windows open, close the shutters, or what. So thanks to Julie, I did bring bug spray and that helped us so much. The Lakes get many mosquitos at night.<BR><BR>Denise

Bob,<BR><BR>Signora Oglina send her regards to you.<BR>Did you ever eat their chocolate panna cotta or their chocolate torte? Tell your son not to miss that if offered. Absolutely fabulous. I think my stomach is still on the Italian plan- it's growling!<BR><BR>Denise

Denise...Thanks for the tips (yes, I'm Bob the Nav's son). Can't tell you how much we're looking forward to our trip to the Italian Lakes and Switzerland. 14 days till take-off, and counting.<BR><BR>For those interested or curious, our trip looks like this:<BR>Day 1 - Arrive at Zurich/Kloten, pick up rental car, drive to Schaffhausen & Stein am Rein, then down to Luzern. Check in at Hotel des Alpes.<BR><BR>Day 2 - Explore Luzern and go to top of Pilatus.<BR><BR>Day 3 - Explore the Vierwaldstattersee (sp?). Alt plan for rainy day: drive to Bern/Fribourg/Gruyere.<BR><BR>Day 4 - Go to Grindelwald, check in at Hotel Gletchergarten. Ride gondola to First, then walk to Bachalpsee. Time/weather permitting, go to oberglacier ice caves.<BR><BR>Day 5 - Schilthorn, Murren, walk to Grutschalp, funicular down to Lauterbrunnen.<BR><BR>Day 6 - Lift up to Mannlichen, hike to Wengen. Open afternoon.<BR><BR>Day 7 - Drive to Kandersteg, hike to Oechinensee, return via Thun. Boat trip on Lake Thun (Speiz, Oberhafen, etc.).<BR><BR>Day 8 - The long drive to Mennagio, via Domodosola and the Centovalli. Check in at Hotel Bella Vista.<BR><BR>Day 9 - Explore Mennagio, drive to Lugano, quick trip to Gandria, and spend evening in Bellagio.<BR><BR>Day 10 - Car ferry to Varenna, then drive up to Soglio and beyond.<BR><BR>Day 11 - Drive to Stresa, boat to Borromean islands, then drive to Orta S. Giulio, via Mottarone, check in at Hotel San Giulio.<BR><BR>Day 12 - Relax & unwind in Orta S.G. and walk up to Sacro Monte.<BR><BR>Day 13 - Malpensa, then home.

Dear Mr. Go,<BR><BR>Lucky you to have your father's experience to guide you. He was so helpful. The Hotel Bella Vista looked very nice. I remember remarking how nice it was. Their parking lot was a bit tight but they manage to get everyone in. Nice pool overlooking the water and they seemed to have a good dinner special. Try the Restaurant Lugano or Pizzaria Lugano(forgot exact name). It's just a short walk straight up the hill. Follow the road sign to Lugano or just ask someone. It was nice to eat in a local place and they took such good care and pride in their cooking. Great calzone's, pizza, and we also had a grilled vegetable platter. Nothing fancy, just good food. If you can, go to the Locanda Isola Comancina for dinner. Everything is included. But take their boat service. We arrived at 7:15 and got ripped off by a local fisherman who charged us $10.00 to go to the island. The restaurant, we soon realized, brings you to and from the island. The highlights of the meal were the owner (a real character aiming to please) the tomato with slice of lemon, onion cooked in skin till carmelized inside, the fish, veggies, dessert... A real feast and alot of fun. Are you staying at the Hotel Orta in Orta San Guilio? By the way the weather was great. About low 80's with cooler nights so bring a light sweater. No rain at all. Just bring bug spray.<BR>Driving to Malpensa be careful around Borgonomero. That's where we got lost and missed the autostrada. They had two signs for the Autostrada. One towards Milan and the other in the direction we didn't want. We followed the sign to Milan and admittedly panicked. A gentleman who spoke no English directed us to use the local road (S32) to get there. So look at those directions carefully. I don't know where we went wrong, but we made it in time. Malpensa, as everyone said, is easy. We also ate in Varenna at the hotel by the ferry (forgot the name). I wasn't that impressed, but I know others highly recommend it. I ordered ravioli and it was way undercooked and pasty tasting. I am sorry we missed eating at Vecchio Varenna.<BR>Have a wonderful time,<BR><BR>Denise

Wow--what a fabulous itinerary Mr.Go has put together. Genes must dictate.<BR>Mille grazie for the tips, Denise. You surely seem to have done it right. Yes, he did mean Hotel Orta. Signora Oglina will shower little Allie with kisses.

topping for Denise!

Denise, so glad you enjoyed your trip. I knew you would, who wouldn't, Lake Como is truly one of the most beautiful places anywhere. We had lunch at Isola Comacina but had parked our car in a prohibited place and were called to move it so we had to leave just before dessert and "the fire." Always wondered what came next. What did they serve for dessert and how long/interesting was "the fire" (supposedly some kind of history talk by the owner)? The part of the meal we did have was surely one of the best I've had in my life.

ttt

Julie,<BR><BR>I thought of you often during our trip. Your pamphlets of the hotels helped orient me better. At first I loved the Grand Hotel Menaggio and wished I would have opted for the extra expense to stay there. The pool overlooking the lake got me, along with the fresh flowers in the lobby!. But then, after settling in to the Hotel Victoria, I loved it also. The grounds were so quiet and lovely, with pine trees flanking both sides of the hotel. At night, the full moom glistened across the lake into our window. I remembered your story about the Locanda Comacina and how you missed the end of the meal. Well, he scoops out bowl of vanilla gelato and cuts fresh oranges around it with a orange type liquor poured gently over the creamy gelato. The flavors just mingled together and it was a refreshing end to a great meal. By the way, he offered people extra bottles of wine and dessert if they wished. It was really worth it, like you said. He lit a fire and turned off all the lights on the island and in Italian told the story of the curse. He later came to us and explained in English. While he was playing with the fire, he was making some type of liquor flavored coffee. I only took a few sips, but it was quite good. <BR><BR>Back to Venice for a second-the name of the little bar that serves great and different panini and other types of sandwiches was "Al Marca" at 212 Erberia Rialto. I asked people for directions and it ended up being off the Rialto Bridge. You walk straight ahead and come to the vegetable market. Well it's to the right in an unmarked Piazza with a white awning. My husband had sort of a wrap with fresh mushrooms inside and I had a panini with fresh ricotta and grilled eggplant on good crusty bread. It's a tiny place, visited by locals with a few tables out in this quiet square. The panini's were E1.50 each and he had cold glasses of white or red wine for E.50, and beer also. On a hot day, this hit the spot. <BR>In Dorsoduro, right by La Calcina was Nico's for very good gelato. One of the best gelato experiences I had was at Paolin- 2962/a San Marco in Campo Santo Stefano. I saw this woman eating this type of sundae creation and I had a chocolate craving. It was called Gianduia (hazlenut milk chocolate) and it was served in a frozen rectangle in a bowl with fresh whipped cream surrounding it. As it melted it tasted like the richest fudge sundae I ever had. The chocolate just blended with the cream (not sweet at all)<BR>In Dorsoduro(862) by the Guggenheim area, which I loved was an art studio called BAC ART. They had some really different lithographs of the canals , etc in Venice. Some of the prettiest I saw. A bit pricey for me, but nice to browse in that area. I bought a pack of note cards for $15.00 to remember his work by. <BR>Well to whoever located this post, thank you.<BR><BR>Any questions, just write me.<BR><BR>Denise

My only disagreement with Mr Go's itinerary is Menaggio. It may be cheaper than Bellagio or Varenna, but it is ordinary by comparison. Far better to pay the extra money and spend your days on Lake Como at either the Albergo Milano or Hotel du Lac in Varenna. Usually BTN's recommendations are spot on, but I would give the Hotel Bella Vista in Menaggio a miss. We stayed there recently and thought that it was urgently in need of refurbishment. The bedrooms and public areas are showing wear and tear and the food ran the full gamut from mediocre to ordinary. In its favour was a superb likeside setting and an unforgettable view from the room balcony. However, next time - its Varenna for us!