Trip Report: 15 days in Germany, Switzerland, and Italy
Aug 30th, 2005, 07:33 AM
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Trip Report: 15 days in Germany, Switzerland, and Italy
We (me, my wife, and our 15 and 12 year old daughters) are just back from our wonderful two-plus week trip to Frankfurt, Luzern, Grindelwald, and Lake Como. Thanks to all on this board who offered advice, especially Ms Go whose family took a similar trip a few years back. The trip had a little of everything, including a white knuckle drive out of Switzerland to beat the floods. I'll give a day by day summary of the high points. I am happy to give more detail to anyone who would like it.
Day 1--Frankfurt
We arrived in Frankfurt on a beautiful Saturday morning, where we were spending the weekend with my wife's cousin. Spent the afternoon at the Saturday flea market set up in booths along the River Main, and wandering around the city's small old town. Had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called Holstein's in the Frankfurt art museum.
Day 2--day trip to the Rhine river valley
Took a lovely drive up the river valley, periodically criss-crossing on ferries. Walked around the storybook village of Bachrach, where we had a traditional wurst lunch. Drove past the Loreley, and stopped at a couple of castles. A very nice day.
Day 3--Frankfurt to Luzern
Drove the 400 km from Frankfurt to Luzern in the pouring rain. The weather derailed our plans to stop in Heidelberg and Strasbourg. Had an excellent lunch in a Movenpick Hotel just past Basel, Switzerland. Still raining hard when we reached Luzern. We stayed at the Grand National Hotel in spacious rooms overlooking the lake. While we loved the accomodations, found the service to be under par for such a highly rated hotel. Had a very good dinner in the hotel's Italian restaurant, Padrino.
Day 4--Luzern
Day started out cool and drizzling, which ruled out many outdoor activities. Spent the morning at the Rosengart Collection, a fabulous small art museum. By early afternoon, the weather had cleared and we spent the balance of the day wandering around the old town, walking the lakeshore, sitting in a cafe, and buying loads of chocolate. Beautiful views to the mountains. Ate dinner at the Old Swiss House, which was a real treat for our girls. The food was excellent, and the staff could not have been nicer.
To be continued...
Day 1--Frankfurt
We arrived in Frankfurt on a beautiful Saturday morning, where we were spending the weekend with my wife's cousin. Spent the afternoon at the Saturday flea market set up in booths along the River Main, and wandering around the city's small old town. Had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called Holstein's in the Frankfurt art museum.
Day 2--day trip to the Rhine river valley
Took a lovely drive up the river valley, periodically criss-crossing on ferries. Walked around the storybook village of Bachrach, where we had a traditional wurst lunch. Drove past the Loreley, and stopped at a couple of castles. A very nice day.
Day 3--Frankfurt to Luzern
Drove the 400 km from Frankfurt to Luzern in the pouring rain. The weather derailed our plans to stop in Heidelberg and Strasbourg. Had an excellent lunch in a Movenpick Hotel just past Basel, Switzerland. Still raining hard when we reached Luzern. We stayed at the Grand National Hotel in spacious rooms overlooking the lake. While we loved the accomodations, found the service to be under par for such a highly rated hotel. Had a very good dinner in the hotel's Italian restaurant, Padrino.
Day 4--Luzern
Day started out cool and drizzling, which ruled out many outdoor activities. Spent the morning at the Rosengart Collection, a fabulous small art museum. By early afternoon, the weather had cleared and we spent the balance of the day wandering around the old town, walking the lakeshore, sitting in a cafe, and buying loads of chocolate. Beautiful views to the mountains. Ate dinner at the Old Swiss House, which was a real treat for our girls. The food was excellent, and the staff could not have been nicer.
To be continued...
Aug 30th, 2005, 08:14 AM
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Day 5--Luzern to Grindelwald
We awake to a dull, gray morning, which is disappointing since we are driving into the mountains. However, by the time we emerge from the series of tunnels leading out of Luzern, the weather has cleared and it is a postcard perfect day. We are all blown away by the beauty of Switzerland--the green hills and meadows, the mountains, the blue-green lakes. We have spent a lot of time in the Rockies, but this was much more beautiful. We stop several times along the way to admire the views. The drive from Interlaken to Grindelwald is stunning, with the Eiger and the Jungfrau in the distance. Spend the rest of the day wandering around Grindelwald and enjoying the views. Our hotel in Grindelwald is the Belvedere, which we really enjoyed. Fabulous views, and we cannot say enough about how great and friendly the staff is. We took half-board, and found the food to be quite good.
Day 6--First to Bachalspee
Another beautiful day. We took the First gondola to the top, and did the Bachalspee hike. Just gorgeous. Had a picnic lunch by the lake, surrounded by a herd of cows. On the trail back to the lift, we run into another family from our little town in NY. It is a small world.
Day 7--Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg
Our third straight nice day. We take the Mannlichen lift to the top and hike to Kleine Scheidegg. Some of the most beautiful views we have ever encountered. Have lunch on the deck of a restaurant in Kleine Scheidegg, eating wurst and enjoying the view of the Jungfrau. Wow! Take the train back to Grindelwald.
Day 8--It starts to rain
Our streak of good weather ends, as it starts to rain progressively harder throughout the day. In the morning we hike through the Gletscherschlucht gorge, which we all really enjoy. Drive over to Lauterbrunnen for lunch (gulaschuppe), and then tour Trummelbach falls in the afternoon. Decide against taking the cable car up to Murren as the weather worsens.
Day 9--Another rainy day
By now it is pouring non-stop. We decide to take the train to Interlaken, where we walk around in the rain, do some shopping, and have a traditional Swiss lunch of rosti and fondue. The rain never lets up all day, and we start to worry about tomorrow's drive over the Susten Pass and on to Italy.
More to come...
We awake to a dull, gray morning, which is disappointing since we are driving into the mountains. However, by the time we emerge from the series of tunnels leading out of Luzern, the weather has cleared and it is a postcard perfect day. We are all blown away by the beauty of Switzerland--the green hills and meadows, the mountains, the blue-green lakes. We have spent a lot of time in the Rockies, but this was much more beautiful. We stop several times along the way to admire the views. The drive from Interlaken to Grindelwald is stunning, with the Eiger and the Jungfrau in the distance. Spend the rest of the day wandering around Grindelwald and enjoying the views. Our hotel in Grindelwald is the Belvedere, which we really enjoyed. Fabulous views, and we cannot say enough about how great and friendly the staff is. We took half-board, and found the food to be quite good.
Day 6--First to Bachalspee
Another beautiful day. We took the First gondola to the top, and did the Bachalspee hike. Just gorgeous. Had a picnic lunch by the lake, surrounded by a herd of cows. On the trail back to the lift, we run into another family from our little town in NY. It is a small world.
Day 7--Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg
Our third straight nice day. We take the Mannlichen lift to the top and hike to Kleine Scheidegg. Some of the most beautiful views we have ever encountered. Have lunch on the deck of a restaurant in Kleine Scheidegg, eating wurst and enjoying the view of the Jungfrau. Wow! Take the train back to Grindelwald.
Day 8--It starts to rain
Our streak of good weather ends, as it starts to rain progressively harder throughout the day. In the morning we hike through the Gletscherschlucht gorge, which we all really enjoy. Drive over to Lauterbrunnen for lunch (gulaschuppe), and then tour Trummelbach falls in the afternoon. Decide against taking the cable car up to Murren as the weather worsens.
Day 9--Another rainy day
By now it is pouring non-stop. We decide to take the train to Interlaken, where we walk around in the rain, do some shopping, and have a traditional Swiss lunch of rosti and fondue. The rain never lets up all day, and we start to worry about tomorrow's drive over the Susten Pass and on to Italy.
More to come...
Aug 30th, 2005, 08:47 AM
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Thanks for the report, Neil. I thought about your trip last week when I saw coverage of the floods. In fact, I went back to look at your note from a few months ago to see what dates you were there, and it looked like maybe you got out of the BO just in time.
Not much we can do about the weather - we once went all the way to Maui (the sunny, south part) for a much-deserved spring break, only to have rain and high winds the whole time. But it looks like you had some good to go along with the rain. And I'm glad you got to do the Bachalpsee trip on a nice day; what a view!
Looking forward to hearing about Lake Como.
Not much we can do about the weather - we once went all the way to Maui (the sunny, south part) for a much-deserved spring break, only to have rain and high winds the whole time. But it looks like you had some good to go along with the rain. And I'm glad you got to do the Bachalpsee trip on a nice day; what a view!
Looking forward to hearing about Lake Como.
Aug 30th, 2005, 09:03 AM
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Day 10--an adventurous drive from Grindelwald to Tremezzo, Italy
It is still pouring, having rained non-stop for about 60 hours. The staff at the Belvedere informs us that we might not make it to Italy--the central part of Switzerland has already started to flood, and there are rumors that the sole road out of Grindelwald has been washed out, and that the Susten Pass is closed. After checking with the police, the staff advises us that those rumors are incorrect, and the roads on our planned route are still open. We decide to hightail it out of Grindelwald.
As we drove out of the high valley, the river that parallels the road was a churning maelstrom of brown foam. It looked like Lava Falls in the Grand Canyon, with huge rapids full of logs and other debris. The river was on the verge of overflowing its banks. There were police along the way, and it was clear that if it kept raining, there would be flooding (we learned later that the road got washed out later that day, and was closed for several days thereafter). In addition, there were new waterfalls spouting everywhere along the mountainsides, gushing deep brown, foamy water.
By the time we made it to Interlaken, there was water collecting everywhere we looked. The Brienzsee was turning brown around its edges, as the water flowed out of the mountains into the blue-green lake.
In a little while, we reached the Susten Pass, where we became part of a three car caravan headed in our direction. Visibility was poor in the rain, but every now and then the clouds lifted a little and we could see water in all directions--waterfalls, new streams, etc. As we climbed up the switchbacks, water was spouting over the road, sometimes carrying rocks and other debris. We would emerge from tunnels to drive through sheets of water. Everyone in our car was extremely quiet. We made it over the top of the pass, and the descent was a little better. Soon we were in the 17 km. Berthard Tunnel, heading to the Ticino (the Italian part of Switzerland).
When we emerged from the tunnel, the weather was completely different--no rain, patches of blue sky, and rivers flowing at their normal rate. We had a beautiful drive past Lake Lugano (including some detours as we got lost trying to find the road to Menaggio).
We finally made it to the beautiful shores of Lake Como, where we had a short drive to our hotel, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo Palace. A harrowing day ending in a beautiful place.
To be continued...
It is still pouring, having rained non-stop for about 60 hours. The staff at the Belvedere informs us that we might not make it to Italy--the central part of Switzerland has already started to flood, and there are rumors that the sole road out of Grindelwald has been washed out, and that the Susten Pass is closed. After checking with the police, the staff advises us that those rumors are incorrect, and the roads on our planned route are still open. We decide to hightail it out of Grindelwald.
As we drove out of the high valley, the river that parallels the road was a churning maelstrom of brown foam. It looked like Lava Falls in the Grand Canyon, with huge rapids full of logs and other debris. The river was on the verge of overflowing its banks. There were police along the way, and it was clear that if it kept raining, there would be flooding (we learned later that the road got washed out later that day, and was closed for several days thereafter). In addition, there were new waterfalls spouting everywhere along the mountainsides, gushing deep brown, foamy water.
By the time we made it to Interlaken, there was water collecting everywhere we looked. The Brienzsee was turning brown around its edges, as the water flowed out of the mountains into the blue-green lake.
In a little while, we reached the Susten Pass, where we became part of a three car caravan headed in our direction. Visibility was poor in the rain, but every now and then the clouds lifted a little and we could see water in all directions--waterfalls, new streams, etc. As we climbed up the switchbacks, water was spouting over the road, sometimes carrying rocks and other debris. We would emerge from tunnels to drive through sheets of water. Everyone in our car was extremely quiet. We made it over the top of the pass, and the descent was a little better. Soon we were in the 17 km. Berthard Tunnel, heading to the Ticino (the Italian part of Switzerland).
When we emerged from the tunnel, the weather was completely different--no rain, patches of blue sky, and rivers flowing at their normal rate. We had a beautiful drive past Lake Lugano (including some detours as we got lost trying to find the road to Menaggio).
We finally made it to the beautiful shores of Lake Como, where we had a short drive to our hotel, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo Palace. A harrowing day ending in a beautiful place.
To be continued...
Aug 30th, 2005, 09:51 AM
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Day 11- a day at the lake
Now back to postcard perfect weather, warm and sunny. Given the rain of the last several days, and our adventure of the day before, we decided to relax and enjoy the comforts of the GHTP. We had beautiful rooms overlooking the lake, Bellagio, and the mountains beyond. We spent part of the day at the hotel's beautiful garden pool, and the afternoon at its lakeside pool which actually floats on Lake Como. Pretty neat. Also played some tennis. In between, walked into the hamlet of Tremezzo and sat at an outdoor pizzeria/cafe, eating pizza and gelato while soaking up the sun and the views. Doesn't get much better than that. In the evening, we had dinner in the hotel's wine cave, where our host plied our girls with free appetizers while suggesting some terrific half-bottles of wine for my wife and I to share. All so Italian.
Day 12--Bellagio
My wife's cousin was joining us this day from Frankfurt, so we spent the morning (another beautiful day) by the lakefront waiting for his arrival. Later in the afternoon, the five of us took the ferry to Bellagio. We wandered through the town in the beautiful late day light. Our girls found a wonderful candy store where, yes, they acted like kids in a candy shop. We eventually found a lovely restaurant with an outdoor garden (the name of which I have forgotten). It was one of those great Italian dining experiences: you wander into a modest looking place and end up having a fabulous, simple meal served by friendly staff. As we walked back down the steep streets to the ferry, someone was playing Beatle songs on a recorder in the distance. A nice end to the evening.
Day 13--the hunt for George Clooney
It was overcast again, so we decided to get in the car and explore some of the towns around and above the lake. We spent several hours meandering here and there, until we ended up in the village of Laglio. My celebrity conscious family knew that this was where George Clooney has a lakeside villa. We parked the car and walked along the lake until we found his house, at which point my wife and older daughter turned into full-fledged paparazzi. They even started to devise plans to see if they could get someone to answer the door, when I advised them that I was leaving with the car. How embarrassing! We had lunch at a little pizzeria by the lake with a wood-burning oven and great pies.
For dinner, we drove up into the hills over Tremezzo to a place called La Figurida. Strictly traditional Lombard cuisine (no pasta, no pizza, but plenty of polenta), in a rustic place run by a mother and daughter who spoke no English. We were the only Americans there, and it was just a great experience. We worked through the language barrier and just had a wonderful meal, especially the dolci of fresh local berries and gelato.
Last installment to follow....
Now back to postcard perfect weather, warm and sunny. Given the rain of the last several days, and our adventure of the day before, we decided to relax and enjoy the comforts of the GHTP. We had beautiful rooms overlooking the lake, Bellagio, and the mountains beyond. We spent part of the day at the hotel's beautiful garden pool, and the afternoon at its lakeside pool which actually floats on Lake Como. Pretty neat. Also played some tennis. In between, walked into the hamlet of Tremezzo and sat at an outdoor pizzeria/cafe, eating pizza and gelato while soaking up the sun and the views. Doesn't get much better than that. In the evening, we had dinner in the hotel's wine cave, where our host plied our girls with free appetizers while suggesting some terrific half-bottles of wine for my wife and I to share. All so Italian.
Day 12--Bellagio
My wife's cousin was joining us this day from Frankfurt, so we spent the morning (another beautiful day) by the lakefront waiting for his arrival. Later in the afternoon, the five of us took the ferry to Bellagio. We wandered through the town in the beautiful late day light. Our girls found a wonderful candy store where, yes, they acted like kids in a candy shop. We eventually found a lovely restaurant with an outdoor garden (the name of which I have forgotten). It was one of those great Italian dining experiences: you wander into a modest looking place and end up having a fabulous, simple meal served by friendly staff. As we walked back down the steep streets to the ferry, someone was playing Beatle songs on a recorder in the distance. A nice end to the evening.
Day 13--the hunt for George Clooney
It was overcast again, so we decided to get in the car and explore some of the towns around and above the lake. We spent several hours meandering here and there, until we ended up in the village of Laglio. My celebrity conscious family knew that this was where George Clooney has a lakeside villa. We parked the car and walked along the lake until we found his house, at which point my wife and older daughter turned into full-fledged paparazzi. They even started to devise plans to see if they could get someone to answer the door, when I advised them that I was leaving with the car. How embarrassing! We had lunch at a little pizzeria by the lake with a wood-burning oven and great pies.
For dinner, we drove up into the hills over Tremezzo to a place called La Figurida. Strictly traditional Lombard cuisine (no pasta, no pizza, but plenty of polenta), in a rustic place run by a mother and daughter who spoke no English. We were the only Americans there, and it was just a great experience. We worked through the language barrier and just had a wonderful meal, especially the dolci of fresh local berries and gelato.
Last installment to follow....
Aug 30th, 2005, 10:20 AM
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Day 14--Bergamo, Varenna, and Isola Comacina
At our cousin's suggestion, we decide to take a drive to Bergamo, about 90 minutes away. We take the car ferry to Bellagio, then follow the lakeshore to the city of Lecco and on to the alta citta (old city) of Bergamo. The old walled portion of Bergamo sits atop a hill, and as soon as you pass through the ancient gate it is like being transformed. We visit the 13th century Duomo and the 12th century town hall (the oldest in Italy) that face the main piazza. We walk narrow cobble stoned streets, dotted with stores selling the area's prized porcini mushrooms and sinful looking polenta cakes. We have lunch in an outdoor restaurant in the old marketplace where we have the local version of ravioli, cooked in butter, sage, and topped with lardons. Fabulous. My daughters find another well-preserved candy shop, and then we visit the centuries old teatro where, supposedly, commedia d'ella arte was born. A great town to walk through.
On our way back, we stop in Varenna, its yellow and orange painted buildings glowing in the late afternoon light. We briefly wander around before catching the ferry back to Menaggio, where we drive back to our hotel.
For dinner that evening, we visit the lake's only island--Isola Comacina--and its restaurant, Locanda d'Isola Comacina. Locanda serves a 6 course set menu. What a meal. First, tomato halves topped with lemon slices. Then antipasto of marinated peppers, zucchini, celery, carrots, beets, and cauliflower. Then ham and braesola, followed by lake trout filleted at the table and topped with salt, lemon juice and olive oil. Next, "crushed" chicken served with insalate verde. Then a waiter arrived with a wheel of parmesan, cutting huge hunks with a long knife and dropping them in our hands. Dolci is fresh orange slices topped with gelato and banana liquer. Finally, our host Benevuti performs the fire ceremony to ward off the island's supposed curse: he pours brandy in a pot, ignites it, and stirs sugar into the flaming liquid, all the while telling the history of the island (in Italian). He then adds coffee and ladles out glasses of the sweet drink for everyone.
When we take the boat back to the mainland, there is a lakeshore concert of opera overtures being performed by a tuxedo clad orchestra. It is like a scene from a Fellini movie.
Day 15--Villa Carlotta
Our last day, and it is raining again. We spend a good part of the day reading and playing cards, but in the afternoon the rain stops. We walk next door and visit the 19th century Villa CArlotta and its extensive gardens. The place was built as a wedding present for an 18 year old princess. She hardly ever used it before she died at age 23. The place is ornate and oversized, but impressive.
For our final dinner, we eat down the road at a lakeside place called Darsena. It is filled with weekenders from Milan--stylish and noisy. We have some tasty local fish and head back to our hotel. At around 11:00, my wife realizes that she left her camera (which has all our trip pictures on its memory card) at the restaurant; we are leaving at 6:45 the following morning. She calls our front desk, which calls the restaurant, which sends someone to our hotel with the camera. Whew! A friendly end to our trip.
We drive to Malpensa early the next morning for an uneventful flight home. We had a wonderful time.
At our cousin's suggestion, we decide to take a drive to Bergamo, about 90 minutes away. We take the car ferry to Bellagio, then follow the lakeshore to the city of Lecco and on to the alta citta (old city) of Bergamo. The old walled portion of Bergamo sits atop a hill, and as soon as you pass through the ancient gate it is like being transformed. We visit the 13th century Duomo and the 12th century town hall (the oldest in Italy) that face the main piazza. We walk narrow cobble stoned streets, dotted with stores selling the area's prized porcini mushrooms and sinful looking polenta cakes. We have lunch in an outdoor restaurant in the old marketplace where we have the local version of ravioli, cooked in butter, sage, and topped with lardons. Fabulous. My daughters find another well-preserved candy shop, and then we visit the centuries old teatro where, supposedly, commedia d'ella arte was born. A great town to walk through.
On our way back, we stop in Varenna, its yellow and orange painted buildings glowing in the late afternoon light. We briefly wander around before catching the ferry back to Menaggio, where we drive back to our hotel.
For dinner that evening, we visit the lake's only island--Isola Comacina--and its restaurant, Locanda d'Isola Comacina. Locanda serves a 6 course set menu. What a meal. First, tomato halves topped with lemon slices. Then antipasto of marinated peppers, zucchini, celery, carrots, beets, and cauliflower. Then ham and braesola, followed by lake trout filleted at the table and topped with salt, lemon juice and olive oil. Next, "crushed" chicken served with insalate verde. Then a waiter arrived with a wheel of parmesan, cutting huge hunks with a long knife and dropping them in our hands. Dolci is fresh orange slices topped with gelato and banana liquer. Finally, our host Benevuti performs the fire ceremony to ward off the island's supposed curse: he pours brandy in a pot, ignites it, and stirs sugar into the flaming liquid, all the while telling the history of the island (in Italian). He then adds coffee and ladles out glasses of the sweet drink for everyone.
When we take the boat back to the mainland, there is a lakeshore concert of opera overtures being performed by a tuxedo clad orchestra. It is like a scene from a Fellini movie.
Day 15--Villa Carlotta
Our last day, and it is raining again. We spend a good part of the day reading and playing cards, but in the afternoon the rain stops. We walk next door and visit the 19th century Villa CArlotta and its extensive gardens. The place was built as a wedding present for an 18 year old princess. She hardly ever used it before she died at age 23. The place is ornate and oversized, but impressive.
For our final dinner, we eat down the road at a lakeside place called Darsena. It is filled with weekenders from Milan--stylish and noisy. We have some tasty local fish and head back to our hotel. At around 11:00, my wife realizes that she left her camera (which has all our trip pictures on its memory card) at the restaurant; we are leaving at 6:45 the following morning. She calls our front desk, which calls the restaurant, which sends someone to our hotel with the camera. Whew! A friendly end to our trip.
We drive to Malpensa early the next morning for an uneventful flight home. We had a wonderful time.
Aug 30th, 2005, 01:50 PM
#8
Thanks for the great trip report. I live about an hour away from the entrance to the Gotthard tunnel (canton Uri side). It is really a unique experience to drive to the entrance of the Gotthard tunnel in wet, foggy miserable weather and to drive out into sunny, inviting weather of canton Tessin.. It often happens that when we have terrible weather, the ticino (tessin) side is great.
Glad to hear you got out of Grindelwald in time. What a mess! Things are drying up now and most roads are passable again. Engelberg is still blocked, however.
So, did you get a peek of George Clooney after all?
Glad to hear you got out of Grindelwald in time. What a mess! Things are drying up now and most roads are passable again. Engelberg is still blocked, however.
So, did you get a peek of George Clooney after all?
Aug 30th, 2005, 03:58 PM
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Great report Neil! Plenty of detail and a few cute quips to boot.
? - Approximately how much per person was the dinner in Isola Comacina? We're headed to Bellagio in Mid-October and that's the first I've heard of the restaurant (and I've read 3 guidebooks and over a year of fodors!).
We'll also be headed to Luzern and definitely have the Old Swiss House on our list.
? - Approximately how much per person was the dinner in Isola Comacina? We're headed to Bellagio in Mid-October and that's the first I've heard of the restaurant (and I've read 3 guidebooks and over a year of fodors!).
We'll also be headed to Luzern and definitely have the Old Swiss House on our list.
Aug 30th, 2005, 04:09 PM
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Hi,
I am so glad that you made it safely to dry turf. What a ride that must have been. I would start smoking during that drive. I had friends who were in Switzerland for a week and never saw a mountain.(weather) It sounds like a great trip in spite of the rain.
I am so glad that you made it safely to dry turf. What a ride that must have been. I would start smoking during that drive. I had friends who were in Switzerland for a week and never saw a mountain.(weather) It sounds like a great trip in spite of the rain.
Aug 30th, 2005, 05:06 PM
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No, we never saw Signor Clooney, except in a picture on the front page of the local paper.
Locanda costs 56 euros per person, which includes all the Soave you can drink. You also have to pay 6 euros for the round trip boat from the mainland.
Locanda costs 56 euros per person, which includes all the Soave you can drink. You also have to pay 6 euros for the round trip boat from the mainland.
Aug 30th, 2005, 05:15 PM
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I enjoyed the rest of the report. Sounds like a great vacation. You hit many of my favorite spots. I loved Bergamo - but it was 1991 when we were there. Time to go back again, I think. We also considered having lunch at Isola Comacina but ran out of time.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
Aug 30th, 2005, 05:26 PM
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Schuler, do you mind if I ask where you live? I lived in Stans for nearly 6 years (until last year) and really miss it! And of course Zentral Schweiz has been on mind a lot this past week with the floods.
Aug 30th, 2005, 09:48 PM
#15
I work in Schwyz and live in Rothenthurm. We got lucky with the floods and nothing happened in our area. However, my kids did have to stay home from school because their Illgau teacher couldn't make it out of Muotathal.
Sep 5th, 2005, 04:24 PM
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Great report! We haven't been to Germany yet and want to do that -- but we also want to go back to see more of Italy. SO, your itinerary is most intriguing -- Switzerland is also on my list.
Looks like I need to pull out my maps and start planning...
Looks like I need to pull out my maps and start planning...
Sep 9th, 2005, 05:20 AM
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Enjoyed your trip report. We had been in Frankfurt numerous times, but only recently discovered the restaurant in the Stadel Museum that you mentioned. I believe it is called Holbeins rather than Holsteins. It was in a converted courtyard of the museum, great atmosphere and food.
Sep 9th, 2005, 05:30 AM
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Great report and especially liked the info on Tremezzo. If you did it over again, would you still opt to stay in Tremezzo or Bellagio? What was the "vibe" at Tremezzo like compared to Bellagio?
Happy you got out of Switz. just in time. You can truly say, "apres moi, le deluge."
Happy you got out of Switz. just in time. You can truly say, "apres moi, le deluge."
Sep 10th, 2005, 03:47 AM
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Tremezzo v. Bellagio--that is a good question. Tremezzo is barely a town, just a few cafes and a couple of stores. But we loved the hotel and found it to be a good central location for exploring the lake. And you do have the Villa Carlotta right there.
Bellagio is obviously more of a town, with many more dining, shopping, and strolling options. But also many more tourists wandering around. And I actually think the view from Tremezzzo looking at Bellagio is nicer. Either way, you cannot go wrong.
Bellagio is obviously more of a town, with many more dining, shopping, and strolling options. But also many more tourists wandering around. And I actually think the view from Tremezzzo looking at Bellagio is nicer. Either way, you cannot go wrong.
