Trip report: Just back from Florence, Lucca, and Pisa
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Trip report: Just back from Florence, Lucca, and Pisa
Wow! What weather. Nothing but blue skys for our October 11-16th visit.
Florence- First visit to this city. Read the postings and expected hordes of pick-pockets and unfit mothers with drugged children in tow to attach us at the train platform. No such misfortune, but it is a shifty town of quick bargins and grifters. We did see (as we have across most of southern Europe) the women and children at the entrances to most churches, but not many. Also, as is my policy in most large cities, I don't carry a wallet, but use a leg case for my valuables. Good thing. A young street urchin did walk up between my wife and I and grabbed my arm to divert attention from my back pocket. My pocket flap was up, but nothing lost. One disturbing aspect of Florence is the mile after mile of street vendors in front of legit businesses. Felt a lot like being in Jamacia- everbody has a deal and you don't dare make eye contact or they will hound you to death. Stayed at the really wonderful Hotel City, just several blocks from the central station and also the Duomo et al. Franchesca at the front desk cared for our Uffizi and Acc. reservations. Note; Go early! We had 08:15 reservations for both places and it is a rare treat to walk through the still sleeping streets of Florence. While the culture is great in this city, the amount of people competing for the same resources makes for an overwhelmingly crowded experience. It is either Florence that aspires to be NY City or NY City that aspires to be Florence, but they are definately twins on different continents. Come for the museums, stay for the food. Not a bad meal in sight. Got a wonderful suggestion for an awesome Florence seafood ristorante: i quattro amici- just blocks from central station. Best seafood of the trip. Upscale, mid-priced.
Lucca: A paradise if you like the quiet side of Italy. Don't even think of missing the archaeological ruins at Basilica of San Giovanni. A 1st century BC Roman bath house, complete with tile floor, had been unearthed. Food was excellent, crowds small, and the evening walks along the walled cities perimeter is not to be missed. Take the bus, just a few bucks and less hassle than the trains.
Pisa- I cannot begin to adequately describe my overall disdain for this filthy tourist trap. Outside of the green space surrounding the tower and duomo, this city is a dirty, frayed, souvenir shop. Walking the main street from the central station to the tower also included, at no additional charge, one of the worst smelling sewer systems ever. We only stayed here one night to be close to the Pisa airport (Ryanair) but one night was wayyyyyyyyyyy to much.
Ciao
Florence- First visit to this city. Read the postings and expected hordes of pick-pockets and unfit mothers with drugged children in tow to attach us at the train platform. No such misfortune, but it is a shifty town of quick bargins and grifters. We did see (as we have across most of southern Europe) the women and children at the entrances to most churches, but not many. Also, as is my policy in most large cities, I don't carry a wallet, but use a leg case for my valuables. Good thing. A young street urchin did walk up between my wife and I and grabbed my arm to divert attention from my back pocket. My pocket flap was up, but nothing lost. One disturbing aspect of Florence is the mile after mile of street vendors in front of legit businesses. Felt a lot like being in Jamacia- everbody has a deal and you don't dare make eye contact or they will hound you to death. Stayed at the really wonderful Hotel City, just several blocks from the central station and also the Duomo et al. Franchesca at the front desk cared for our Uffizi and Acc. reservations. Note; Go early! We had 08:15 reservations for both places and it is a rare treat to walk through the still sleeping streets of Florence. While the culture is great in this city, the amount of people competing for the same resources makes for an overwhelmingly crowded experience. It is either Florence that aspires to be NY City or NY City that aspires to be Florence, but they are definately twins on different continents. Come for the museums, stay for the food. Not a bad meal in sight. Got a wonderful suggestion for an awesome Florence seafood ristorante: i quattro amici- just blocks from central station. Best seafood of the trip. Upscale, mid-priced.
Lucca: A paradise if you like the quiet side of Italy. Don't even think of missing the archaeological ruins at Basilica of San Giovanni. A 1st century BC Roman bath house, complete with tile floor, had been unearthed. Food was excellent, crowds small, and the evening walks along the walled cities perimeter is not to be missed. Take the bus, just a few bucks and less hassle than the trains.
Pisa- I cannot begin to adequately describe my overall disdain for this filthy tourist trap. Outside of the green space surrounding the tower and duomo, this city is a dirty, frayed, souvenir shop. Walking the main street from the central station to the tower also included, at no additional charge, one of the worst smelling sewer systems ever. We only stayed here one night to be close to the Pisa airport (Ryanair) but one night was wayyyyyyyyyyy to much.
Ciao
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 319
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While you're on your way to Lucca or while you're staying there, consider a side trip to Montecatini Terme, the spa town only a few km away. Go to the Testuccio spa and just stroll through the building and grounds. It's a temple to 19th Century elegance that continues to preserve a beautiful, slower-paced lifestyle.
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 15
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The trip was fine, we enjoyed it, I don't want to say the memories were bad, although I must say that Italy continues to somewhat underwhelm me. Instead of feeling like I just experienced a wonderful, broadening experience in a great European city, Italy leaves me feeling like I just went to a tourist destination. Nothing "wrong" with that, I guess, but less fulfilling for my travel experience dollars.
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Thanks for your report. We're leaving tomorrow for Rome, Lucca, & Florence.
We'd considered taking a day trip to Pisa but your report helped clarify our decision not to. (On a tour, we saw the tower et al - still remember the tacky stands, a la Tijuana - but didn't see the town.)
We'd considered taking a day trip to Pisa but your report helped clarify our decision not to. (On a tour, we saw the tower et al - still remember the tacky stands, a la Tijuana - but didn't see the town.)




