Jay_G

TD - thanks for the congrats! I'm still finding every day a joy, I know people who've told me that'll change (particularly in the teenage years) but at the moment I'm just savouring every instant.

Glad you made it back safely and hope JR's results are good.

I'm definitely going to have to give Espace a go, sounds great. I've eaten bone marrow previously, but only mixed with other ingredients, or sucked direct from the bone (the 'benefits' of having a Caribbean mother) as a youngster, so have only ever been able to say "it tastes like bone marrow". I've always found that it's evident that it's come from an animal, but doesn't really taste like anything else.

I think you had a great 'taster' visit of Lyon, but as you imply, there's so much more to see. It's a shame you missed the silk atelier, judging by the wrong direction you took I believe I've been to the same one and it's certainly worth a visit. I think the guy that owns/runs it is one of only two people that is still allowed to call himself a Canut, as he still has one of the only working original looms in existence. He's also got that (and I take my wifes's and the group of 30 schoolgirls I took there, words for it) indefinable attractive French bloke thing. You know: floppy hair, well dressed, not amazing looking but incredibly attractive nonetheless. He even made me interested in the process of silk-weaving, something I'm sure there are very few people actually capable of.

Your and JR's impressions of Lyon are very similar to how I think of it. Like Paris, but less bustle, more space, less hectic and definitely cleaner. I love both, but Lyon definitely wins for me.

Thanks for the trip report. It's got me thinking even more than usual about my summer trip and reminded me of things I absolutely must re-visit.

TDudette

Thanks for your kind words Jay. And may the teen years not be too bad. We have 3 new babies in our neighborhood.

Back to food: Is there a restaurant kitty corner and across the Place Bellefour from Espace? One of the hotel clerks mentioned a "well known, top notch chef". She couldn't remember the name of the restaurant but described where it was located.

The silk guy looked pretty hot in the photo I saw. Perhaps like Tom Conti? If you can find it, the movie he was in "American Dreamer in Paris" with Jo Beth Williams gave me that feeling! It's actually a fun movie that takes place in Paris. DH and I have watched it over and over for giggles. Can't get DH to wear a scarf though...

I hope you'll do a report about Lyon after your next visit and I hope we can go back with both of us in one piece!

JulieVikmanis

Jay, Yes, we did get to Bistrot de Lyon but not for New Year's Eve. Our hotel booked us at the trendy Jope for the Eve but we had our New year's Day lunch at Bistrot de Lyon. Food was good and decor fantastic. They we're however, completely filled and service lagged. Even so I'd return. We also dined at Garet and Merciere, both of which I preferred for food though found all three to have equivalent atmosphere, just in different ways. Saying this reminds me that I haven't yet done my report from that trip so I'll try to get on it asap--along with finishing my report from Piemonte and Nice and another from Barcelona.

I share the general sentiment that I find you and TDudette expressing that Lyon is a delightful city. Although I guess it's no longer the second largest city in France (Marseille is that, right?) I just never seemed to find any of that "second city" effort to "catch up" It is what it is and the Lyonnais appear to feel justifiably proud. I sure would.

TDudette, We were in Menton one year in November for a week and loved it. I thought I had done a report from that trip but can't seem to find it now. Spending that amount of time there made me realize why it became such a mecca for English tourists at one time. It seems very livable. And I also found prices there much more reasonable than in other parts of the Riviera.

TDudette

Julie, You did send it to me when I first started the TR in a separate post in case you want to re-read what you said:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...and-london.cfm

Perhaps Menton and Lyon share similar atmospheres because they aren't #1 so can be wonderful places in their own right. Less touristy, more places to just "get on with it"?

Marseille and Genoa had the same "feel" to me also. Admittedly, it isn't fair to make a judgement without longer visits!

TDudette

Jay, I just looked up Cour des Loges-OMG how beautiful. But yes, for a very special occasion.

Jay_G

Hi TD and Julie,
I'm playing catch-up after a long weekend away from the computer.

You've both actually got me thinking that I should write a trip report after my next trip to Lyon. Your enthusiasm is very infectious! I'm actually looking into seeing if I can squeeze a week in at the end of May, rather than wait until summer...

TD - I think the restaurant your hotel clerk may have been trying to tell you about is Le Sud, one of Paul Bocuse's brasseries that's just across the road from Bellecour on place Antonin Poncet. Definitely worth a visit on your next trip, maybe while you stay at the Cour des Loges!

Julie - I think your summation of the Lyonnais attitude regarding their position in France is absolutely spot on! They're Lyonnais and proud and not trying to be anything they're not. And I love it.

For the first time ever, I may have to make a list of all the things I want to (re)visit and the restaurants I want to eat at when I'm next in Lyon. I think it's as close as I'll ever get to an itinerary. Must be getting old...

TDudette

Hi Jay, Yes, it was Le Sud. And for sure another reason to return although Cour des Loges is beyond our price range!

Looking forward to you TR and list.

grandmere

Enjoying your report, TD! Sounds like a super time. I like Lyon, too.

TDudette

merci, grandm!

TDudette

topping for jjrod

Debs

WOW! What a great trip report! Genoa from Menton for a day trip just gives you a small taste of Genoa. We were there ealier this year and found it refreshingly off the tourist map - especially for Americans! In fact, our hotel was about a 2 minute walk from the Piazza de Ferrari, so we passed that every morning on our many day trips south of Genoa. Spent a lot of time in the port area and found it to be relaxing, but full of energy at the same time.

We'll be in the South of France next year and are planning on a day trip to Menton and 'V' ... your report is perfectly timed as there aren't many trip reports on this area.

Thanks for posting!

TDudette

Thanks, Debs. It was quite cold and DH wasn't well so we moved much less quickly than usual. It will be nice to read about your trip.

taconictraveler

I'm bookmarking to read later, as I want to go back to Lyon. Thanks for this.

Adelaidean

Glad this popped up again, would have missed it otherwise. Menton looks interesting, had not heard of it before. I have enjoyed looking up other towns in the area, looks like a great area for a holiday.

kja

Thanks for bringing this TR to my attention, TDudette, and for the informative details about Menton and Lyon! Sounds like a wonderful way to celebrate 32 years of marriage -- awesome!