Bigal

This River Boat trip was inspired by a trip last year by Grand Circle Tours in which we flew to Nice and were driven by bus to Aix and then to the boat at Arles and up the Rhone/Soane ending in Paris. This time on April 30th we flew to CDG and were bussed to Le Harve to embark on the Viking Seine a river boat that holds 150 for the Viking River Cruises.

Not too long ago there were some questions about ATMs in CDG and my experience in Terminal 2 showed no problems with multiple ATMs, one of which had a bank attatched.

The drive to Le Havre was about 2 hours but fairly ominous as it rained all the way. Luckily, except for a couple of drizzles here and there the 7 days of the cruise did not have a weather problem.

The next day we went by bus to the D-Day Museum at Arromanches and later to the landing beaches. I had been to the Museum on the 40th Anniversary D-Day and with another American vet who also had been in the landings we were presented with commemorative medals of the occasion. Even better, they refunded our admission fees. I had told our tour guide of this and the museum people had me write a few words in their memory book. Part of what I wrote that was that I hardly expected to be able to do this a second time 21 years later.

As we left the museum to go to lunch I saw a young man (he was 35 I found out later) running to our tour guide who then put him in my direction. He was quite a bit distraught and almost on the point of tears. One hand was over his heart and his other held the hand of his young son. "All my life I wanted to meet and thank someone who landed on those beaches" he said in halting English. It was so moving I guess we were all ready for a good cry. We looked at his son (I guess about six) and the father said that he couldn't understand what we were talking about. At lunch with my group I mentioned that I felt a bit remiss in not being able to show some bit of appreciation on my part. On the way out near the door, Voila, there he was having lunch with his pretty wife and two lovely boys. My input then was to have a three cheek embrasse and take pictures standing together. Later that afternoon fate injected itself again for as we left the American Cemetery by Omaha Beach he and his family were on their way to pay their respects. Since they live in Eastern France near the Luxembourg border I would assume that they spent at least a day of their Bank Holiday Weekend with memories of the landings.

This has been my fourth visit to the Cemetery and the beaches and I've been asked if it's been an emotional experience at the Cemetery. Actually it's not emotional and any je ne sais pas quoi is only evidenced a short distance west on the beach by Vierville-sur-mer where there is a road leading off the beaches. I've always revisted there if I can for that was the road that got us off the beaches.

Word spread to the rest of the boat and that evening at dinner Joyce and I were the center of attraction in the telling and retelling of our experience.

Bigal

PART 2

We went to Honfleur by bus in the AM and the wonderful part of this ancient port city was that like Bayeux it was left in tact on the invasion day. We came back to the boat for lunch and set sail up the Seine to

Caudebec, a small town with a lovely church called Notre Dame.We set sail again in the early hours and while eating breakfast we docked in Rouen. Breakfast on the boat was a treat. My particular treats were delicious Norway smoked salmon and perfectly made fried eggs once over lightly.Lunch was in the dining room or the option of buffet in the lounge. Dinner was multi courses a la Français ....excellent but short of formidable.

We docked next to the bridge that led to Rouens magnificent cathedral and went down the street of the clock with no traffic and a mixture of stores. The clock was covered up being under repair. On to the new church of Jeannne D'Arc and the big open square where she met her fate. Twas not as extensive as the route made by Cap'n Mike(a friend of mine on Bonjourparis.com who was born in Rouen) who started from the RR Station on the North side. Our guide was born and bred in Rouen and insisted that the correct pronunciation of his city was Rwan in one syllable rather than Rooan.

With the settlement of the Danes he felt that many came from Dane Law of northern England (now Yorkshire) which was conquered by the Danes prior to Normandy. In fact he feels that Normans and those from Yorkshire are racially related and have similar appearances. Hey Cap'n, think you could pass for an Englishman? Zat is before you open zee mouth and give zee game away.

Next stop was Andelys where Richard the Lion Heart , King of England and Duke of Normandy left the ruins of a fortress-chateau. The afternoon was Giverney that was in gorgeous full bloom.

Auvers sur Oise in the AM the final resting place of Vincent van Gogh, a wonderful place for a day trip from
Paris. And that eveniong we docked in Paris on the far side of the Tour Eiffel. After dinner we went on a boat ride on the Seine. I would advise only to go in an open boat since the covered ones have a very limited
view and is hardly worth the trouble or cost.

The next morning was a 3 hour sightseeing trip which Joyce and I passed and we spent some time in the 7th mainly around rue Cler.We went back to the boat to pack and attend the farewell dinner. Just a wonderful 7 days. Sunday after breakfast we transferred to the Au Manoir St.Germain hotel which we booked for 4 days. We had a wondrful time then and will tell all about it...

Bigal

We booked the BW Au Manoir St.Germain on line thru BW. We heartedly recommend.Make sure you take the rate option of "Best Rates(BR)" for a deluxe quality room. Rack rate for twin bedded 18 sq meter at 260€ for 195€ including buffet breakfast. Located on Blvd. St. G. opposite Cafe Flore,Deux Magots and St.G /over Armani and Brasserie Lipp. Across the street the Madison Hotel and an Italian restaurant with a sign in the window "This is the place says Underwood".

After unpacking in our delightful room we went across the Blvd to that great sandwich cafeteria that expanded and displaced the NAF NAF that was there to establish a great sit down self-service cafe. Signs of the times it has a multitude of signs saying the equivalent of "Please respect the health concern of others. This is a non-smoking place." We walked down the Blvd. St. G. to get to rue St.Andre des Arts as Joyce wanted to look at the novelty necklesses that are currently hot.We wanted to get there by the Cour du Commerce (a passage behind Le Procope that also housed the Cour de Rohan that are "must sees" on a couple of internet postings. When we got there we realized we'd been there many times on the perilous cobblestones and the Cour de Rohan was mostly out of view because of a closed heavy gate.

As usual we make an unsuccessful stab at trying a bus. That evening we were planning to take the bus to rue Pontoise instead of the Metro. Had to go down in the Metro to buy a carnet of tickets first which should have told me something. Confirmed with the driver as to our destination and after I pushed the get off button at Place Maubert the bus in high gear passed our stop and went to Cardinal Lemoine. We had to walk back to Pontoise a bit shaken up from sitting on the seats above the front wheels that you have to climb up to sit down.

Monday was VE Day and a three day bank holiday. We went to the Grand Palais to view Henri Rousseau exhibit.We had booked over the internet. He can possibly be callled the Grandma Moses of his day. He had a wonderful primative approach to art and is probably responsible for its eventual acceptance as an art form.After we exited the show we found ourselves at the VE Day celebration on the Champs Elysée. Very impressive as J.Chirac himself was in charge.Noticable was a large number of battle-dressed police held in reserve. It seemed quite apparant to me that there were just a couple of token blacks and hardly any that would seemingly be North African. Part of the recent problems??

Tuesday we went on a walking tour with Paris-walks.com. It was called a Paris Fashion Walk centering about the Palais Royal. Interesting was the Didier Ludot 3 stores on the east side of the court that feature vintage designer dresses in their windows. He also had a store on the east side featuring "The Little Black Dress" and a delight for those interested in this item and the important part it played in fashion.The walk continued on rue de la Paix and Place Vendome. We did go into the Collette store which is an experience.The store is high priced and odd in product and staff. Our visit was highlighted by a young couple that couldn't keep their hands off each other though I first noticed her by the white outfit she was wearing with the matching Kelly bag. It was David Beckham and his wife and when the buzz started in the store because of recognition their bodyguards led them up the stairs to the garment department.She couldn't keep her hands off him, especially his derriere.Gotta say he was unexpectidly stunning.

Bigal

PART 3

After the fashion show walk the drizzle slowed down and we decided to do Gallerie Lafayette and have lunch at Lina's sandwich concession on the 2nd floor but it had been converted to a regular sit down restaurant which is not our style for lunch. Went to a little cafe and had very good Croque Monsieurs. Then we "did" the stores .Somehow we got to the rue de Rivoli where we bought a T shirt for one of our grand-daughters and from there a leisurely walk back to our hotel.

Wednesday we went to the Rodin Museum which we hadn't been to in quite a while. The old chateau was quite impressive and we got a kick out of the squeeking floors. Everybody's footsteps added a bit of music. The gardens were magnificent and we had lunch at their café. The wind was a bit brisk so we stayed indoors.
Eating in the garden would have been nice but the food selection was extremely basic and all the spin about it was a bit over-done. Apres Rodin we went to the Bon Marché and we were very impressed how it had been fixed up since our last visit. In our humble opinion it ranks pretty high in how a department store should look.We went next door to the Epicerie to pick up my Camembert fix to take home.You know, the non pasturized version. From there we walked back to the hotel where we made ready packing for our trip home the next morning.

I would like to tell of our dining experiences in Paris. Lunch for us is a bite and baguette sandwiches in France are usually so good. So here are the 4 dinners we had.


LE PETIT PONTOISE

For this restaurant many thanks and also an apology to St.Germain(another friend of ours on Bonjourparis. Thanks for letting us all know about a place that deserves to be kept one's secret. An apology because in a discussion about favorite places (which St.G seemed to have placed it) I said that many favorite places are a comfort zone for alot of different reasons that might not appeal to all. In my opinion this is a favorite place because it is a find.

It's a not so small small restaurant, I guess about 20 tables with the new trend of attractive tables without cloths. No menus,only slates and recitations which were done in English for us. The entire filled room was handled by a young man and woman with no delays despite an extensive selection. I offer what we had with no adjectives...everything was super.

Entrées. White asparagus(room temp.vinagrette) and Grilled shrimp (I suspect small langustine on the slate)
Plats. Roast Chicken with "Home-made" mashed potatoes
" (I suspect the slate said grand-mere)
Magret(Breast of duck grilled rare) with wonderful veg and roasted potatoes
Dessert. We shared a Tarte Tatin. Together with 2 Kir and a glass of wine it came to 75€.

There seemed to be only one other American couple the other side of the room.We were on our best behavior. But one French lady in the middle of the room who kept on her all weather jacket during dinner made a few phone calls for all to hear.

We'll be back.


BISTROT DE BRETEUIL


This restaurant is one of the best buys with high class food and decor and wonderful table linen and glassware.The 3 course dinner for 33€ includes an aperitif, a bottle of wine and coffee. Unfortunately a little too cool for the terrace that night which was a missed pleasure..
Entrées. Smoked Salmon and Half dozen Oysters
Plats. Fillet of Durade with veg and Potatoes
Dessert. Crepes Flambée The bill was 66€ and the portions were more than ample.


LE PETIT MARGUERY

We are "regulars" here as attested to by the welcome from Claude our server.
We also asked Claude about the movie which was titled by the name of the restaurant and we have discussed here on BP and he advised me that the scenes were not shot in the restaurant but in a special studio set.

Entrée. Scallop Ravioli in a mushroom sauce , Foie Gras
Plats. Rascasse, Steak
Dessert. Strawberry Pastry Cake....Souflee

Note.....I am not a souflee eater and recently somebody mentioned how is it possible that somebody can eat in Le Petit Marguery and not have their fabulous souflee. So I did and as far as you lovers of souflees (especially the sweet ones) lots a luck.

On the way back to the hotel I was "taken" by a Vietnamese taxi driver who, would you believe was confused as how to get to St. Germain de Pres.A few words back and forth en route. Can you imagine me telling him the streets to turn. I cooly gave him less than the jacked up meter and he didn't say boo.


Le Petit Zinc


This is the two thumbs down.As an added gesture I slap my left hand on a semi folded right arm.
Le Petit Zinc is an old time favorite of mine when it was located at the corner of rue Buci and rue Seine and shared the large sidewalk seafood stand with its sister restaurant Muniche. It was very rustic and a favorite of fashion people. The new place (as of 1992)seemed a bit too jazzy and we went there because we were leaving Paris early in the AM and we wanted a place barely a block from the hotel. My wife ordered steak/frite but subbing mashed potato. The plat came out with frites and when we finally got the mashed we asked to take the big mound of frites away and we got a wave of the hand from the waiter like forgettabout it,it won't hurt you. The mashed were cold as were the mashed that came with my fish.We tested the frites when they came out and they were lousy and cold also.

The table next to us was occupied by a Frenchman who had some sort of a fish stew. He sent it back and wasn't happy when it came back to him. They charged him for the drink but not for the dish. They decided not to charge us for the drinks.

The next morning was back home and the jet lag we only get from east to west.

Underhill

Thanks, Al--really interesting report.

Sue4

Enjoyed your report - sounds like a great trip!

blh

Thanks for an interesting report. Did you have any problems on the three day holiday weekend with many things being closed? Trying to plan for same time next year.

Bigal

No problems with the holiday, in fact the Monday that was the official day was probably our most active. The museum and restaurant reservations were made in advance. The parade and ceremony with Chirac (which I would have avoided had I known) was an added treat.

Bigal

Let me say that any closings for the holiday were only on Monday. Saturday and Sunday were normal Saturdays and Sundays.

Bigal

This past few day I've been getting my credit card statements and I got a big surprise to find that my hotel (BW Au Manoir St. Germain)had converted my bill from Euros to Dollars. Convenient? No. since $1.27 on the CC was much better than $1.32 (even adding on the CC 3%. This happened once before on a small restaurant bill in London.

I emailed the hotel and by return email they advised they will credit my CC with the extra difference. No problem and even accepted my approx. arithmetic.

Moral of the story....check the CC stub that you are about to sign.And also realize that CC is one of the best ways to exchange currency.

kopp

Bigal, your report was a wonderful way for me to start my morning! Thank you for a trip through France. If only I had a nice croissant....

My husband and I visited the Normandy Beaches and surrounding area several years ago. Although my dad was not part of the actual D-Day landings (he was in the Army in Germany at that time), visiting the beaches and cemetery is something he occasionally talks about visiting.

I hadn't even thought of doing it as part of a river cruise, but your trip has inspired me to look into it further. You say this trip was inspired by a trip last year with Grand Circle. Was this one also a Grand Circle trip?

Bigal

For some reason Grand Circle only had the trip tru Provence. This was Viking River Cruises.

THERESA10

Hey Bigal

I just wanted to Thank You for starting My Holiday in such a Wonderful way. The story of the Frenchman and His Son at the Beaches just made Me cry. But a good Cry. I just want to Thank You also for Your Service to the United States and Europe.
I was in DC 2 weeks ago and finally fulfilled My Dream of going to the Wall and getting the pencil sketch of the Name of the Capt. I had been wearing His MIA braclet since I was 12, and it was the most moving experience of My Life. And when I got to the WWII Memorial I was about to fall apart. I am so grateful to our Men in Service, past and present.
I am so glad You and Your Wife had such a lovely trip and I wish You many many more.
Theresa from Detroit

CarolA

I wanted to post my thank you as I read this Memorial Day.

I was in Normandy just before the 60th anniversary of the landings and it truly is an amazing site to see. You have my admiration for both making the landings and for having the stamina all the years later to keep touring... I hope I am as able bodied!

Bigal

Theresa and Carol....Thanks alot for your postings.They are well appreciated

Underhill

Again, Al, our thanks for what you and your fellows did on D-Day. We owe a huge debt of gratitude.

Bigal

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Dave_in_Paris

I suggest you spend some time in the hilltop wine town of Sancerre. Breathtaking views of the Loire, and the countryside of the Cher and the Nievre, and the wine is good! There also is a new Maison des vins in town, with informative exhibits in English, and of course, there are vintners and caves. On the other side of the Loire, in La Charite-sur-Loire, the town that was too much for Joan of Arc, Jean Paul Quenault, a former restaurateur, runs a little shop called Le Vin, a great place to buy local, and other wines. He is generous with tastings, and you'll often find him in conversation with a vintner or other wine professional. This is low-key, lightly visited and beautiful countyside, and the people are great. We recently arranged a cave and vineyard visit at the Sancerre vinyard of Vincent Grall. Madame Grall speaks excellent English and she's a very gracious host.
http://www.grall-vigneron-sancerre.com/
At the least, why not seek out a bottle of Sancerre red, Alphonse Mellot is a good one, http://www.mellot.com/ and a bottle of Pouilly fume white, say by Serge Dageneneau and his daughters,
http://www.s-dagueneau-filles.fr/
Tasting can be inspiring. A good bottle of red brought us to France many years ago.

Dave_in_Paris

Sorry for the above. Moving it to the right thread.

Katerbug

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