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Trip Report: Four Days for Normandy

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Trip Report: Four Days for Normandy

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Old Aug 21st, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Trip Report: Four Days for Normandy

This is part of a report of our 19 day trip to Italy and France. For the previous entries, go to www.explorerbear.blogspot.com

August 13: Honfleur, France

Local merchants were just setting up in the market square this morning on our way to breakfast. Vendors sold cheese, herbal soaps, and farm fresh fruits and vegetables. People on bicycles hurried by with loaves of fresh bread in their wicker baskets. The air was cool and breezy. What a welcome contrast to the oppressive heat of Italy.

Sainte Catherine's Church is directly across the street from our hotel Built in the 1400s, the wooden roof looks like the hull of a ship and was most likely built by ship builders. Pillars inside on pedestals are made from tall trees. There's a wonderful bell tower too, but it's actually housed in a different building across the street.

Just down the street we visited Musee Eugene Boudin. The first floor held a fascinating exhibit of clothing from the 19th century. Dolls in elegant clothing were actually once used to display the latest fashions using beautiful French floral fabrics. Another floor held artwork by artists in Honfleur. Many showed the town as it looked in the 1800s. I like the way paintings give us a glimpse into the past of how some places that we are seeing today looked long ago. The museum also had a special exhibition by artist, Alfred Besnard. Many of his paintings depicted people with gentle faces. Old museum catalogs of his works were displayed nicely in glass cases.

Driving out of the village, we followed signs to Cote de Grace where there's a view looking down at Honfleur and the Normandy Bridge. The bridge opened in 1995 and is the longest cable stayed bridge in the world. It joins upper and lower Normandy. A charming church, Notre Dame de Grace is just down the road. Built in the 1600s by mariners, it is decorated with miniature wooden sailing, fishing, and passenger boats.

Tonight we attended the last 10 minutes of mass in the church and walked around town. It is such a pleasant place to visit.

August 14: Bayeux-Honoring Heroes of World War II

The sun was just beginning to peek from behind the clouds this morning as we headed to Arromanches. Hay was carefully bundled in all of the fields and cows grazed in green meadows. Wild flowers were abundant everywhere and roses grew alongside stone walls.

Today we drove westward to visit some of the beaches and museums in Normandy. At the Cinema Circulaire Arromanches, we saw a 360 degrees video about the Allied invasion. Black and white newsreels were combined with color video of the same area today. The film ended with footage of the cemeteries with thousands of tiny white crosses. People were visibly moved.

At the Musee de Debarquement we saw interactive models of the D Day Invasion. As you looked at the models of how the artificial harbors, or mulberries were built, you could look out the panoramic picture windows and see the actual concrete caissons that remain. Later when we walked the beach, we saw a moss covered caisson lying derelict on the sand.

Inside the museum were cases honoring each of the allied countries. The cases contained crisply pressed uniforms, shiny medals, and personal possessions such as ID cards, photos, soaps, and rations. At one of the videos we saw the emphasis was on treating the museum with reverence so that you can better understand the price that was paid for freedom. A man in his 80s left so moved he sat down to wipe his eyes.

Our hotel, Hotel Churchill, is really lovely and centered right in town. We visited the Cathedral Notre Dame which is massive. As we strolled through it, the organ played softly.

Dinner tonight was pizza and a salad. After dinner we spent time walking around town and just enjoyed the ambiance.

A moss covered caisson
lies derelict on the beach
But memories remain

August 15: Normandy

Warm sunshine and clear blue skies welcomed us this morning to a memorable day of exploring Normandy and the Abbey of Mont Saint Michel. Just outside Bayeux lies the Batterie de Longues. Here you can see four German gun batteries which were part of what the Germans called the Atlantic Wall. Walking along the gravel path high above the sea where sailboats today bobbed up and down in the waves, the first one we came to was rusted and derelict. Ivy grows in the crevices in and around the concrete bunker. Three of the bunkers still have guns while a concrete bunker lookout on a ridge above the sea is loaded with pockmarks. Looking around, it's hard to imagine what it must have been like here in 1944. Today the area has gently rolling wheat fields, tidy stone houses with powder blue shutters, and thistles growing alongside poppies.

About 20 minutes down the road overlooking Omaha Beach is the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. The 172.5 acre cemetery is a solemn place. Here 9,387 service men and women are buried. Of these, 307 are unknown. A special commemorative garden honors them. Inside the museum are computer screens to look up family members. A large format video tells the personal stories of some of the men and why their families chose to bury them here. Another area has an interactive screen where survivors tell their story.

As you exit through a tunnel to the cemetery, the names of those buried here is read aloud. The cemetery grounds are immaculately maintained. Thousands of white marble crosses, some with the Star of David, are all lined up in perfect precision rows at any angle. Wandering between the crosses it was astonishing how many there were. Visitors of all nationalities were represented. All around us were families with children. "Lead a child down memory lane," said a poster at the museum yesterday. One particularly poignant scene I saw today was a child sitting beside his elders who were in wheelchairs listening intently as they pointed to the beaches and the sea.

Driving on down the coast road we stopped for lunch at Hotel Du Casino at their cafe overlooking the beach. We had mussels Normandy, fresh from the sea as we sat facing the beach and reflecting on what had happened here.

Continuing on the coast road we visited Pointe Du Hoc. On the morning of June 6, 1944, 255 members of the 2nd Ranger Battalion were on a mission to scale the cliffs and destroy the Germany guns. Sadly only 1/3 survived. Today at this location you can see huge craters from the Naval bombardments. Concrete bunkers and rusted barbwire are still strewn about as a reminder of this place.

The sun was still high in the sky as we headed 90 minutes westward along the coastal road to Mont Saint Michel. When you arrive you feel as if you have been there before because it's such a recognizable place. Our visit was just before 7:00 pm which was great because the day trippers were gone. We followed the winding cobblestone lanes to the top where we heard four classical music concerts in four different rooms of the abbey. The first concert was in the main church and featured a harpist who played gracefully. The acoustics were amazing. Those lucky enough to buy their tickets to the abbey after 7:00 as we did were the only ones entitled to the concerts.

Looking out the windows from high above, the tide was coming in, but the water is full of silt. There are plans to eliminate the causeway and once again return Mont. St. Michel to an island. As we headed back down the winding path, we noticed a crowd standing in front of a cafe window. Peeking inside we saw chefs vigorously beating eggs. It turns out these chefs know the secret to making a good omelet and people actually pay 30 Euro ($45) for one.

As the sun set on the horizon and the full moon rose in the sky, we ended the day with a moonlit drive through the countryside back to our hotel in Bayeux.

August 16: Bayeux to Paris

The Churchill Hotel where we are staying is very nice. A small boutique in front sells lovely regional gifts such as decorative tins filled with cookies or caramels. Inside the hotel it's like a museum with numerous photos in black and white from the allied invasion. Many show local children greeting the soldiers. Our room on the top floor has a wonderful view of the top of the cathedral which is beautifully illuminated at night.

Today we went to see the highlight of any visit to Bayeux, the Bayeaux Tapestry. The Bayeux Tapestry tells the story of the victory won by William, Duke of Normandy, over the English at Hastings on October 14, 1066. Historians are still unclear of its origin. Some feel that it was made in the south of England while others feel it was made in France. The tapestry is nearly 70 meters long in length and not only documents the story, it shows the way of life, architectural styles, and clothing during that time. Created with wool thread, the tapestry is a narrative art intended for the illiterate. Its frames show movement and concise detail. It was hung in the cathedral at Bayeux for nearly 7 centuries. Over time it suffered hardships, but still survived. The cathedral where it was housed burned down twice, it was used to cover a card of weapons during the French Revolution, and shortly thereafter, was almost dismantled to decorate a float. The final panel is missing.

Today you can see this magnificent tapestry in all its glory hung beautifully in a light and climate controlled area. Examining the tapestry up close, you can hear the story of each panel on audio headphones.

After lunch we visited the Pegasus Memorial. Hours before D Day, the British landed in gliders to seize control of a bridge that was an important link from Caen to the beaches. This was a key mission and very successful. We saw fascinating memorabilia in the museum such as mess kits, uniforms, letter home, jeeps, and tools. We were also able to walk on an actual bridge the soldiers built. The Bailey bridges, named after the designer, could be assembled in a matter of hours.

After dropping off our rental car in Caen, we took a modern train to Paris. We loved our rental car with the GPS and will miss the gentle British voice who did a splendid job guiding us all around roundabouts.

The Grand Hotel Leveque is in a charming area of Paris on Rue Cler. Our room is small, but clean, comfortable, and modern. Dinner tonight was just down the street at Cafe Tribecca. We had white fish with fresh sauteed mushrooms and zucchini smothered with fresh herbs.

A short stroll down the street and round the corner leads to an incredible view: the Eiffel Tower. As dark approaches, it is lit with blue floodlights and decorated with a circle of stars of the EU flag on the second level. At 9:00 a shout went up from the crowd and the tower lit up with thousands of twinkling lights. We rode the elevator to the second level for a breathtaking view of Paris at night. What an amazing view.
ExplorerB is offline  
Old Aug 21st, 2008 | 05:56 PM
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Thank you, ExplorerB, for a wonderful report on Normandy. We will be going there next month and your descriptions make us even more excited to see Normandy. The route from Honfleur to Arromanches sounds very pretty. Which road did you take?
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Old Aug 21st, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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jrj,

Thanks for your comments. You're most kind.

As to the drive from Honfleur to Arromanches, I must confess I don't recall the particular route as our rental car was on auto-pilot - a GPS system, to be more exact. (Upon arrival from Pisa to Beauvais, France, we were surprised to learn National had upgraded us to a Mercedes diesel wagon with all the trimmings.) The ride in question didn't hug the coast, side-stepping the resort of Deauville, opting instead for a more direct route toward Caen and then on to Bayeux and Arromanches.

It should be noted that having a car in Normandy was a real plus, providing us with the flexibility to see a good many WWII-related sites, both inland and along the beaches. The Norman countryside, in addition, is very easy on the eyes.

Thanks again for writing.

Best of luck.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2008 | 09:34 AM
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Explorer, Thanks for a great report! We are doing a very similar trip in October. We were planing on a Battlebus tour but now are leaning toward exploring on our own. Did you to the D-Day beaches on your own? If so, it seems you got quite a bit our of it.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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Loved your report - thank you for writing it!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008 | 05:12 AM
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cat,

Thanks for writing.

Prior to leaving for Normandy, I had learned of numerous good reviews concerning Battlebus and other D-Day-related tours, such as D-Day Battle Tours. But such tours are not at all inexpensive, and I felt that by doing much pre-trip research about WWII sites of particular interest and where each is located, in addition to having my own wheels, would combine for a good alternative to taking such a tour. Today I feel good about that decision as we were able to tour many fine, thought-provoking sites while also experiencing the lovely Norman countryside.

When you take your holiday in October, try to make time for the 360-degree theater and the Musee du Debarquement, both located in Arromanches. Other must-sees include the Longues-sur-Mer gun battery, the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument, and the American Cemetery, located above Omaha Beach. Finally, do tour the fine museum concerning Pegasus Bridge, captured by British paratroopers during the wee hours prior to the beach landings of June 6. Stephen Ambrose's book about this remarkable event, titled Pegasus Bridge, makes for terrific background prior to seeing this site. The bridge is located just outside Caen.

Best of luck.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008 | 05:15 AM
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ExplorerB, This sounds like a wonderful trip. I'm going to read your whole blog, too, but this part was really detailed and makes me want to plan our Normandy trip sooner!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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There are several ways of going from Honfleur to Arromanches. You can do it in 1hour 15 mins or take the day.
The motorway from the Normandy bridge to caen then the D road to Arromanches takes just over an hour. The coast road takes from 2 1/2 to a day depending on how many times you stop. From Honfleur center, next to the lieutenancy leave Honfleur keeping the estuary on your right. You'll follow the coast road to Trouville passing delightfull half timbered cottages with thatched rooves and quaint sea side towns like Cricqbeouf.
Trouville is a sold as Honfleur (Viking settlement). From Trouville you cross the Belgian bridge into Deuville which was built on the sand flats in 1860. It was built as the sea side resort for the Paris high society.
Along the coast you pass Houlgate, Cabourg then Merville where there was a gun battery attacked by British Paratroopers.
Cross the Orne river and canal by Pegasus bridge and you come to Sword beach at Ouistreham.
Through Hermanville, Lion sur mer, Luc sur mer to Asnelle, Bernier and Courseulle which made up Juno beach.
Past Gold beach and you are in Arromanches.
You can simply drive along taking in the countryside and seascapes, Or stop at Trouville, Deauville, Merville Battery, Pegasus bridge, The Grand Bunker (at Ouistreham), The Douvre Radar station, Gold beach museum.

At Arromanches there is the museum in town which tells how the artificial port was made, and on top of the cliff is the 360° cinema which has no commentary but archive film mixed with 9 camera surround film taken today in the same sites as the archive film. It's a very moving experience. (No commentary but plenty of sound)

For visits to the d day beaches you have the choice of private guides, who tailor the vsit to your inclinations, minibus tours, or audio guide which allows you to arrange your day as you wish and get the most out of your visit. Unless you have many days in Normandy I wouldn't recommend driving around the sites with no guide. You'll see things, but miss so much.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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Hi ExplorerB

Very nice report. My husband and I love Normandy. Did you eat a lot of apple tarts?
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Old Aug 24th, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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cafe,

Thanks for your response. We did indeed enjoy some apple tarts, not to mention a good many other apple-related treats. Very tasty.

We also tried our hand at a bit of calvados which we didn't find all that agreeable. However, when a local gift shop owner - a native of Honfleur - opined that we needed to spend at least 20 euros for a decent bottle of calvados, I reconsidered my opinion as the small bottle I purchased, with "Bayeux" on the label, cost a mere seven or so euros.
Have you any experience with calvados? Also, need I spend so much to sample a "good" representative of this much-admired liqueur?
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Old Aug 24th, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Explorer:

Nice report on Normandy. I think those who are contemplating trying to do justice to it without a car would benefit from reading this.


As for Calvados, I'm not a big fan, but my SO is. We just returned from a trip to Paris where he found a brand called Sylvain. I don't know if it's available in the USA or not, but boy, we both just loved that stuff! I was so used to drinking Calvados that had a real sting to it...this was soft as butter and literally wrapped itself around your tongue when you sipped it. See if you can find it. It wasn't expensive, either.

Bonne chance!
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Old Aug 25th, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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StCirq,

Thanks for the tip about calvados. I'll make a point of obtaining a bottle of Sylvain. Any chance of calling back memories of times in Normandy is well worth the effort.

Cheers.
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