Trip report: Fire and rain, not-so-sunny Sicily by guided tour
Jul 13th, 2023, 11:14 PM
#21
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The coach took us down all the way to the sea and then back inland a bit to the hilly village of Savoca - apparently because part of The Godfather film was filmed there. Not having seen it I was a bit nonplussed, but it was a pretty drive into a rural area. We went up to the church of Santa Lucia, which was very pretty, and had an interesting small display of photographs of the village’s procession in celebration of their patron saint. Then we had time for a drink and gelato (not very good).
We then returned part of the way up the mountain to visit Taormina. We visited the small Roman theatre before time for lunch. The group then reunited to tour the main Greek theatre in its stunning setting. Unfortunately it was being set up for a concert for one of the local hotels, so we didn’t see it at its best.
The rest of the afternoon was free. I walked down from the theatre into the busy main street, and walked along almost to the far gate. I enjoyed visiting the church of St Antony of Padua, which was beautiful inside; and also went into the old library. Taormina was very crowded and it was rather hot (yes, I know I was complaining about the cold and rain earlier; you just can't please some people). I had time for a cold drink before the return to the hotel, where I ate at the Caverna again but had a less good meal than the first time.
We then returned part of the way up the mountain to visit Taormina. We visited the small Roman theatre before time for lunch. The group then reunited to tour the main Greek theatre in its stunning setting. Unfortunately it was being set up for a concert for one of the local hotels, so we didn’t see it at its best.
The rest of the afternoon was free. I walked down from the theatre into the busy main street, and walked along almost to the far gate. I enjoyed visiting the church of St Antony of Padua, which was beautiful inside; and also went into the old library. Taormina was very crowded and it was rather hot (yes, I know I was complaining about the cold and rain earlier; you just can't please some people). I had time for a cold drink before the return to the hotel, where I ate at the Caverna again but had a less good meal than the first time.
Jul 13th, 2023, 11:30 PM
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We started a bit later next day so I sat on one of the terraces to enjoy the glorious view of Mount Etna before our journey on to the Aeolian Islands. We drove to the port at Milazzo where we said a temporary goodbye to our driver Gaetano – he would have his day off while we were on the islands. We had to take everything off the coach, including my coat and jumper which were still damp from two days earlier.
The ferry was a hovercraft which was pretty full. Cases were left in racks near the door, and we had boarded towards the end of the queue to ensure that ours would be readily accessible at Vulcano, the first stop. It was mandatory to sit during the journey, and our group was split across the ferry. I had to insist someone moved their bags off the seat. Alighting, I noticed some young men sitting in seats for people with reduced mobility. They didn’t look as if they had reduced anything.
On Vulcano we were immediately struck by the pungent smell of sulphur, and delighted by the occasional puffs of smoke from vents in the sides of the eponymous volcano. Our bags were collected by a baggage van from our hotel, and we had a quick snack at the harbourside café (why yes, I had some gelato) before catching the next ferry on to Lipari, the largest of the islands.
There was a short but very steep walk up to the cathedral, the ancient remains and the museums. It was rather hot, and I saw a snake whisking itself away from me among the tombs. The highlight here was probably the enchanting little Norman cloister, but the archaeological museums were excellent too, and the cathedral was beautiful inside. I was amused at the enterprising local council having built a fake Greek theatre in the 70s.
The ferry was a hovercraft which was pretty full. Cases were left in racks near the door, and we had boarded towards the end of the queue to ensure that ours would be readily accessible at Vulcano, the first stop. It was mandatory to sit during the journey, and our group was split across the ferry. I had to insist someone moved their bags off the seat. Alighting, I noticed some young men sitting in seats for people with reduced mobility. They didn’t look as if they had reduced anything.
On Vulcano we were immediately struck by the pungent smell of sulphur, and delighted by the occasional puffs of smoke from vents in the sides of the eponymous volcano. Our bags were collected by a baggage van from our hotel, and we had a quick snack at the harbourside café (why yes, I had some gelato) before catching the next ferry on to Lipari, the largest of the islands.
There was a short but very steep walk up to the cathedral, the ancient remains and the museums. It was rather hot, and I saw a snake whisking itself away from me among the tombs. The highlight here was probably the enchanting little Norman cloister, but the archaeological museums were excellent too, and the cathedral was beautiful inside. I was amused at the enterprising local council having built a fake Greek theatre in the 70s.
Jul 13th, 2023, 11:42 PM
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Back down to the harbour and a ferry back to Vulcano. We walked together to the hotel, past the pools of gently bubbling mud by the shore. These used to be open to the public but have now been blocked off, and there are proposals to develop them into an expensive spa.
Our hotel was Les Sables Noirs, and our luggage had already been taken to our rooms. The rooms are scattered in separate little bungalows around the site, and on first inspection I was absolutely thrilled with my room. After 10 days of tiny little rooms and no outside space, here I was presented with a cross between a suite and a self catering apartment. It was absolutely enormous, with a small kitchenette with big fridge and even a freezer; cooking facilities; a table and chairs; a sofa; a really big bed; another small sitting area; a big shower room; a big private terrace (you could seat at least 8 people I should think); and a small non-private sitting area outside the front door with table and chairs.
On closer inspection, the sofa was stained, and the shower, although clean, had an awkwardly placed shower head which made it difficult to use. The private terrace at the back was not practical to use because of the sulphur smell, and it looked on to the back of some other, less well kept, apartments; but the front area was lovely and I did make use of this. Everything apart from the sofa was perfectly clean. However, the wifi was really poor; it may have been a bandwidth issue as I had the best luck getting a connection for more than a few minutes at a time late at night or very early in the morning.
The hotel has no restaurant, and a group dinner had been arranged for us at a restaurant a short walk away. It was really delicious and our group was blending really well by now, so we had a lovely evening.
Our hotel was Les Sables Noirs, and our luggage had already been taken to our rooms. The rooms are scattered in separate little bungalows around the site, and on first inspection I was absolutely thrilled with my room. After 10 days of tiny little rooms and no outside space, here I was presented with a cross between a suite and a self catering apartment. It was absolutely enormous, with a small kitchenette with big fridge and even a freezer; cooking facilities; a table and chairs; a sofa; a really big bed; another small sitting area; a big shower room; a big private terrace (you could seat at least 8 people I should think); and a small non-private sitting area outside the front door with table and chairs.
On closer inspection, the sofa was stained, and the shower, although clean, had an awkwardly placed shower head which made it difficult to use. The private terrace at the back was not practical to use because of the sulphur smell, and it looked on to the back of some other, less well kept, apartments; but the front area was lovely and I did make use of this. Everything apart from the sofa was perfectly clean. However, the wifi was really poor; it may have been a bandwidth issue as I had the best luck getting a connection for more than a few minutes at a time late at night or very early in the morning.
The hotel has no restaurant, and a group dinner had been arranged for us at a restaurant a short walk away. It was really delicious and our group was blending really well by now, so we had a lovely evening.
Jul 14th, 2023, 12:21 AM
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The morning was free, so as I had prebooked an evening cruise to Stromboli, and would have no other opportunity to do so, I had a morning swim as soon at the pool opened at 9. It was a bit small; swimming that early meant I was the only person in it, and that was lovely, but it would be too crowded with multiple swimmers. My knee was troubling me again, so I limited my time in the pool. After changing I spent the rest of the morning wandering around Vulcano and grabbing a snack lunch (and a gelato of course) before catching the boat for the Stromboli excursion which started at 1.30. This was an optional extra; one couple and I had chosen to prebook, and two more couples joined us on the day, while the other tour group members (thankfully including the difficult ones) stayed at the hotel for a free day. We were accompanied by our tour leader as well, which was helpful.
The boat first took us to Lipari, where more people joined us, and then sailed to the pretty island of Panarea where we had an hour or so on shore. Panarea is very pretty with Greek-style white houses and clear waters. Giancarlo took us on a little walk uphill to a pretty church; a small bird had ventured inside and was flying around the ceiling. There was a lovely view from up here. Then back down to grab another gelato and buy some biscuits in a little supermarket to take back for work colleagues.
The boat then collected us and we sailed on past some other islands and rocks to Stromboli where we were deposited for a few hours. Giancarlo led us on another walk to see the house of Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman, and then to a pleasant restaurant with super sea views (not included in the price but very reasonable).
Then it was back to the boat for the sunset cruise to see Stromboli explode, or at least send out little spurts of flaming lava. We got a great view of the lighthouse on an exposed rock and then sailed around to the far side of Stromboli and stopped, rocking gently in the water. It seemed like a really, really long wait for the first bright red spurt of fire, and half the passengers cheered when it finally came. We probably watched for about an hour, and it was a brilliant experience. Then a long cold, dark journey back to Lipari, even though the boat was travelling much faster this time. Luckily I had my kindle to read. When space opened up on the warmer inside of the boat at Lipari I went inside for the last part of the journey.
It was a little after 11 pm by the time we got back to Vulcano, and I still had to pack ready for an early start next day. My swimming costume was of course wet again and my jumper was *still* damp from Scicli’s rain several days earlier.
The boat first took us to Lipari, where more people joined us, and then sailed to the pretty island of Panarea where we had an hour or so on shore. Panarea is very pretty with Greek-style white houses and clear waters. Giancarlo took us on a little walk uphill to a pretty church; a small bird had ventured inside and was flying around the ceiling. There was a lovely view from up here. Then back down to grab another gelato and buy some biscuits in a little supermarket to take back for work colleagues.
The boat then collected us and we sailed on past some other islands and rocks to Stromboli where we were deposited for a few hours. Giancarlo led us on another walk to see the house of Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman, and then to a pleasant restaurant with super sea views (not included in the price but very reasonable).
Then it was back to the boat for the sunset cruise to see Stromboli explode, or at least send out little spurts of flaming lava. We got a great view of the lighthouse on an exposed rock and then sailed around to the far side of Stromboli and stopped, rocking gently in the water. It seemed like a really, really long wait for the first bright red spurt of fire, and half the passengers cheered when it finally came. We probably watched for about an hour, and it was a brilliant experience. Then a long cold, dark journey back to Lipari, even though the boat was travelling much faster this time. Luckily I had my kindle to read. When space opened up on the warmer inside of the boat at Lipari I went inside for the last part of the journey.
It was a little after 11 pm by the time we got back to Vulcano, and I still had to pack ready for an early start next day. My swimming costume was of course wet again and my jumper was *still* damp from Scicli’s rain several days earlier.
Jul 14th, 2023, 01:12 AM
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After the ferry back to Milazzo we met up again with Gaetano and the coach. We drove to Cefalu, a pretty little seaside town, where we stopped for lunch and some free time. This was not as well organised as it could have been: not long enough for a start, and no one mentioned that the cathedral was closed over lunch, so having lunch first meant I ended up not being able to go in, which was disappointing.
I did visit a nice little museum, a palazzo which housed the personal collection of art and antiquities of a deceased Sicilian aristocrat. The highlight was a rather fine Renaissance portrait of a young man with a superior smile.
Then we drove to Palermo back to the Plaza Opera where we had started out, for two final nights. I was rather disappointed to get a worse room this time, very small with a terrible view of a wall. It was fairly early, so I just had a sandwich for dinner and then holed up in my room to watch the Rabat Diamond League on RAI television.
I did visit a nice little museum, a palazzo which housed the personal collection of art and antiquities of a deceased Sicilian aristocrat. The highlight was a rather fine Renaissance portrait of a young man with a superior smile.
Then we drove to Palermo back to the Plaza Opera where we had started out, for two final nights. I was rather disappointed to get a worse room this time, very small with a terrible view of a wall. It was fairly early, so I just had a sandwich for dinner and then holed up in my room to watch the Rabat Diamond League on RAI television.
Jul 14th, 2023, 01:18 AM
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The final day was also poorly organised, with nothing to do until 2pm. This would have been fine if (a) it wasn’t a Monday, so none of the museums I would have chosen to visit were open; and (b) if the Palermo traffic was not so appalling. I literally could not find a safe route to get to the seafront or the old town. I ended up spending a bit of time wandering around nearby, and was disappointed again to find the nice little nearby gelateria was shut on Mondays too, and some time reading in the peaceful hotel lounge. It would have been better if the coach had dropped us in the old town or by the harbour for the morning.
In the afternoon we did have some visits organised, and these were worthwhile. First we went to the Villa Whittaker/Palazzo Malfitano. This was the home of the 19th century British-Sicilian winemaker from Marsala who excavated Mozia, and his Sicilian wife. It was rather like an English stately home, and beautifully well kept, with some beautiful furnishings. I enjoyed this.
Then it was into the old town for a guided tour of the opera house, very grand and opulent. Finally, we visited one of the palazzi of the city, the Palazzo Alliata die Villafranca. It was incredibly ornate – a stunning final visit.
Back at the hotel the traffic seemed to have eased off a bit so I ventured across the road to a restaurant where I enjoyed some tasty gnocchi. Sadly, the traffic was not as accommodating on my way back, and a bloody motorbike completely ignored the pedestrian crossing lights to almost run me over. Quivering in fright, I had to wait another full cycle of lights before I dared cross the road back.
The transfer back to the airport was trouble free, as was the flight home.
In the afternoon we did have some visits organised, and these were worthwhile. First we went to the Villa Whittaker/Palazzo Malfitano. This was the home of the 19th century British-Sicilian winemaker from Marsala who excavated Mozia, and his Sicilian wife. It was rather like an English stately home, and beautifully well kept, with some beautiful furnishings. I enjoyed this.
Then it was into the old town for a guided tour of the opera house, very grand and opulent. Finally, we visited one of the palazzi of the city, the Palazzo Alliata die Villafranca. It was incredibly ornate – a stunning final visit.
Back at the hotel the traffic seemed to have eased off a bit so I ventured across the road to a restaurant where I enjoyed some tasty gnocchi. Sadly, the traffic was not as accommodating on my way back, and a bloody motorbike completely ignored the pedestrian crossing lights to almost run me over. Quivering in fright, I had to wait another full cycle of lights before I dared cross the road back.
The transfer back to the airport was trouble free, as was the flight home.
Jul 14th, 2023, 01:22 AM
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My final thoughts on the tour: definite plusses and minuses.
On the positive side: it was mostly well planned to allow for the maximum sightseeing, and included all the highlights I wanted. Giancarlo, our guide, was absolutely brilliant, both for the depth of his knowledge about Sicily, his kind attitude, and efficient running of the tour. I'd taken a couple of guidebooks but almost never needed to refer to them. Gaetano was a very reliable and safe driver. I appreciated all the transportation being organised. The hotels were all adequate and clean if not brilliant. Some surprises: I would not have picked the Aeolian islands beforehand, but Stromboli was unforgettable.
Negatives: no room for flexibility for poor weather; not always enough time in places; and one or two visits I would have been happy to omit; plus the dead time on the last morning. I usually stay in nicer hotels, and would have liked more to have pools. All the short stays meant a lot of packing and unpacking, and wet things having to be carried separately which was awkward.
Was it worth the money? Yes, because I got to see some amazing places, and part of what you’re paying for is the tour guide and his expertise.
Would I do a tour again? *Maybe*, but not immediately.
On the positive side: it was mostly well planned to allow for the maximum sightseeing, and included all the highlights I wanted. Giancarlo, our guide, was absolutely brilliant, both for the depth of his knowledge about Sicily, his kind attitude, and efficient running of the tour. I'd taken a couple of guidebooks but almost never needed to refer to them. Gaetano was a very reliable and safe driver. I appreciated all the transportation being organised. The hotels were all adequate and clean if not brilliant. Some surprises: I would not have picked the Aeolian islands beforehand, but Stromboli was unforgettable.
Negatives: no room for flexibility for poor weather; not always enough time in places; and one or two visits I would have been happy to omit; plus the dead time on the last morning. I usually stay in nicer hotels, and would have liked more to have pools. All the short stays meant a lot of packing and unpacking, and wet things having to be carried separately which was awkward.
Was it worth the money? Yes, because I got to see some amazing places, and part of what you’re paying for is the tour guide and his expertise.
Would I do a tour again? *Maybe*, but not immediately.
Jul 14th, 2023, 01:23 AM
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Jul 14th, 2023, 04:54 AM
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Have been following your TR, firstly because it’s Sicily and secondly for your comments on the guided tour. We spent 13 days in Sicily last April, using only trains and buses as we didn’t want to drive. Luckily for us we had great weather, except for the first day in Palermo when it rained.
My sister and I have always wanted to take a guided tour, I don’t like to drive and she doesn’t want to be the only driver when it’s just the two of us. But we’re a little wary of these tours, I haven’t heard very good reports of them. Which is why I particularly appreciate your report with the pros and cons, thanks for taking the time to write!
My sister and I have always wanted to take a guided tour, I don’t like to drive and she doesn’t want to be the only driver when it’s just the two of us. But we’re a little wary of these tours, I haven’t heard very good reports of them. Which is why I particularly appreciate your report with the pros and cons, thanks for taking the time to write!
Jul 14th, 2023, 05:24 AM
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Adding my thanks for your detailed TR. I have never been on a multi day guided tour so it’s helpful to get a first hand, thorough, and balanced account. I am sorry about the terrible weather you encountered.
Jul 15th, 2023, 03:11 AM
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I have been following along and have enjoyed your details about Sicily and also your firsthand experience with a guided tour. I appreciate your honesty. You are not sugarcoating anything. I really don’t.t think a group tour is for us so I hope we stay healthy and mobile for a long time!
Jul 15th, 2023, 06:11 AM
#33
Great TR nonconformist - not just for your honesty which is much appreciated, but also taking me back with you to Sicily which was the place that my DH and I last went before we discovered that he was ill. So it brings back wonderful memories, albeit some didn't seem so great at the time, like the drive up to the Villa Sonia which we did in our hire car, which we deposited in the hotel car park upon arrival and never moved until it was time to leave 3 days later. And I still have nightmares about trying to park the car in Ragusa!
Jul 16th, 2023, 10:07 AM
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Thank you for your detailed TR. I have enjoyed putting my own trips together; why I joined the Fodors forums.Though I did them before, I am considering a guided coach tour for the first time in 20 years, and have been looking at Sicily and the Amalfi coast.
Appreciate your candor too. Sorry about the weather. Glad you're home safe and sound and hopefully, dry.
Two of my recent vacation evening got scuppered by rain. I just bought a pair of Vessi shoes which are supposed to be 100% waterproof. I am about to put them on and run out to the mailbox, test them out.
Was airfare included or separate? Did you sign up for a roommate match? Was there a single supplement? Thanks.
Appreciate your candor too. Sorry about the weather. Glad you're home safe and sound and hopefully, dry.
Two of my recent vacation evening got scuppered by rain. I just bought a pair of Vessi shoes which are supposed to be 100% waterproof. I am about to put them on and run out to the mailbox, test them out.
Was airfare included or separate? Did you sign up for a roommate match? Was there a single supplement? Thanks.
Jul 16th, 2023, 02:46 PM
#35
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Yes, air fare was included from the UK (it's a UK company), but you could do it tour only as well.
My tour didn't offer a roommate match option but I wouldn't have wanted to anyway - I need my personal space
Yes, a single room cost more, but not double.
My tour didn't offer a roommate match option but I wouldn't have wanted to anyway - I need my personal space
Yes, a single room cost more, but not double.
Jul 21st, 2023, 08:40 AM
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Thank you for the info. I go back and forth on a roommate. It has worked well each time for me. I talked to the tour company yesterday. That clause about being able to increase the trip proce if costs rise concerns me, though the agent says it is only for extreme increases. Naturally they would determine that. Still the idea of a tour was somehow appealing to me, since I have lately been suffering from inertia. Not to mention Sicily's winding roads. Thank you for the lovely and frank trip report. Happy Travels!
Jul 30th, 2023, 09:16 PM
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Thank you for taking the time to write this amazing trip report. I found it very interesting. I would love to go to Sicily one day, I think I might go there next year with my family or friends. I have heard many great things about Sicily. All of my friends who have been there, recommended visiting Sicily. I hope I'll get to go there next year and see everything in person, because I've heard the views are amazing. I'm really looking forward to visiting it.
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