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Trip report Engadine/St. Moritz area in winter 2003

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Trip report Engadine/St. Moritz area in winter 2003

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Old Mar 27th, 2003, 02:34 PM
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Trip report Engadine/St. Moritz area in winter 2003

Hi folks,<BR><BR>well, I know that skiing is not a big subject on this forum, so I won’t bore you with detailed descriptions of the skiing areas. But since I did not only skiing during this week I decided to post a short trip report. I thought some of you might be interested in information about the Engadine/St. Moritz region in winter as well. I took a lot of photos and posted some of them at ofoto. Here is the URL: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=82763775105.67441858205&amp;n=1720992069<B R><BR>As usual I drove via Munich – Garmisch – Fernpass – Landeck to St. Moritz. This route is very scenic and toll free. Another advantage is that you can do a side trip (1 hour) to tax-free Samnaun, where e.g. gas is much cheaper than elsewhere in Germany/Austria/Switzerland. The road to Samnaun is narrow, windy and somewhat adventurous, though.<BR><BR>Again I stayed in an apartment in Silvaplana, about 5 km away from St. Moritz. This little village is mostly frequented by younger folks who are more interested in skiing and other sports than in the glitzy glamour world of St. Moritz. I like Silvaplana for its central position and excellent connections by public transportation.<BR><BR>The snow conditions were perfect and the weather sunny all week through.<BR><BR>Sunday: I decided to do some cross-country skiing, because I wanted to avoid the usual weekend crowds on the slopes. I took the free local bus to Surlej on the opposite side of the valley where the cross-country skiing tracks (and the cable car to Piz Corvatsch) start. I had lunch at Lake Staz, half way between St. Moritz and Pontresina. Polenta con funghi was excellent. The place was somewhat crowded by Italian mamas with their bambini. Probably too close to St. Moritz. From Pontresina to St. Moritz I enjoyed a bus ride before I took an alternative cross-country track back to Silvaplana. Enough for the first day!<BR><BR>Monday: I purchased a ski pass for 3 consecutive days (166 Sfr. incl. public transportation). Today I skied the Corviglia area above St. Moritz, where a couple of weeks ago the Ski World Championships had taken place. An extensive area with lots of comfortable chair lifts, a large variety of runs and – excellent mountain restaurants/huts. Reto Mathis e.g. offers excellent food at the top station of the Corviglia funicular (2488 m): from a self-service restaurant up to the gourmet restaurant “La Marmite”. I chose the mid-price “Brasserie” and had delicious pasta con frutti di mare (plat du jour, 18,50 Sfr.) and a glass of a very good Chardonnay. After skiing I decided to join the folks at Caf&eacute; Hanselmann in St. Moritz Dorf for some “people watching” and, of course, a piece of their delicious cake and a cappuccino.<BR><BR>Tuesday: I decided to ski Diavolezza/Lagalb near the Bernina Pass, quite a distance away from Silvaplana. But the scenic bus/train ride alone is worth the effort. I skied Piz Lagalb (challenging!) first and changed to Diavolezza at noon. Your jaw drops down leaving the top station of the cable car and watching the scenery! The views of the peaks and lgaciers are breathtaking! Anyway, I had a nice meal (Risotto and something) and skied another two hours. The highlight of the day was the final run to Hotel Morteratsch. This run is a ski route, not groomed but signposted, far away from lifts and pistes. It leads down to Pers glacier, ascents to Isla Persa rock (where you can have a drink at a snow bar), continues steeply down to Morteratsch glacier and further relatively flat to the train stop and Hotel Morteratsch. An unforgettable experience.<BR><BR>End of Part I
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Old Mar 27th, 2003, 02:35 PM
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Part II:<BR><BR>Wednesday: I took the free local bus to Surlej where the cable car to Piz Corvatsch starts. Piz Corvatsch offers IMO the best skiing in the Engadine (and not only there!). I also did a side trip to the Furtschellas skiing area above Sils. I had an excellent (beef) steak with potatoes and artichokes for lunch (restaurant Murtel, 16,50 Sfr.). I returned late to my apartment because joined the folks at the apres-ski bar at Alp Surlej.<BR><BR>Thursday: A day for recreation. I walked across the frozen lake to Sils. From there I joined some other people and took a horse-drawn carriage to the Fex Valley. What a great ride! I had a delicious meal (chestnut pasta with some chestnuts, bacon and onions) on the terrace of Hotel Fex watching the magnificent scenery. Their �house wine� was outstanding. A red wine from a monastery in Sicily. Absolutely fantastic. Well, I walked back to Sils, strolled through the village and took the bus back to Silvaplana.<BR><BR>Friday: Again I decided to make a cross-country skiing tour. I started in Surlej and took the tracks across the frozen Lake Silvaplana to Sils. I continued to Maloja via the frozen Lake Sils. It was funny to have a break and relax in the sun while sitting on the little island inmidst the lake which I saw and could not get to in summer. In Maloja I had excellent Capuns (local food) at the terrace of Hotel Schweizerhaus. I skied back to Sils where I had a chocolate-nut cake and some Darjeeling tea. Then I went to the public library (internet access, 1 minute costs 0,10 Sfr.). They have thousands of books in several languages. A truly contemplative place. The library is located in an old Engadine house with large windows offering views of the lake and the mountains. However, they close at 6 p.m. and I had to hurry to get back to Silvaplana. When I reached Surlej it was dark and cold (7 p.m.). Anyway, after dinner at the apartment I decided to go night-skiing at Piz Corvatsch instead of watching the depressing news shows on TV. Night skiing is offered every Friday from 19:30 to 02:00. The ticket is 15 Sfr. only and includes free entrance for the parties (music) at Murtel and Alp Surlej. I enjoyed it very much.<BR><BR>Saturday: Time to say goodbye. I purchased some local food (cheese, salsiz, wine etc.) before leaving. Luckily I am looking forward to be back in the Engadine in June for the GTG in Zuoz.<BR><BR>
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Old Mar 28th, 2003, 03:59 AM
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Ingo!<BR><BR>Thanks for this great report! <BR><BR>American tv was showing a ski movie filmed in Wengen, Kitzbuehel, etc yesterday, so I got to have a great virtual snow day thanks to you &amp; tv.<BR><BR>I'm tempted to try to recreate some of your walks &amp; snacks for June . . . ??<BR><BR>Anyway, thanks loads. I'll see your photos in a few minutes.<BR><BR>s
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Old Mar 28th, 2003, 04:21 AM
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Ingo, <BR>Seems you had a great time!<BR><BR>Will take a look at the pictures, when more time.<BR>Anyway, vielen Dank, for your trip report. <BR>Sounds great and you didn't leave out some must-dos like the Corviglia, the Hanselmann and have some Capuns! ;o)<BR>Looking forward to our GTG!<BR><BR>Night skiing on the Corvatsch sounds great. I happened to ski up there on our National Holiday, August 1st, a couple of years ago!<BR><BR>Enjoy your weekend all!
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Old Mar 28th, 2003, 03:22 PM
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Fantastic photos, Ingo! It took me awhile to figure out what was so different. The treeline must be much lower in the Engadine than the Rockies.<BR><BR>Can't wait to see the area in person.
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Old Mar 29th, 2003, 12:29 AM
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Thanks for your kind comments.<BR><BR>Ursula, unfortunately no summer skiing at Piz Corvatsch anymore!<BR><BR>Grasshopper: Yes, the treeline is much lower than in the Rockies (2100 - 2300 m), although it is one of the highest in the Alps.<BR><BR>I.
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Old Mar 29th, 2003, 06:18 AM
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Wonderful pictures, Ingo. That chestnut pasta was a killer! J.
 
Old Mar 29th, 2003, 06:51 AM
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jmw,<BR>I hope you're not dead now! ;o)<BR>You're right, the pasta looks absolutely yummy!<BR>Ingo, was that your plate, and if so, how does it taste?<BR>And all your pictures are absolutely stunning. Thanks.
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Old Mar 29th, 2003, 09:24 AM
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Again, many thanks for your very kind notes.<BR><BR>I did not think the picture with the pasta would make such a career! Yes, it was my plate and it was excellent. I had it at Hotel Fex (see my trip report, Thursday). Chestnut pasta with CANDIED chestnuts, bacon and onions, some herbs and parmigiano. But the killer was the red wine (Do you like to see a picture of the glass with this very dark red wine? I think it is a must do for our GTG to go to the Fex Valley on Sunday and check it out, eh?<BR><BR>
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Old Mar 29th, 2003, 12:05 PM
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Ingo thanks for sharing! I think we don't have enough skiing reports in this forums. The Hotel Fex looks cute and the chestnut pasta looked even better. I will keep in mind your tip about Piz Corvatsch, if I ever make it to Engadine.
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