We just got back from our trip, and want to thank those of you who helped us with our last-minute planning! I hope this report isn't too long, but it covers 3 weeks! We threw the trip together in 10 days, and it was fantastic. We started our trip by attending a fairytale wedding in the Bavarian Alps. We joked that no one would believe the photos, because they looked like we went to a mall photo studio and chose the "mountain background". It was absolutely spectacular---fields of wildflowers with Neuschwanstein castle and snow-caps mountains in the background. The celebrations lasted all weekend, starting with a Bavarian dinner & dancing in Schangau on Friday night, the wedding in a church in Fussen on Saturday, followed by an outdoor afternoon reception at a castle, then an evening dinner/dance inside the castle. The festivities went on till 3 a.m.! From there we took the train to Venice, where we spent 4 nights. We had been there before, and couldn't wait to return. It was wonderful. We stayed at the Cavaletto e Doge, which was steps away from St Mark's Square. Our room overlooked the gondola "parking lot", and we enjoyed watching the gondoliers every morning and evening. The first night we had a drink at the Florian after dinner, and listened to the beautiful music while we sat under the stars. Magical! We walked all over Venice, and I was particularly looking for glass beads and glass jewelry. My favorite shop was called (I hope) Stella Bijou. The beads were beautiful, and they also have quite a bit of jewelry. They will also make up any jewelry you want if you pick out the beads. I had a beautiful necklace and earrings made up while we had dinner at the nearby La Madonna restaurant. We enjoyed that restaurant very much, and went back twice. Everyone knocks the restaurants along the Grand Canal by the Rialto bridge, but we had a very nice experience at one called Cafe Saraceno. One evening we just wanted a bottle of wine while watching "rush hour" on the canal, and they didn't rush us or pressure us at all. We ended up having dinner there one night, just because we loved watching the boats and the people, and it was quite good. We went to the Doge's Palace, where we made reservations for the next day's tour. We did the Secret Itinerary, which we highly recommend. It was very interesting. Just don't go if you are claustrophobic! We also went to the Accadamia and to the Peggy Guggenheim Museums. I don't think anyone should miss the PG, even if they don't like modern art. It is such a beautiful place, and we enjoyed the garden and the terrace, views, etc. I thought the exhibits were wonderful. We were so happy that we had enjoyed the music at the Florian that first night, because we had thundershowers the other nights. We believe in Carpe Diem, and don't usually put things off just for this kind of reason. We would have been so disappointed if we had planned that for a different night, and then it had rained. I had forgotten how late it stays light in Italy at this time of year---almost 10 pm. So you can really enjoy the sights late into the evening, just walking around or sitting with a glass of wine. From Venice we took the train to Florence, where we picked up a car and headed straight for Southern Tuscany. Bob, I hope you read this, because I want to thank you for your recommendation of a hotel there. We stayed at the Palazzo del Capitano in San Quirico d'Orcia, and loved it. It was exactly what we wanted-----small village within an hour from Siena. My husband wanted to be able to come back from a day of sightseeing and be able to walk to restaurants in town. The town is really small, not busy or noisy, and very local-color. The day we got there, all the old ladies in town were cooking, cooking, cooking---I could watch them from our window, because they had set up a kitchen outside, across from us. We asked what was going on, and they were having a medieval festival that weekend. All the kids were dressed in medieval costumes, they had a little parade, then the town dinner the ladies had cooked. We asked if we could join them, and they said "Of course!" They had long tables set up under a tent, and the young men were singing and playing drinking games. It was really fun, and the food was great. During the days we explored the area. My husband loves exploring the backroads, so Roberto (the hotel owner) drew us up 2 days of "programs" to follow. We were on dirt roads much of the time, but with gorgeous views and interesting sights. It was a beautiful time to be there---everything so green, and fields of red poppies. I paint, so took lots of pictures to use for reference for future paintings. We had a great lunch one day in Montechiello. We never had a bad meal in Tuscany or a bad wine. Most of the time we were drinking "vino della casa", and they were great. We had dinners at the restaurant owned by the hotel and another one in town. Both were excellent, and we had great meals. Our room was beautiful, very large with a canopied bed and big bathroom. We loved it, and the staff is wonderful---so helpful, warm and friendly. We really felt that we were guests in someone's home, and they wanted us to have a wonderful time. My husband is on a medication where he has to have his blood drawn and checked once a week. They couldn't have been more helpful, finding us a place to do it in Montalcino. Speaking of Montalcino, we were walking around there when we started seeing a LOT of red Ferrari's. Turns out there was a Ferrari Club of Montalcino outing that day, and there were about 100 red Ferrari's pouring into that little town! It was amazing. Of course, we tasted wines there and bought some Brunellos. From Tuscany we drove to the Cinque Terre, which was absolutely breathtaking. The drive was pretty scary, though. I finally quit shaking about an hour after we got to the hotel! We stayed at the Porto Roca. They usually have a 3-night minimum, but let us reserve for 2 nights. We had a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean and a king-sized bed. We had dinners and breakfasts on the beautiful terrace, and loved the amazing views. The staff was very friendly. We enjoyed the beach, which is at the bottom of a long path. The hotel provides chairs and umbrellas there. We took a boat to all the villages and walked the Via d'Amore, which was beautiful and easy. We had lunch at a wonderful restaurant in town called Lamparo. They serve fish stew, spaghetti with seafood, and risotto with seafood in huge earthenware pots which they bring to the table boiling hot. Really, really good! From Monterosso we drove to Genoa where I have an Italian cousin. We had a nice visit with them, then flew home from Milan. The night before we left, we had such a nice experience. The hotel sent us to a little restaurant called La Cugina de Siena. The owner/chef personally explained every item on the menu to us, brought us samples of things to taste, made special dishes to incorporate ingredients we liked, and suggested special wines. He was so cute----I have seen anyone so passionate about his work and his food. He kept saying that he wanted our final meal in Italy to be a great experience, and kept coming out to see how we liked everything. I was laughing, and said that I felt like we should just go into the kitchen with him. He said that he would love that, but it just gets too hot in there! When we were too stuffed for dessert, he brought us a plate of biscotti and chocolate sauce, just for "a little something". Yes, it was the perfect ending to a perfect 3 weeks! The Italians were all so warm and friendly, the scenery exquisite, and food and wine outstanding. I hope this hasn't bored you all, but I hope there is something helpful to you. If I can give any specifics that would further help you plan your trips, please just ask. Thanks again, Bob, for leading us to Palazzo del Capitano.

Thanks for the report, chicgeek. It sounds like you had a lovely time.

What a great trip--I am so pleased it all worked for you. However, please next time type in paragraphs so old eyes like mine can focus. I like starting and ending an Italy itinerary in Munich for rental car rates--and seeing Bavaria and the Dolomites going and coming.

"We had a great lunch one day in Montechiello."

Since it is never to early to plan my September 2005 trip, could you elaborate on the lunch you had in Montechiello. Thanks, and glad you had a great trip.

Bob, I'm sorry for the run-on paragraphs! I'm new to this, and was concerned about taking up too much space. MaiTaiTom, the lunch was at a small restaurant called La Porta. We ate outside, overlooking the Tuscan countryside. I don't remember what we ate, except a pasta with truffles that was out of this world.

Chicgeek,
I really enjoyed your trip report and have filed it for our next trip. Thanks - it always helps to hear from those who have personally experienced the areas we plan to visit.
Carol

Thanks for the report, chicgeek. I may check out La Porta on our trip as well -- sounds lovely.

Thanks for the report chicgreek, makes me want to go! Do you have any of your photos somewhere we can see them?

thanks for your great report, chicgeek. We just returned from Rome but I'm already planning our next trip to Tuscany and your information will be most helful. We will be traveling with friends and the big question is whether to rent a villa or farmhouse and do day trips or stay in multiple places.
So glad you had such a memorable trip

I am curious about you picking up the rental car in Florence. We are also going from Venice to southern Tuscany, but I rented the car in Venice. I was worried about finding the car rental place in Florence and the logistics of navigating out of the city. But we also liked the idea of the train ride, without the hassle of the car. Did you find it easy enough to pick up car there, and was it difficult to get out of Florence? What time of day did you do this?